A friend of mine just asked me if I could replace a faulty tap washer for
her. But when she described the problem I wasn't sure if it was simply the
washer that's to blame.

When she closes the tap, she meets resistance at the end of its travel, and
though the water slows it doesn't stop. But if she then tries to close the
tap even further, it passes the point of resistance and rotates freely
again, and the water flow returns to maximum.

Is the tap itself due for replacement, or is it in fact the washer?

Many thanks,

Bert

"Bert Coules" wrote in message
...
A friend of mine just asked me if I could replace a faulty tap washer for
her. But when she described the problem I wasn't sure if it was simply the
washer that's to blame.

When she closes the tap, she meets resistance at the end of its travel,
and though the water slows it doesn't stop. But if she then tries to
close the tap even further, it passes the point of resistance and rotates
freely again, and the water flow returns to maximum.

Is the tap itself due for replacement, or is it in fact the washer?

Many thanks,

Bert



Could be the washer - squashed flat so that the tap comes off the end of its
thread. Equally it could be something else.
Either way, if you take a new washer and investigate and ensure that
everything inside is clean and freely moving then you will probably find a
fix.
Phil

Phil B wrote:

Could be the washer - squashed flat so that the tap
comes off the end of its thread.

Thanks for that. I thought that the continuous rotation must definitely
mean something more serious.

Equally it could be something else.

Well, we'll see. Thanks.

Bert

Bert Coules wrote on 05/06/2007 :
A friend of mine just asked me if I could replace a faulty tap washer for
her. But when she described the problem I wasn't sure if it was simply the
washer that's to blame.

When she closes the tap, she meets resistance at the end of its travel, and
though the water slows it doesn't stop. But if she then tries to close the
tap even further, it passes the point of resistance and rotates freely again,
and the water flow returns to maximum.

Is the tap itself due for replacement, or is it in fact the washer?

If a new washer doesn't fix it, you can get tap refurbishment kits- two
complete tap innards (H+C) in a box with various adaptors to help make
'em fit. They are about £9 or so from the Plumb Centre.

--

Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

Harry Bloomfield wrote:

If a new washer doesn't fix it, you can get tap refurbishment kits- two
complete tap innards (H+C) in a box with various adaptors to help make 'em
fit. They are about £9 or so from the Plumb Centre.

That's well worth knowing. Many thanks.

Bert

Bert Coules wrote:
Harry Bloomfield wrote:

If a new washer doesn't fix it, you can get tap refurbishment kits-
two complete tap innards (H+C) in a box with various adaptors to
help make 'em fit. They are about £9 or so from the Plumb Centre.


Hi Bert :-)

There is a small brass clip on the top of the jumper assembly on many taps,
if it's come off it could cause that. The refurb kits are a good idea.


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

"Bert Coules" wrote in message
...
A friend of mine just asked me if I could replace a faulty tap washer for
her. But when she described the problem I wasn't sure if it was simply the
washer that's to blame.

When she closes the tap, she meets resistance at the end of its travel,
and though the water slows it doesn't stop. But if she then tries to
close the tap even further, it passes the point of resistance and rotates
freely again, and the water flow returns to maximum.

Is the tap itself due for replacement, or is it in fact the washer?

No idea, would just take it apart and investigate, BUT before you start
now is a good time to verify the location of and serviceability of all the
various stop-cocks. If the particular tap has its own isolation valve then
the task is easy. If not think about fitting one, that's assuming you can
turn the supply off.

Jim A

Jim Alexander wrote:

...now is a good time to verify the location of and serviceability of all
the various stop-cocks.

There's just one, across the incoming main - it's a middle-floor flat with a
combi boiler and no water tank. And there's no isolating valve to the
faulty tap (or any other tap, come to that).

Truth is, the entire installation could do with upgrading.

Bert

The Medway Handyman wrote:

Hi Bert :-)

Hi Dave.

There is a small brass clip on the top of the jumper assembly on many
taps, if it's come off it could cause that. The refurb kits are a good
idea.

Ah, thanks. Since my original post I've discovered that the tap is also
swivelling in its seating, so quite apart from the main fault there have
probably been all manner of stresses and strains on its mechanism, not to
mention its attendant pipework and connections.

As I've just said in another reply, the whole system really needs to be
replaced and upgraded - but a more immediate fix is obviously needed.

It's not in Medway, otherwise I'd recommend calling you in...

Bert