Hi, having just had 9 x 50 watt downlighters installed in my kitchen I
am keen to try to ensure that they are not left on any longer than
requred, also that they can be dimmed down to the required level. Does
anyone know of a combined occupancy & dimmer wall switch?. If there is
no such thing, is it possible to use an occupancy switch in
conjunction with a dimmer?

cheers

Nigel

Nigel wrote:
Hi, having just had 9 x 50 watt downlighters installed in my kitchen I
am keen to try to ensure that they are not left on any longer than
requred, also that they can be dimmed down to the required level. Does
anyone know of a combined occupancy & dimmer wall switch?. If there is
no such thing, is it possible to use an occupancy switch in
conjunction with a dimmer?

I bet you could replace them with 20W ones and notice no loss in lighting.

That way you wouldn't need a dimmer at all.

Just a thought.

Pete
--
http://www.gymratz.co.uk - for all your gym and fitness equipment.

Hi, having just had 9 x 50 watt downlighters installed in my kitchen I
am keen to try to ensure that they are not left on any longer than
requred, also that they can be dimmed down to the required level. Does
anyone know of a combined occupancy & dimmer wall switch?. If there is
no such thing, is it possible to use an occupancy switch in
conjunction with a dimmer?

I can't see any reason why you couldn't rig up your own, but i'd over-
rate the relay doing the switching.

On 29 Mar, 09:14, "Nigel" wrote:
Hi, having just had 9 x 50 watt downlighters installed in my kitchen I
am keen to try to ensure that they are not left on any longer than
requred, also that they can be dimmed down to the required level. Does
anyone know of a combined occupancy & dimmer wall switch?. If there is
no such thing, is it possible to use an occupancy switch in
conjunction with a dimmer?

cheers

Nigel

best option is a switchbank.
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...26_Switchbanks


NT

In article ,
Pete @ www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
I bet you could replace them with 20W ones and notice no loss in
lighting.

That way you wouldn't need a dimmer at all.

I find that sort of reply strange - as it applies to anywhere you might
want a dimmer.

If all that's needed is working light a central fluorescent strip light is
ideal. Some care about aesthetics, though.

--
*Why is the time of day with the slowest traffic called rush hour?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Nigel" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi, having just had 9 x 50 watt downlighters installed in my kitchen I
am keen to try to ensure that they are not left on any longer than
requred, also that they can be dimmed down to the required level. Does
anyone know of a combined occupancy & dimmer wall switch?. If there is
no such thing, is it possible to use an occupancy switch in
conjunction with a dimmer?

cheers

Nigel


How about using X10?

I'm using a wireless X10 PIR and a micro X10 module behind the switch to
automatically turn on & off my kitchen halogens - in my case 8x35w bulbs
though.

There is micro dimmer that doesn't require a neutral connection available
also:

http://www.simplyautomate.co.uk/prod...sp?prodId=5456

(Note you'd also need the PIR and a radio reciever to pass the signal onto
the mains)

Alan.

In article ,
Huge wrote:
If all that's needed is working light a central fluorescent strip
light is ideal.

Not when your shadow falls on the work ...

But surely if efficiency is all that's needed you'd have everything
painted white?

But you'd need a lot of spotlights to make absolutely sure there are no
shadows anywhere in the work area...

--
*A conscience is what hurts when all your other parts feel so good *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Huge wrote:
On 2007-03-29, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Pete @ www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
I bet you could replace them with 20W ones and notice no loss in
lighting.

That way you wouldn't need a dimmer at all.

I find that sort of reply strange - as it applies to anywhere you might
want a dimmer.

If all that's needed is working light a central fluorescent strip light is
ideal.

Not when your shadow falls on the work ...

You have to be *very* fat to cast a significant shadow from (say) a
5ft fluorescent.

--
Chris Green

In article ,
wrote:
Huge wrote:
On 2007-03-29, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , Pete @
www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
I bet you could replace them with 20W ones and notice no loss in
lighting.

That way you wouldn't need a dimmer at all.

I find that sort of reply strange - as it applies to anywhere you
might want a dimmer.

If all that's needed is working light a central fluorescent strip
light is ideal.

Not when your shadow falls on the work ...

You have to be *very* fat to cast a significant shadow from (say) a
5ft fluorescent.

Look at the name...;-)

--
*If you think this van is dirty, you should try having sex with the driver*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 29 Mar, 10:40, wrote:
On 29 Mar, 09:14, "Nigel" wrote:

Hi, having just had 9 x 50 watt downlighters installed in my kitchen I
am keen to try to ensure that they are not left on any longer than
requred, also that they can be dimmed down to the required level. Does
anyone know of a combined occupancy & dimmer wall switch?. If there is
no such thing, is it possible to use an occupancy switch in
conjunction with a dimmer?

cheers

Nigel

best option is a switchbank.http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...26_Switchbanks

NT

A 3 position switch is much preferable to 2x 2 position ones, the
latter works just as well to select off / pir / always on but people
never really get used to it. Too non-intuitive.


NT