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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 15:12:50 -0800 (PST), a particular chimpanzee,
Richard randomly hit the keyboard and produced: Hi, I'm about to embark on boarding out my loft for light storage, and felt that it would be a good time to also remedy the lack of fire breaks in my mid terrace house. I cant seem to find any advice about firebreak specifications or building regs so would be grateful if I could be shown in the correct direction. I cannot decide whether to build up the tops of the dividing walls (visible) with block and mortar (if so is there a specific specification? I was thinking fixing firfix to the dividing chimneys for e.g.) or with stud and plasterboard (again what is the spec). I feel the latter would be easier but the former may be more sturdy/soundproof. Any advice on which to choose and how to go about it would be gratefully received. How do you fix to the roof if the rafters dont line with the wall - can you use noggins in wood? Many Thanks, Richard. Are you doing this in conjunction with your neighbours? If not it's at least best to warn them what you're doing. Strange knocking noises directly above their bedroom ceilings may get you complaints via Environmental Health and Building Control. It's also going to be a lot easier and more effective if you can get to both sides of your new party wall. So long as you're not making the situation any worse in terms of structure or fire safety than before, the work is not subject to Building Regulations. The Party Wall Act may have a bearing on what you're doing, but this is a civil matter between you and your neighbour(s). Masonry is obviously easier to do from one side, is more robust, and will resist sound transmission better. Lay your blocks flat rather than trying to lay two leaves, make sure that they are well mortared to avoid air paths, and fill the space between the wall and the felt/covering in Rockwool. If you want a party wall in studwork that will form an effective sound barrier, it needs to be done as two separate stud walls, each independent of the other, lined with 2 layers of 12mm plasterboard on each side. A single stud could be used, but it wouldn't form any serious impediment to noise. It would also not help you very much if there was a fire in your neighbours unless you could plasterboard their side of the stud wall (if they have a fire, the timber on their side is unprotected and would burn through, collapsing the stud wall). As you say, you can noggin between the rafters, but fill the space over the top with Rockwool. If it's just life safety you're worried about, a third option could be a 'cavity barrier' such as Rockwool Fire Blanket (http://www.rockwool.co.uk/sw55784.asp). -- Hugo Nebula "If no-one on the internet wants a piece of this, just how far from the pack have you strayed?" |
#2
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Many thanks for your helpful reply - heres the answers inline..
Are you doing this in conjunction with your neighbours? Yes Masonry is obviously easier to do from one side, is more robust, and will resist sound transmission better. *Lay your blocks flat rather than trying to lay two leaves, make sure that they are well mortared to avoid air paths, and fill the space between the wall and the felt/covering in Rockwool. The party wall is likely 4in single skin brick (possibly 9in although unlikely), so I'd be building ontop of this if that changes opinion. I would therefore imagine blocking on edge as per usual, but with single skin? Would you fix to the chimneys with wall ties to increase strength? Is there a more effective way to seal to the slopes of the roof than rockwool - would you bother cutting angled blocks to fit the spaces, or is this overkill? If you want a party wall in studwork that will form an effective sound barrier, it needs to be done as two separate stud walls, each independent of the other, lined with 2 layers of 12mm plasterboard on each side. *A single stud could be used, but it wouldn't form any serious impediment to noise. *It would also not help you very much if there was a fire in your neighbours unless you could plasterboard their side of the stud wall (if they have a fire, the timber on their side is unprotected and would burn through, collapsing the stud wall). As you say, you can noggin between the rafters, but fill the space over the top with Rockwool. As someone else pointed out, I dont really need soundproofing come to think of it - just the physical barrier for security and the fireproofing, so I guess fireproof plasterboard on both sides of a single skin stud would be effective. Would you bother installing anything into the stud cavity?? What would your personal choice be in this situation - stud or block? Which spec blocks would you use btw. Are there any alternatives to heavy chipboard panels for the floor - stronger but lighter would be the ideal (whilst still reasonably priced of course!) Many thanks for all your help.. |
#3
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Richard wrote:
As someone else pointed out, I dont really need soundproofing come to think of it - just the physical barrier for security and the fireproofing, so I guess fireproof plasterboard on both sides of a single skin stud would be effective. I wouldn't... you say security is a concern: if you consider that there's a risk of a scrote breaking into your neighbour's house and climbing up into his roofspace in order to enter your house, do you think a couple of sheets of plasterboard will impede his progress for more than a few seconds?! Also, I don't know how big your loft hatch is but that might well be an issue when it comes to taking sheets of plasterboard up there; at least you're going to be restricted to using small bits only. David |
#4
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![]() "Lobster" wrote in message ... Richard wrote: As someone else pointed out, I dont really need soundproofing come to think of it - just the physical barrier for security and the fireproofing, so I guess fireproof plasterboard on both sides of a single skin stud would be effective. I wouldn't... you say security is a concern: if you consider that there's a risk of a scrote breaking into your neighbour's house and climbing up into his roofspace in order to enter your house, do you think a couple of sheets of plasterboard will impede his progress for more than a few seconds?! Yes. Also, I don't know how big your loft hatch is but that might well be an issue when it comes to taking sheets of plasterboard up there; at least you're going to be restricted to using small bits only. Good point. Probaly best to use blocks if they can be eaily taken up. |
#5
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Doctor Drivel wrote:
"Lobster" wrote in message ... Richard wrote: As someone else pointed out, I dont really need soundproofing come to think of it - just the physical barrier for security and the fireproofing, so I guess fireproof plasterboard on both sides of a single skin stud would be effective. I wouldn't... you say security is a concern: if you consider that there's a risk of a scrote breaking into your neighbour's house and climbing up into his roofspace in order to enter your house, do you think a couple of sheets of plasterboard will impede his progress for more than a few seconds?! Yes. I remember enlisting the help of one of my sons with a renovation project a few years ago, and set him on to demolishing a stud partition. He was able to climb through it in a matter of minutes - mind you, he was only 9 at the time. David |
#6
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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![]() "Lobster" wrote in message ... Doctor Drivel wrote: "Lobster" wrote in message ... Richard wrote: As someone else pointed out, I dont really need soundproofing come to think of it - just the physical barrier for security and the fireproofing, so I guess fireproof plasterboard on both sides of a single skin stud would be effective. I wouldn't... you say security is a concern: if you consider that there's a risk of a scrote breaking into your neighbour's house and climbing up into his roofspace in order to enter your house, do you think a couple of sheets of plasterboard will impede his progress for more than a few seconds?! Yes. I remember enlisting the help of one of my sons with a renovation project a few years ago, and set him on to demolishing a stud partition. He was able to climb through it in a matter of minutes - mind you, he was only 9 at the time. To climb into a loft then through a stud wall and then down into the house below you must have something worth getting. If it is that valuable then it shouldn't be in the house. |
#7
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I wouldn't... you say security is a concern: if you consider that
there's a risk of a scrote breaking into your neighbour's house and climbing up into his roofspace in order to enter your house, do you think a couple of sheets of plasterboard will impede his progress for more than a few seconds?! Really more a privacy than full on security issue then I guess. Also, I don't know how big your loft hatch is but that might well be an issue when it comes to taking sheets of plasterboard up there; at least you're going to be restricted to using small bits only. Hatch is about 2.5ft square so pretty big by all accounts I guess. Thanks. |
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