Hello,

We have an up-and-over door which is causing some problems.

First the wires have got tangled on the left hand side.

Another day, the wire on the right hand side got tangled.

Ok, it was a DIY job to untangle and refit but these things always
happen at the worst time, when you are rushing to get somewhere, and
it really helps to have a second man to help lower the door.

Now one of the rollers keeps falling out of the track.

I know I could but a replacement roller and wire kit but I don't know
whether it would be easier to rip it all out and start again. At least
then I could have some trouble free months.

I think this would give me the opportunity to replace the frame. I
think the frame is not true at the one side, which means there is a
slight gap along the pone edge of the door. I worry that this is a
security risk. I think this is responsible for the roller jumping out
now and again.

Also the piece of wood across the top of the frame does not look too
secure. I think it is just nailed into the side pieces and I am sure
it seems to twist a little as the door goes up and down.

I would like to take it all out and fit a more sturdy frame.

Do you think I am overreacting? Should I repair what I have got and
save some time and money?

If I have to remove the old door, how easy is that? I'm worried about
the spring.

I presume the new door comes pre-tensioned and I just remove a locking
pin when I am finished?

Thanks.

Fred wrote:
Hello,

We have an up-and-over door which is causing some problems.

First the wires have got tangled on the left hand side.

Another day, the wire on the right hand side got tangled.

Ok, it was a DIY job to untangle and refit but these things always
happen at the worst time, when you are rushing to get somewhere, and
it really helps to have a second man to help lower the door.

Now one of the rollers keeps falling out of the track.

I know I could but a replacement roller and wire kit but I don't know
whether it would be easier to rip it all out and start again. At least
then I could have some trouble free months.

I think this would give me the opportunity to replace the frame. I
think the frame is not true at the one side, which means there is a
slight gap along the pone edge of the door. I worry that this is a
security risk. I think this is responsible for the roller jumping out
now and again.

Also the piece of wood across the top of the frame does not look too
secure. I think it is just nailed into the side pieces and I am sure
it seems to twist a little as the door goes up and down.

I would like to take it all out and fit a more sturdy frame.

Do you think I am overreacting? Should I repair what I have got and
save some time and money?

If I have to remove the old door, how easy is that? I'm worried about
the spring.

I presume the new door comes pre-tensioned and I just remove a locking
pin when I am finished?

Thanks.

Might be worth checking to see what a contractor would charge IIRC it's
one of those areas where it's less than you might think.

Fred wrote:
Garage up and over door woes.
If I have to remove the old door, how easy is that? I'm worried about
the spring.

I presume the new door comes pre-tensioned and I just remove a locking
pin when I am finished?

I have only dealt with Henderson doors, but I think the majority are
very similar in design.

The spring tension is held by putting a split pin, or other suitable
piece of metal through a hole at the left hand end (from the inside of
the garage, loooking at the rear of the door) of the shaft, usually
between the metal bracket that is screwed to the lintel (top beam).

Always make sure this shaft is locked when taking them apart, as they
are a bloody swine to get retensioned.They do swing up fast if not
locked, but IMO, it isnt dangerous, unless you have your head directly
in line with it.
The cone rollers and wire strings are £20 for a new set.
The runners that are screwed to the door uprights are held by 2 screws -
top and bottom. If they are not true with the door, then one of the
rollers on the door will continually come out. They should be a close,
but not tight fit all the way up.
A new door is £175 upwards. Your door is probably still ok, but just
needs a little adjustment to get it straight and secure.
Alan.

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A.Lee wrote:

The spring tension is held by putting a split pin, or other suitable
piece of metal through a hole at the left hand end

I still dont know my left from right - the hole in the shaft is at the
RIGHT hand end, when inside the garage.
Alan.
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