Hi all, I have bought an MK 45amp/13amp cooker switch (with the 13amp
socket) and was wondering if I needed 2 mains feeds to feed this
socket.

The socket has 2 live and 2 neutral connections on the back, but I
only have the cooker ring main coming from the wall. Can I use this to
connect to the 13amp as well?

Regards,

Toby.

On 18 May 2007 07:25:05 -0700 someone who may be mkkbb
wrote this:-

Hi all, I have bought an MK 45amp/13amp cooker switch (with the 13amp
socket) and was wondering if I needed 2 mains feeds to feed this
socket.

No.

The socket has 2 live and 2 neutral connections on the back, but I
only have the cooker ring main coming from the wall.

I doubt very much if you have a cooker ring main coming from the
wall.

Can I use this to connect to the 13amp as well?

If you look at the terminals you will undoubtedly see that one set
are marked with some words like SUPPLY and one set are marked with
LOAD, or something similar.

If it is not clear to you what these two sets of terminals are for
then you are not competent to fit the unit.


--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

mkkbb wrote:

Hi all, I have bought an MK 45amp/13amp cooker switch (with the 13amp
socket) and was wondering if I needed 2 mains feeds to feed this
socket.

No, one feed - it will need to be a dedicated radial circuit from the
consumer unit.

The socket has 2 live and 2 neutral connections on the back, but I
only have the cooker ring main coming from the wall. Can I use this to
connect to the 13amp as well?

The socket is connected internally in the fitting. You should have L & N
in, and L & N out for the cooker.

Before you go too far you need to assess if the cable (and circuit
breaker) you have is suitable for the cooker in question.

--
Cheers,

John.

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In article .com,
mkkbb wrote:
Hi all, I have bought an MK 45amp/13amp cooker switch (with the 13amp
socket) and was wondering if I needed 2 mains feeds to feed this
socket.

The socket has 2 live and 2 neutral connections on the back, but I
only have the cooker ring main coming from the wall. Can I use this to
connect to the 13amp as well?

First there's no such thing as a 'cooker ring main'. If it is a ring with
two 2.5mm TW&E cables it's not suitable for a cooker switch.

This type of switch is designed for a radial circuit - only one TW&E cable
feeding it, rather than a ring which has two. It also uses heavier gauge
cable - usually 6 or 10mm.

The 13 amp socket is internally connected to the same circuit.

--
*A nest isn't empty until all their stuff is out of the attic

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 18/05/2007 16:40 David Hansen wrote:

If you look at the terminals you will undoubtedly see that one set
are marked with some words like SUPPLY and one set are marked with
LOAD, or something similar.

The connection from the switch to the cooker: is it cable or flex (can
you get 6mm flex?)?

I've got a built-in cooker to attach in the near future.

--
Frank
(Beware of spam trap - remove the negative)

On Sun, 20 May 2007 21:25:15 +0100, F mused:

On 18/05/2007 16:40 David Hansen wrote:

If you look at the terminals you will undoubtedly see that one set
are marked with some words like SUPPLY and one set are marked with
LOAD, or something similar.

The connection from the switch to the cooker: is it cable or flex

Who are you asking?

(can you get 6mm flex?)?

Yep.
--
Regards,
Stuart.

In article ,
F writes:
On 18/05/2007 16:40 David Hansen wrote:

If you look at the terminals you will undoubtedly see that one set
are marked with some words like SUPPLY and one set are marked with
LOAD, or something similar.

The connection from the switch to the cooker: is it cable or flex (can
you get 6mm flex?)?

If the cooker is movable, it should be flex, but in
practice it never is.

I've got a built-in cooker to attach in the near future.

If it's built-in, T&E is fine.

The connections to a cooker need to be of very high quality,
or they will overheat and might start a fire.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 20/05/2007 22:15 Andrew Gabriel wrote:

If the cooker is movable, it should be flex, but in
practice it never is.

If it's built-in, T&E is fine.

It's built-in and so should only need to be moved once - when it's
installed.

T&E it is then: thanks.

--
Frank
(Beware of spam trap - remove the negative)

On 18 May, 16:40, David Hansen
wrote:

If you look at the terminals you will undoubtedly see that one set
are marked with some words like SUPPLY and one set are marked with
LOAD, or something similar.

If it is not clear to you what these two sets of terminals are for
then you are not competent to fit the unit.

[embarrased] I am competent at wiring, just never wired a cooker
switch before, and it'll teach me to try to second guess the terminals
looking at it through the packaging. I couldn't see the LOAD and
SUPPLY written on the back, but now I have opened it it is much
clearer.

Thanks for your replies anyway ;-)

On 22 May 2007 04:05:06 -0700 someone who may be mkkbb
wrote this:-

I couldn't see the LOAD and
SUPPLY written on the back, but now I have opened it it is much
clearer.

I am surprised that there is no marking on an MK unit. They are
usually very good at marking terminals. Certainly their other
switches, for example in switched fused connection units, have all
terminals marked.


--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54