I'm planning on moving a light switch to the other side of the door
frame. It is a new home with an internal blockwork wall with
platerboard fixed with dabs. Floorboard access into the ceiling space
from above isn't practical.

I'm thinking of getting access to the existing wires through a hole
near the ceiling and routing them above the lintel and dropping them
down the other side. I think I can drop a weight through a hole to do
the latter but going across the top concerns me a bit because it feels
a bit more solid. I'm not sure if this is likely to be a continous
dab (so to speak) or what. I'm thinking I can probably cut a groove
and embed a bit of ducting but am not sure how messy this will all
become.

Any hints, tips or suggestions would be very welcome.

Thanks,
Aardvark.

"AA" wrote in message
ups.com...
I'm planning on moving a light switch to the other side of the door
frame. It is a new home with an internal blockwork wall with
platerboard fixed with dabs. Floorboard access into the ceiling space
from above isn't practical.

I'm thinking of getting access to the existing wires through a hole
near the ceiling and routing them above the lintel and dropping them
down the other side. I think I can drop a weight through a hole to do
the latter but going across the top concerns me a bit because it feels
a bit more solid. I'm not sure if this is likely to be a continous
dab (so to speak) or what. I'm thinking I can probably cut a groove
and embed a bit of ducting but am not sure how messy this will all
become.

Any hints, tips or suggestions would be very welcome.

Thanks,
Aardvark.

There ought to be a continuous dab around all perimeters, internal angles
and ceiling/skirting lines if done properly,
you may be able to feed the cable across the head if you try mid-point
between the ceiling line and the angle bead.
Good luck,
Franko.

"AA" wrote in message
ups.com...
I'm planning on moving a light switch to the other side of the door
frame. It is a new home with an internal blockwork wall with
platerboard fixed with dabs. Floorboard access into the ceiling space
from above isn't practical.

I'm thinking of getting access to the existing wires through a hole
near the ceiling and routing them above the lintel and dropping them
down the other side. I think I can drop a weight through a hole to do
the latter but going across the top concerns me a bit because it feels
a bit more solid. I'm not sure if this is likely to be a continous
dab (so to speak) or what. I'm thinking I can probably cut a groove
and embed a bit of ducting but am not sure how messy this will all
become.

Any hints, tips or suggestions would be very welcome.

Thanks,
Aardvark.


It is normal practice to have the light switch on the same side of the door
frame as the door handle if it is on the other side it will always feel
wrong

Unless there is a compelling reason to do it don't bother

Tony

On Mon, 27 Aug 2007 13:33:48 -0700 someone who may be AA
wrote this:-

I'm thinking of getting access to the existing wires through a hole
near the ceiling and routing them above the lintel and dropping them
down the other side.

Make sure the horizontal run is within 150mm of the ceiling and the
drop from there to the switch is vertical. If not your cable run is
outside the acceptable zones.


--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

On Aug 27, 10:35 pm, "TMC" wrote:

It is normal practice to have the light switch on the same side of the door
frame as the door handle if it is on the other side it will always feel
wrong

Unless there is a compelling reason to do it don't bother

My compelling reason is that I plan to reverse the door since it opens
into the middle of the kitchen instead of the obvious empty redundant
space on the other side. It also clashes with the fridge door (the
fridge being in the intended space) . With the door reversed the
kitchen seems to double in size. Obvious solution is to keep the door
closed but in a busy house with busy kids it isn't that practical.

On Aug 28, 7:54 am, David Hansen
wrote:
On Mon, 27 Aug 2007 13:33:48 -0700 someone who may be AA
wrote this:-

I'm thinking of getting access to the existing wires through a hole
near the ceiling and routing them above the lintel and dropping them
down the other side.

Make sure the horizontal run is within 150mm of the ceiling and the
drop from there to the switch is vertical. If not your cable run is
outside the acceptable zones.

That was the other question I didn't ask. I wasn't sure about the
acceptability of (or regulations concerning) wiring horizontally above
the door. 150mm will be just below the coving. I did ponder removing
the coving and wiring (embedded in the plaster) behind the coving. The
coving might cover the mess but I might make a mess removing and
replacing the coving! That has me thinking, I might be able to push
get access to the ceiling space behind the coving and feed the wires
using some piano wire or something.....

In message . com, AA
writes
On Aug 28, 7:54 am, David Hansen
wrote:
On Mon, 27 Aug 2007 13:33:48 -0700 someone who may be AA
wrote this:-

I'm thinking of getting access to the existing wires through a hole
near the ceiling and routing them above the lintel and dropping them
down the other side.

Make sure the horizontal run is within 150mm of the ceiling and the
drop from there to the switch is vertical. If not your cable run is
outside the acceptable zones.

That was the other question I didn't ask. I wasn't sure about the
acceptability of (or regulations concerning) wiring horizontally above
the door. 150mm will be just below the coving. I did ponder removing
the coving and wiring (embedded in the plaster) behind the coving. The
coving might cover the mess but I might make a mess removing and
replacing the coving! That has me thinking, I might be able to push
get access to the ceiling space behind the coving and feed the wires
using some piano wire or something.....

Personally, I would (and have done in similar situations) surface mount
the wiring in plastic trunking, which pretty neat is pretty neat, and
if painted the same as the wall not to noticeable.

Whne I came to decorate the room again, I would then hide the wire.
--
Chris French