I have an option to buy a JCBD-TS table saw that looks hardly used for £90.
I want to use it for cross cutting cross-halving joints in mahogany door
frame timbers.

This a good low budget choice for this work?

Thanks for any advice.

Arthur
================================================
SPEC.
Model number JCBD-TS

Rated voltage 230VAC - 50hz

Input power 1800 watts

No load speed 4500 RPM

Depth of cut - at 900 75 mm

- at 450 53 mm

Bevel cutting 0 - 450

Mitre cutting 0 - 600

Table dimensions 640 mm x 486 mm

Riving knife thickness 2 mm

Blade dimensions 254 mm diameter

tungsten carbide tipped

36 teeth

30 mm bore

2.8 mm blade width

Noise emission data

A - weighted sound pressure level Lp 92.7 dB (A)

A - weighted sound power level Lw 108 dB (A)

FEATURES

Parallel fence guide Adjustable mitre gauge

Dust extraction facility Safety overload cut out

I have a JCB table saw .... been using it for a couple of years - great
value tool .... buy good blades and it will last for years.


"Arthur" wrote in message
...
I have an option to buy a JCBD-TS table saw that looks hardly used for £90.
I want to use it for cross cutting cross-halving joints in mahogany door
frame timbers.

This a good low budget choice for this work?

Thanks for any advice.

Arthur
================================================
SPEC.
Model number JCBD-TS

Rated voltage 230VAC - 50hz

Input power 1800 watts

No load speed 4500 RPM

Depth of cut - at 900 75 mm

- at 450 53 mm

Bevel cutting 0 - 450

Mitre cutting 0 - 600

Table dimensions 640 mm x 486 mm

Riving knife thickness 2 mm

Blade dimensions 254 mm diameter

tungsten carbide tipped

36 teeth

30 mm bore

2.8 mm blade width

Noise emission data

A - weighted sound pressure level Lp 92.7 dB (A)

A - weighted sound power level Lw 108 dB (A)

FEATURES

Parallel fence guide Adjustable mitre gauge

Dust extraction facility Safety overload cut out

Arthur wrote:

I have an option to buy a JCBD-TS table saw that looks hardly used for £90.
I want to use it for cross cutting cross-halving joints in mahogany door
frame timbers.

This a good low budget choice for this work?

Something that has (or can be upgraded to) a real cross cut sledge will
make all the difference for accurate cross cut work. For rip cuts then
the fence has a big part to play, so make sure that is good, and has a
way of ensuring that it remains parallel to the blade. Axminster do a
fence upgrade that will fit many budget saws and make them miles better
(with a decent blade).

--
Cheers,

John.

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AIUI the OP wants to cut the shoulders on the housings into the heads
and sills of door frames (a few or lots?) for horned door frames. So a
cross-cutting, deep cut (i.e. the blade doesn't come right through).

Two problems, the crown guard and riving knife must be removed (which
is a bit of a safety issue, not permitted in the workplace under H&S
law - but do what you want at home) and second - I'm guessing you
would be cross-cutting a heavy-ish peice of timber about a metre long,
close to one end - as John says, that will be hard to keep parallel
without a dedicated sliding table.

Best way to do it would be a sliding mitre saw with depth stop
facility - quick and repeatable - but those tools are expensive.
Cheaper methods would be a router and make a suitable jig (slow but
neat results), handheld circular saw and suitable jig (fast and
reasonable results) or handsawing (as good as your skills).

Were you planning to make lots of kerf cuts and then hand chisel out?

wrote:

Best way to do it would be a sliding mitre saw with depth stop
facility - quick and repeatable - but those tools are expensive.

I just had a top of the range 12" Makita SCMS off eBay for £190 ;-)



--
Cheers,

John.

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| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

I just had a top of the range 12" Makita SCMS off eBay for £190 ;-)

*******!!!

I just paid rather more than for the 12" Bosch. Though they did chuck
in a couple of quality spare blades and an absolutely useless stand
(so I hustled at the builders merchants and got a few quid off the ex-
display bosch stand).

I was umming between the Dewalt DW718, Bosch GCM12SD and the Mak -
what's your impression of the plusses and minuses of it?

Bosch - heavy and awkward to move around, slide not quite as rigid as
my old DW700, blade guard is a contraption, blade change awkward
(because of the guard) - but all adjustments brilliantly solid and
easy to use, everything well thought out (apart from the guard) and it
produces first class cuts, nice material stop, nice material clamp,
easy to set back support clearances when blade angles are weird
(problem on my old DW), blade halts very quickly, huge capacity.

wrote:

I just had a top of the range 12" Makita SCMS off eBay for £190 ;-)

*******!!!

I just paid rather more than for the 12" Bosch. Though they did chuck
in a couple of quality spare blades and an absolutely useless stand
(so I hustled at the builders merchants and got a few quid off the ex-
display bosch stand).

To be fair I need to buy it a couple of minor accessories that were
missing (dust bag etc)...

Its this one:

http://www.makitauk.com/index.php?sp...209&cat id=55

(I would have been happy with the smaller LS1013, but this one happened
to be there when I was looking)

I was umming between the Dewalt DW718, Bosch GCM12SD and the Mak -
what's your impression of the plusses and minuses of it?

Well, not having had it long (or for that matter done much serious work
with it), I can only give first impressions:

Big and heavy, although they have fitted a carry handle on top at about
the centre of gravity which makes it luggable, but not easy (although
not as bad as my thicknesser!).

Rigidity is absolutely first rate. Applying force to the edge of the
blade at full slide extent will only get movement from the blade
bending, there is no slack in the mechanism at all. Cuts smooth and
quite. Blade stop is fairly rapid (faster than my old non braked 8" chop
saw). Have not tried changing the blade yet so won't comment on that.

Controls all work very well, table position slews round really nicely
and very accurate pre-set stop positions. It tilts in both directions
(more on one side than the other) with a sprung counter balance to help
return it to upright (where there is a preset stop). The motor housing
is raked at an angle to keep it out of the way.

(Now I have just got to work out where to store it in the workshop,
because the middle of the floor is getting right on my tits!)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/