currently i have a free standing all in one cooker (oven/hob/grill) and im
replacing this with 2 seperate units, hob and built under oven, now both
these need there own power supply ... however ...

can i just take a spur off the current cooker switch on the wall and put an
ordinary plug down behind the cabinet for the oven and use the existing
outlet (from the switch) to power the hob

would this be ok, and also is there a need/regulation that says i must have
this big bloody red switch on the wall that says cooker

SandMan112 wrote:

currently i have a free standing all in one cooker (oven/hob/grill) and im
replacing this with 2 seperate units, hob and built under oven, now both
these need there own power supply ... however ...

can i just take a spur off the current cooker switch on the wall and put an
ordinary plug down behind the cabinet for the oven and use the existing
outlet (from the switch) to power the hob

What are the power ratings for both on full power?
If the load is likely to exceed the circuits limit, then you'll have to
put in another feed for one of the units.

would this be ok, and also is there a need/regulation that says i must have
this big bloody red switch on the wall that says cooker

(I am not a sparky). If the supply wire meets the likely peak power
demand, then I'd go along the lines of getting rid of the big isolater,
and getting a 2 gang isolator, one for each of the appliances.
You'll need to check with a sparky first before commencing with it if
you are DIYing, and I beleive this is one of the things that should now
be done by a qualified electrician, TICBW.
Alan.

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On Fri, 29 Jun 2007 20:01:17 GMT, "SandMan112"
mused:

currently i have a free standing all in one cooker (oven/hob/grill) and im
replacing this with 2 seperate units, hob and built under oven, now both
these need there own power supply ... however ...

can i just take a spur off the current cooker switch on the wall and put an
ordinary plug

Socket. Plugs are what go on the end of appliance leads.

down behind the cabinet for the oven and use the existing
outlet (from the switch) to power the hob

Sounds a hard work way of doing it. Depending on the power of your
equipment the following scenario may not work, but usually you will
have a 3kW hob and 3kW hob. You will have to ensure that the total
load does not exceed the cooker circuits maximum current.

I usually connect a single cable from the switch to the hob and have a
switched spur in the middle for the oven, located behind the oven
itself.

would this be ok, and also is there a need/regulation that says i must have
this big bloody red switch on the wall that says cooker

Sort of. You need the big isolator within a reasonable distance of the
appliances. This reasonable distance could be in the cupboard next to
the cooker\oven\hob and readily accessible (i.e. not at the back
behind all the crockery).
--
Regards,
Stuart.

I usually connect a single cable from the switch to the hob and have a
switched spur in the middle for the oven, located behind the oven
itself.



yeah went with that myself ... had to run a cable from a neerby socket which
is what i was trying to avoid, but its in now ho hum

thank for the help

On 29 Jun, 23:03, "SandMan112"
wrote:
I usually connect a single cable from the switch to the hob and have a
switched spur in the middle for the oven, located behind the oven
itself.

yeah went with that myself ... had to run a cable from a neerby socket which
is what i was trying to avoid, but its in now ho hum

thank for the help

I think Lurch was suggesting you could have run the spur off the cable
that is feeding the hob from the load side of the cooker switch.

Lurch, can you tell us precisely how you would normally wire this?
Given that the Switch to hob cable would probably be at least 6mm, I
can't see you getting two of these plus say a 2.5mm into a standard
fused spur unit, would you use an additional accessory, or what?

On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 08:20:10 -0700,
mused:

On 29 Jun, 23:03, "SandMan112"
wrote:
I usually connect a single cable from the switch to the hob and have a
switched spur in the middle for the oven, located behind the oven
itself.

yeah went with that myself ... had to run a cable from a neerby socket which
is what i was trying to avoid, but its in now ho hum

thank for the help

I think Lurch was suggesting you could have run the spur off the cable
that is feeding the hob from the load side of the cooker switch.

Lurch, can you tell us precisely how you would normally wire this?
Given that the Switch to hob cable would probably be at least 6mm, I
can't see you getting two of these plus say a 2.5mm into a standard
fused spur unit, would you use an additional accessory, or what?

You can get 2 6mm teins into a switched spur, and usually you'd have
the outlet as the flex from the oven as it will be behind it.

I know I can do it because I have been sticking wires in boxes day in
day out for years, I've seen DIY jobs where it looks like they've
struggled with 2 2.5mm cables in a double box so YMMV.
--
Regards,
Stuart.

On 2 Jul, 23:32, Lurch wrote:
On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 08:20:10 -0700,
mused:





On 29 Jun, 23:03, "SandMan112"
wrote:
I usually connect a single cable from the switch to the hob and have a
switched spur in the middle for the oven, located behind the oven
itself.

yeah went with that myself ... had to run a cable from a neerby socket which
is what i was trying to avoid, but its in now ho hum

thank for the help

I think Lurch was suggesting you could have run the spur off the cable
that is feeding the hob from the load side of the cooker switch.

Lurch, can you tell us precisely how you would normally wire this?
Given that the Switch to hob cable would probably be at least 6mm, I
can't see you getting two of these plus say a 2.5mm into a standard
fused spur unit, would you use an additional accessory, or what?

You can get 2 6mm teins into a switched spur, and usually you'd have
the outlet as the flex from the oven as it will be behind it.

I know I can do it because I have been sticking wires in boxes day in
day out for years, I've seen DIY jobs where it looks like they've
struggled with 2 2.5mm cables in a double box so YMMV.

Well, MMDV (My Mileage Did Vary). I had a 6mm cable T&E cable going
from the switch to the hob, and the flex from the oven was connected
in parallel at the hob connection. I didn't like the look of that, so
I cut the 6mm and fitted a 30A juction box and then ran a switched
fused unit from that on a short length of 2.5mm T&E and put the oven
flex in there.
Since the hob and oven have both been replaced by beefier units, I
have taken away the Switched Fused Outlet and just tucked the flexes
from the Hob and the Oven into the juntion box.

I presume where you use a just a Switched Fused Outlet (That is what
you mean by Switched Spur is it?) you use a deep pattress or back
box?

Also, when you talk of "6mm" teins above, is that a technical term,
i've not come accross, or a typo?

I'm not nit picking or being funny here by the way, re-reading my
question i can see how it might have been taken wrong,

On Tue, 03 Jul 2007 03:03:18 -0700,
mused:

I usually connect a single cable from the switch to the hob and have a
switched spur in the middle for the oven, located behind the oven
itself.

yeah went with that myself ... had to run a cable from a neerby socket which
is what i was trying to avoid, but its in now ho hum

thank for the help

I think Lurch was suggesting you could have run the spur off the cable
that is feeding the hob from the load side of the cooker switch.

Lurch, can you tell us precisely how you would normally wire this?
Given that the Switch to hob cable would probably be at least 6mm, I
can't see you getting two of these plus say a 2.5mm into a standard
fused spur unit, would you use an additional accessory, or what?

You can get 2 6mm teins into a switched spur, and usually you'd have
the outlet as the flex from the oven as it will be behind it.

I know I can do it because I have been sticking wires in boxes day in
day out for years, I've seen DIY jobs where it looks like they've
struggled with 2 2.5mm cables in a double box so YMMV.

Well, MMDV (My Mileage Did Vary). I had a 6mm cable T&E cable going
from the switch to the hob, and the flex from the oven was connected
in parallel at the hob connection. I didn't like the look of that, so
I cut the 6mm and fitted a 30A juction box and then ran a switched
fused unit from that on a short length of 2.5mm T&E and put the oven
flex in there.

Sounds OK.

Since the hob and oven have both been replaced by beefier units, I
have taken away the Switched Fused Outlet and just tucked the flexes
from the Hob and the Oven into the juntion box.

Sounds a lot worse than both of your previous setups. The flexes
should be suitably fused somewhere along the line, and as you say you
now have beefire units i'd not be expecting you to wore them in flex
as most diyers wouldn't know where to find 6mm 3c flex.

I presume where you use a just a Switched Fused Outlet (That is what
you mean by Switched Spur is it?) you use a deep pattress or back
box?

Also, when you talk of "6mm" teins above, is that a technical term,
i've not come accross, or a typo?

teins = twins, as in twin and earth.

I'm not nit picking or being funny here by the way, re-reading my
question i can see how it might have been taken wrong,

Most of my posts are the same, makes it more fun!
--
Regards,
Stuart.

On 4 Jul, 00:05, Lurch wrote:

snip
Since the hob and oven have both been replaced by beefier units, I
have taken away the Switched Fused Outlet and just tucked the flexes
from the Hob and the Oven into the juntion box.

Sounds a lot worse than both of your previous setups. The flexes
should be suitably fused somewhere along the line, and as you say you
now have beefire units i'd not be expecting you to wore them in flex
as most diyers wouldn't know where to find 6mm 3c flex.

I found it attached (pre-wored?:-)) to the (new) Miele oven & hob.
I'm pretty sure the general consencus here at the time was that both
would be adequately protected by the existing 32A breaker, and also
given diversity, their combined load wouldn't overload it.

Actualy, I think it was a 30A rewireable upon first installation, I
subsequently had a new CU installed by a pro and he put in a 40A MCB
rather than my suggestion of a 32A. I think this was just to make
sure he could stay home and eat his Christmas lunch, rather than
getting a call out cause cooking mine with all the stops out might
have taken out the 32A.

I like your new word beefier for use with high wattage cooking
appliances, I wonder what the vegetarian equivalent would be?