I have a need to fit a pair of small 2.1m wide farm style gates, with
7 inch sq wooden posts.

I also have 2 sets of farm hinges, the ones with square shanks that
you drive in.

1 - What size hole do you drill ??
2 - Both hinge pins have to point upwards, so how do I stop gate
thefts ??
3 - Whats the best step by step method of erecting the posts and gates
??

bbb wrote:
I have a need to fit a pair of small 2.1m wide farm style gates, with
7 inch sq wooden posts.

I also have 2 sets of farm hinges, the ones with square shanks that
you drive in.

The bottom ones should be spikes that you drive in, the top ones should
be threaded and go all the way through the post, with a nut & washer on
the other side.


1 - What size hole do you drill ??

Around 3/4"


2 - Both hinge pins have to point upwards, so how do I stop gate
thefts ??

Pointing them both upwards is good because it makes for easy gate
removal. However, if gate theft is a problem in your area, point the top
one downwards. This is achieved by fitting the post pin first, propping
the gate in place, then fitting the gate hinge.

This only makes it more difficult to remove the gate; not impossible.
Think about it - anything which you can fit someone can come along and
remove, given enough time and a few tools.


--
Grunff

On Sun, 02 Sep 2007 09:18:53 +0100, Grunff wrote:

bbb wrote:
I have a need to fit a pair of small 2.1m wide farm style gates, with
7 inch sq wooden posts.

I also have 2 sets of farm hinges, the ones with square shanks that
you drive in.

The bottom ones should be spikes that you drive in, the top ones should
be threaded and go all the way through the post, with a nut & washer on
the other side.


1 - What size hole do you drill ??

Around 3/4"


2 - Both hinge pins have to point upwards, so how do I stop gate
thefts ??

Pointing them both upwards is good because it makes for easy gate
removal. However, if gate theft is a problem in your area, point the top
one downwards. This is achieved by fitting the post pin first, propping
the gate in place, then fitting the gate hinge.

This only makes it more difficult to remove the gate; not impossible.
Think about it - anything which you can fit someone can come along and
remove, given enough time and a few tools.

Agreed !

The bottom pin takes most of the weight, the top one allows you to get
it level.

If you use threaded pins on both hinges you can get more adjustment on
the position of the gates.

Unless gate theft is a real problem leave the pins pointing up.
Robert

I suppose you have to put one post in, fix that gate, and try work out
where the other post goes.

"bbb" wrote in message
news
I suppose you have to put one post in, fix that gate, and try work out
where the other post goes.

I'm concerned that you haven't been supplied with the correct/best fittings.
For the gates have you got strap hinges - eye for the hook and metal straps
that you bolt through the top and bottom rails? If you have then you have no
fine adjustment other that hammering the hooks in further. you can get an
adjustable bottom hinge - eye on a threaded bar (3/4" or 20 mm) with two
"washers" and nuts . or swap two of the drive in hooks for hooks on
threaded bar or since you are using square posts you can get hooks on steel
plates to screw on (potential saving on 3/4" bit and if the gates are not
close to 240v you will need a brace or a good cordless drill).

Once you've established the hardware and how you are going to fasten the
gate closed against the post then its a simple measuring job to fix the
second post relevant to the first (don't forget to check the ground level -
you mount the hinge end 4" off the ground and find the other end of the gate
needs 2" more clearance.) I think I'd have saved some typing by finding you
a link to see available hardware so :
http://www.ccfagri.co.uk/Images/Cata...20Hardware.pdf

best of luck
PeterK