[4square]

Am about to fix parana pine window board to kitchen, 1.8m long by
225mm deep. Is it OK to secure it with no-nails, or similar, to the
screed where the old tiles were fixed? It will not be rebated into
the wall as in new build, or fixed to the window frame, although
will be tiles down to it at both ends.
In addition, at either end where there is a 50mm return in front of
the wall, is it advisable to allow 8mm or so clearance behind these
to slide tiles behind the wood, or cut the wood flush with the wall,
and cut tiles to fit round the bullnose ends?
Any advice much appreciated.

[Andy Hall]

On 2007-04-29 07:59:37 +0100, 4square said:

Am about to fix parana pine window board to kitchen, 1.8m long by
225mm deep. Is it OK to secure it with no-nails, or similar, to the
screed where the old tiles were fixed?

You could. A better solution would be to drill and counterbore fixing
holes then screw the board to the reveal. Then cut wooden plugs to
fill the holes, cut and sand smooth.


It will not be rebated into
the wall as in new build, or fixed to the window frame, although
will be tiles down to it at both ends.
In addition, at either end where there is a 50mm return in front of
the wall, is it advisable to allow 8mm or so clearance behind these
to slide tiles behind the wood, or cut the wood flush with the wall,
and cut tiles to fit round the bullnose ends?
Any advice much appreciated.

You can do either. With this amount of projection it doesn't matter,
although it is a lot of projection of the board......

Are you sure it's in proportion.?

[Stuart Noble]

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-29 07:59:37 +0100, 4square said:

Am about to fix parana pine window board to kitchen, 1.8m long by
225mm deep. Is it OK to secure it with no-nails, or similar, to the
screed where the old tiles were fixed?

You could. A better solution would be to drill and counterbore fixing
holes then screw the board to the reveal. Then cut wooden plugs to
fill the holes, cut and sand smooth.

Yeah, a dozen 6" x 14 screws should hold it.


It will not be rebated into
the wall as in new build, or fixed to the window frame, although
will be tiles down to it at both ends.
In addition, at either end where there is a 50mm return in front of
the wall, is it advisable to allow 8mm or so clearance behind these
to slide tiles behind the wood, or cut the wood flush with the wall,
and cut tiles to fit round the bullnose ends?
Any advice much appreciated.

You can do either. With this amount of projection it doesn't matter,
although it is a lot of projection of the board......

Are you sure it's in proportion.?

[4square]

On Apr 29, 8:24 am, Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-29 07:59:37 +0100, 4square said:

Am about to fix parana pine window board to kitchen, 1.8m long by
225mm deep. Is it OK to secure it with no-nails, or similar, to the
screed where the old tiles were fixed?

You could. A better solution would be to drill and counterbore fixing
holes then screw the board to the reveal. Then cut wooden plugs to
fill the holes, cut and sand smooth.

It will not be rebated into
the wall as in new build, or fixed to the window frame, although
will be tiles down to it at both ends.
In addition, at either end where there is a 50mm return in front of
the wall, is it advisable to allow 8mm or so clearance behind these
to slide tiles behind the wood, or cut the wood flush with the wall,
and cut tiles to fit round the bullnose ends?
Any advice much appreciated.

You can do either. With this amount of projection it doesn't matter,
although it is a lot of projection of the board......

Are you sure it's in proportion.?

My error, what I meant was, the board will extend 50mm each side
beyond the window opening, and overhang forwards over the wall about
25mm along its length, which is about normal I think. I reckon I
will use no-nails, hopefully the board wont warp.

[Stuart Noble]

4square wrote:
On Apr 29, 8:24 am, Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-29 07:59:37 +0100, 4square said:

Am about to fix parana pine window board to kitchen, 1.8m long by
225mm deep. Is it OK to secure it with no-nails, or similar, to the
screed where the old tiles were fixed?
You could. A better solution would be to drill and counterbore fixing
holes then screw the board to the reveal. Then cut wooden plugs to
fill the holes, cut and sand smooth.

It will not be rebated into
the wall as in new build, or fixed to the window frame, although
will be tiles down to it at both ends.
In addition, at either end where there is a 50mm return in front of
the wall, is it advisable to allow 8mm or so clearance behind these
to slide tiles behind the wood, or cut the wood flush with the wall,
and cut tiles to fit round the bullnose ends?
Any advice much appreciated.
You can do either. With this amount of projection it doesn't matter,
although it is a lot of projection of the board......

Are you sure it's in proportion.?

My error, what I meant was, the board will extend 50mm each side
beyond the window opening, and overhang forwards over the wall about
25mm along its length, which is about normal I think. I reckon I
will use no-nails, hopefully the board wont warp.


Parana is known for its stability, hence the price, and the availability
in wide sections.
I'd cut it flush with the wall at either end, fix it with NMN or
similar, and tile down to it. I wouldn't have the overhang at the front
either. It gives you extra space, but can be more trouble than it's
worth if you have a sink under the window.

[Roger Mills]

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Stuart Noble wrote:


Yeah, a dozen 6" x 14 screws should hold it.


Don't you think that 10mm dia carriage screws would be better? g
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

[Andy Hall]

On 2007-04-29 10:54:23 +0100, Stuart Noble
said:

Andy Hall wrote:

You could. A better solution would be to drill and counterbore fixing
holes then screw the board to the reveal. Then cut wooden plugs to
fill the holes, cut and sand smooth.

Yeah, a dozen 6" x 14 screws should hold it.

Don't be silly. This is simply a suggestion for doing the job properly
as well as making the board removable without damage later.

[Andy Hall]

On 2007-04-29 11:09:57 +0100, 4square said:

On Apr 29, 8:24 am, Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-29 07:59:37 +0100, 4square said:

Am about to fix parana pine window board to kitchen, 1.8m long by
225mm deep. Is it OK to secure it with no-nails, or similar, to the
screed where the old tiles were fixed?

You could. A better solution would be to drill and counterbore fixing
holes then screw the board to the reveal. Then cut wooden plugs to
fill the holes, cut and sand smooth.

It will not be rebated into
the wall as in new build, or fixed to the window frame, although
will be tiles down to it at both ends.
In addition, at either end where there is a 50mm return in front of
the wall, is it advisable to allow 8mm or so clearance behind these
to slide tiles behind the wood, or cut the wood flush with the wall,
and cut tiles to fit round the bullnose ends?
Any advice much appreciated.

You can do either. With this amount of projection it doesn't matter,
although it is a lot of projection of the board......

Are you sure it's in proportion.?

My error, what I meant was, the board will extend 50mm each side
beyond the window opening, and overhang forwards over the wall about
25mm along its length, which is about normal I think.

OK. How thick are the tiles? If they are the large format ones
or even smaller good quality tiles, the overall tile can easily be 10mm
thick. Add the adhesive and it can be 12-13mm. so you mahy want to
cut the board wider to allow for that. A 12mm overhang would not
look right. At any rate, tiling first and cutting the board to fit
over it will provide a neater job than cutting in tiles around the
ends. That would simply draw attention to it.




I reckon I
will use no-nails, hopefully the board wont warp.


Hopefully not. I would suggest rendering or plastering the top
surface of the reveal to profide a flat, slightly rough surface.
Then use one of the solvent based adhesives like Gripfill rather than
the mimsy water based ones.

[Andy Wade]

4square wrote:

I reckon I will use no-nails, hopefully the board wont warp.

I really, really wouldn't. I'd use some frame fixings, say about 8 x 80
mm, or 8 x 100 even, spaced at about about 400 or 450 centres width-wise
and roughly centred over the thickness of the inner leaf of the wall.
Put them into counterbored holes and make good with cross-grain pellets
in the usual way.

--
Andy

[Stuart Noble]

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-29 10:54:23 +0100, Stuart Noble
said:

Andy Hall wrote:

You could. A better solution would be to drill and counterbore
fixing holes then screw the board to the reveal. Then cut wooden
plugs to fill the holes, cut and sand smooth.

Yeah, a dozen 6" x 14 screws should hold it.

Don't be silly. This is simply a suggestion for doing the job properly
as well as making the board removable without damage later.






I'd say it's making work for the sake of it, with no discernible
benefits. This ain't cabinet making

[Stuart Noble]

Andy Wade wrote:
4square wrote:

I reckon I will use no-nails, hopefully the board wont warp.

I really, really wouldn't. I'd use some frame fixings, say about 8 x 80
mm, or 8 x 100 even, spaced at about about 400 or 450 centres width-wise
and roughly centred over the thickness of the inner leaf of the wall.
Put them into counterbored holes and make good with cross-grain pellets
in the usual way.


Must be full moon

[Cicero]

On Sat, 28 Apr 2007 23:59:37 -0700, 4square wrote:

Am about to fix parana pine window board to kitchen, 1.8m long by 225mm
deep. Is it OK to secure it with no-nails, or similar, to the screed
where the old tiles were fixed? It will not be rebated into the wall as
in new build, or fixed to the window frame, although will be tiles down
to it at both ends. In addition, at either end where there is a 50mm
return in front of the wall, is it advisable to allow 8mm or so clearance
behind these to slide tiles behind the wood, or cut the wood flush with
the wall, and cut tiles to fit round the bullnose ends? Any advice much
appreciated.

================================
Consider using expanded foam (as discussed here fairly recently.
Expanded foam is a powerful adhesive and a good gap filler.

Cic.

--
================================
Testing UBUNTU Linux
Windows shown the door
================================

[tony sayer]

In article , Stuart Noble
writes
Andy Wade wrote:
4square wrote:

I reckon I will use no-nails, hopefully the board wont warp.

I really, really wouldn't. I'd use some frame fixings, say about 8 x 80
mm, or 8 x 100 even, spaced at about about 400 or 450 centres width-wise
and roughly centred over the thickness of the inner leaf of the wall.
Put them into counterbored holes and make good with cross-grain pellets
in the usual way.


Must be full moon

93% so it sez on my Google homepage!..

http://www.calculatorcat.com/moon_ph...now.php?tcv=60
--
Tony Sayer

[Stuart Noble]

Cicero wrote:
On Sat, 28 Apr 2007 23:59:37 -0700, 4square wrote:

Am about to fix parana pine window board to kitchen, 1.8m long by 225mm
deep. Is it OK to secure it with no-nails, or similar, to the screed
where the old tiles were fixed? It will not be rebated into the wall as
in new build, or fixed to the window frame, although will be tiles down
to it at both ends. In addition, at either end where there is a 50mm
return in front of the wall, is it advisable to allow 8mm or so clearance
behind these to slide tiles behind the wood, or cut the wood flush with
the wall, and cut tiles to fit round the bullnose ends? Any advice much
appreciated.

================================
Consider using expanded foam (as discussed here fairly recently.
Expanded foam is a powerful adhesive and a good gap filler.

Cic.


I wouldn't. They don't call it "expanding" for nothing! Gripfil is cheap
enough and made for the job.

[Stuart Noble]

tony sayer wrote:
In article , Stuart Noble
writes
Andy Wade wrote:
4square wrote:

I reckon I will use no-nails, hopefully the board wont warp.
I really, really wouldn't. I'd use some frame fixings, say about 8 x 80
mm, or 8 x 100 even, spaced at about about 400 or 450 centres width-wise
and roughly centred over the thickness of the inner leaf of the wall.
Put them into counterbored holes and make good with cross-grain pellets
in the usual way.

Must be full moon

93% so it sez on my Google homepage!..

http://www.calculatorcat.com/moon_ph...now.php?tcv=60

Still a way to go then....

[Cicero]

On Sun, 29 Apr 2007 14:37:16 +0000, Stuart Noble wrote:

Cicero wrote:
On Sat, 28 Apr 2007 23:59:37 -0700, 4square wrote:

Am about to fix parana pine window board to kitchen, 1.8m long by
225mm deep. Is it OK to secure it with no-nails, or similar, to the
screed where the old tiles were fixed? It will not be rebated into the
wall as in new build, or fixed to the window frame, although will be
tiles down to it at both ends. In addition, at either end where there
is a 50mm return in front of the wall, is it advisable to allow 8mm or
so clearance behind these to slide tiles behind the wood, or cut the
wood flush with the wall, and cut tiles to fit round the bullnose ends?
Any advice much appreciated.

================================
Consider using expanded foam (as discussed here fairly recently.
Expanded foam is a powerful adhesive and a good gap filler.

Cic.

--------------------------------

I wouldn't. They don't call it "expanding" for nothing! Gripfil is cheap
enough and made for the job.
--------------------------------
I would tend to believe the manufacturer (Unibond) who state on their
container that it's suitable for fixing window sills. That tallies with my
experience and that of many other people. Used properly it's a perfectly
satisfactory solution.

Cic.

--
================================
Testing UBUNTU Linux
Windows shown the door
================================

[Andy Hall]

On 2007-04-29 14:19:54 +0100, Stuart Noble
said:

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-29 10:54:23 +0100, Stuart Noble
said:

Andy Hall wrote:

You could. A better solution would be to drill and counterbore fixing
holes then screw the board to the reveal. Then cut wooden plugs to
fill the holes, cut and sand smooth.

Yeah, a dozen 6" x 14 screws should hold it.

Don't be silly. This is simply a suggestion for doing the job properly
as well as making the board removable without damage later.






I'd say it's making work for the sake of it, with no discernible
benefits. This ain't cabinet making

No it isn't. However you don't know about the discernible benefits,
nor do you know about the stability of the specific piece of material

Sticking with construction adhesive *may well* work OK.

Using screws and plugs *will* work.

If I were doing the job, I would certainly do it properly with screws
and plugs. This does take longer than sticking it, but the results
are essentially guaranteed and the board is removable later.

The OP may choose to cut out this step and stick the piece of wood.
That's fine. He will probably get away with it. If he doesn't. the
fix will take a lot longer than fixing it with screws and plugs.

This is really an issue of doing a job properly vs. cutting corners.
It's not quite a bodge.

Generally one can get away with cutting corners. I prefer to do jobs
properly from the outset in the knowledge that the result will be
correct and the job will not need to be revisited.

[Stuart Noble]

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-29 14:19:54 +0100, Stuart Noble
said:

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-29 10:54:23 +0100, Stuart Noble
said:

Andy Hall wrote:

You could. A better solution would be to drill and counterbore
fixing holes then screw the board to the reveal. Then cut wooden
plugs to fill the holes, cut and sand smooth.

Yeah, a dozen 6" x 14 screws should hold it.

Don't be silly. This is simply a suggestion for doing the job
properly as well as making the board removable without damage later.






I'd say it's making work for the sake of it, with no discernible
benefits. This ain't cabinet making

No it isn't. However you don't know about the discernible benefits,
nor do you know about the stability of the specific piece of material

Sticking with construction adhesive *may well* work OK.

Using screws and plugs *will* work.

If I were doing the job, I would certainly do it properly with screws
and plugs. This does take longer than sticking it, but the results
are essentially guaranteed and the board is removable later.

The OP may choose to cut out this step and stick the piece of wood.
That's fine. He will probably get away with it. If he doesn't. the fix
will take a lot longer than fixing it with screws and plugs.

This is really an issue of doing a job properly vs. cutting corners.
It's not quite a bodge.

Generally one can get away with cutting corners. I prefer to do jobs
properly from the outset in the knowledge that the result will be
correct and the job will not need to be revisited.



Fixings don't stop wood moving. In extreme cases it will simply split
where the fixings are. Your insistence that it's the "proper" way
doesn't hold up, particularly in this case where it only needs holding
in place. Allowing the wood to move isn't "cutting corners". Trying to
fix it into submission sounds like engineering principles wrongly applied

[Andy Hall]

On 2007-04-30 08:21:19 +0100, Stuart Noble
said:

Fixings don't stop wood moving.

Obviously

In extreme cases it will simply split where the fixings are.

Correct

Your insistence that it's the "proper" way doesn't hold up,
particularly in this case where it only needs holding in place.

It is the proper way, but not for reasons that you suggest.

Allowing the wood to move isn't "cutting corners".

Of course.

Trying to fix it into submission sounds like engineering principles
wrongly applied

Which is why I wasn't. The main reason is to make the piece able to
be removed as I stated.

[Stuart Noble]

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-30 08:21:19 +0100, Stuart Noble
said:

Fixings don't stop wood moving.

Obviously

In extreme cases it will simply split where the fixings are.

Correct

Your insistence that it's the "proper" way doesn't hold up,
particularly in this case where it only needs holding in place.

It is the proper way, but not for reasons that you suggest.

Allowing the wood to move isn't "cutting corners".

Of course.

Trying to fix it into submission sounds like engineering principles
wrongly applied

Which is why I wasn't. The main reason is to make the piece able to
be removed as I stated.

Who removes window boards, other than to replace them? Is there perhaps
something under them that needs to be inspected periodically?

[Andy Hall]

On 2007-04-30 20:29:00 +0100, Stuart Noble
said:

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-30 08:21:19 +0100, Stuart Noble
said:

Fixings don't stop wood moving.

Obviously

In extreme cases it will simply split where the fixings are.

Correct

Your insistence that it's the "proper" way doesn't hold up,
particularly in this case where it only needs holding in place.

It is the proper way, but not for reasons that you suggest.

Allowing the wood to move isn't "cutting corners".

Of course.

Trying to fix it into submission sounds like engineering principles
wrongly applied

Which is why I wasn't. The main reason is to make the piece able to
be removed as I stated.

Who removes window boards, other than to replace them? Is there perhaps
something under them that needs to be inspected periodically?

It depends on the material of the window board.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Cicero wrote:
On Sat, 28 Apr 2007 23:59:37 -0700, 4square wrote:

Am about to fix parana pine window board to kitchen, 1.8m long by 225mm
deep. Is it OK to secure it with no-nails, or similar, to the screed
where the old tiles were fixed? It will not be rebated into the wall as
in new build, or fixed to the window frame, although will be tiles down
to it at both ends. In addition, at either end where there is a 50mm
return in front of the wall, is it advisable to allow 8mm or so clearance
behind these to slide tiles behind the wood, or cut the wood flush with
the wall, and cut tiles to fit round the bullnose ends? Any advice much
appreciated.

================================
Consider using expanded foam (as discussed here fairly recently.
Expanded foam is a powerful adhesive and a good gap filler.

Cic.

I did one once with car body filler. No problems at all.

When I left the (rented) property some years later it was still the best
window board in the house..

[Stuart Noble]

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-30 20:29:00 +0100, Stuart Noble
said:

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-30 08:21:19 +0100, Stuart Noble
said:

Fixings don't stop wood moving.

Obviously

In extreme cases it will simply split where the fixings are.

Correct

Your insistence that it's the "proper" way doesn't hold up,
particularly in this case where it only needs holding in place.

It is the proper way, but not for reasons that you suggest.

Allowing the wood to move isn't "cutting corners".

Of course.

Trying to fix it into submission sounds like engineering principles
wrongly applied

Which is why I wasn't. The main reason is to make the piece able
to be removed as I stated.

Who removes window boards, other than to replace them? Is there
perhaps something under them that needs to be inspected periodically?

It depends on the material of the window board.



I suppose yours are rosewood

[Andy Hall]

On 2007-05-01 11:09:58 +0100, Stuart Noble
said:

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-30 20:29:00 +0100, Stuart Noble
said:

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-30 08:21:19 +0100, Stuart Noble
said:

Fixings don't stop wood moving.

Obviously

In extreme cases it will simply split where the fixings are.

Correct

Your insistence that it's the "proper" way doesn't hold up,
particularly in this case where it only needs holding in place.

It is the proper way, but not for reasons that you suggest.

Allowing the wood to move isn't "cutting corners".

Of course.

Trying to fix it into submission sounds like engineering principles
wrongly applied

Which is why I wasn't. The main reason is to make the piece able to
be removed as I stated.

Who removes window boards, other than to replace them? Is there perhaps
something under them that needs to be inspected periodically?

It depends on the material of the window board.



I suppose yours are rosewood

Various hardwoods......

[Stuart Noble]

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-05-01 11:09:58 +0100, Stuart Noble
said:

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-30 20:29:00 +0100, Stuart Noble
said:

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-30 08:21:19 +0100, Stuart Noble
said:

Fixings don't stop wood moving.

Obviously

In extreme cases it will simply split where the fixings are.

Correct

Your insistence that it's the "proper" way doesn't hold up,
particularly in this case where it only needs holding in place.

It is the proper way, but not for reasons that you suggest.

Allowing the wood to move isn't "cutting corners".

Of course.

Trying to fix it into submission sounds like engineering
principles wrongly applied

Which is why I wasn't. The main reason is to make the piece able
to be removed as I stated.

Who removes window boards, other than to replace them? Is there
perhaps something under them that needs to be inspected periodically?

It depends on the material of the window board.



I suppose yours are rosewood

Various hardwoods......



Wot, not matching? Whatever next!

[Andy Hall]

On 2007-05-01 17:17:16 +0100, Stuart Noble
said:

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-05-01 11:09:58 +0100, Stuart Noble
said:

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-30 20:29:00 +0100, Stuart Noble
said:

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-04-30 08:21:19 +0100, Stuart Noble
said:

Fixings don't stop wood moving.

Obviously

In extreme cases it will simply split where the fixings are.

Correct

Your insistence that it's the "proper" way doesn't hold up,
particularly in this case where it only needs holding in place.

It is the proper way, but not for reasons that you suggest.

Allowing the wood to move isn't "cutting corners".

Of course.

Trying to fix it into submission sounds like engineering principles
wrongly applied

Which is why I wasn't. The main reason is to make the piece able to
be removed as I stated.

Who removes window boards, other than to replace them? Is there perhaps
something under them that needs to be inspected periodically?

It depends on the material of the window board.



I suppose yours are rosewood

Various hardwoods......



Wot, not matching? Whatever next!

Different in different rooms. Obviously.