Can anyone confirm this meets wiring regs please?...

I have rewired my house, and have ran a 4mm earth cable from kitchen
sink to fuse board, 4mm from cloakroom sink to fuseboard, 4mm from
bathroom taps to fuseboard, and 6mm form boiler to fuseboard. I have
also used 10mm from gas supply to fuseboard.

Are these cable sizes ok (they are indepentantly wired, i.e. they do
not loop into each other). Also is it ok to do it this way?

Thanks in advance,

Toby.

In article . com,
mkkbb writes:
Can anyone confirm this meets wiring regs please?...

I have rewired my house, and have ran a 4mm earth cable from kitchen
sink to fuse board,

Not required.
Actually a bad idea if the pipework is plastic.

4mm from cloakroom sink to fuseboard,

Not required.
Actually a bad idea if the pipework is plastic.

4mm from bathroom taps to fuseboard,

Not required.

You need to bond all the metal pipework and fittings and
earth conductors of circuits in the bathroom together.
This is normally done with 4mm cable, but you can use 2.5mm
if it is protected from damage. This bonding doesn't need
separately connecting back to the main earth terminal and
must not be connected back to the main earth terminal instead
of connecting to the earth conductors in the circuits locally.

and 6mm form boiler to fuseboard.

Not required (over and above the earthing in the boiler supply).

However, you should earth the associated pipework unless
it's plastic.

I have also used 10mm from gas supply to fuseboard.

That's good. You need to do this with all metalic services
into the house (e.g. water, oil) too.

Are these cable sizes ok (they are indepentantly wired, i.e. they do
not loop into each other). Also is it ok to do it this way?

Service bonding should be 10mm.
Most of the other bonding you did wasn't required so there
is no relevant cable size.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

In message , Andrew Gabriel
writes

I have also used 10mm from gas supply to fuseboard.

That's good. You need to do this with all metalic services
into the house (e.g. water, oil) too.

Er.. What is the thinking behind this? Assuming the gas supply to an
external meter box is plastic and the consumer side is copper. Are we
protecting the meter reader from shock or is there some other purpose?

regards
--
Tim Lamb

I have rewired my house, and have ran a 4mm earth cable from kitchen
sink to fuse board,
Not required.
Actually a bad idea if the pipework is plastic.
4mm from cloakroom sink to fuseboard,
Not required.
Actually a bad idea if the pipework is plastic.
4mm from bathroom taps to fuseboard,
Not required.
You need to bond all the metal pipework and fittings and
earth conductors of circuits in the bathroom together.
This is normally done with 4mm cable, but you can use 2.5mm
if it is protected from damage. This bonding doesn't need
separately connecting back to the main earth terminal and
must not be connected back to the main earth terminal instead
of connecting to the earth conductors in the circuits locally.
and 6mm form boiler to fuseboard.
Not required (over and above the earthing in the boiler supply).
However, you should earth the associated pipework unless
it's plastic.
I have also used 10mm from gas supply to fuseboard.
That's good. You need to do this with all metalic services
into the house (e.g. water, oil) too.
Are these cable sizes ok (they are indepentantly wired, i.e. they do
not loop into each other). Also is it ok to do it this way?
Service bonding should be 10mm.
Most of the other bonding you did wasn't required so there
is no relevant cable size.
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Thanks for your reply, however i'm a bit more confused. How should I
earth the kitchen and bathroom sink taps. Bond the hot and cold
together then run one cable back to fuseboard? I have copper all round
the house (only plastic, the blue MDPE pipe, from street). I'm just
finding it hard to visualise the actual cable runs.

Toby.

On 18 Apr 2007 01:34:45 -0700, mkkbb mused:

I have rewired my house, and have ran a 4mm earth cable from kitchen
sink to fuse board,
Not required.
Actually a bad idea if the pipework is plastic.
4mm from cloakroom sink to fuseboard,
Not required.
Actually a bad idea if the pipework is plastic.
4mm from bathroom taps to fuseboard,
Not required.
You need to bond all the metal pipework and fittings and
earth conductors of circuits in the bathroom together.
This is normally done with 4mm cable, but you can use 2.5mm
if it is protected from damage. This bonding doesn't need
separately connecting back to the main earth terminal and
must not be connected back to the main earth terminal instead
of connecting to the earth conductors in the circuits locally.
and 6mm form boiler to fuseboard.
Not required (over and above the earthing in the boiler supply).
However, you should earth the associated pipework unless
it's plastic.
I have also used 10mm from gas supply to fuseboard.
That's good. You need to do this with all metalic services
into the house (e.g. water, oil) too.
Are these cable sizes ok (they are indepentantly wired, i.e. they do
not loop into each other). Also is it ok to do it this way?
Service bonding should be 10mm.
Most of the other bonding you did wasn't required so there
is no relevant cable size.
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Thanks for your reply, however i'm a bit more confused. How should I
earth the kitchen and bathroom sink taps.

Kitchen taps don't need any bonding, as you've been told once already.

You don't appear to understand the basics of supplementary earth
bonding, it's not about earthing everything, it's about keeping
various zones at the same potential by connecting local pipework
together, not to connect every bit of pipe in the whole house
together. Maybe buy a book, or actually look into what you're doing
*before* starting a job, especially one where you can end up injuring
people, by killing them.
--
Regards,
Stuart.

In article , Lurch
writes
On 18 Apr 2007 01:34:45 -0700, mkkbb mused:

I have rewired my house, and have ran a 4mm earth cable from kitchen
sink to fuse board,
Not required.
Actually a bad idea if the pipework is plastic.
4mm from cloakroom sink to fuseboard,
Not required.
Actually a bad idea if the pipework is plastic.
4mm from bathroom taps to fuseboard,
Not required.
You need to bond all the metal pipework and fittings and
earth conductors of circuits in the bathroom together.
This is normally done with 4mm cable, but you can use 2.5mm
if it is protected from damage. This bonding doesn't need
separately connecting back to the main earth terminal and
must not be connected back to the main earth terminal instead
of connecting to the earth conductors in the circuits locally.
and 6mm form boiler to fuseboard.
Not required (over and above the earthing in the boiler supply).
However, you should earth the associated pipework unless
it's plastic.
I have also used 10mm from gas supply to fuseboard.
That's good. You need to do this with all metalic services
into the house (e.g. water, oil) too.
Are these cable sizes ok (they are indepentantly wired, i.e. they do
not loop into each other). Also is it ok to do it this way?
Service bonding should be 10mm.
Most of the other bonding you did wasn't required so there
is no relevant cable size.
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Thanks for your reply, however i'm a bit more confused. How should I
earth the kitchen and bathroom sink taps.

Kitchen taps don't need any bonding, as you've been told once already.

You don't appear to understand the basics of supplementary earth
bonding, it's not about earthing everything, it's about keeping
various zones at the same potential by connecting local pipework
together, not to connect every bit of pipe in the whole house
together. Maybe buy a book, or actually look into what you're doing
*before* starting a job, especially one where you can end up injuring
people, by killing them.



You might find this interesting reading....



http://www.iee.org/Publish/WireRegs/EarthingPlasticPipes.pdf
--
Tony Sayer

On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 10:04:24 +0100, tony sayer
mused:

In article , Lurch
writes
On 18 Apr 2007 01:34:45 -0700, mkkbb mused:

I have rewired my house, and have ran a 4mm earth cable from kitchen
sink to fuse board,
Not required.
Actually a bad idea if the pipework is plastic.
4mm from cloakroom sink to fuseboard,
Not required.
Actually a bad idea if the pipework is plastic.
4mm from bathroom taps to fuseboard,
Not required.
You need to bond all the metal pipework and fittings and
earth conductors of circuits in the bathroom together.
This is normally done with 4mm cable, but you can use 2.5mm
if it is protected from damage. This bonding doesn't need
separately connecting back to the main earth terminal and
must not be connected back to the main earth terminal instead
of connecting to the earth conductors in the circuits locally.
and 6mm form boiler to fuseboard.
Not required (over and above the earthing in the boiler supply).
However, you should earth the associated pipework unless
it's plastic.
I have also used 10mm from gas supply to fuseboard.
That's good. You need to do this with all metalic services
into the house (e.g. water, oil) too.
Are these cable sizes ok (they are indepentantly wired, i.e. they do
not loop into each other). Also is it ok to do it this way?
Service bonding should be 10mm.
Most of the other bonding you did wasn't required so there
is no relevant cable size.
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Thanks for your reply, however i'm a bit more confused. How should I
earth the kitchen and bathroom sink taps.

Kitchen taps don't need any bonding, as you've been told once already.

You don't appear to understand the basics of supplementary earth
bonding, it's not about earthing everything, it's about keeping
various zones at the same potential by connecting local pipework
together, not to connect every bit of pipe in the whole house
together. Maybe buy a book, or actually look into what you're doing
*before* starting a job, especially one where you can end up injuring
people, by killing them.



You might find this interesting reading....



http://www.iee.org/Publish/WireRegs/EarthingPlasticPipes.pdf

Why? Which bit did I get wrong?
--
Regards,
Stuart.

In article , Lurch
writes
On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 10:04:24 +0100, tony sayer
mused:

In article , Lurch
writes
On 18 Apr 2007 01:34:45 -0700, mkkbb mused:

I have rewired my house, and have ran a 4mm earth cable from kitchen
sink to fuse board,
Not required.
Actually a bad idea if the pipework is plastic.
4mm from cloakroom sink to fuseboard,
Not required.
Actually a bad idea if the pipework is plastic.
4mm from bathroom taps to fuseboard,
Not required.
You need to bond all the metal pipework and fittings and
earth conductors of circuits in the bathroom together.
This is normally done with 4mm cable, but you can use 2.5mm
if it is protected from damage. This bonding doesn't need
separately connecting back to the main earth terminal and
must not be connected back to the main earth terminal instead
of connecting to the earth conductors in the circuits locally.
and 6mm form boiler to fuseboard.
Not required (over and above the earthing in the boiler supply).
However, you should earth the associated pipework unless
it's plastic.
I have also used 10mm from gas supply to fuseboard.
That's good. You need to do this with all metalic services
into the house (e.g. water, oil) too.
Are these cable sizes ok (they are indepentantly wired, i.e. they do
not loop into each other). Also is it ok to do it this way?
Service bonding should be 10mm.
Most of the other bonding you did wasn't required so there
is no relevant cable size.
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Thanks for your reply, however i'm a bit more confused. How should I
earth the kitchen and bathroom sink taps.

Kitchen taps don't need any bonding, as you've been told once already.

You don't appear to understand the basics of supplementary earth
bonding, it's not about earthing everything, it's about keeping
various zones at the same potential by connecting local pipework
together, not to connect every bit of pipe in the whole house
together. Maybe buy a book, or actually look into what you're doing
*before* starting a job, especially one where you can end up injuring
people, by killing them.



You might find this interesting reading....



http://www.iee.org/Publish/WireRegs/EarthingPlasticPipes.pdf

Why? Which bit did I get wrong?

No suggestion of getting anything wrong ..just given for general advice
and reading!......
--
Tony Sayer

On 17 Apr, 19:48, (Andrew Gabriel) wrote:
In article . com,
mkkbb writes:

Can anyone confirm this meets wiring regs please?...
snip

I have also used 10mm from gas supply to fuseboard.

That's good. You need to do this with all metalic services
into the house (e.g. water, oil) too.

Clarification here might help the OP (& me too). Oil supply pipe(s)
coming into the house are usually 10mm outside diameter.

Standard bonding clamps with the proper regulation stamped tag do not
fit pipes 15mm dia very well & always appear to me to present some
danger that a really tight screwing on could damage an oil pipe. What
is the correct clamp to use for 10mm oil pipe? Perhaps a pointer into
the TLC catalog would help.

On 18 Apr 2007 01:34:45 -0700 someone who may be mkkbb
wrote this:-

Thanks for your reply, however i'm a bit more confused. How should I
earth the kitchen and bathroom sink taps. Bond the hot and cold
together then run one cable back to fuseboard? I have copper all round
the house (only plastic, the blue MDPE pipe, from street). I'm just
finding it hard to visualise the actual cable runs.

To add to what the others have said. Copper pipe generally conducts
electricity just as well, if not better, than copper cable, as it
has a similar, or larger, cross sectional area compared to copper
cable.

If there is reliable metal to metal contact along the length of a
metal pipe then running a bit of copper covered in green and yellow
plastic alongside it adds almost nothing to electrical safety.

Of far more importance is to bridge plastic inserts. For example a
plastic water tank may mean some pipes are not earthed properly.
This is easily solved by a few clamps and a short length of earth
cable.

In rooms containing a bath and shower the aim is to ensure that all
pipes and metalwork that may introduce a potential into the room are
at the same potential. It doesn't particularly matter what this
potential is, so long as there is not a difference between the
potential of different pipes. That is what supplementary bonding is
for.

This is explained well in the usual books on the subject, which may
be borrowed from your local library before starting to do some work.


--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 11:18:29 +0100, tony sayer
mused:

You might find this interesting reading....



http://www.iee.org/Publish/WireRegs/...asticPipes.pdf

Why? Which bit did I get wrong?

No suggestion of getting anything wrong ..just given for general advice
and reading!......

Right, it's just that as you replied to my post I assumed you were
telling me I should read the guide.
--
Regards,
Stuart.

On 18 Apr 2007 05:49:39 -0700, jim mused:

On 17 Apr, 19:48, (Andrew Gabriel) wrote:
In article . com,
mkkbb writes:

Can anyone confirm this meets wiring regs please?...
snip

I have also used 10mm from gas supply to fuseboard.

That's good. You need to do this with all metalic services
into the house (e.g. water, oil) too.

Clarification here might help the OP (& me too). Oil supply pipe(s)
coming into the house are usually 10mm outside diameter.

Standard bonding clamps with the proper regulation stamped tag do not
fit pipes 15mm dia very well & always appear to me to present some
danger that a really tight screwing on could damage an oil pipe. What
is the correct clamp to use for 10mm oil pipe? Perhaps a pointer into
the TLC catalog would help.

Although I've never looked into small pipe clamp sizes I have found
that the cheap clamps are useless on most pipes. I tend to stick to
the Tenby clamps as you don't have to tighten the screw up with a huge
amount of force to tighten the strap up as you do with the cheap ones.
--
Regards,
Stuart.

On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 15:32:55 UTC, Lurch
wrote:

Although I've never looked into small pipe clamp sizes I have found
that the cheap clamps are useless on most pipes. I tend to stick to
the Tenby clamps as you don't have to tighten the screw up with a huge
amount of force to tighten the strap up as you do with the cheap ones.

One thing not mentioned in terms of bonding is the bonding of the three
pipes at the boiler. We had to do that with ours, and I guess it's a
general requirement.

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://www.diybanter.com

On 18 Apr 2007 15:42:35 GMT, "Bob Eager" mused:

On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 15:32:55 UTC, Lurch
wrote:

Although I've never looked into small pipe clamp sizes I have found
that the cheap clamps are useless on most pipes. I tend to stick to
the Tenby clamps as you don't have to tighten the screw up with a huge
amount of force to tighten the strap up as you do with the cheap ones.

One thing not mentioned in terms of bonding is the bonding of the three
pipes at the boiler. We had to do that with ours, and I guess it's a
general requirement.

Well, I think it was, but that may have been in one of the other 56
bonding threads from this week. I will generally only bond all the
pipes at a boiler if it's close to a bathroom or if the existing
supplementary and\or equipotential bonding is a bit suspect.
--
Regards,
Stuart.

"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 15:32:55 UTC, Lurch
wrote:

Although I've never looked into small pipe clamp sizes I have found
that the cheap clamps are useless on most pipes. I tend to stick to
the Tenby clamps as you don't have to tighten the screw up with a huge
amount of force to tighten the strap up as you do with the cheap ones.

One thing not mentioned in terms of bonding is the bonding of the three
pipes at the boiler. We had to do that with ours, and I guess it's a
general requirement.


There is no such rule that I am aware of. As long as the main equipotential
bonding is done correctly along with the supplementary bonding in
bath/shower rooms why would the boiler need x-bonding? A lot of plumbers ask
for this to be done and say CORGI ask fot it doing, but many other CORGI
plumbers do not ask for this doing.

Adam

On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 16:03:44 UTC, Lurch
wrote:

On 18 Apr 2007 15:42:35 GMT, "Bob Eager" mused:

On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 15:32:55 UTC, Lurch
wrote:

Although I've never looked into small pipe clamp sizes I have found
that the cheap clamps are useless on most pipes. I tend to stick to
the Tenby clamps as you don't have to tighten the screw up with a huge
amount of force to tighten the strap up as you do with the cheap ones.

One thing not mentioned in terms of bonding is the bonding of the three
pipes at the boiler. We had to do that with ours, and I guess it's a
general requirement.

Well, I think it was, but that may have been in one of the other 56
bonding threads from this week. I will generally only bond all the
pipes at a boiler if it's close to a bathroom or if the existing
supplementary and\or equipotential bonding is a bit suspect.

Fair enough. Our WB 24Ri installation manual explicitly states that it
should be so bonded. So I did!
--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://www.diybanter.com

ARWadsworth wrote:

There is no such rule that I am aware of. As long as the main
equipotential bonding is done correctly along with the supplementary
bonding in bath/shower rooms why would the boiler need x-bonding? A lot
of plumbers ask for this to be done and say CORGI ask fot it doing, but
many other CORGI plumbers do not ask for this doing.

Would be worth doing if the boiler was in the bathroom... ;-)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 16:09:39 GMT someone who may be "ARWadsworth"
wrote this:-

There is no such rule that I am aware of. As long as the main equipotential
bonding is done correctly along with the supplementary bonding in
bath/shower rooms why would the boiler need x-bonding? A lot of plumbers ask
for this to be done and say CORGI ask fot it doing, but many other CORGI
plumbers do not ask for this doing.

The flow and return pipes of heating systems are amongst those the
relevant books indicate should be bonded, along with metal ductwork
and a number of other things.


--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

In message , tony sayer
writes

You might find this interesting reading....



http://www.iee.org/Publish/WireRegs/...asticPipes.pdf

Yes. Clear enough.

The reason I am interested is that a recent gas meter change for my Aunt
was accompanied by a warning that the installation might not meet the
regulations in respect of electrical bonding.

A local electrician has quoted for running 10mm earth cable from the
service earth to the gas supply entry point. I have only heard my wife's
version of the proposed route so may easily have misunderstood but, with
continuous copper gas piping to the meter and plastic beyond:
underground, I could not see any benefit to carrying the earth beyond
the nearest convenient bonding point (at the boiler).

regards



--
Tim Lamb

David Hansen wrote:

The flow and return pipes of heating systems are amongst those the
relevant books indicate should be bonded, along with metal ductwork
and a number of other things.

Which "relevant books" are those? Or is this like Whitfield claiming
that sinks should be bonded?

BS7671 only mentions bonding of CH flow and return pipes in relation to
locations containing a bath or shower [601-04-01]


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Thu, 19 Apr 2007 09:18:58 +0100 someone who may be Tim Lamb
wrote this:-

A local electrician has quoted for running 10mm earth cable from the
service earth to the gas supply entry point. I have only heard my wife's
version of the proposed route so may easily have misunderstood but, with
continuous copper gas piping to the meter and plastic beyond:
underground, I could not see any benefit to carrying the earth beyond
the nearest convenient bonding point (at the boiler).

Whether you, or I, can see any benefit the IEE/IET committee, in
their wisdom, have decided that the bond should be as close to the
point of entry as practical. The result is a green and yellow
striped bit of copper running alongside a gas pipe for many metres
in several houses I keep an eye on.


--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

In message , David Hansen
writes
On Thu, 19 Apr 2007 09:18:58 +0100 someone who may be Tim Lamb
wrote this:-

A local electrician has quoted for running 10mm earth cable from the
service earth to the gas supply entry point. I have only heard my wife's
version of the proposed route so may easily have misunderstood but, with
continuous copper gas piping to the meter and plastic beyond:
underground, I could not see any benefit to carrying the earth beyond
the nearest convenient bonding point (at the boiler).

Whether you, or I, can see any benefit the IEE/IET committee, in
their wisdom, have decided that the bond should be as close to the
point of entry as practical. The result is a green and yellow
striped bit of copper running alongside a gas pipe for many metres
in several houses I keep an eye on.

OK. That sounds like the last word.

Thanks.

regards
--
Tim Lamb

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
ARWadsworth wrote:

There is no such rule that I am aware of. As long as the main
equipotential bonding is done correctly along with the supplementary
bonding in bath/shower rooms why would the boiler need x-bonding? A lot
of plumbers ask for this to be done and say CORGI ask fot it doing, but
many other CORGI plumbers do not ask for this doing.

Would be worth doing if the boiler was in the bathroom... ;-)

I agree. The WB site gives this approach to the subject

http://www.worcester-bosch.co.uk/index.php?fuseaction=site.viewFile&id=190261

I think that WB mix the words extraneous and exposed up. They also suggest
that "earth bonding" which is a made up phrase and means nothing needs 10mm
cable

Adam

snip



Although I've never looked into small pipe clamp sizes I have found
that the cheapclampsare useless on most pipes. I tend to stick to
theTenbyclamps

any chance of a pointer (eg into Screwfix or TLC or other picture or
catalog listing) to a 'Tenby' clamp please?


TIA

On 22 Apr 2007 15:41:46 -0700, jim mused:

snip



Although I've never looked into small pipe clamp sizes I have found
that the cheapclampsare useless on most pipes. I tend to stick to
theTenbyclamps

any chance of a pointer (eg into Screwfix or TLC or other picture or
catalog listing) to a 'Tenby' clamp please?

Can't seem to see any in any online stores. Tenby is a manufacturer,
not a type.

Manufacturers page -

http://www.electrika.com/products/itemdetail.asp?MANU=0550&C=ABF&D=AAA&E=AAC
--
Regards,
Stuart.

On 22 Apr, 23:46, Lurch wrote:
On 22 Apr 2007 15:41:46 -0700, jim mused:

snip

Although I've never looked into small pipe clamp sizes I have found
that the cheapclampsare useless on most pipes. I tend to stick to
theTenbyclamps

any chance of a pointer (eg into Screwfix or TLC or other picture or
catalog listing) to a 'Tenby' clamp please?

Can't seem to see any in any online stores.Tenbyis a manufacturer,
not a type.

Manufacturers page -

http://www.electrika.com/products/itemdetail.asp?MANU=0550&C=ABF&D=AA...


TFT

but unfortunately the smallest dia pipe that Tenby's BS style clamps
fit is 12mm, though they do make an 'earthing clip' to fit 10mm dia,
these aren't in the standard BS style & don't have the official
warning label attached.

So what is the right way of main bonding to the incoming 10mm dia Cu
oil pipes? Should one of the Tenby 10mm clips be used, fixng the 10mm
bond wire to it with Cu washers & nuts & adding a label from a BS
style clamp?

BTW it isn't just matching the diameter that bothers me, it's also
possible damage when a quite hard BS clamp is pressed onto a rather
soft Cu pipe.

On 23 Apr, 10:15, jim wrote:

Although I've never looked into small pipe clamp sizes I have found
that the cheapclampsare useless on most pipes. I tend to stick to
theTenbyclamps

I had no prob with the basic clamps, but I remember there was a knack
to it. IIRC I think it was a case of pull the strap tight with pliers
before tightening it all up.


NT

On 23 Apr 2007 02:15:10 -0700, jim mused:

On 22 Apr, 23:46, Lurch wrote:
On 22 Apr 2007 15:41:46 -0700, jim mused:

snip

Although I've never looked into small pipe clamp sizes I have found
that the cheapclampsare useless on most pipes. I tend to stick to
theTenbyclamps

any chance of a pointer (eg into Screwfix or TLC or other picture or
catalog listing) to a 'Tenby' clamp please?

Can't seem to see any in any online stores.Tenbyis a manufacturer,
not a type.

Manufacturers page -

http://www.electrika.com/products/itemdetail.asp?MANU=0550&C=ABF&D=AA...


TFT

but unfortunately the smallest dia pipe that Tenby's BS style clamps
fit is 12mm,

Never had a problem with them on 10mm pipes, fitted loads. Some people
read the instructions and dwell on it too much, just fit it.

though they do make an 'earthing clip' to fit 10mm dia,
these aren't in the standard BS style & don't have the official
warning label attached.

I think they're probably for earth rods, and would just flatten the
10mm pipe.

So what is the right way of main bonding to the incoming 10mm dia Cu
oil pipes? Should one of the Tenby 10mm clips be used, fixng the 10mm
bond wire to it with Cu washers & nuts & adding a label from a BS
style clamp?

BTW it isn't just matching the diameter that bothers me, it's also
possible damage when a quite hard BS clamp is pressed onto a rather
soft Cu pipe.

That's why I use the Tenby ones as they're quite soft, some are very
rigid and deform anything below 28mm.
--
Regards,
Stuart.

On 23 Apr 2007 05:09:27 -0700, mused:

On 23 Apr, 10:15, jim wrote:

Although I've never looked into small pipe clamp sizes I have found
that the cheapclampsare useless on most pipes. I tend to stick to
theTenbyclamps

I had no prob with the basic clamps, but I remember there was a knack
to it. IIRC I think it was a case of pull the strap tight with pliers
before tightening it all up.

Probably with cheap stiff crap clamps but the Tenby ones are much
better, you don't need to tug them with pliers.
--
Regards,
Stuart.

"Lurch" wrote in message
...
On 23 Apr 2007 05:09:27 -0700, mused:

On 23 Apr, 10:15, jim wrote:

Although I've never looked into small pipe clamp sizes I have found
that the cheapclampsare useless on most pipes. I tend to stick to
theTenbyclamps

I had no prob with the basic clamps, but I remember there was a knack
to it. IIRC I think it was a case of pull the strap tight with pliers
before tightening it all up.

Probably with cheap stiff crap clamps but the Tenby ones are much
better, you don't need to tug them with pliers.

And the Tenby ones allow a 10mm earth cable to be clamped nicely and quickly
without any of the earth cable strands falling out from behind the clamp's
washer. They have a nice fitting rectangle washer not a **** awfull round
one with gaps around it.

Adam

On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 20:09:50 GMT, "ARWadsworth"
mused:


"Lurch" wrote in message
.. .
On 23 Apr 2007 05:09:27 -0700, mused:

On 23 Apr, 10:15, jim wrote:

Although I've never looked into small pipe clamp sizes I have found
that the cheapclampsare useless on most pipes. I tend to stick to
theTenbyclamps

I had no prob with the basic clamps, but I remember there was a knack
to it. IIRC I think it was a case of pull the strap tight with pliers
before tightening it all up.

Probably with cheap stiff crap clamps but the Tenby ones are much
better, you don't need to tug them with pliers.

And the Tenby ones allow a 10mm earth cable to be clamped nicely and quickly
without any of the earth cable strands falling out from behind the clamp's
washer. They have a nice fitting rectangle washer not a **** awfull round
one with gaps around it.

That's the other thing that helps.
--
Regards,
Stuart.