Do I nail or screw ??

"luke58" wrote in message
...
Do I nail or screw ??

screw, can be removed easier if you need to get at electrics
--
Vass

luke58 wrote:
Do I nail or screw ??

Screw because (a) it won't bounce and (b) if nailed the T&G has to be broken
to remove any of it. Screws can be undone so the panels will slide out.


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

On 6 Apr, 08:42, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
luke58 wrote:
Do I nail or screw ??

Upto you. The ceiling underneath has more risk of break up if nailed,
though theyre usually fine. Nails are quicker.


NT

In article .com,
writes
On 6 Apr, 08:42, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
luke58 wrote:
Do I nail or screw ??

Upto you. The ceiling underneath has more risk of break up if nailed,
though theyre usually fine. Nails are quicker.


Not with a power driver for the screws they aren't!...

bin there screwed that etc............

NT


--
Tony Sayer

On 6 Apr, 07:54, luke58 wrote:
Do I nail or screw ??

I agree with the screwers. Another hint: if you might ever want to get
at the cables and light fittings underneath it's a good idea to mark
on the boards where they are.

Once it's all nicely boarded out try to avoid the temptation to put
too much stuff up there. I was told that the matchstick joists in my
victorian house are just about strong enough to hold the ceiling which
is attached to them and not much else. I've ignored that advice, but I
do try to put anything heavy over a supporting wall and put lighter
things like empty suitcases elsewhere (and I don't have any cracks in
the ceilings below yet, so I assume I'm not overdoing it). I've also
increased the storage capacity by fixing some shelves to the end walls
(which obviously put no load on the joists).

On 6 Apr, 10:34, tony sayer wrote:
In article .com,
writes
On 6 Apr, 08:42, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
luke58 wrote:

Do I nail or screw ??

Upto you. The ceiling underneath has more risk of break up if nailed,
though theyre usually fine. Nails are quicker.

Not with a power driver for the screws they aren't!...

bin there screwed that etc............

To be fair if you bring power tools into it - and I would - then you'd
compare electric screwdriver with nailer, and nails are much quicker,
either way.


NT

On 6 Apr, 11:23, "Martin Pentreath"
wrote:

too much stuff up there. I was told that the matchstick joists in my
victorian house are just about strong enough to hold the ceiling which
is attached to them and not much else. I've ignored that advice, but I

I've heard that one over and over, and in most cases, but not all, it
isnt true.


NT

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
...
luke58 wrote:
Do I nail or screw ??

Screw because (a) it won't bounce and (b) if nailed the T&G has to be
broken to remove any of it. Screws can be undone so the panels will slide
out.


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

I would certainly use screws in this application.

However it's not quite true that T&G "has to be broken" to lift any of it
after nailing. I had to deal with a load of "annular ring shank" nails
holding down the big T&G chipboard boards in my house a while ago, and after
much frustration got one of these:

http://www.tool-up.co.uk/shop/diy/PRI150.html

(a randomly chosen site but the first Google result for "Priory Nail
Puller"). It's on my shortlist of "best tools I ever bought". Makes removing
even the tightest nails a pleasure! Having said that, in a loft there may be
low headroom near the "edges" and this tool might be a bit too tall to fit.

Regards,
Simon.

On Sat, 7 Apr 2007 10:31:18 +0100, "Simon Stroud"
wrote:

|!
|!"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
...
|! luke58 wrote:
|! Do I nail or screw ??
|!
|! Screw because (a) it won't bounce and (b) if nailed the T&G has to be
|! broken to remove any of it. Screws can be undone so the panels will slide
|! out.
|!
|!
|! --
|! Dave
|! The Medway Handyman
|! www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
|! 01634 717930
|! 07850 597257
|!
|!I would certainly use screws in this application.

I use screws, and if necessary plastic plugs in almost *every* application

I just took down a very strong construction I made in the kitchen mumble
years ago. Undo a few screws and it came out a treat.
--
Dave Fawthrop sf hyphenologist.co.uk 165 *Free* SF ebooks.
165 Sci Fi books on CDROM, from Project Gutenberg
http://www.gutenberg.org/wiki/Main_Page Completely Free to any
address in the UK. Contact me on the *above* email address.

Simon Stroud wrote:
"The Medway Handyman" wrote in
message ...
luke58 wrote:
Do I nail or screw ??

Screw because (a) it won't bounce and (b) if nailed the T&G has to be
broken to remove any of it. Screws can be undone so the panels will
slide out.

I would certainly use screws in this application.

However it's not quite true that T&G "has to be broken" to lift any
of it after nailing. I had to deal with a load of "annular ring
shank" nails holding down the big T&G chipboard boards in my house a
while ago, and after much frustration got one of these:

http://www.tool-up.co.uk/shop/diy/PRI150.html

OK, I'll ammend that to add "unless you have a priory nail puller" :-)

Looks like a good tool, but limited in use - wonder if you can hire them?


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

On the subject of nailing/screwing down chipboard floors, I recently
replaced parts of an 18mm chipboard floor in a bedroom.

Two central heating pipes ran the length of the room, notched into the
joists. Their position was such that they could easily be damaged by screws
used to fit something like a sliding wardrobe track to the floor.

I got some yellow/black pvc tape from TLC for about £3 and marked out the
pipe runs with it. Seemed to me like an accident waiting to happen.

I'm surprised there aren't any regulations about marking pipe runs? Or are
there?


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

The Medway Handyman wrote:
On the subject of nailing/screwing down chipboard floors, I recently
replaced parts of an 18mm chipboard floor in a bedroom.

Two central heating pipes ran the length of the room, notched into the
joists. Their position was such that they could easily be damaged by screws
used to fit something like a sliding wardrobe track to the floor.

I got some yellow/black pvc tape from TLC for about £3 and marked out the
pipe runs with it. Seemed to me like an accident waiting to happen.

I'm surprised there aren't any regulations about marking pipe runs? Or are
there?



Shouldn't need regs if the effing plumbers did their job properly. That
said, there are always tricky bits where notching the joists is the only
option.
And if you were the handyman fitting that wardrobe track last thing on a
Friday, you might wonder about your choice of career :-)

In article , Stuart Noble
writes
The Medway Handyman wrote:
On the subject of nailing/screwing down chipboard floors, I recently
replaced parts of an 18mm chipboard floor in a bedroom.

Two central heating pipes ran the length of the room, notched into the
joists. Their position was such that they could easily be damaged by screws
used to fit something like a sliding wardrobe track to the floor.

I got some yellow/black pvc tape from TLC for about £3 and marked out the
pipe runs with it. Seemed to me like an accident waiting to happen.

I'm surprised there aren't any regulations about marking pipe runs? Or are
there?



Shouldn't need regs if the effing plumbers did their job properly. That
said, there are always tricky bits where notching the joists is the only
option.
And if you were the handyman fitting that wardrobe track last thing on a
Friday, you might wonder about your choice of career :-)

Shouldn't be a problem these days with the advent of speedfit and the
like when you can thread the pipe through holes in the centre of joists
away from harm from screws and nails, and no more of that bloody
tick-tick noise as they expand and contract!..
--
Tony Sayer

On Apr 6, 7:54?am, luke58 wrote:

Do I nail or screw Chipboard Loft floorboards?

More importantly do you have to asume that you don't need to explain
what the feck you are talking about in the message body?

Any reason for fixing the boarding that we need to know about?