Well our old cooker packup I bought a new electrical one. A indesit
something or other ... arrived today oddly. unboxed it and was looking
for a plug and it appears its not wired up ready for use. Ho hum microwave
meals till I get it wired lol. you can guess how popular I am right now with
the family.

So I had a looked behind it to see whats there basically there is three
terminals one earth, positive, negative. So I guess I need some appropriate
cable a plug and a fuse and wire the ends of the new cable to the correct
terminal which has screws, so I guess you can wrap the wire around then
screw it back on ?

What kind of cable do I need ? normals 3 core cable surely that would melt
being a high wattage gizmo. Yip so advice on what cable I need and where
I might acquire it from appreciated.

Looks simple enough although those are my famous last words.

Any tips advice or should I get a electrican to do it, although it does look
like child play.

Thanks

On 2007-11-25 21:29:08 +0000, "James" said:

Well our old cooker packup I bought a new electrical one. A indesit
something or other ... arrived today oddly. unboxed it and was looking
for a plug and it appears its not wired up ready for use. Ho hum microwave
meals till I get it wired lol. you can guess how popular I am right now with
the family.

So I had a looked behind it to see whats there basically there is three
terminals one earth, positive, negative. So I guess I need some appropriate
cable a plug and a fuse and wire the ends of the new cable to the correct
terminal which has screws, so I guess you can wrap the wire around then
screw it back on ?

What kind of cable do I need ? normals 3 core cable surely that would melt
being a high wattage gizmo. Yip so advice on what cable I need and where
I might acquire it from appreciated.

Looks simple enough although those are my famous last words.

Any tips advice or should I get a electrican to do it, although it does look
like child play.

Thanks

James, you need an electrician. Really.

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2007-11-25 21:29:08 +0000, "James" said:

Well our old cooker packup I bought a new electrical one. A indesit
something or other ... arrived today oddly. unboxed it and was looking
for a plug and it appears its not wired up ready for use. Ho hum
microwave
meals till I get it wired lol. you can guess how popular I am right now
with
the family.

So I had a looked behind it to see whats there basically there is three
terminals one earth, positive, negative. So I guess I need some
appropriate
cable a plug and a fuse and wire the ends of the new cable to the correct
terminal which has screws, so I guess you can wrap the wire around then
screw it back on ?

What kind of cable do I need ? normals 3 core cable surely that would
melt
being a high wattage gizmo. Yip so advice on what cable I need and
where
I might acquire it from appreciated.

Looks simple enough although those are my famous last words.

Any tips advice or should I get a electrican to do it, although it does
look
like child play.

Thanks

James, you need an electrician. Really.



? ... How so ?

How hard can it be to connect 3 wires ? (I already checked, just 3 screws on
connectors with corresponding wires) all I need to know what kind of wire I
should use 6mm 100 etc ?

If I melt the house down or blow the kitchen up I'll get an electrician. But
this does look DIY able.

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2007-11-25 21:29:08 +0000, "James" said:

Well our old cooker packup I bought a new electrical one. A indesit
something or other ... arrived today oddly. unboxed it and was looking
for a plug and it appears its not wired up ready for use. Ho hum
microwave
meals till I get it wired lol. you can guess how popular I am right now
with
the family.

So I had a looked behind it to see whats there basically there is three
terminals one earth, positive, negative. So I guess I need some
appropriate
cable a plug and a fuse and wire the ends of the new cable to the correct
terminal which has screws, so I guess you can wrap the wire around then
screw it back on ?

What kind of cable do I need ? normals 3 core cable surely that would
melt
being a high wattage gizmo. Yip so advice on what cable I need and
where
I might acquire it from appreciated.

Looks simple enough although those are my famous last words.

Any tips advice or should I get a electrican to do it, although it does
look
like child play.

Thanks

James, you need an electrician. Really.


If it hasn't got a plug then you need a dedicated cooker circuit and the
right sort of wiring. A plug will only give up to 3,000 watts. If you wish,
then check the specification and let us know what the power requirements
are - but if it is more than just a table top type of hotplate / warming
cupboard then you need an electrician.

Do not take chances - fire could result from doing things wrong - no
kidding.

On Sun, 25 Nov 2007 21:29:08 UTC, "James" wrote:

Well our old cooker packup I bought a new electrical one. A indesit
something or other ... arrived today oddly. unboxed it and was looking
for a plug and it appears its not wired up ready for use. Ho hum microwave
meals till I get it wired lol. you can guess how popular I am right now with
the family.

So I had a looked behind it to see whats there basically there is three
terminals one earth, positive, negative. So I guess I need some appropriate
cable a plug and a fuse and wire the ends of the new cable to the correct
terminal which has screws, so I guess you can wrap the wire around then
screw it back on ?

What kind of cable do I need ? normals 3 core cable surely that would melt
being a high wattage gizmo. Yip so advice on what cable I need and where
I might acquire it from appreciated.

Looks simple enough although those are my famous last words.

Any tips advice or should I get a electrican to do it, although it does look
like child play.

It *looks* like it - because you don't appreciate the issues. Get an
electrician. Seriously.

Your post indicates that you don't understand the issues here.

First, the thing is of such a high load that a normal socket and plug
won't work. Second, the cable isn't designed for connecting to a plug
(or if it is, it isn't suitable for the load). Third, cookers usually
need a dedicated circuit with its own separate protection back at the
consumer unit ('fuse box', if you like).

There are various safety issues of which you are probably not aware. Get
an electrician.

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://www.diybanter.com

On Sun, 25 Nov 2007 21:50:42 UTC, "James" wrote:

James, you need an electrician. Really.

? ... How so ?

How hard can it be to connect 3 wires ? (I already checked, just 3 screws on
connectors with corresponding wires) all I need to know what kind of wire I
should use 6mm 100 etc ?

You asked for an answer, and you got the correct one. Why bother asking?

If I melt the house down or blow the kitchen up I'll get an electrician. But
this does look DIY able.

Asuming the house hasn't caught fire, or someone isn't dead!

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://www.diybanter.com

"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 25 Nov 2007 21:50:42 UTC, "James" wrote:

James, you need an electrician. Really.

? ... How so ?

How hard can it be to connect 3 wires ? (I already checked, just 3 screws
on
connectors with corresponding wires) all I need to know what kind of wire
I
should use 6mm 100 etc ?

You asked for an answer, and you got the correct one. Why bother asking?

Be nice to get a bit of info of why I might not be able to do it as opposed
to get an electrician.

If I melt the house down or blow the kitchen up I'll get an electrician.
But
this does look DIY able.

Asuming the house hasn't caught fire, or someone isn't dead!

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://www.diybanter.com

On 2007-11-25 22:04:37 +0000, "James" said:


"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 25 Nov 2007 21:50:42 UTC, "James" wrote:

James, you need an electrician. Really.

? ... How so ?

How hard can it be to connect 3 wires ? (I already checked, just 3 screws
on
connectors with corresponding wires) all I need to know what kind of wire
I
should use 6mm 100 etc ?

You asked for an answer, and you got the correct one. Why bother asking?

Be nice to get a bit of info of why I might not be able to do it as opposed
to get an electrician.


Because you have already demonstrated in your questions that you don't
know enough about electricity and electrical wiring to be able to do
the job safely.

"John" wrote in message
...

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2007-11-25 21:29:08 +0000, "James" said:

Well our old cooker packup I bought a new electrical one. A indesit
something or other ... arrived today oddly. unboxed it and was
looking
for a plug and it appears its not wired up ready for use. Ho hum
microwave
meals till I get it wired lol. you can guess how popular I am right now
with
the family.

So I had a looked behind it to see whats there basically there is three
terminals one earth, positive, negative. So I guess I need some
appropriate
cable a plug and a fuse and wire the ends of the new cable to the
correct
terminal which has screws, so I guess you can wrap the wire around then
screw it back on ?

What kind of cable do I need ? normals 3 core cable surely that would
melt
being a high wattage gizmo. Yip so advice on what cable I need and
where
I might acquire it from appreciated.

Looks simple enough although those are my famous last words.

Any tips advice or should I get a electrican to do it, although it does
look
like child play.

Thanks

James, you need an electrician. Really.


If it hasn't got a plug then you need a dedicated cooker circuit and the
right sort of wiring. A plug will only give up to 3,000 watts. If you
wish, then check the specification and let us know what the power
requirements are - but if it is more than just a table top type of
hotplate / warming cupboard then you need an electrician.

Do not take chances - fire could result from doing things wrong - no
kidding.


Fair enough, your posts tells me I'm out of my depth and I'll happily get a
professional in.

Where the cooker is it has a dedicated circuit in place already, and on the
wall a little below it is a 3 pin socket for a cooker, I simply thought I
could buy the appropriate cable and wire it like a plug basically as what
its looks like to me and from the wiring diagram in the manual.

It says 440v on the back of the cooker.

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2007-11-25 22:04:37 +0000, "James" said:


"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 25 Nov 2007 21:50:42 UTC, "James" wrote:

James, you need an electrician. Really.

? ... How so ?

How hard can it be to connect 3 wires ? (I already checked, just 3
screws
on
connectors with corresponding wires) all I need to know what kind of
wire
I
should use 6mm 100 etc ?

You asked for an answer, and you got the correct one. Why bother asking?

Be nice to get a bit of info of why I might not be able to do it as
opposed
to get an electrician.


Because you have already demonstrated in your questions that you don't
know enough about electricity and electrical wiring to be able to do the
job safely.



Thats understood but an explanation of the the job at hand would be nice as
I previously said.

"James" wrote in message
news
Well our old cooker packup I bought a new electrical one. A indesit
something or other ... arrived today oddly. unboxed it and was looking
for a plug and it appears its not wired up ready for use. Ho hum microwave
meals till I get it wired lol. you can guess how popular I am right now
with the family.

So I had a looked behind it to see whats there basically there is three
terminals one earth, positive, negative. So I guess I need some
appropriate cable a plug and a fuse and wire the ends of the new cable to
the correct terminal which has screws, so I guess you can wrap the wire
around then screw it back on ?

What kind of cable do I need ? normals 3 core cable surely that would melt
being a high wattage gizmo. Yip so advice on what cable I need and
where I might acquire it from appreciated.

Looks simple enough although those are my famous last words.

Any tips advice or should I get a electrican to do it, although it does
look like child play.

Thanks


If you were expecting to be able to just plug this thing into a wall socket,
then I'm afraid I suspect you are sadly mistaken.

From you description, it requires a special cable all the way back to the
consumer unit.
Post back with model details, and the wattage details from the rating plate
on the thing.

If you don't appreciate why, it's definately time for an electrician.
In your last sentences, you appear to have already realised this.

With appropriate knowledge, it it of course DIY-able. We'd certainly give
specific advice on cable sizing etc etc, but your original post demonstrated
such a lack of understanding that I think it would be ***seriously*** unwise
to proceed down a DIY route.

--
Ron

On 2007-11-25 22:20:56 +0000, "James" said:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2007-11-25 22:04:37 +0000, "James" said:


"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 25 Nov 2007 21:50:42 UTC, "James" wrote:

James, you need an electrician. Really.

? ... How so ?

How hard can it be to connect 3 wires ? (I already checked, just 3
screws
on
connectors with corresponding wires) all I need to know what kind of
wire
I
should use 6mm 100 etc ?

You asked for an answer, and you got the correct one. Why bother asking?

Be nice to get a bit of info of why I might not be able to do it as
opposed
to get an electrician.


Because you have already demonstrated in your questions that you don't
know enough about electricity and electrical wiring to be able to do the
job safely.



Thats understood but an explanation of the the job at hand would be nice as
I previously said.

Including but not limited to:

- Determination of the rating and current requirements of the appliance.

- Determination of the adequacy of the supply, correct cabling and
correct circuit protection to be correct for the appliance

- Isolation switch correctly positioned with respect to the intended
place of installation of the appliance

Note in the above that the existence of a circuit and a switch does not
necessarily mean that they are adequate, correctly positioned, properly
protected or safe.

- Selection of suitable cable

- Determination that routing of cable will mean that it is adequately
protected mechanically and thermally

- Testing of the finished installation for safety.

On Sun, 25 Nov 2007 22:04:37 UTC, "James" wrote:


"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 25 Nov 2007 21:50:42 UTC, "James" wrote:

James, you need an electrician. Really.

? ... How so ?

How hard can it be to connect 3 wires ? (I already checked, just 3 screws
on
connectors with corresponding wires) all I need to know what kind of wire
I
should use 6mm 100 etc ?

You asked for an answer, and you got the correct one. Why bother asking?

Be nice to get a bit of info of why I might not be able to do it as opposed
to get an electrician.

I did, in my other reply.

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://www.diybanter.com

It says 440v on the back of the cooker.


I hope you mean 240v.

Otherwise you have something suitable for some commercial kitchen and you
will need to install an ( expensive ) 3-phase supply at your house for
this.

In which case, the cost of a sparkey to hook it up is begining to pale into
insignificance.....

You may be mistaken...
How about you post the manufacturer and model?

--
Ron

"Ron Lowe" ronATlowe-famlyDOTmeDOTukSPURIOUS wrote in message
...
"James" wrote in message
news
Well our old cooker packup I bought a new electrical one. A indesit
something or other ... arrived today oddly. unboxed it and was looking
for a plug and it appears its not wired up ready for use. Ho hum
microwave meals till I get it wired lol. you can guess how popular I am
right now with the family.

So I had a looked behind it to see whats there basically there is three
terminals one earth, positive, negative. So I guess I need some
appropriate cable a plug and a fuse and wire the ends of the new cable to
the correct terminal which has screws, so I guess you can wrap the wire
around then screw it back on ?

What kind of cable do I need ? normals 3 core cable surely that would
melt being a high wattage gizmo. Yip so advice on what cable I need
and where I might acquire it from appreciated.

Looks simple enough although those are my famous last words.

Any tips advice or should I get a electrican to do it, although it does
look like child play.

Thanks


If you were expecting to be able to just plug this thing into a wall
socket,
then I'm afraid I suspect you are sadly mistaken.

From you description, it requires a special cable all the way back to the
consumer unit.
Post back with model details, and the wattage details from the rating
plate on the thing.

If you don't appreciate why, it's definately time for an electrician.
In your last sentences, you appear to have already realised this.

With appropriate knowledge, it it of course DIY-able. We'd certainly
give specific advice on cable sizing etc etc, but your original post
demonstrated such a lack of understanding that I think it would be
***seriously*** unwise to proceed down a DIY route.



I appreciate your input and agree it could possible be dangerous for someone
with limited electrical skills to do this. Perhaps I'll stick to putting up
shelves and changing fuses ... I'll ring around in the morning and see
whos available and costs.

I guess it was wishful thinking that it was plug and play.

I was after a little friendly advice which I usually get from here but I
well got a bit of a ear bashing I feel, anyway onwards and upwards as they
say.

Damn the old poxy cooker for packing up I just figured out how to use it
aslwell.

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2007-11-25 22:20:56 +0000, "James" said:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2007-11-25 22:04:37 +0000, "James" said:


"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 25 Nov 2007 21:50:42 UTC, "James" wrote:

James, you need an electrician. Really.

? ... How so ?

How hard can it be to connect 3 wires ? (I already checked, just 3
screws
on
connectors with corresponding wires) all I need to know what kind of
wire
I
should use 6mm 100 etc ?

You asked for an answer, and you got the correct one. Why bother
asking?

Be nice to get a bit of info of why I might not be able to do it as
opposed
to get an electrician.


Because you have already demonstrated in your questions that you don't
know enough about electricity and electrical wiring to be able to do the
job safely.



Thats understood but an explanation of the the job at hand would be nice
as
I previously said.

Including but not limited to:

- Determination of the rating and current requirements of the appliance.

- Determination of the adequacy of the supply, correct cabling and correct
circuit protection to be correct for the appliance

- Isolation switch correctly positioned with respect to the intended place
of installation of the appliance

Note in the above that the existence of a circuit and a switch does not
necessarily mean that they are adequate, correctly positioned, properly
protected or safe.

- Selection of suitable cable

- Determination that routing of cable will mean that it is adequately
protected mechanically and thermally

- Testing of the finished installation for safety.



Fantastic!

"Ron Lowe" ronATlowe-famlyDOTmeDOTukSPURIOUS wrote in message
...
It says 440v on the back of the cooker.


I hope you mean 240v.

Otherwise you have something suitable for some commercial kitchen and you
will need to install an ( expensive ) 3-phase supply at your house for
this.

In which case, the cost of a sparkey to hook it up is begining to pale
into insignificance.....

You may be mistaken...
How about you post the manufacturer and model?



No it definitely says 440v and is a home cooker.

"James" wrote in message
...

"Ron Lowe" ronATlowe-famlyDOTmeDOTukSPURIOUS wrote in message
...
It says 440v on the back of the cooker.


I hope you mean 240v.

Otherwise you have something suitable for some commercial kitchen and you
will need to install an ( expensive ) 3-phase supply at your house for
this.

In which case, the cost of a sparkey to hook it up is begining to pale
into insignificance.....

You may be mistaken...
How about you post the manufacturer and model?



No it definitely says 440v and is a home cooker.


Then you are SOL, it ain't gonna work.
Take it back to the shop.

After repeated requsts, you have STILL not told us the MANUFACTURER and
MODEL...
We cannot help any further untill you do so.

--
Ron

In message , James
writes

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2007-11-25 22:04:37 +0000, "James" said:


"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 25 Nov 2007 21:50:42 UTC, "James" wrote:

James, you need an electrician. Really.

? ... How so ?

How hard can it be to connect 3 wires ? (I already checked, just 3
screws
on
connectors with corresponding wires) all I need to know what kind of
wire
I
should use 6mm 100 etc ?

You asked for an answer, and you got the correct one. Why bother asking?

Be nice to get a bit of info of why I might not be able to do it as
opposed
to get an electrician.


Because you have already demonstrated in your questions that you don't
know enough about electricity and electrical wiring to be able to do the
job safely.



Thats understood but an explanation of the the job at hand would be nice as
I previously said.


Well, basically, a normal draws more current than a mains ring is spec'd
to deliver, it normally goes on it's own dedicated circuit from the
consumer unit in 6mm T&E, with it's own fused spur

It's not a 5 minute job with a blade and a screwdriver



--
geoff

"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message , James
writes

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2007-11-25 22:04:37 +0000, "James" said:


"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 25 Nov 2007 21:50:42 UTC, "James" wrote:

James, you need an electrician. Really.

? ... How so ?

How hard can it be to connect 3 wires ? (I already checked, just 3
screws
on
connectors with corresponding wires) all I need to know what kind of
wire
I
should use 6mm 100 etc ?

You asked for an answer, and you got the correct one. Why bother
asking?

Be nice to get a bit of info of why I might not be able to do it as
opposed
to get an electrician.


Because you have already demonstrated in your questions that you don't
know enough about electricity and electrical wiring to be able to do the
job safely.



Thats understood but an explanation of the the job at hand would be nice
as
I previously said.


Well, basically, a normal draws more current than a mains ring is spec'd
to deliver, it normally goes on it's own dedicated circuit from the
consumer unit in 6mm T&E, with it's own fused spur

It's not a 5 minute job with a blade and a screwdriver





Thats me a blad and screwdriver jobby ... thanks for that, what I was
after.

"Ron Lowe" ronATlowe-famlyDOTmeDOTukSPURIOUS wrote in message
...
"James" wrote in message
...

"Ron Lowe" ronATlowe-famlyDOTmeDOTukSPURIOUS wrote in message
...
It says 440v on the back of the cooker.


I hope you mean 240v.

Otherwise you have something suitable for some commercial kitchen and
you will need to install an ( expensive ) 3-phase supply at your house
for this.

In which case, the cost of a sparkey to hook it up is begining to pale
into insignificance.....

You may be mistaken...
How about you post the manufacturer and model?



No it definitely says 440v and is a home cooker.


Then you are SOL, it ain't gonna work.
Take it back to the shop.

After repeated requsts, you have STILL not told us the MANUFACTURER and
MODEL...
We cannot help any further untill you do so.



My apologies, here it is
http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Produc...RIC+COOKER.htm

as you can see not a commercial cooker. It definitely says 440v on the
platic box cover the 3 wire connections.

"Ron Lowe" ronATlowe-famlyDOTmeDOTukSPURIOUS wrote in message
...
"James" wrote in message
...

"Ron Lowe" ronATlowe-famlyDOTmeDOTukSPURIOUS wrote in message
...
It says 440v on the back of the cooker.


I hope you mean 240v.

Otherwise you have something suitable for some commercial kitchen and
you will need to install an ( expensive ) 3-phase supply at your house
for this.

In which case, the cost of a sparkey to hook it up is begining to pale
into insignificance.....

You may be mistaken...
How about you post the manufacturer and model?



No it definitely says 440v and is a home cooker.


Then you are SOL, it ain't gonna work.
Take it back to the shop.

After repeated requsts, you have STILL not told us the MANUFACTURER and
MODEL...
We cannot help any further untill you do so.

--
Ron




As a follow-up to myself,

There is always the possibility it is designed for a multi-phase supply for
international use, but in the UK it would be run from a single phase.
There may be jumpers on the incoming supply terminals which can be removed
if run on a multi-phase supply. If it really is suitable for domestic use
in the UK, then the jumpers are installed, and all the elements run off the
single phase. In this case, the single phase needs to have a high enough
rating.

My Fisher and Paykel oven fromNZ is like this.

Your electrician will advise.

--
Ron

In message , James
writes

"John" wrote in message
...

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2007-11-25 21:29:08 +0000, "James" said:

Well our old cooker packup I bought a new electrical one. A indesit
something or other ... arrived today oddly. unboxed it and was
looking
for a plug and it appears its not wired up ready for use. Ho hum
microwave
meals till I get it wired lol. you can guess how popular I am right now
with
the family.

So I had a looked behind it to see whats there basically there is three
terminals one earth, positive, negative. So I guess I need some
appropriate
cable a plug and a fuse and wire the ends of the new cable to the
correct
terminal which has screws, so I guess you can wrap the wire around then
screw it back on ?

What kind of cable do I need ? normals 3 core cable surely that would
melt
being a high wattage gizmo. Yip so advice on what cable I need and
where
I might acquire it from appreciated.

Looks simple enough although those are my famous last words.

Any tips advice or should I get a electrican to do it, although it does
look
like child play.

Thanks

James, you need an electrician. Really.


If it hasn't got a plug then you need a dedicated cooker circuit and the
right sort of wiring. A plug will only give up to 3,000 watts. If you
wish, then check the specification and let us know what the power
requirements are - but if it is more than just a table top type of
hotplate / warming cupboard then you need an electrician.

Do not take chances - fire could result from doing things wrong - no
kidding.


Fair enough, your posts tells me I'm out of my depth and I'll happily get a
professional in.

Where the cooker is it has a dedicated circuit in place already, and on the
wall a little below it is a 3 pin socket for a cooker, I simply thought I
could buy the appropriate cable and wire it like a plug basically as what
its looks like to me and from the wiring diagram in the manual.

Now where did you mention that before ?


It says 440v on the back of the cooker.


Really ?

maybe you need to plug it into a streetlight then ...

Domestic appliances are rated at 230v not 440v

Either you misread it, or it fell of the back of the wrong truck





--
geoff

"James" wrote in message
...

"Ron Lowe" ronATlowe-famlyDOTmeDOTukSPURIOUS wrote in message
...
"James" wrote in message
...

"Ron Lowe" ronATlowe-famlyDOTmeDOTukSPURIOUS wrote in message
...
It says 440v on the back of the cooker.


I hope you mean 240v.

Otherwise you have something suitable for some commercial kitchen and
you will need to install an ( expensive ) 3-phase supply at your house
for this.

In which case, the cost of a sparkey to hook it up is begining to pale
into insignificance.....

You may be mistaken...
How about you post the manufacturer and model?



No it definitely says 440v and is a home cooker.


Then you are SOL, it ain't gonna work.
Take it back to the shop.

After repeated requsts, you have STILL not told us the MANUFACTURER and
MODEL...
We cannot help any further untill you do so.



My apologies, here it is
http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Produc...RIC+COOKER.htm

as you can see not a commercial cooker. It definitely says 440v on the
platic box cover the 3 wire connections.



OK, that's probably the voltage rating of the plastic box!
The cooker is 240V.

That thing has 4 electric rings and an electric oven.
It will require a dedicated supply.
That may already be present in your house.

It will require an electrician to determine whether the existing supply is
adequate.

This is non-trivial.

--
Ron

In message , James
writes

"Ron Lowe" ronATlowe-famlyDOTmeDOTukSPURIOUS wrote in message
. ..
It says 440v on the back of the cooker.


I hope you mean 240v.

Otherwise you have something suitable for some commercial kitchen and you
will need to install an ( expensive ) 3-phase supply at your house for
this.

In which case, the cost of a sparkey to hook it up is begining to pale
into insignificance.....

You may be mistaken...
How about you post the manufacturer and model?



No it definitely says 440v and is a home cooker.


OK - here's the science bit

Domestic houses are wired with single phase 230 volt supplies

230 volts is **** all use on a 440 volt appliance

take it back to the man down the pub who you bought it from and ask for
your money back



--
geoff

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-11-25 22:04:37 +0000, "James" said:


"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 25 Nov 2007 21:50:42 UTC, "James" wrote:

James, you need an electrician. Really.

? ... How so ?

How hard can it be to connect 3 wires ? (I already checked, just 3
screws on
connectors with corresponding wires) all I need to know what kind
of wire I
should use 6mm 100 etc ?

You asked for an answer, and you got the correct one. Why bother
asking?

Be nice to get a bit of info of why I might not be able to do it as
opposed to get an electrician.


Because you have already demonstrated in your questions that you don't
know enough about electricity and electrical wiring to be able to do
the job safely.

James take some good advice - get an electrician in. Unless you wish to
kill several people.



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message , James
writes

"Ron Lowe" ronATlowe-famlyDOTmeDOTukSPURIOUS wrote in message
.. .
It says 440v on the back of the cooker.


I hope you mean 240v.

Otherwise you have something suitable for some commercial kitchen and
you
will need to install an ( expensive ) 3-phase supply at your house for
this.

In which case, the cost of a sparkey to hook it up is begining to pale
into insignificance.....

You may be mistaken...
How about you post the manufacturer and model?



No it definitely says 440v and is a home cooker.


OK - here's the science bit

Domestic houses are wired with single phase 230 volt supplies

230 volts is **** all use on a 440 volt appliance

take it back to the man down the pub who you bought it from and ask for
your money back





If you carry on reading you will see it was bought from argos not a man down
anywhere. And turns out its 240v.

"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message , James writes

"John" wrote in message
...

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2007-11-25 21:29:08 +0000, "James" said:

Well our old cooker packup I bought a new electrical one. A indesit
something or other ... arrived today oddly. unboxed it and was
looking
for a plug and it appears its not wired up ready for use. Ho hum
microwave
meals till I get it wired lol. you can guess how popular I am right
now
with
the family.

So I had a looked behind it to see whats there basically there is
three
terminals one earth, positive, negative. So I guess I need some
appropriate
cable a plug and a fuse and wire the ends of the new cable to the
correct
terminal which has screws, so I guess you can wrap the wire around
then
screw it back on ?

What kind of cable do I need ? normals 3 core cable surely that would
melt
being a high wattage gizmo. Yip so advice on what cable I need and
where
I might acquire it from appreciated.

Looks simple enough although those are my famous last words.

Any tips advice or should I get a electrican to do it, although it
does
look
like child play.

Thanks

James, you need an electrician. Really.


If it hasn't got a plug then you need a dedicated cooker circuit and the
right sort of wiring. A plug will only give up to 3,000 watts. If you
wish, then check the specification and let us know what the power
requirements are - but if it is more than just a table top type of
hotplate / warming cupboard then you need an electrician.

Do not take chances - fire could result from doing things wrong - no
kidding.


Fair enough, your posts tells me I'm out of my depth and I'll happily get
a
professional in.

Where the cooker is it has a dedicated circuit in place already, and on
the
wall a little below it is a 3 pin socket for a cooker, I simply thought I
could buy the appropriate cable and wire it like a plug basically as what
its looks like to me and from the wiring diagram in the manual.

Now where did you mention that before ?


It says 440v on the back of the cooker.


Really ?

maybe you need to plug it into a streetlight then ...

Domestic appliances are rated at 230v not 440v

Either you misread it, or it fell of the back of the wrong truck







Shakes head at you.

In message , James
writes
My apologies, here it is
http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Produc...rail/searchtex
t%3EELECTRIC+COOKER.htm

as you can see not a commercial cooker. It definitely says 440v on the
platic box cover the 3 wire connections.


James, do I recall that you said there was a socket in place for a
cooker? Is this a 3 pin mains socket such as you would plug any normal
appliance into? If so it will not be adequate for the cooker, if it is a
blank plate with a cable outlet and a "cooker" switch mounted above it
then you could be in luck



It would appear to be 9 kW max and 240V

http://www.indesit.co.uk/indesit/_pd...4968202_UK.pdf
--
Bill

In message , James
writes

"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message , James
writes

"Ron Lowe" ronATlowe-famlyDOTmeDOTukSPURIOUS wrote in message
. ..
It says 440v on the back of the cooker.


I hope you mean 240v.

Otherwise you have something suitable for some commercial kitchen and
you
will need to install an ( expensive ) 3-phase supply at your house for
this.

In which case, the cost of a sparkey to hook it up is begining to pale
into insignificance.....

You may be mistaken...
How about you post the manufacturer and model?



No it definitely says 440v and is a home cooker.


OK - here's the science bit

Domestic houses are wired with single phase 230 volt supplies

230 volts is **** all use on a 440 volt appliance

take it back to the man down the pub who you bought it from and ask for
your money back

If you carry on reading you will see it was bought from argos not a man down
anywhere. And turns out its 240v.

My post was sent before your argos revelation appeared


--
geoff

"Bill" wrote in message
...
In message , James writes
My apologies, here it is
http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Produc...rail/searchtex
t%3EELECTRIC+COOKER.htm

as you can see not a commercial cooker. It definitely says 440v on the
platic box cover the 3 wire connections.


James, do I recall that you said there was a socket in place for a cooker?
Is this a 3 pin mains socket such as you would plug any normal appliance
into? If so it will not be adequate for the cooker, if it is a blank plate
with a cable outlet and a "cooker" switch mounted above it then you could
be in luck



It would appear to be 9 kW max and 240V

http://www.indesit.co.uk/indesit/_pd...4968202_UK.pdf


There is a 3 pin mains socket but it doesn't have the usual on off switch to
the top right, instead there is a big red switch above the kitchken counter.

Althought there is a blank plate to the right of it for god knows what.
Perhaps this is where the cooker should go ? and the socket that we plugged
the cooker into it for something else. I'll test it tommorow to see if the
big red cooker marked switch operates this socket or not then I will assume
it ioperate the one which is blanked plated.

The plot thickens

"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message , James
writes

"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message , James
writes

"Ron Lowe" ronATlowe-famlyDOTmeDOTukSPURIOUS wrote in message
...
It says 440v on the back of the cooker.


I hope you mean 240v.

Otherwise you have something suitable for some commercial kitchen and
you
will need to install an ( expensive ) 3-phase supply at your house
for
this.

In which case, the cost of a sparkey to hook it up is begining to
pale
into insignificance.....

You may be mistaken...
How about you post the manufacturer and model?



No it definitely says 440v and is a home cooker.


OK - here's the science bit

Domestic houses are wired with single phase 230 volt supplies

230 volts is **** all use on a 440 volt appliance

take it back to the man down the pub who you bought it from and ask for
your money back

If you carry on reading you will see it was bought from argos not a man
down
anywhere. And turns out its 240v.

My post was sent before your argos revelation appeared




Ahhh .... oops

James wrote:
"Bill" wrote in message
...
In message , James
writes
My apologies, here it is
http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Produc...rail/searchtex
t%3EELECTRIC+COOKER.htm

as you can see not a commercial cooker. It definitely says 440v on
the platic box cover the 3 wire connections.


James, do I recall that you said there was a socket in place for a
cooker? Is this a 3 pin mains socket such as you would plug any
normal appliance into? If so it will not be adequate for the cooker,
if it is a blank plate with a cable outlet and a "cooker" switch
mounted above it then you could be in luck



It would appear to be 9 kW max and 240V

http://www.indesit.co.uk/indesit/_pd...4968202_UK.pdf


There is a 3 pin mains socket but it doesn't have the usual on off
switch to the top right, instead there is a big red switch above the
kitchken counter.
Althought there is a blank plate to the right of it for god knows
what. Perhaps this is where the cooker should go ? and the socket
that we plugged the cooker into it for something else. I'll test it
tommorow to see if the big red cooker marked switch operates this
socket or not then I will assume it ioperate the one which is blanked
plated.
The plot thickens

More likely the smoke thickens. Have you any idea how dangerous this could
be? Seriously you could kill people. Get a sparks in.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
. uk...
James wrote:
"Bill" wrote in message
...
In message , James
writes
My apologies, here it is
http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Produc...rail/searchtex
t%3EELECTRIC+COOKER.htm

as you can see not a commercial cooker. It definitely says 440v on
the platic box cover the 3 wire connections.


James, do I recall that you said there was a socket in place for a
cooker? Is this a 3 pin mains socket such as you would plug any
normal appliance into? If so it will not be adequate for the cooker,
if it is a blank plate with a cable outlet and a "cooker" switch
mounted above it then you could be in luck



It would appear to be 9 kW max and 240V

http://www.indesit.co.uk/indesit/_pd...4968202_UK.pdf


There is a 3 pin mains socket but it doesn't have the usual on off
switch to the top right, instead there is a big red switch above the
kitchken counter.
Althought there is a blank plate to the right of it for god knows
what. Perhaps this is where the cooker should go ? and the socket
that we plugged the cooker into it for something else. I'll test it
tommorow to see if the big red cooker marked switch operates this
socket or not then I will assume it ioperate the one which is blanked
plated.
The plot thickens

More likely the smoke thickens. Have you any idea how dangerous this
could be? Seriously you could kill people. Get a sparks in.




Jesus christ I've already said we are getting an electrician this is just a
chit chat now.

Hopefully we are not going to go round and round in circles.

To confirm so there are no more posts like this telling me to get a spark. I
am getting a electrician to do this work end of.

pffft

James wrote:

I was after a little friendly advice which I usually get from here but I
well got a bit of a ear bashing I feel, anyway onwards and upwards as they
say.

You could ignore the bull**** here and disconnect the wire from the old
cooker
then connect it to the new one, after turning off the power.

--
Eiron.

In message , James
writes

There is a 3 pin mains socket but it doesn't have the usual on off switch to
the top right, instead there is a big red switch above the kitchken counter.

For a fridge then, you can isolate the power to it without having to
pull it from under the work surface, handy if it has just started
smoking :-)




Althought there is a blank plate to the right of it for god knows what.
Perhaps this is where the cooker should go ? and the socket that we plugged
the cooker into it for something else. I'll test it tommorow to see if the
big red cooker marked switch operates this socket or not then I will assume
it ioperate the one which is blanked plated.

Sounds likely, ask around and try and find an electrician though, you
still have to connect it up.

The plot thickens



--
Bill

On Sun, 25 Nov 2007 23:28:55 UTC, "James" wrote:

There is a 3 pin mains socket but it doesn't have the usual on off switch to
the top right, instead there is a big red switch above the kitchken counter.

Althought there is a blank plate to the right of it for god knows what.
Perhaps this is where the cooker should go ? and the socket that we plugged
the cooker into it for something else. I'll test it tommorow to see if the
big red cooker marked switch operates this socket or not then I will assume
it ioperate the one which is blanked plated.

It's fairly common to run a single dedicated circuit for the cooker, to
a connection box on the wall. Such box has an isolating switch (your big
red switch), but used also to have a 13 amp socket for the kettle or
whatever. The red switch will probably isolate both the socket and the
hidden connection point inside the box (there's probably a piece of
plastic or a hole or whatever for entry of cable from cooker). Of
course, it's LIVE in there, and needs isolation elsewhere before working
on it (I know you'll be getting in an electrician, anyway).

It's felt that use of that 3 pin socket is best avoided anyway, for
various safety reasons, although that may be contentious!

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://www.diybanter.com

On Sun, 25 Nov 2007 23:36:41 +0000, Eiron wrote:

James wrote:

I was after a little friendly advice which I usually get from here but I
well got a bit of a ear bashing I feel, anyway onwards and upwards as they
say.

You could ignore the bull**** here and disconnect the wire from the old
cooker
then connect it to the new one, after turning off the power.

This is probably the worst advice given on this subject so far!


--
Regards, Paul Herber, Sandrila Ltd.
Electrical for Visio http://www.electrical.sandrila.co.uk/

Ron Lowe wrote:
No it definitely says 440v and is a home cooker.

Then you are SOL, it ain't gonna work.
Take it back to the shop.

After repeated requsts, you have STILL not told us the MANUFACTURER
and MODEL...
We cannot help any further untill you do so.

My apologies, here it is
http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Produc...RIC+COOKER.htm

as you can see not a commercial cooker. It definitely says 440v on the
platic box cover the 3 wire connections.

OK, that's probably the voltage rating of the plastic box!
The cooker is 240V.

That thing has 4 electric rings and an electric oven.
It will require a dedicated supply.
That may already be present in your house.

It will require an electrician to determine whether the existing supply
is adequate.

This is non-trivial.

http://www.indesit.co.uk/indesit/_pd...4806802_UK.pdf

Page 4
N.B.: the following installation procedure must be carried out by a
qualified electrician. The electrical installation must comply with the
IEE Regulations,Building & local By-Lays. and

N.B.: the power supply cable must have these minimum requirements:
Type: H05RR-F Section: 3x4 mm2

Page 22
Voltage and Frequency 240V~ 50/60Hz


Now what is that nice polite phrase about read the manual.

Eiron wrote:
James wrote:

I was after a little friendly advice which I usually get from here
but I well got a bit of a ear bashing I feel, anyway onwards and
upwards as they say.

You could ignore the bull**** here and disconnect the wire from the
old cooker
then connect it to the new one, after turning off the power.

What are you, some kind of idiot? Its clear from his posts that James
doesn't have enough knowledge to do the job safely.

The advice he has recieved isn't 'bull****' its given with genuine concern
for his safety.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257