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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Running Pipes in studded walls
Hi All
I am planning to re-position a studded wall which is going to be dry-lined and need to run some pipes, mainly 15mm possibly some 22mm, in the cavity. Any advice on passing them through the head and noggins or if needed through the studs. Basically do you notch or do you drill? The British Gypsum site has plenty of advice regards steel framed walls but not much help on timber framed walls. Various US sites on dry-lining show pipes notched through studs and metal plates tacked on over the notch to protect against nail or screw puncture. Richard |
#2
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Running Pipes in studded walls
I always drill holes twice the size of the pipework and have not had any
problems. "Richard Pawlowski" wrote in message ... Hi All I am planning to re-position a studded wall which is going to be dry-lined and need to run some pipes, mainly 15mm possibly some 22mm, in the cavity. Any advice on passing them through the head and noggins or if needed through the studs. Basically do you notch or do you drill? The British Gypsum site has plenty of advice regards steel framed walls but not much help on timber framed walls. Various US sites on dry-lining show pipes notched through studs and metal plates tacked on over the notch to protect against nail or screw puncture. Richard |
#3
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Running Pipes in studded walls
Richard Pawlowski wrote:
I am planning to re-position a studded wall which is going to be dry-lined and need to run some pipes, mainly 15mm possibly some 22mm, in the cavity. Any advice on passing them through the head and noggins or if needed through the studs. Basically do you notch or do you drill? The British Gypsum site has plenty of advice regards steel framed walls but not much help on timber framed walls. Various US sites on dry-lining show pipes notched through studs and metal plates tacked on over the notch to protect against nail or screw puncture. Whichever is easiest. With a retrofit it is often easier to notch (you can just drill some overlapping holes with a spade bit to make a notch), although with plastic pipe it is also quite easy these days to thread it through holes. Going through noggings and the top plate will not weaken the wall much anyway. (if going through a run of studs then drilling in the centre of the stud retains more strength. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#4
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Running Pipes in studded walls
You can get metal plates to screw in place in a recess over the notched
pipe so it won't get nailed or drilled. They are sold for wires by such as TLC. Peter Scott John Rumm wrote: Richard Pawlowski wrote: I am planning to re-position a studded wall which is going to be dry-lined and need to run some pipes, mainly 15mm possibly some 22mm, in the cavity. Any advice on passing them through the head and noggins or if needed through the studs. Basically do you notch or do you drill? The British Gypsum site has plenty of advice regards steel framed walls but not much help on timber framed walls. Various US sites on dry-lining show pipes notched through studs and metal plates tacked on over the notch to protect against nail or screw puncture. Whichever is easiest. With a retrofit it is often easier to notch (you can just drill some overlapping holes with a spade bit to make a notch), although with plastic pipe it is also quite easy these days to thread it through holes. Going through noggings and the top plate will not weaken the wall much anyway. (if going through a run of studs then drilling in the centre of the stud retains more strength. |
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