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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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We are contemplating buying a new cooker (one of those electric ones with
the hobs that heat up immediately and wipe clean). However... we have an old gas one now, and no wiring facility for a cooker in the kitchen. We do have a combi boiler there, which I assume is not on the ring main. Might the cabling for the combi take enough current to enable a cooker box to be 'spurred' from it's own wire that runs to the fuse box?. The box is at the other end of the house, and therefore the electric cooker is rather a non-starter if this can't be done. NB I don't intend to try wiring any of this myself. Thanks, Keith |
#2
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"Keith (Dorset)" wrote in message
... We are contemplating buying a new cooker (one of those electric ones with the hobs that heat up immediately and wipe clean). However... we have an old gas one now, and no wiring facility for a cooker in the kitchen. We do have a combi boiler there, which I assume is not on the ring main. Might the cabling for the combi take enough current to enable a cooker box to be 'spurred' from it's own wire that runs to the fuse box?. The box is at the other end of the house, and therefore the electric cooker is rather a non-starter if this can't be done. No. Not even close. The combi boiler's primary energy source will be gas. The electrical supply to it is tiny, only designed for the control system. There's no way the electrical supply to a combi boiler is up to feeding an all-electric cooker. That will require a dedicated supply run from your Consumer Unit. Why not install a nice electric fan oven and a decent gas hob? -- Ron |
#3
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Keith (Dorset) wrote:
However... we have an old gas one now, and no wiring facility for a cooker in the kitchen. We do have a combi boiler there, which I assume is not on the ring main. Poor assumption, there is a fair chance it is. Might the cabling for the combi take enough current to enable a cooker box to be 'spurred' from it's own wire that runs to the fuse box?. Absolutely no chance! The box is at the other end of the house, and therefore the electric cooker is rather a non-starter if this can't be done. Some ovens are designed to run from an ordinary socket circuit. However hobs will frequently require a supply capable of providing 6kW or more (contrast this to the 500W your combi requires). NB I don't intend to try wiring any of this myself. In which case why worry? Let the sparks work out how to get the new cable there. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#4
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In message , Ron Lowe
writes "Keith (Dorset)" wrote in message ... We are contemplating buying a new cooker (one of those electric ones with the hobs that heat up immediately and wipe clean). However... we have an old gas one now, and no wiring facility for a cooker in the kitchen. We do have a combi boiler there, which I assume is not on the ring main. Might the cabling for the combi take enough current to enable a cooker box to be 'spurred' from it's own wire that runs to the fuse box?. The box is at the other end of the house, and therefore the electric cooker is rather a non-starter if this can't be done. No. Not even close. The combi boiler's primary energy source will be gas. The electrical supply to it is tiny, only designed for the control system. Is it buggery ... They are normally fused at 3A However, electric cookers are capable of taking a significant current and normally are on their own dedicated (30A ?) circuit -- geoff |
#5
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On Fri, 20 Apr 2007 22:46:18 GMT, raden wrote:
Might the cabling for the combi take enough current to enable a cooker box to be 'spurred' from it's own wire that runs to the fuse box?. The box is at the other end of the house, and therefore the electric cooker is rather a non-starter if this can't be done. No. Not even close. The combi boiler's primary energy source will be gas. The electrical supply to it is tiny, only designed for the control system. Is it buggery ... They are normally fused at 3A However, electric cookers are capable of taking a significant current and normally are on their own dedicated (30A ?) circuit Me thinks you're being disingenuous. The guy obviously meant comparatively and he's right. Andy |
#6
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In article ,
Keith \(Dorset\) wrote: We are contemplating buying a new cooker (one of those electric ones with the hobs that heat up immediately and wipe clean). Be wary of such claims. However... we have an old gas one now, and no wiring facility for a cooker in the kitchen. We do have a combi boiler there, which I assume is not on the ring main. Since the electricity supply for gas heating system is tiny it could well be via a spur. Might the cabling for the combi take enough current to enable a cooker box to be 'spurred' from it's own wire that runs to the fuse box?. The box is at the other end of the house, and therefore the electric cooker is rather a non-starter if this can't be done. *Absolutely* not. An electric cooker is one of the few things in a house that needs its own high current radial supply. It's possible there is a suitable supply already run in though but currently unused. An easy way to check might be to look for unused 30 or 45 amp circuits in the CU. NB I don't intend to try wiring any of this myself. Probably just as well. ;-) -- *If we weren't meant to eat animals, why are they made of meat? Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#7
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![]() The combi boiler's primary energy source will be gas. The electrical supply to it is tiny, only designed for the control system. Is it buggery ... They are normally fused at 3A However, electric cookers are capable of taking a significant current and normally are on their own dedicated (30A ?) circuit Huh? That's exactly what I said. The combi 3A supply is 'tiny' in comparison to the required circuit, and totally inadequate. Did you interpret my post differently? -- Ron |
#8
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In message , Ron Lowe
writes The combi boiler's primary energy source will be gas. The electrical supply to it is tiny, only designed for the control system. Is it buggery ... They are normally fused at 3A However, electric cookers are capable of taking a significant current and normally are on their own dedicated (30A ?) circuit Huh? That's exactly what I said. The combi 3A supply is 'tiny' in comparison to the required circuit, and totally inadequate. Did you interpret my post differently? I would associate "tiny" with something like a bell push transformer I would not call several hundred watts "tiny" -- geoff |
#9
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![]() "raden" wrote in message ... In message , Ron Lowe writes The combi boiler's primary energy source will be gas. The electrical supply to it is tiny, only designed for the control system. Is it buggery ... They are normally fused at 3A However, electric cookers are capable of taking a significant current and normally are on their own dedicated (30A ?) circuit Huh? That's exactly what I said. The combi 3A supply is 'tiny' in comparison to the required circuit, and totally inadequate. Did you interpret my post differently? I would associate "tiny" with something like a bell push transformer I would not call several hundred watts "tiny" I think it's an appropriate word in the current context of an electric cooker supply. -- Ron |
#10
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In article ,
raden wrote: I would associate "tiny" with something like a bell push transformer I would not call several hundred watts "tiny" But a boiler doesn't use several hundred watts. More like under a 100 even with the pump running - although it will perhaps have occasional peak demands higher than that when a solenoid etc operates. -- *The modem is the message * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#11
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On 20 Apr, 21:26, "Keith \(Dorset\)"
wrote: We are contemplating buying a new cooker (one of those electric ones with the hobs that heat up immediately and wipe clean). However... we have an old gas one now, and no wiring facility for a cooker in the kitchen. We do have a combi boiler there, which I assume is not on the ring main. Might the cabling for the combi take enough current to enable a cooker box to be 'spurred' from it's own wire that runs to the fuse box?. The box is at the other end of the house, and therefore the electric cooker is rather a non-starter if this can't be done. NB I don't intend to try wiring any of this myself. Thanks, Keith There is a way it could be done all electric, but not the way you want. There's no way you can run an all in one elec cooker without a big fat supply wire going in. Not unles its a mini one anyway, NT |
#12
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In message , Ron Lowe
writes "raden" wrote in message ... In message , Ron Lowe writes The combi boiler's primary energy source will be gas. The electrical supply to it is tiny, only designed for the control system. Is it buggery ... They are normally fused at 3A However, electric cookers are capable of taking a significant current and normally are on their own dedicated (30A ?) circuit Huh? That's exactly what I said. The combi 3A supply is 'tiny' in comparison to the required circuit, and totally inadequate. Did you interpret my post differently? I would associate "tiny" with something like a bell push transformer I would not call several hundred watts "tiny" I think it's an appropriate word in the current context of an electric cooker supply. A factor of 10 ? If that's what you want to think, that's your prerogative I don't -- geoff |
#13
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In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes In article , raden wrote: I would associate "tiny" with something like a bell push transformer I would not call several hundred watts "tiny" But a boiler doesn't use several hundred watts. More like under a 100 even with the pump running - although it will perhaps have occasional peak demands higher than that when a solenoid etc operates. Yes it does the fan alone uses 50 watts +/- a bit the pump what, 80 ? add a further 20 watts for everything else... -- geoff |
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