Hello

Last year I converted our heating system from vented to sealed (ie no header
tank).

Everything works fine with the sole exception of slow pressure loss, losing
1 bar over a period of about 3 months. I have checked every visible valve
and compression joint for leaks with no joy, so I can only assume I have
some kind of invisible "nano-leak". It's no great bother but I would like
to fix it.

Question: Is the "Sentinel" leak sealer as sold by BES any cop? Will it
solve my problem? Could it create any other problems?

David

On 2 Apr, 19:17, "Vortex" wrote:
Hello

Last year I converted our heating system from vented to sealed (ie no header
tank).

Everything works fine with the sole exception of slow pressure loss, losing
1 bar over a period of about 3 months. I have checked every visible valve
and compression joint for leaks with no joy, so I can only assume I have
some kind of invisible "nano-leak". It's no great bother but I would like
to fix it.

Question: Is the "Sentinel" leak sealer as sold by BES any cop? Will it
solve my problem? Could it create any other problems?

David

Hi,

My boiler sprung a small leak near the burner and I needed a temporary
fix. None of the user friendly sealers worked for longer than a week
but then I used oxypic from http://www.dunsleyheat.co.uk/oxypic.htm
who are a local firm to me.

It worked a treat and was still fine 6 months or so later when we had
the boiler removed as planned.

Not nice stuff though as it can stain etc but with common sense
handling it was fine.

In article ,
"Vortex" writes:
Hello

Last year I converted our heating system from vented to sealed (ie no header
tank).

Everything works fine with the sole exception of slow pressure loss, losing
1 bar over a period of about 3 months. I have checked every visible valve
and compression joint for leaks with no joy, so I can only assume I have
some kind of invisible "nano-leak". It's no great bother but I would like
to fix it.

When you switch the heating off for summer, I suggest you
do a final search for the leak first. With the system cold,
top it up until you get the pressure up to the normal hot
operating pressure. This will cause it to leak faster, and
with the system cold, it's less likely to evaporate before
it creates a noticable wet spot, so you stand a better
chance of finding the leak.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Mon, 02 Apr 2007 19:17:15 +0100, Vortex wrote:

Hello

Last year I converted our heating system from vented to sealed (ie no header
tank).

Everything works fine with the sole exception of slow pressure loss, losing
1 bar over a period of about 3 months. I have checked every visible valve
and compression joint for leaks with no joy, so I can only assume I have
some kind of invisible "nano-leak". It's no great bother but I would like
to fix it.

Question: Is the "Sentinel" leak sealer as sold by BES any cop? Will it
solve my problem? Could it create any other problems?

David

If you have to top up once a month then I'd seriously say that the cure is
worse than the condition. Check the rad valve spindles if you must.
LS-I should do the trick.



--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html
Gas Fitting Standards Docs he http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFittingStandards

Vortex wrote:

Question: Is the "Sentinel" leak sealer as sold by BES any cop? Will it
solve my problem? Could it create any other problems?

I happened to notice in the manual for a Worcester-Bosch combi an
instruction not to use these sealants, for fear of clogging up the heat
exchanger.

No idea how likely that is, or whether it applies to any CH system - I
just pass on the info at face value.

David

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Vortex" writes:
Hello

Last year I converted our heating system from vented to sealed (ie no
header
tank).

Everything works fine with the sole exception of slow pressure loss,
losing
1 bar over a period of about 3 months. I have checked every visible
valve
and compression joint for leaks with no joy, so I can only assume I have
some kind of invisible "nano-leak". It's no great bother but I would
like
to fix it.

When you switch the heating off for summer, I suggest you
do a final search for the leak first. With the system cold,
top it up until you get the pressure up to the normal hot
operating pressure. This will cause it to leak faster, and
with the system cold, it's less likely to evaporate before
it creates a noticable wet spot, so you stand a better
chance of finding the leak.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

I have a hunch that if the leak is anywhere it is in one of several "quarter
turn" ball valves I have around the system to isolate segments.

I have in the past noticed that turning one of these makes a few drips come
out.

Unfortunately there's nothing you can do to tighten them up.

I've resolved to put in some leak sealer and see what happens. I don't have
teh patience to wait for the summer.

David