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Default Running Pipes in studded walls

Hi All

I am planning to re-position a studded wall which is going to be dry-lined
and need to run some pipes, mainly 15mm possibly some 22mm, in the cavity.
Any advice on passing them through the head and noggins or if needed through
the studs. Basically do you notch or do you drill? The British Gypsum site
has plenty of advice regards steel framed walls but not much help on timber
framed walls. Various US sites on dry-lining show pipes notched through
studs and metal plates tacked on over the notch to protect against nail or
screw puncture.

Richard


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Default Running Pipes in studded walls

I always drill holes twice the size of the pipework and have not had any
problems.


"Richard Pawlowski" wrote in message
...
Hi All

I am planning to re-position a studded wall which is going to be dry-lined
and need to run some pipes, mainly 15mm possibly some 22mm, in the cavity.
Any advice on passing them through the head and noggins or if needed
through the studs. Basically do you notch or do you drill? The British
Gypsum site has plenty of advice regards steel framed walls but not much
help on timber framed walls. Various US sites on dry-lining show pipes
notched through studs and metal plates tacked on over the notch to protect
against nail or screw puncture.

Richard



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Default Running Pipes in studded walls

Richard Pawlowski wrote:

I am planning to re-position a studded wall which is going to be dry-lined
and need to run some pipes, mainly 15mm possibly some 22mm, in the cavity.
Any advice on passing them through the head and noggins or if needed through
the studs. Basically do you notch or do you drill? The British Gypsum site
has plenty of advice regards steel framed walls but not much help on timber
framed walls. Various US sites on dry-lining show pipes notched through
studs and metal plates tacked on over the notch to protect against nail or
screw puncture.


Whichever is easiest. With a retrofit it is often easier to notch (you
can just drill some overlapping holes with a spade bit to make a notch),
although with plastic pipe it is also quite easy these days to thread it
through holes. Going through noggings and the top plate will not weaken
the wall much anyway. (if going through a run of studs then drilling in
the centre of the stud retains more strength.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/
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Default Running Pipes in studded walls

You can get metal plates to screw in place in a recess over the notched
pipe so it won't get nailed or drilled. They are sold for wires by such
as TLC.

Peter Scott

John Rumm wrote:
Richard Pawlowski wrote:

I am planning to re-position a studded wall which is going to be
dry-lined and need to run some pipes, mainly 15mm possibly some 22mm,
in the cavity. Any advice on passing them through the head and noggins
or if needed through the studs. Basically do you notch or do you
drill? The British Gypsum site has plenty of advice regards steel
framed walls but not much help on timber framed walls. Various US
sites on dry-lining show pipes notched through studs and metal plates
tacked on over the notch to protect against nail or screw puncture.


Whichever is easiest. With a retrofit it is often easier to notch (you
can just drill some overlapping holes with a spade bit to make a notch),
although with plastic pipe it is also quite easy these days to thread it
through holes. Going through noggings and the top plate will not weaken
the wall much anyway. (if going through a run of studs then drilling in
the centre of the stud retains more strength.

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