This is the last part of my workshop refurbishment ! The stonework is
undressed so the gap between the framework/weatherboarding and the
stone is up to an inch and has a howling draft coming through it at
the moment.

The solution I see is expanding foam but I'm not sure of the best way
to apply it. Options thought of so far -

1 From the outside but will it get all over the stonework?
2 Put a profiled board down the join on the outside and inject from
the inside, but then the foam will equally ooze onto the stonework as
the profile board won't be that accurate and also the foam will end up
in the profiled sections of the weatherboarding.
3 Pack the outside of the joint with newspaper and inject from the
inside, but then I wouldn't be able to get rid of the newspaper.

Any other suggestions please. I could have profiled the
weatherboarding as I fitted it but rejected that at the time as
unnecessary.

Thanks

Rob

robgraham wrote:
This is the last part of my workshop refurbishment ! The stonework is
undressed so the gap between the framework/weatherboarding and the
stone is up to an inch and has a howling draft coming through it at
the moment.

The solution I see is expanding foam but I'm not sure of the best way
to apply it. Options thought of so far -

1 From the outside but will it get all over the stonework?
2 Put a profiled board down the join on the outside and inject from
the inside, but then the foam will equally ooze onto the stonework as
the profile board won't be that accurate and also the foam will end up
in the profiled sections of the weatherboarding.
3 Pack the outside of the joint with newspaper and inject from the
inside, but then I wouldn't be able to get rid of the newspaper.

Any other suggestions please. I could have profiled the
weatherboarding as I fitted it but rejected that at the time as
unnecessary.

I take it the weatherboarding sits onto the stonework which steps out
wider than the woodwork then?

How about a tilt fillet, with a skirt:

Assuming the existing is like this:


/
/
/
/ --- Boarding on studwork
/
/
###
###
### --- Dwarf wall
###
###

Using some arris or capping of some description to sit on the outside
sill created where the wall sticks out, you can then have a skirt under
it to hide any gap:

/
/
/
/ --- Boarding on studwork
*
** --- section of arris rail tucked under last board
***
|###
Skirt -- |###
fixed to ### --- Dwarf wall
cover gap ###
###


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

robgraham wrote:
This is the last part of my workshop refurbishment ! The stonework is
undressed so the gap between the framework/weatherboarding and the
stone is up to an inch and has a howling draft coming through it at
the moment.

The solution I see is expanding foam but I'm not sure of the best way
to apply it. Options thought of so far -

1 From the outside but will it get all over the stonework?
2 Put a profiled board down the join on the outside and inject from
the inside, but then the foam will equally ooze onto the stonework as
the profile board won't be that accurate and also the foam will end up
in the profiled sections of the weatherboarding.
3 Pack the outside of the joint with newspaper and inject from the
inside, but then I wouldn't be able to get rid of the newspaper.

Any other suggestions please. I could have profiled the
weatherboarding as I fitted it but rejected that at the time as
unnecessary.

Thanks

Rob

Use duct tape to seal and mask and then inject foam.

It that doesn't stick you have a bit of a problem.

"robgraham" wrote in message
ups.com...
This is the last part of my workshop refurbishment ! The stonework is
undressed so the gap between the framework/weatherboarding and the
stone is up to an inch and has a howling draft coming through it at
the moment.

The solution I see is expanding foam but I'm not sure of the best way
to apply it. Options thought of so far -

1 From the outside but will it get all over the stonework?
2 Put a profiled board down the join on the outside and inject from
the inside, but then the foam will equally ooze onto the stonework as
the profile board won't be that accurate and also the foam will end up
in the profiled sections of the weatherboarding.
3 Pack the outside of the joint with newspaper and inject from the
inside, but then I wouldn't be able to get rid of the newspaper.

Any other suggestions please. I could have profiled the
weatherboarding as I fitted it but rejected that at the time as
unnecessary.

Thanks

Rob

Problem with foam is that it needs painting over to prevent it degrading

Possibly mask off the stone work depending on what tape you can get to stick
to it.
Inject expanding foam allow to cure paint over then remove masking

or

Profile board on the outside brown frame sealant between board edge and
stonework to close any remaining gaps

Repeat on inside for extra draughtproofing

or

Profile board (to prevent mortar falling through) on inside mortar the gap
from outside to match stonework mortar

Tony

robgraham wrote:
This is the last part of my workshop refurbishment ! The stonework is
undressed so the gap between the framework/weatherboarding and the
stone is up to an inch and has a howling draft coming through it at
the moment.

The solution I see is expanding foam but I'm not sure of the best way
to apply it. Options thought of so far -

1 From the outside but will it get all over the stonework?
2 Put a profiled board down the join on the outside and inject from
the inside, but then the foam will equally ooze onto the stonework as
the profile board won't be that accurate and also the foam will end up
in the profiled sections of the weatherboarding.
3 Pack the outside of the joint with newspaper and inject from the
inside, but then I wouldn't be able to get rid of the newspaper.

Any other suggestions please. I could have profiled the
weatherboarding as I fitted it but rejected that at the time as
unnecessary.

Thanks

Rob


Can't quite visualise the overall picture but I think I might go for
option 3, perhaps greasing the newspaper to act as a release agent. Foam
pipe insulation is quite handy for blocking up odd shaped gaps.
I suppose vermiculite is out of the question. Would probably be a good
deal cheaper

On 2007-05-30 13:22:54 +0100, The Natural Philosopher said:

robgraham wrote:
This is the last part of my workshop refurbishment ! The stonework is
undressed so the gap between the framework/weatherboarding and the
stone is up to an inch and has a howling draft coming through it at
the moment.

The solution I see is expanding foam but I'm not sure of the best way
to apply it. Options thought of so far -

1 From the outside but will it get all over the stonework?
2 Put a profiled board down the join on the outside and inject from
the inside, but then the foam will equally ooze onto the stonework as
the profile board won't be that accurate and also the foam will end up
in the profiled sections of the weatherboarding.
3 Pack the outside of the joint with newspaper and inject from the
inside, but then I wouldn't be able to get rid of the newspaper.

Any other suggestions please. I could have profiled the
weatherboarding as I fitted it but rejected that at the time as
unnecessary.

Thanks

Rob

Use duct tape to seal and mask and then inject foam.

It that doesn't stick you have a bit of a problem.

This does work (I've done it), but it's a good idea to spray the area
first with water e.g. from a plant sprayer and to inject the foam a
little at a time. Since it expands and cures in the presence of
moisture, one can get a better idea of how much expansion will take
place sooner. Otherwise, it can go on expanding for several hours if
the surfaces and the air are dry - not a problem this week :-) This
application isn't to fix anything or to be particularly structural so
it's possible to put in foam a little at a time.

With over enthusiasm, it is easily possible to have Peter Parry's
Sorceror's Apprentice canoe syndrome and expnading foam is more than
able to lift duct tape from a surface.

The other thing is that PU foam does tend to deteriorate in sunlight so
a good idea to cover the exterior somehow.

On 30 May, 13:21, John Rumm wrote:
robgraham wrote:
This is the last part of my workshop refurbishment ! The stonework is
undressed so the gap between the framework/weatherboarding and the
stone is up to an inch and has a howling draft coming through it at
the moment.

The solution I see is expanding foam but I'm not sure of the best way
to apply it. Options thought of so far -

1 From the outside but will it get all over the stonework?
2 Put a profiled board down the join on the outside and inject from
the inside, but then the foam will equally ooze onto the stonework as
the profile board won't be that accurate and also the foam will end up
in the profiled sections of the weatherboarding.
3 Pack the outside of the joint with newspaper and inject from the
inside, but then I wouldn't be able to get rid of the newspaper.

Any other suggestions please. I could have profiled the
weatherboarding as I fitted it but rejected that at the time as
unnecessary.

I take it the weatherboarding sits onto the stonework which steps out
wider than the woodwork then?

How about a tilt fillet, with a skirt:

Assuming the existing is like this:

/
/
/
/ --- Boarding on studwork
/
/
###
###
### --- Dwarf wall
###
###

Using some arris or capping of some description to sit on the outside
sill created where the wall sticks out, you can then have a skirt under
it to hide any gap:

/
/
/
/ --- Boarding on studwork
*
** --- section of arris rail tucked under last board
***
|###
Skirt -- |###
fixed to ### --- Dwarf wall
cover gap ###
###

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Sorry John and others - not really a clear description although
several good ideas have come forward. The stonework is the wall of
the house and the workshop is attached to it, so the problem area is
the vertical interface between the rough stonework and the timber
framing. I can't remember how the gaps were sealed previously - I
suspect not though there was a profiled cover.

Rob

robgraham wrote:
On 30 May, 13:21, John Rumm wrote:
robgraham wrote:
This is the last part of my workshop refurbishment ! The stonework is
undressed so the gap between the framework/weatherboarding and the
stone is up to an inch and has a howling draft coming through it at
the moment.
The solution I see is expanding foam but I'm not sure of the best way
to apply it. Options thought of so far -
1 From the outside but will it get all over the stonework?
2 Put a profiled board down the join on the outside and inject from
the inside, but then the foam will equally ooze onto the stonework as
the profile board won't be that accurate and also the foam will end up
in the profiled sections of the weatherboarding.
3 Pack the outside of the joint with newspaper and inject from the
inside, but then I wouldn't be able to get rid of the newspaper.
Any other suggestions please. I could have profiled the
weatherboarding as I fitted it but rejected that at the time as
unnecessary.
I take it the weatherboarding sits onto the stonework which steps out
wider than the woodwork then?

How about a tilt fillet, with a skirt:

Assuming the existing is like this:

/
/
/
/ --- Boarding on studwork
/
/
###
###
### --- Dwarf wall
###
###

Using some arris or capping of some description to sit on the outside
sill created where the wall sticks out, you can then have a skirt under
it to hide any gap:

/
/
/
/ --- Boarding on studwork
*
** --- section of arris rail tucked under last board
***
|###
Skirt -- |###
fixed to ### --- Dwarf wall
cover gap ###
###

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Sorry John and others - not really a clear description although
several good ideas have come forward. The stonework is the wall of
the house and the workshop is attached to it, so the problem area is
the vertical interface between the rough stonework and the timber
framing. I can't remember how the gaps were sealed previously - I
suspect not though there was a profiled cover.


Typically that might be lead folded behind the boards and then pointed
into the stonework.

Rob

robgraham wrote:

Sorry John and others - not really a clear description although
several good ideas have come forward. The stonework is the wall of
the house and the workshop is attached to it, so the problem area is
the vertical interface between the rough stonework and the timber
framing. I can't remember how the gaps were sealed previously - I
suspect not though there was a profiled cover.

Ah, ok, different problem then. I take it you don't want to damage the
stone? (otherwise cutting a slot with an angle grinder such that you
could dress some lead flashing into the stone could work. Failing that
its a case of filling or caulking it with something. Gaffer tape barrier
and mortar might be ok. If you ever needed to remove it it should knock
off the stone without doing any damage.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 30 May, 13:48, Stuart Noble
wrote:
robgraham wrote:
This is the last part of my workshop refurbishment ! The stonework is
undressed so the gap between the framework/weatherboarding and the
stone is up to an inch and has a howling draft coming through it at
the moment.

The solution I see is expanding foam but I'm not sure of the best way
to apply it. Options thought of so far -

1 From the outside but will it get all over the stonework?
2 Put a profiled board down the join on the outside and inject from
the inside, but then the foam will equally ooze onto the stonework as
the profile board won't be that accurate and also the foam will end up
in the profiled sections of the weatherboarding.
3 Pack the outside of the joint with newspaper and inject from the
inside, but then I wouldn't be able to get rid of the newspaper.

Any other suggestions please. I could have profiled the
weatherboarding as I fitted it but rejected that at the time as
unnecessary.

Thanks

Rob

Can't quite visualise the overall picture but I think I might go for
option 3, perhaps greasing the newspaper to act as a release agent. Foam
pipe insulation is quite handy for blocking up odd shaped gaps.
I suppose vermiculite is out of the question. Would probably be a good
deal cheaper

OK guys very many thanks - job done. My concern was the foam getting
onto the visible stonework outside the workshop. I masked off the
stone at that point with duck tape - stuck nicely; put on a board
profiled to the stone and injected from the inside. In the end none
of the foam came through (70mm timbers), but the join is sealed and
draught tight. I can seal the outside with brown gunge.

One earlier problem I did find a solution to was attaching
weatherboarding to concrete blockwork. I realised screwing it on was
the attachment method but I was concerned about the wood being in
contact with the blocks and that an air gap was desirable. I ended up
buying a bag of those plastic shims from Screwfix and stapling them
every so often along the inside of the weatherboard plank, and then
screwing it on.

Rob

robgraham wrote:
On 30 May, 13:48, Stuart Noble
wrote:
robgraham wrote:
This is the last part of my workshop refurbishment ! The stonework is
undressed so the gap between the framework/weatherboarding and the
stone is up to an inch and has a howling draft coming through it at
the moment.
The solution I see is expanding foam but I'm not sure of the best way
to apply it. Options thought of so far -
1 From the outside but will it get all over the stonework?
2 Put a profiled board down the join on the outside and inject from
the inside, but then the foam will equally ooze onto the stonework as
the profile board won't be that accurate and also the foam will end up
in the profiled sections of the weatherboarding.
3 Pack the outside of the joint with newspaper and inject from the
inside, but then I wouldn't be able to get rid of the newspaper.
Any other suggestions please. I could have profiled the
weatherboarding as I fitted it but rejected that at the time as
unnecessary.
Thanks
Rob
Can't quite visualise the overall picture but I think I might go for
option 3, perhaps greasing the newspaper to act as a release agent. Foam
pipe insulation is quite handy for blocking up odd shaped gaps.
I suppose vermiculite is out of the question. Would probably be a good
deal cheaper

OK guys very many thanks - job done. My concern was the foam getting
onto the visible stonework outside the workshop. I masked off the
stone at that point with duck tape - stuck nicely; put on a board
profiled to the stone and injected from the inside. In the end none
of the foam came through (70mm timbers), but the join is sealed and
draught tight. I can seal the outside with brown gunge.

its nice to know when an educated guess actually WORKS :-)

One earlier problem I did find a solution to was attaching
weatherboarding to concrete blockwork. I realised screwing it on was
the attachment method but I was concerned about the wood being in
contact with the blocks and that an air gap was desirable. I ended up
buying a bag of those plastic shims from Screwfix and stapling them
every so often along the inside of the weatherboard plank, and then
screwing it on.

that's also a neat one.

Rob