Arghhh... I have spent the last few weekends preparing a front door
for painting. Yesterday I put a glosscoat on, and left the door open
for about 16 hours before it had to be closed. This morning the door
frame has marked it, and in a few patches it has gone wrinkly - and it
is still tacky! Back to the sander I suppose - any suggestions for
next time?

Cheers,

Ben

Ben wrote:
Arghhh... I have spent the last few weekends preparing a front door
for painting. Yesterday I put a glosscoat on, and left the door open
for about 16 hours before it had to be closed. This morning the door
frame has marked it, and in a few patches it has gone wrinkly - and it
is still tacky! Back to the sander I suppose - any suggestions for
next time?

Cheers,

Ben


Sounds like you put too much on in one coat. It should dry eventually,
and you can give it a light rub down followed by a very, very thin coat
to even everything up.
That said, a lot of this "one coat" exterior stuff is so bulked out with
aggregate that it's impossible to apply a thin coat

"Ben" wrote in message
oups.com...
Arghhh... I have spent the last few weekends preparing a front door
for painting. Yesterday I put a glosscoat on, and left the door open
for about 16 hours before it had to be closed. This morning the door
frame has marked it, and in a few patches it has gone wrinkly - and it
is still tacky! Back to the sander I suppose - any suggestions for
next time?

Cheers,

Ben

When I used to paint my doors I rubbed a little baby oil along the inner
door frame & draft excluders. This stopped the door from being marked or
binding.

Kinky I know, but each to is own ;-))

Don.

When I used to paint my doors I rubbed a little baby oil along the inner
door frame & draft excluders. This stopped the door from being marked or
binding.


I usually cut a thick plastic refuse bag into wide strips and place them
between the areas which contact each other. At least overnight but sometimes
for up to a week.

Good fun getting them in place if it's windy...

On 7 Apr, 11:03, "rrh" wrote:
When I used to paint my doors I rubbed a little baby oil along the inner
door frame & draft excluders. This stopped the door from being marked or
binding.

I usually cut a thick plastic refuse bag into wide strips and place them
between the areas which contact each other. At least overnight but sometimes
for up to a week.

Good fun getting them in place if it's windy...

I may have some serious sanding to do where there are wrinkles or the
frame has marked... will new sections of paint mesh with the old, or
will the whole thing need another coat?

Cheers,

Ben

Ben wrote:
On 7 Apr, 11:03, "rrh" wrote:
When I used to paint my doors I rubbed a little baby oil along the inner
door frame & draft excluders. This stopped the door from being marked or
binding.
I usually cut a thick plastic refuse bag into wide strips and place them
between the areas which contact each other. At least overnight but sometimes
for up to a week.

Good fun getting them in place if it's windy...

I may have some serious sanding to do where there are wrinkles or the
frame has marked... will new sections of paint mesh with the old, or
will the whole thing need another coat?

Cheers,

Ben


You can't do much until the existing paint is dry i.e. you can't mark it
with your thumb nail. Heavy coats tend to become touch dry on the
surface but trap solvents inside the coating, which can take several
days to evaporate.
After that, scraping with a stanley blade at 45 degs to and fro might be
more effective on the wrinkles because sanding generates heat, melts
paint etc.
Once you have it smooth to the touch, another thin coat all over. This
should dry quite quickly :-)

On 7 Apr, 12:29, Stuart Noble wrote:
Ben wrote:
On 7 Apr, 11:03, "rrh" wrote:
When I used to paint my doors I rubbed a little baby oil along the inner
door frame & draft excluders. This stopped the door from being marked or
binding.
I usually cut a thick plastic refuse bag into wide strips and place them
between the areas which contact each other. At least overnight but sometimes
for up to a week.

Good fun getting them in place if it's windy...

I may have some serious sanding to do where there are wrinkles or the
frame has marked... will new sections of paint mesh with the old, or
will the whole thing need another coat?

Cheers,

Ben

You can't do much until the existing paint is dry i.e. you can't mark it
with your thumb nail. Heavy coats tend to become touch dry on the
surface but trap solvents inside the coating, which can take several
days to evaporate.
After that, scraping with a stanley blade at 45 degs to and fro might be
more effective on the wrinkles because sanding generates heat, melts
paint etc.
Once you have it smooth to the touch, another thin coat all over. This
should dry quite quickly :-)

Ok - I'll leave it for a bit. Of course there may be an issue that the
surface will be pitted where there has been selective scraping, which
will be evident through the thin layer also.

I hope I don't need to break out the paint stripper :-)

Ben

On Apr 7, 12:43 pm, "Ben" wrote:
On 7 Apr, 12:29, Stuart Noble wrote:



Ben wrote:
On 7 Apr, 11:03, "rrh" wrote:
When I used to paint my doors I rubbed a little baby oil along the inner
door frame & draft excluders. This stopped the door from being marked or
binding.
I usually cut a thick plastic refuse bag into wide strips and place them
between the areas which contact each other. At least overnight but sometimes
for up to a week.

Good fun getting them in place if it's windy...

I may have some serious sanding to do where there are wrinkles or the
frame has marked... will new sections of paint mesh with the old, or
will the whole thing need another coat?

Cheers,

Ben

You can't do much until the existing paint is dry i.e. you can't mark it
with your thumb nail. Heavy coats tend to become touch dry on the
surface but trap solvents inside the coating, which can take several
days to evaporate.
After that, scraping with a stanley blade at 45 degs to and fro might be
more effective on the wrinkles because sanding generates heat, melts
paint etc.
Once you have it smooth to the touch, another thin coat all over. This
should dry quite quickly :-)

Ok - I'll leave it for a bit. Of course there may be an issue that the
surface will be pitted where there has been selective scraping, which
will be evident through the thin layer also.

I don't think you have the reason for the paint not setting. Modern
paints set pretty quickly. I imagine you removed or failed to stir in
the top layer when you opened the can.

The reason it would have looked wrinkled rather than it had "run"
might be some chemical on the door you used in the preparation. What
might that have been?

Ben wrote:
On 7 Apr, 12:29, Stuart Noble wrote:
Ben wrote:
On 7 Apr, 11:03, "rrh" wrote:
When I used to paint my doors I rubbed a little baby oil along the inner
door frame & draft excluders. This stopped the door from being marked or
binding.
I usually cut a thick plastic refuse bag into wide strips and place them
between the areas which contact each other. At least overnight but sometimes
for up to a week.
Good fun getting them in place if it's windy...
I may have some serious sanding to do where there are wrinkles or the
frame has marked... will new sections of paint mesh with the old, or
will the whole thing need another coat?
Cheers,
Ben
You can't do much until the existing paint is dry i.e. you can't mark it
with your thumb nail. Heavy coats tend to become touch dry on the
surface but trap solvents inside the coating, which can take several
days to evaporate.
After that, scraping with a stanley blade at 45 degs to and fro might be
more effective on the wrinkles because sanding generates heat, melts
paint etc.
Once you have it smooth to the touch, another thin coat all over. This
should dry quite quickly :-)

Ok - I'll leave it for a bit. Of course there may be an issue that the
surface will be pitted where there has been selective scraping, which
will be evident through the thin layer also.

I hope I don't need to break out the paint stripper :-)

Don't go there

On Apr 7, 4:14 pm, Stuart Noble
wrote:
Ben wrote:
On 7 Apr, 12:29, Stuart Noble wrote:
Ben wrote:
On 7 Apr, 11:03, "rrh" wrote:
When I used to paint my doors I rubbed a little baby oil along the inner
door frame & draft excluders. This stopped the door from being marked or
binding.
I usually cut a thick plastic refuse bag into wide strips and place them
between the areas which contact each other. At least overnight but sometimes
for up to a week.
Good fun getting them in place if it's windy...
I may have some serious sanding to do where there are wrinkles or the
frame has marked... will new sections of paint mesh with the old, or
will the whole thing need another coat?
Cheers,
Ben
You can't do much until the existing paint is dry i.e. you can't mark it
with your thumb nail. Heavy coats tend to become touch dry on the
surface but trap solvents inside the coating, which can take several
days to evaporate.
After that, scraping with a stanley blade at 45 degs to and fro might be
more effective on the wrinkles because sanding generates heat, melts
paint etc.
Once you have it smooth to the touch, another thin coat all over. This
should dry quite quickly :-)

Ok - I'll leave it for a bit. Of course there may be an issue that the
surface will be pitted where there has been selective scraping, which
will be evident through the thin layer also.

I hope I don't need to break out the paint stripper :-)

Don't go there

I didn't stir the paint, but I shook the can hard for a good 30
seconds before starting, which I assumed would have done the trick...

"Ben" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Apr 7, 4:14 pm, Stuart Noble
wrote:
Ben wrote:
On 7 Apr, 12:29, Stuart Noble wrote:
Ben wrote:
On 7 Apr, 11:03, "rrh" wrote:
When I used to paint my doors I rubbed a little baby oil along the
inner
door frame & draft excluders. This stopped the door from being
marked or
binding.
I usually cut a thick plastic refuse bag into wide strips and place
them
between the areas which contact each other. At least overnight but
sometimes
for up to a week.
Good fun getting them in place if it's windy...
I may have some serious sanding to do where there are wrinkles or the
frame has marked... will new sections of paint mesh with the old, or
will the whole thing need another coat?
Cheers,
Ben
You can't do much until the existing paint is dry i.e. you can't mark
it
with your thumb nail. Heavy coats tend to become touch dry on the
surface but trap solvents inside the coating, which can take several
days to evaporate.
After that, scraping with a stanley blade at 45 degs to and fro might
be
more effective on the wrinkles because sanding generates heat, melts
paint etc.
Once you have it smooth to the touch, another thin coat all over. This
should dry quite quickly :-)

Ok - I'll leave it for a bit. Of course there may be an issue that the
surface will be pitted where there has been selective scraping, which
will be evident through the thin layer also.

I hope I don't need to break out the paint stripper :-)

Don't go there

I didn't stir the paint, but I shook the can hard for a good 30
seconds before starting, which I assumed would have done the trick...



If it says stir - then stir it.

I always try to remove doors and lay them horizontally - not practical for
your front door I guess. However, I have sometimes tried to hang the door
too soon and have left thumb prints. I now re-fit the handle and try not to
touch the painted face.

John wrote:
"Ben" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Apr 7, 4:14 pm, Stuart Noble
wrote:
Ben wrote:
On 7 Apr, 12:29, Stuart Noble wrote:
Ben wrote:
On 7 Apr, 11:03, "rrh" wrote:
When I used to paint my doors I rubbed a little baby oil along the
inner
door frame & draft excluders. This stopped the door from being
marked or
binding.
I usually cut a thick plastic refuse bag into wide strips and place
them
between the areas which contact each other. At least overnight but
sometimes
for up to a week.
Good fun getting them in place if it's windy...
I may have some serious sanding to do where there are wrinkles or the
frame has marked... will new sections of paint mesh with the old, or
will the whole thing need another coat?
Cheers,
Ben
You can't do much until the existing paint is dry i.e. you can't mark
it
with your thumb nail. Heavy coats tend to become touch dry on the
surface but trap solvents inside the coating, which can take several
days to evaporate.
After that, scraping with a stanley blade at 45 degs to and fro might
be
more effective on the wrinkles because sanding generates heat, melts
paint etc.
Once you have it smooth to the touch, another thin coat all over. This
should dry quite quickly :-)
Ok - I'll leave it for a bit. Of course there may be an issue that the
surface will be pitted where there has been selective scraping, which
will be evident through the thin layer also.
I hope I don't need to break out the paint stripper :-)
Don't go there
I didn't stir the paint, but I shook the can hard for a good 30
seconds before starting, which I assumed would have done the trick...



If it says stir - then stir it.

Makes no difference IME. If a good shake doesn't disperse it evenly,
it's probably **** paint.


I always try to remove doors and lay them horizontally - not practical for
your front door I guess. However, I have sometimes tried to hang the door
too soon and have left thumb prints. I now re-fit the handle and try not to
touch the painted face.

As you say, not practical for front doors and paint that takes 16 hours
or whatever to dry.

On 7 Apr, 18:19, Stuart Noble wrote:
John wrote:
"Ben" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Apr 7, 4:14 pm, Stuart Noble
wrote:
Ben wrote:
On 7 Apr, 12:29, Stuart Noble wrote:
Ben wrote:
On 7 Apr, 11:03, "rrh" wrote:
When I used to paint my doors I rubbed a little baby oil along the
inner
door frame & draft excluders. This stopped the door from being
marked or
binding.
I usually cut a thick plastic refuse bag into wide strips and place
them
between the areas which contact each other. At least overnight but
sometimes
for up to a week.
Good fun getting them in place if it's windy...
I may have some serious sanding to do where there are wrinkles or the
frame has marked... will new sections of paint mesh with the old, or
will the whole thing need another coat?
Cheers,
Ben
You can't do much until the existing paint is dry i.e. you can't mark
it
with your thumb nail. Heavy coats tend to become touch dry on the
surface but trap solvents inside the coating, which can take several
days to evaporate.
After that, scraping with a stanley blade at 45 degs to and fro might
be
more effective on the wrinkles because sanding generates heat, melts
paint etc.
Once you have it smooth to the touch, another thin coat all over. This
should dry quite quickly :-)
Ok - I'll leave it for a bit. Of course there may be an issue that the
surface will be pitted where there has been selective scraping, which
will be evident through the thin layer also.
I hope I don't need to break out the paint stripper :-)
Don't go there
I didn't stir the paint, but I shook the can hard for a good 30
seconds before starting, which I assumed would have done the trick...

If it says stir - then stir it.

Makes no difference IME. If a good shake doesn't disperse it evenly,
it's probably **** paint.



I always try to remove doors and lay them horizontally - not practical for
your front door I guess. However, I have sometimes tried to hang the door
too soon and have left thumb prints. I now re-fit the handle and try not to
touch the painted face.

As you say, not practical for front doors and paint that takes 16 hours
or whatever to dry.

Well, I left it open for 16 hours. Even now it is stil lscratchable
with a thumbnail. I think I might strip it (groan) again and try
another paint.
The primer went on incredibly easily -no drips, quick drying, lovely
smooth finish. Maybe I could use a spray...or just a different paint
brand!
It won't happen this weekend I suspect as it is still to soft to sand
easily.

Ben wrote:
On 7 Apr, 18:19, Stuart Noble wrote:
John wrote:
"Ben" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Apr 7, 4:14 pm, Stuart Noble
wrote:
Ben wrote:
On 7 Apr, 12:29, Stuart Noble wrote:
Ben wrote:
On 7 Apr, 11:03, "rrh" wrote:
When I used to paint my doors I rubbed a little baby oil along the
inner
door frame & draft excluders. This stopped the door from being
marked or
binding.
I usually cut a thick plastic refuse bag into wide strips and place
them
between the areas which contact each other. At least overnight but
sometimes
for up to a week.
Good fun getting them in place if it's windy...
I may have some serious sanding to do where there are wrinkles or the
frame has marked... will new sections of paint mesh with the old, or
will the whole thing need another coat?
Cheers,
Ben
You can't do much until the existing paint is dry i.e. you can't mark
it
with your thumb nail. Heavy coats tend to become touch dry on the
surface but trap solvents inside the coating, which can take several
days to evaporate.
After that, scraping with a stanley blade at 45 degs to and fro might
be
more effective on the wrinkles because sanding generates heat, melts
paint etc.
Once you have it smooth to the touch, another thin coat all over. This
should dry quite quickly :-)
Ok - I'll leave it for a bit. Of course there may be an issue that the
surface will be pitted where there has been selective scraping, which
will be evident through the thin layer also.
I hope I don't need to break out the paint stripper :-)
Don't go there
I didn't stir the paint, but I shook the can hard for a good 30
seconds before starting, which I assumed would have done the trick...
If it says stir - then stir it.
Makes no difference IME. If a good shake doesn't disperse it evenly,
it's probably **** paint.



I always try to remove doors and lay them horizontally - not practical for
your front door I guess. However, I have sometimes tried to hang the door
too soon and have left thumb prints. I now re-fit the handle and try not to
touch the painted face.
As you say, not practical for front doors and paint that takes 16 hours
or whatever to dry.

Well, I left it open for 16 hours. Even now it is stil lscratchable
with a thumbnail. I think I might strip it (groan) again and try
another paint.
The primer went on incredibly easily -no drips, quick drying, lovely
smooth finish. Maybe I could use a spray...or just a different paint
brand!
It won't happen this weekend I suspect as it is still to soft to sand
easily.




Review the situation this time next week :-)

On Apr 7, 4:24?pm, "Ben" wrote:
On Apr 7, 4:14 pm, Stuart Noble
wrote:





Ben wrote:
On 7 Apr, 12:29, Stuart Noble wrote:
Ben wrote:
On 7 Apr, 11:03, "rrh" wrote:

I didn't stir the paint, but I shook the can hard for a good 30
seconds before starting, which I assumed would have done the trick...-

I am going to be kind to you and presume you read my reply but are too
stupid to know how to reply to it properly.

You will have to strip the door. This will take the undercoat off too,
so that you can start from scratch.

I suggest you read up on painting doors and then hire someone that
knows what he is doing to repair your work.

"Ben" wrote:
I didn't stir the paint, but I shook the can hard for a good 30
seconds before starting, which I assumed would have done the trick...

If it says stir on the tin then it should be stirred. The thickness of paint
and the small gap between the paint and the lid means that shaking is not
sufficient to mix all the contents of the tin evenly. If shaking was
satisfactory then they would say to shake on the tin. What brand of paint
did you use? In my experience own-brand paint is rubbish, especially gloss
top coat.

Weatherlawyer wrote:
On Apr 7, 4:24?pm, "Ben" wrote:
On Apr 7, 4:14 pm, Stuart Noble
wrote:





Ben wrote:
On 7 Apr, 12:29, Stuart Noble wrote:
Ben wrote:
On 7 Apr, 11:03, "rrh" wrote:
I didn't stir the paint, but I shook the can hard for a good 30
seconds before starting, which I assumed would have done the trick...-

I am going to be kind to you and presume you read my reply but are too
stupid to know how to reply to it properly.

You will have to strip the door. This will take the undercoat off too,
so that you can start from scratch.

I suggest you read up on painting doors and then hire someone that
knows what he is doing to repair your work.



Nutcase

uk.d-i-y wrote:
"Ben" wrote:
I didn't stir the paint, but I shook the can hard for a good 30
seconds before starting, which I assumed would have done the trick...

If it says stir on the tin then it should be stirred. The thickness of paint
and the small gap between the paint and the lid means that shaking is not
sufficient to mix all the contents of the tin evenly.

That's how it's mixed if you buy custom shades, and those tints they use
are so powerful that anything short of perfect dispersion would be
disastrous.

If shaking was
satisfactory then they would say to shake on the tin.

Little old ladies may not be able to shake two litres of paint. Stirring
is a compromise, but nowhere near as thorough.

What brand of paint
did you use? In my experience own-brand paint is rubbish, especially gloss
top coat.

In message , Stuart Noble
writes
Weatherlawyer wrote:
On Apr 7, 4:24?pm, "Ben" wrote:
On Apr 7, 4:14 pm, Stuart Noble
wrote:





Ben wrote:
On 7 Apr, 12:29, Stuart Noble wrote:
Ben wrote:
On 7 Apr, 11:03, "rrh" wrote:
I didn't stir the paint, but I shook the can hard for a good 30
seconds before starting, which I assumed would have done the trick...-
I am going to be kind to you and presume you read my reply but are
too
stupid to know how to reply to it properly.
You will have to strip the door. This will take the undercoat off
too,
so that you can start from scratch.
I suggest you read up on painting doors and then hire someone that
knows what he is doing to repair your work.


Nutcase

That was a restrained response ...

--
geoff

Stuart Noble wrote:
uk.d-i-y wrote:
"Ben" wrote:
I didn't stir the paint, but I shook the can hard for a good 30
seconds before starting, which I assumed would have done the trick...

If it says stir on the tin then it should be stirred. The thickness of
paint and the small gap between the paint and the lid means that
shaking is not sufficient to mix all the contents of the tin evenly.

That's how it's mixed if you buy custom shades, and those tints they use
are so powerful that anything short of perfect dispersion would be
disastrous.

Yebbut come on - custom mixes are prepared on a bloody great vibrating
machine oscillating for (say) a minute at 2000 rpm; totally different to
the OP shaking it for 30 secs at (say) 100 rpm.

Plus, many paints are so thick - especially those for the diy market -
that there is no way that 30 secs shaking of a full tin (as mentioned
above) is going to disperse any inconsistencies within the paint.

David

On Sun, 08 Apr 2007 12:26:53 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

uk.d-i-y wrote:
"Ben" wrote:
I didn't stir the paint, but I shook the can hard for a good 30
seconds before starting, which I assumed would have done the trick...

If it says stir on the tin then it should be stirred. The thickness of paint
and the small gap between the paint and the lid means that shaking is not
sufficient to mix all the contents of the tin evenly.

I have to agree - shaking seems impractical for the reasons you
mention, not enough room to achieve anything. Especially true with one
coat paints or any thicker paints. It may work for the runny cheap
own-brand crap.

That's how it's mixed if you buy custom shades, and those tints they use
are so powerful that anything short of perfect dispersion would be
disastrous.

If shaking was
satisfactory then they would say to shake on the tin.

Little old ladies may not be able to shake two litres of paint. Stirring
is a compromise, but nowhere near as thorough.

What brand of paint
did you use? In my experience own-brand paint is rubbish, especially gloss
top coat.

On 8 Apr, 17:59, Lobster wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:
uk.d-i-y wrote:
"Ben" wrote:
I didn't stir the paint, but I shook the can hard for a good 30
seconds before starting, which I assumed would have done the trick...

If it says stir on the tin then it should be stirred. The thickness of
paint and the small gap between the paint and the lid means that
shaking is not sufficient to mix all the contents of the tin evenly.

That's how it's mixed if you buy custom shades, and those tints they use
are so powerful that anything short of perfect dispersion would be
disastrous.

Yebbut come on - custom mixes are prepared on a bloody great vibrating
machine oscillating for (say) a minute at 2000 rpm; totally different to
the OP shaking it for 30 secs at (say) 100 rpm.

Plus, many paints are so thick - especially those for the diy market -
that there is no way that 30 secs shaking of a full tin (as mentioned
above) is going to disperse any inconsistencies within the paint.

David

Thanks for everyone's help - save that of "weatherlawyer" who I can
only assume uses newsgroups because nobody in the real world can put
up with his lack of manners. Everyone else has been extremely helpful.

The paint was Leyland high gloss red base with a few colours added in
the shop to give Post Office Red. Since that is a well known brand I
suspect it was my lack of stirring properly combined with too much
paint- oh well, lesson learnt for next time!

Ben

Lobster wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:
uk.d-i-y wrote:
"Ben" wrote:
I didn't stir the paint, but I shook the can hard for a good 30
seconds before starting, which I assumed would have done the trick...

If it says stir on the tin then it should be stirred. The thickness
of paint and the small gap between the paint and the lid means that
shaking is not sufficient to mix all the contents of the tin evenly.

That's how it's mixed if you buy custom shades, and those tints they
use are so powerful that anything short of perfect dispersion would be
disastrous.

Yebbut come on - custom mixes are prepared on a bloody great vibrating
machine oscillating for (say) a minute at 2000 rpm; totally different to
the OP shaking it for 30 secs at (say) 100 rpm.

Yes but the bloody great vibrator needs to disperse pigments. Here we're
talking about "soft settle" where the heavier elements may sink during
storage but are easily redistributed. If they form a sludge and have to
be poked with a stick, that is a sure sign of a lousy formulation

Plus, many paints are so thick - especially those for the diy market -
that there is no way that 30 secs shaking of a full tin (as mentioned
above) is going to disperse any inconsistencies within the paint.

If they're thick, the viscosity should guarantee stability. If not, then
again, that's a bad paint.

Ben wrote:
On 8 Apr, 17:59, Lobster wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:
uk.d-i-y wrote:
"Ben" wrote:
I didn't stir the paint, but I shook the can hard for a good 30
seconds before starting, which I assumed would have done the
trick...

If it says stir on the tin then it should be stirred. The
thickness of paint and the small gap between the paint and the lid
means that shaking is not sufficient to mix all the contents of
the tin evenly.

That's how it's mixed if you buy custom shades, and those tints
they use are so powerful that anything short of perfect dispersion
would be disastrous.

Yebbut come on - custom mixes are prepared on a bloody great
vibrating machine oscillating for (say) a minute at 2000 rpm;
totally different to the OP shaking it for 30 secs at (say) 100
rpm.

Plus, many paints are so thick - especially those for the diy market
- that there is no way that 30 secs shaking of a full tin (as
mentioned above) is going to disperse any inconsistencies within the
paint.

David

Thanks for everyone's help - save that of "weatherlawyer" who I can
only assume uses newsgroups because nobody in the real world can put
up with his lack of manners. Everyone else has been extremely helpful.

The paint was Leyland high gloss red base with a few colours added in
the shop to give Post Office Red. Since that is a well known brand I
suspect it was my lack of stirring properly combined with too much
paint- oh well, lesson learnt for next time!

Ben

Well that explains all. Small wonder it's taken so long to dry."Snail
mail" red indeed ;-))

Don.

Don Spumey wrote:
Ben wrote:
On 8 Apr, 17:59, Lobster wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:
uk.d-i-y wrote:
"Ben" wrote:
I didn't stir the paint, but I shook the can hard for a good 30
seconds before starting, which I assumed would have done the
trick...
If it says stir on the tin then it should be stirred. The
thickness of paint and the small gap between the paint and the lid
means that shaking is not sufficient to mix all the contents of
the tin evenly.
That's how it's mixed if you buy custom shades, and those tints
they use are so powerful that anything short of perfect dispersion
would be disastrous.
Yebbut come on - custom mixes are prepared on a bloody great
vibrating machine oscillating for (say) a minute at 2000 rpm;
totally different to the OP shaking it for 30 secs at (say) 100
rpm.

Plus, many paints are so thick - especially those for the diy market
- that there is no way that 30 secs shaking of a full tin (as
mentioned above) is going to disperse any inconsistencies within the
paint.

David
Thanks for everyone's help - save that of "weatherlawyer" who I can
only assume uses newsgroups because nobody in the real world can put
up with his lack of manners. Everyone else has been extremely helpful.

The paint was Leyland high gloss red base with a few colours added in
the shop to give Post Office Red. Since that is a well known brand I
suspect it was my lack of stirring properly combined with too much
paint- oh well, lesson learnt for next time!

Ben

Well that explains all. Small wonder it's taken so long to dry."Snail
mail" red indeed ;-))

Don.



Nice colour that. Acrylics still can't get anywhere near it