I'm renewing the felt on a flat roof of a porch which is against a
irregular poll stone wall. The porch is 1.5 metres by 2.4 metres with
the longest side against the wall.
The original roof had a triangular wooden fillet against the wall but
falling short by about 12 inches at either side, due to the lead
flashing following the pointing in the stone. The lead flashing is
inserted in pointing just 50mm above the roof, coming down almost to
the roof level at the outer 12 inches.

I understand that when fitting new felt there shold be an upstand of
at least 150mm with the capsheet.

Just wondering what the best way to fit the flashing and upstand
correctly to this type of wall.

Any advice would be appreciated.

"jack" wrote in message
...
I'm renewing the felt on a flat roof of a porch which is against a
irregular poll stone wall.
snip

Just wondering what the best way to fit the flashing and upstand
correctly to this type of wall.

The Ruberoid "Blue Book" is the definitive guide, though it may not
cover your exact circumstances

http://www.ruberoid.co.uk/index.php?page=15

Some of their detailing looks very complex, but I followed it to the
letter on a couple of roofs, and one has now lasted well over 30 years,
and the other about 20, with no hint of problem. I reckon it's when you
try to cut corners that the problems arise.


--
Kevin Poole
**Use current month and year to reply (e.g. )***

"jack" wrote in message
...
I'm renewing the felt on a flat roof of a porch which is against a
irregular poll stone wall. The porch is 1.5 metres by 2.4 metres with
the longest side against the wall.
The original roof had a triangular wooden fillet against the wall but
falling short by about 12 inches at either side, due to the lead
flashing following the pointing in the stone. The lead flashing is
inserted in pointing just 50mm above the roof, coming down almost to
the roof level at the outer 12 inches.

I understand that when fitting new felt there shold be an upstand of
at least 150mm with the capsheet.

Just wondering what the best way to fit the flashing and upstand
correctly to this type of wall.

Any advice would be appreciated.

The triangular strip of timber against the wall is there to help the felter
to bend the felt up the wall. If its just bent at 90 degs it as a tendency
to crack and not fit tight .

There are two ways of doing the up stand. Cut, chop or grid a brick joint
25mm deep x 25mm wide, 150mm above the base of the flat roof. Prime the
wall and the joint with bitumen primer and just stick, with what ever you
are using as a fixing, the base and the top layer up and into the joint.
Point with either Leadmate or mortar.

Cut, chop or grid out a brick bed joint 25mm deep full width the brick bed
joint and 150mm above base of flat roof . Prime the brick work 30mm below
cut out brick joint. Stick felt up to primer line. Get a roll of code 4 x
150mm cut into 1.metre length, turn one top edge 90 degs x 25mm and insert
into brick joint, continue the full length with side over laps of 100mm or
150mm. Plug with lead plugs or Bora fixing clips. Point as above. If the
flat roof as to be re done again at a later date, just bend the lead apron
up to reveal the felt. There is no need to take the lead apron off, using
this method.

Its easier to do it than write it.sorry for any grammar mistakes

Keith

Thanks for the reply, there are just a few other points I would like
to make.

n Thu, 08 Feb 2007 17:52:54 GMT, "keith_765"
wrote:


"jack" wrote in message
.. .
I'm renewing the felt on a flat roof of a porch which is against a
irregular poll stone wall. The porch is 1.5 metres by 2.4 metres with
the longest side against the wall.
The original roof had a triangular wooden fillet against the wall but
falling short by about 12 inches at either side, due to the lead
flashing following the pointing in the stone. The lead flashing is
inserted in pointing just 50mm above the roof, coming down almost to
the roof level at the outer 12 inches.

I understand that when fitting new felt there shold be an upstand of
at least 150mm with the capsheet.

Just wondering what the best way to fit the flashing and upstand
correctly to this type of wall.

Any advice would be appreciated.

The triangular strip of timber against the wall is there to help the felter
to bend the felt up the wall. If its just bent at 90 degs it as a tendency
to crack and not fit tight .

There are two ways of doing the up stand. Cut, chop or grid a brick joint
25mm deep x 25mm wide, 150mm above the base of the flat roof. Prime the
wall and the joint with bitumen primer and just stick, with what ever you
are using as a fixing, the base and the top layer up and into the joint.
Point with either Leadmate or mortar.

Cut, chop or grid out a brick bed joint 25mm deep full width the brick bed
joint and 150mm above base of flat roof .


The first full length mortar joint is 280mm above the flat roof which
is also directly below a stone window ledge. The facing of the stone
is also irregular, unlike a brick wall which would be flat facing.
There is a mortar joint about 150mm above the flat roof, but this does
not extend the full length of the roof as there are larger poll stone
either side fitted into the wall. the only way that I could see this
being done is to grind a slot in the face of these stones on either
side to continue the joint. But i am reluctant to do this as I am
wondering if it will damage the stone (cause it to split at a later
date.
This is why the original lead flashing had been taken across the roof
in a mortar joint 50mm above the roof and had then taken a downward
turn and then followed the mortar joint below the larger stones on
either side. The lead thus was almost flush with the roof going into
the mortar joint at the last 250mm on either side.

if it was a brick wall it would be no problem but with the irregular
size of the stone blocks, it is a pain in the ass.

I have noticed that a couple of stone blocks in other places on the
wall have hairline cracks through them, so I don't really want to
cause any others to crack by grinting a slot in them.

Hope that you understand what i am saying and it makes sense.

Prime the brick work 30mm below
cut out brick joint. Stick felt up to primer line. Get a roll of code 4 x
150mm cut into 1.metre length, turn one top edge 90 degs x 25mm and insert
into brick joint, continue the full length with side over laps of 100mm or
150mm. Plug with lead plugs or Bora fixing clips. Point as above. If the
flat roof as to be re done again at a later date, just bend the lead apron
up to reveal the felt. There is no need to take the lead apron off, using
this method.

Its easier to do it than write it.sorry for any grammar mistakes

Keith

"jack" wrote in message
...

Thanks for the reply, there are just a few other points I would like
to make.

n Thu, 08 Feb 2007 17:52:54 GMT, "keith_765"
wrote:


"jack" wrote in message
.. .
I'm renewing the felt on a flat roof of a porch which is against a
irregular poll stone wall. The porch is 1.5 metres by 2.4 metres with
the longest side against the wall.
The original roof had a triangular wooden fillet against the wall but
falling short by about 12 inches at either side, due to the lead
flashing following the pointing in the stone. The lead flashing is
inserted in pointing just 50mm above the roof, coming down almost to
the roof level at the outer 12 inches.

I understand that when fitting new felt there shold be an upstand of
at least 150mm with the capsheet.

Just wondering what the best way to fit the flashing and upstand
correctly to this type of wall.

Any advice would be appreciated.

The triangular strip of timber against the wall is there to help the
felter
to bend the felt up the wall. If its just bent at 90 degs it as a
tendency
to crack and not fit tight .

There are two ways of doing the up stand. Cut, chop or grid a brick
joint
25mm deep x 25mm wide, 150mm above the base of the flat roof. Prime the
wall and the joint with bitumen primer and just stick, with what ever you
are using as a fixing, the base and the top layer up and into the joint.
Point with either Leadmate or mortar.

Cut, chop or grid out a brick bed joint 25mm deep full width the brick
bed
joint and 150mm above base of flat roof .


The first full length mortar joint is 280mm above the flat roof which
is also directly below a stone window ledge. The facing of the stone
is also irregular, unlike a brick wall which would be flat facing.
There is a mortar joint about 150mm above the flat roof, but this does
not extend the full length of the roof as there are larger poll stone
either side fitted into the wall. the only way that I could see this
being done is to grind a slot in the face of these stones on either
side to continue the joint. But i am reluctant to do this as I am
wondering if it will damage the stone (cause it to split at a later
date.
This is why the original lead flashing had been taken across the roof
in a mortar joint 50mm above the roof and had then taken a downward
turn and then followed the mortar joint below the larger stones on
either side. The lead thus was almost flush with the roof going into
the mortar joint at the last 250mm on either side.

if it was a brick wall it would be no problem but with the irregular
size of the stone blocks, it is a pain in the ass.

I have noticed that a couple of stone blocks in other places on the
wall have hairline cracks through them, so I don't really want to
cause any others to crack by grinting a slot in them.

Hope that you understand what i am saying and it makes sense.

Prime the brick work 30mm below
cut out brick joint. Stick felt up to primer line. Get a roll of code 4 x
150mm cut into 1.metre length, turn one top edge 90 degs x 25mm and
insert
into brick joint, continue the full length with side over laps of 100mm
or
150mm. Plug with lead plugs or Bora fixing clips. Point as above. If the
flat roof as to be re done again at a later date, just bend the lead
apron
up to reveal the felt. There is no need to take the lead apron off, using
this method.

Its easier to do it than write it.sorry for any grammar mistakes

Keith

This is the norm on random stone walls, just extend the joint, it should not
cause cracking. If you are still concerned take the joint out on the higher
stone and put a short capping strip each side over lapping by 150mm over
the 150mm apron. like jump up a course at each end only.you will need wider
lead for this.
The joint if you decide to cut through the large stone should be done with a
mortar raking disc, 4" 1/2 x 3/8th.

Keith.