Since the last time I fitted a kitchen, the trend seems to have moved
away from the use of contoured aluminium strips to join laminate
kitchen worktops. Most of kitchens I've looked at recently seem to use
a colour-matched jointing compound and rely on extremely accurate
cutting - particularly on the laminate side of the worktop.

Can anyone tell me the best way of going about this? The worktop I'm
using is standard 40mm laminated chipboard. I have a decent enough
range of power tools - including a portable circular saw and a router -
but am unsure as to the best way of going about it.

Any advice would be gratefully received...

Nige

Nige wrote:
Since the last time I fitted a kitchen, the trend seems to have moved
away from the use of contoured aluminium strips to join laminate
kitchen worktops. Most of kitchens I've looked at recently seem to use
a colour-matched jointing compound and rely on extremely accurate
cutting - particularly on the laminate side of the worktop.

Can anyone tell me the best way of going about this? The worktop I'm
using is standard 40mm laminated chipboard. I have a decent enough
range of power tools - including a portable circular saw and a router -
but am unsure as to the best way of going about it.

Any advice would be gratefully received...

Nige
Rough cut a few mm oversize with a circular saw, and, using the bit you
cut off to support the far side of the router, use a clamped on ruler as
a guide and a full depth router bit to plane the edge square.

Nige wrote:
Since the last time I fitted a kitchen, the trend seems to have moved
away from the use of contoured aluminium strips to join laminate
kitchen worktops. Most of kitchens I've looked at recently seem to use
a colour-matched jointing compound and rely on extremely accurate
cutting - particularly on the laminate side of the worktop.

These joints are created using a router with a worktop jig.

For Example:

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...54348&id=18953

The jigs can be hired if required. You clamp the jig to the worktop and
use a powerful router with a long reach half inch cutter and a 30mm
guide bush. (full instructions are available for download on the above page)



--
Cheers,

John.

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On 2007-04-26 01:46:37 +0100, Nige said:


Since the last time I fitted a kitchen, the trend seems to have moved
away from the use of contoured aluminium strips to join laminate
kitchen worktops. Most of kitchens I've looked at recently seem to use
a colour-matched jointing compound and rely on extremely accurate
cutting - particularly on the laminate side of the worktop.

Can anyone tell me the best way of going about this? The worktop I'm
using is standard 40mm laminated chipboard. I have a decent enough
range of power tools - including a portable circular saw and a router -
but am unsure as to the best way of going about it.

Any advice would be gratefully received...

Nige

Use of a decently powerful 12.7mm router with long kitchen worktop bit
is the correct way to do this job. For joining worktops, a postform
jig is used together with the router. Jigs also have template holes
for cutting the slots for "dog bone" type connectors. ~To complete
the job, it is a good idea to have something to locate the worktops in
the vertical plane. A biscuit joiner and biscuits is ideal for this,
or you can get a router cutter to make the slots.

The important thing is to support the worktop(s) properly on a bench
before cutting and to clamp everything very securely.

Many thanks for this and the other two replies - they have all been
most helpful...


NL



In article , Andy Hall wrote:

On 2007-04-26 01:46:37 +0100, Nige said:


Since the last time I fitted a kitchen, the trend seems to have moved
away from the use of contoured aluminium strips to join laminate
kitchen worktops. Most of kitchens I've looked at recently seem to use
a colour-matched jointing compound and rely on extremely accurate
cutting - particularly on the laminate side of the worktop.

Can anyone tell me the best way of going about this? The worktop I'm
using is standard 40mm laminated chipboard. I have a decent enough
range of power tools - including a portable circular saw and a router -
but am unsure as to the best way of going about it.

Any advice would be gratefully received...

Nige

Use of a decently powerful 12.7mm router with long kitchen worktop bit
is the correct way to do this job. For joining worktops, a postform
jig is used together with the router. Jigs also have template holes
for cutting the slots for "dog bone" type connectors. ~To complete
the job, it is a good idea to have something to locate the worktops in
the vertical plane. A biscuit joiner and biscuits is ideal for this,
or you can get a router cutter to make the slots.

The important thing is to support the worktop(s) properly on a bench
before cutting and to clamp everything very securely.

On Thu, 26 Apr 2007 01:46:37 +0100, Nige wrote:


Since the last time I fitted a kitchen, the trend seems to have moved
away from the use of contoured aluminium strips to join laminate
kitchen worktops. Most of kitchens I've looked at recently seem to use
a colour-matched jointing compound and rely on extremely accurate
cutting - particularly on the laminate side of the worktop.

Can anyone tell me the best way of going about this? The worktop I'm
using is standard 40mm laminated chipboard. I have a decent enough
range of power tools - including a portable circular saw and a router -
but am unsure as to the best way of going about it.

Any advice would be gratefully received...

Nige

You have some good advice on the router, put in dog bone connectors and
biscuits. One thing I would do, ignore any suggestions for silicon etc in
the joint, and glue it up with a clear type 24 hour two pack epoxy. This
gives you heaps of time to frig about pulling in the connectors and
getting the top surfaces perfectly flush (use clamps). It also seals the
joint as good as anything can.

--
Bill
http://www.builderbill-diy-help.com

On Sat, 28 Apr 2007 10:54:07 GMT, Bill
wrote:

snip

You have some good advice on the router, put in dog bone connectors and
biscuits. One thing I would do, ignore any suggestions for silicon etc in
the joint, and glue it up with a clear type 24 hour two pack epoxy. This
gives you heaps of time to frig about pulling in the connectors and
getting the top surfaces perfectly flush (use clamps). It also seals the
joint as good as anything can.


You can tint the epoxy with acrylic paint ( artists shops sell small
pots and tubes ) - it helps if you warm the mixed glue when you mix
the colour in to get the best match.

Regards,



--
Stephen Howard - Woodwind repairs & period restorations
www.shwoodwind.co.uk
Emails to: showard{whoisat}shwoodwind{dot}co{dot}uk