I've just taken delivery of one of these for my kitchen:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...86362&id=65640
The plumbing aspect is dead easy because the wall it's going on is the
other side of the boiler cupboard, so it's just a couple of holes
through the wall. However, I'm more worried about getting a good fixing
to the wall.

The rad is very heavy - about 30kgs I would guess, without any water -
not something I want falling on anyone's head. The wall it's going on
has been dry-lined (plasterboard on batten). The rad has four fixings,
which are basically hooks which it sits on. I guess the way to fix them
is with some long screws which go through the plasterboard into the
brickwork, rather than with any other fancy fixings which rely on the
strength of the plasterboard. What length screws should I use? Any tips
for pushing the plug home into the brickwork? Any other advice?

"Martin Pentreath" wrote:
I've just taken delivery of one of these for my kitchen:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...86362&id=65640
The plumbing aspect is dead easy because the wall it's going on is the
other side of the boiler cupboard, so it's just a couple of holes
through the wall. However, I'm more worried about getting a good fixing
to the wall.

The rad is very heavy - about 30kgs I would guess, without any water -
not something I want falling on anyone's head. The wall it's going on
has been dry-lined (plasterboard on batten). The rad has four fixings,
which are basically hooks which it sits on. I guess the way to fix them
is with some long screws which go through the plasterboard into the
brickwork, rather than with any other fancy fixings which rely on the
strength of the plasterboard. What length screws should I use? Any tips
for pushing the plug home into the brickwork? Any other advice?

To get wall plugs into holes in the brickwork you would probably need to
open up a hole in the plasterboard large enough to let you se what you are
doing and to use any tools, and opening up a hole will weaken the strength
of the plasterboard. I don't think that is a safe way to fix a radiator of
that weight, plus the weight of water and the force of someone pulling on
the radiator. You might want to consider cutting the plasterboard away where
the bracket and screws are to fit, then screw wooden spacers to the bricks
(make them the same thickness as the space between the bricks and
plasterboard) then glue the plasterboard back in place to the spacers. That
way the brackets will be firmly and safely fixed to the brick wall via the
spacers.

On Wed, 10 Jan 2007 06:27:27 +0000, DIY wrote:

"Martin Pentreath" wrote:
I've just taken delivery of one of these for my kitchen:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...86362&id=65640
The plumbing aspect is dead easy because the wall it's going on is the
other side of the boiler cupboard, so it's just a couple of holes
through the wall. However, I'm more worried about getting a good fixing
to the wall.

The rad is very heavy - about 30kgs I would guess, without any water -
not something I want falling on anyone's head. The wall it's going on
has been dry-lined (plasterboard on batten). The rad has four fixings,
which are basically hooks which it sits on. I guess the way to fix them
is with some long screws which go through the plasterboard into the
brickwork, rather than with any other fancy fixings which rely on the
strength of the plasterboard. What length screws should I use? Any tips
for pushing the plug home into the brickwork? Any other advice?

To get wall plugs into holes in the brickwork you would probably need to
open up a hole in the plasterboard large enough to let you se what you are
doing and to use any tools, and opening up a hole will weaken the strength
of the plasterboard. I don't think that is a safe way to fix a radiator of
that weight, plus the weight of water and the force of someone pulling on
the radiator. You might want to consider cutting the plasterboard away
where the bracket and screws are to fit, then screw wooden spacers to the
bricks (make them the same thickness as the space between the bricks and
plasterboard) then glue the plasterboard back in place to the spacers.
That way the brackets will be firmly and safely fixed to the brick wall
via the spacers.

=================================
The radiator manufacturer will probably specify 3" / 10s screws for this
job. If you use the method suggested by DIY you'll find it easier if you
use hex head coach screws with suitable nylon plugs rather than ordinary
screws. It's much easier to drive hex head coach screws with a
spanner than large screws with a screwdriver.

You can buy the necessary coach screws with matching nylon plugs at the
usual outlets - Wickes, Focus etc.

--
================================
Testing UBUNTU Linux
Everything working so far
================================

In article , Cicero wrote:
You can buy the necessary coach screws with matching nylon plugs at the
usual outlets - Wickes, Focus etc.

All the radiators I've ever brought have included these big
buggers of coach screws in the packaging.
Yes, it is a lot easier spannering than breaking one's wrist.

--
Aidan
Aberdeen, Scotland
Written at Thu, 11 Jan 2007 14:55 GMT, but posted later.

Thanks to all for the advice - as ever after a visit to uk.d-i-y I feel
much wiser.

I'm planning to follow the advice to use a 25mm broomstick for spacers
after first drilling a hole in the plasterboard with a 25mm spade bit.
The brackets are more than big enough to cover this all up for a neat
finish. Then (having drilled a clearance hole through the broomstick)
I'm intending to use some "multi monti" straight-to-brickwork screws
(no plugs neeed):
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...44754&id=54236

I'll report back on progress, although these little projects always
seem to sit around for a couple of weeks before I actually do them
(partly because I need to build up another £45 order for Screwfix free
delivery).

Cheers!

Martin

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
DIY wrote:

"Martin Pentreath" wrote:
I've just taken delivery of one of these for my kitchen:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...86362&id=65640
The plumbing aspect is dead easy because the wall it's going on is
the other side of the boiler cupboard, so it's just a couple of holes
through the wall. However, I'm more worried about getting a good
fixing to the wall.

The rad is very heavy - about 30kgs I would guess, without any water
- not something I want falling on anyone's head. The wall it's going
on has been dry-lined (plasterboard on batten). The rad has four
fixings, which are basically hooks which it sits on. I guess the way
to fix them is with some long screws which go through the
plasterboard into the brickwork, rather than with any other fancy
fixings which rely on the strength of the plasterboard. What length
screws should I use? Any tips for pushing the plug home into the
brickwork? Any other advice?

To get wall plugs into holes in the brickwork you would probably need
to open up a hole in the plasterboard large enough to let you se what
you are doing and to use any tools, and opening up a hole will weaken
the strength of the plasterboard. I don't think that is a safe way to
fix a radiator of that weight, plus the weight of water and the force
of someone pulling on the radiator. You might want to consider
cutting the plasterboard away where the bracket and screws are to
fit, then screw wooden spacers to the bricks (make them the same
thickness as the space between the bricks and plasterboard) then glue
the plasterboard back in place to the spacers. That way the brackets
will be firmly and safely fixed to the brick wall via the spacers.

I would *almost* do that, but with a slight variation.

Simply cut a 1" hole in the plasterboard (centred on the screw position)
with a hole cutter. Then make a spacer by cutting a piece of 1" broom-stick
to the right length to extend from the brick to the top surface of the
plasterboard. Drill a clearance hole in the spacer for the screw. You will
be able to insert a plug into the brick through the 1" hole in the
plasterboard. Simply assemble the spacer onto the screw, behind the bracket,
and screw the screw into the plug. You will them have a firm fixing, with
the bracket level with the surface of the plasterboard.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

Martin Pentreath wrote:

I've just taken delivery of one of these for my kitchen:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...86362&id=65640
However, I'm more worried about getting a good fixing to the wall.

Or you could see our local builders merchant and get some special bolts
that screw direct into concrete/brick etc. You'll need to get the
correct size drill to make an initial hole in the brickwork then these
wallbolts go straight in without plugs, they're very strong. This way,
as long as you ensure you do get into the brickwork, you won't need to
open up the plasterboard

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
steve-l wrote:

Martin Pentreath wrote:

I've just taken delivery of one of these for my kitchen:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...86362&id=65640
However, I'm more worried about getting a good fixing to the wall.

Or you could see our local builders merchant and get some special
bolts that screw direct into concrete/brick etc. You'll need to get
the correct size drill to make an initial hole in the brickwork then
these wallbolts go straight in without plugs, they're very strong.
This way, as long as you ensure you do get into the brickwork, you
won't need to open up the plasterboard

Sorry, that's not true!

There's no problem with straight-to-brick bolts *but*, in order to get a
firm fixing, the screw or bolt needs to be tight so that it holds the
bracket firmly against something solid - so that the weight is supported
more by friction between bracket and wall than it is by shear in the bolt.

If the bracket is simply against plasterboard with an air gap behind it, the
plasterboard will distort - and probably crack - and you'll never get it
properly tight. That's why you need to remove a small bit of plasterboard
and fit a spacer.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

As long as the rawl plugs are long enough then just drill hand hammer them
flush to the plasterboard. As long as they have about three inches of
purchase into the wall they it will be fine. Just make sure you don't make
the hole with too big a masonry bit.

I have just hung a 50kg radiator in such a way and it is so well on the
wall that you could lassoo a rope on it and abseil from it !

KS


"Martin Pentreath" wrote in message
ups.com...
I've just taken delivery of one of these for my kitchen:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...86362&id=65640
The plumbing aspect is dead easy because the wall it's going on is the
other side of the boiler cupboard, so it's just a couple of holes
through the wall. However, I'm more worried about getting a good fixing
to the wall.

The rad is very heavy - about 30kgs I would guess, without any water -
not something I want falling on anyone's head. The wall it's going on
has been dry-lined (plasterboard on batten). The rad has four fixings,
which are basically hooks which it sits on. I guess the way to fix them
is with some long screws which go through the plasterboard into the
brickwork, rather than with any other fancy fixings which rely on the
strength of the plasterboard. What length screws should I use? Any tips
for pushing the plug home into the brickwork? Any other advice?