Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
Maris writes:

In my previous house I used something called Limelite renovating
plaster for the first metre of brickwork that is usually hard rendered
by the damp proofing companies. It was lightweight and therefore there
was no condensation. It was also non-hygrospcopic unlike Carlite.
Sadly,the company don't seem to be around any more, although there are
similar products on the market, I believe.

Limelite is cement based, and should be avoided in these situations.
Whats needed is porous, so any damp can evaporate away. This means lime
plaster.

I have areas where the outside ground level is too high, and it's
not realistic to drop it. I removed the damp plaster back to the
brickwork. For scratch coat, I used 1:1:6 (cement:lime:sand) with
a waterproofer additive. This can breath

very little, you've got tanking there really.


NT

Stuart Noble wrote:
wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:

This is where the argument against rising damp comes unstuck. On an
internal wall you can eliminate condensation as the source by increasing
heating and ventilation

thats not a very satisfactory approach, and may or may not be adequate

but, if that doesn't work, what are you left with?

In 99% of cases, reducing RH to stop the condensation. In the last 1%,
salt contamination or rising damp.

And how do you reduce RH other than by heat and ventilation?

The usual start is to look at the sources of the damp. Showers, roof
leaks, boiling food at excessively high settings, all can be much
improved in many cases. Theres also dehumidifiers, which work out
cheaper than ventilation, though some vent is of course needed.


NT

On 20 Dec 2006 09:09:48 -0800 wrote :
In my previous house I used something called Limelite renovating
plaster for the first metre of brickwork that is usually hard rendered
by the damp proofing companies. It was lightweight and therefore there
was no condensation. It was also non-hygrospcopic unlike Carlite.
Sadly,the company don't seem to be around any more, although there are
similar products on the market, I believe.

Limelite is cement based, and should be avoided in these situations.
Whats needed is porous, so any damp can evaporate away. This means
lime plaster.

http://www.cmspozament.com/news-lime...ic-house.shtml seems to
imply otherwise. It's a mixture of cement, lime, perlite and fibres to
stop cracking. And at £18.52 per 25kg bag (on one site thrown up by
Google) not cheap!

--
Tony Bryer SDA UK 'Software to build on' http://www.sda.co.uk

On 20 Dec 2006 09:09:48 -0800, wrote:


Limelite is cement based, and should be avoided in these situations.
Whats needed is porous, so any damp can evaporate away. This means lime
plaster.

Cement does not inhibit porosity - your problems start if they have
mixed in Sika or similar. In any case, as someone wrote, Limelite
contains lime.

Maris

On Wed, 20 Dec 2006 17:41:11 GMT, Tony Bryer
wrote:

On 20 Dec 2006 09:09:48 -0800 wrote :
In my previous house I used something called Limelite renovating
plaster for the first metre of brickwork that is usually hard rendered
by the damp proofing companies. It was lightweight and therefore there
was no condensation. It was also non-hygrospcopic unlike Carlite.
Sadly,the company don't seem to be around any more, although there are
similar products on the market, I believe.

Limelite is cement based, and should be avoided in these situations.
Whats needed is porous, so any damp can evaporate away. This means
lime plaster.

http://www.cmspozament.com/news-lime...ic-house.shtml seems to
imply otherwise. It's a mixture of cement, lime, perlite and fibres to
stop cracking. And at £18.52 per 25kg bag (on one site thrown up by
Google) not cheap!

It was never cheap!

Maris

Tony Bryer wrote:
On 20 Dec 2006 09:09:48 -0800 wrote :

In my previous house I used something called Limelite renovating
plaster for the first metre of brickwork that is usually hard rendered
by the damp proofing companies. It was lightweight and therefore there
was no condensation. It was also non-hygrospcopic unlike Carlite.
Sadly,the company don't seem to be around any more, although there are
similar products on the market, I believe.

Limelite is cement based, and should be avoided in these situations.
Whats needed is porous, so any damp can evaporate away. This means
lime plaster.

http://www.cmspozament.com/news-lime...ic-house.shtml seems to
imply otherwise. It's a mixture of cement, lime, perlite and fibres to
stop cracking. And at £18.52 per 25kg bag (on one site thrown up by
Google) not cheap!

I read the page and it doesnt say the opposite at all, it confirms its
cement based, as you just have yourself. It also confirms its lack of
breathability.

Lime and sand are £6 and £1-2 a bag respectively, and will not do the
long term damage to soft brick and stone that cements often do. Being
genuinely breathable they will allow evaporation, which is enough to
keep most damp walls dry. To maintain this evaporation of any dampness
one should avoid non-porous coatings such as emulsion, instead using
distemper or similar.

I could talk about the use of EML and its effects on cracking, but
enough for one post. In short one should not assume that everyone
claiming conservation expertise actually has it, nor that what they do
have is sufficient to choose the best options in any given situation.
Even today there are still companies cement rendering wood framed
buldings.


NT

On 18 Dec 2006 07:50:17 -0800, wrote:

Maris wrote:

I have a similar damp problem here in the house I bought last
February. I knew about it but the price reflected it. Investigating
further I discovered that attempts had been made to damp proof the one
wall in question (from lots of holes drilled) but had clearly failed.
I had another go and the very expensive damp prooof liquid just
drained away between the mortar joints which had long turned to dust.
Most damp proof companies also rerender using damp proof render, which
is tantamount to an admission that the damp proofing exercise is a
waste of time and they are simply sealing in the damp. The only
problem is that the render is so dense that it encourages condensation
and so we are back to a damp problem!!!

Maris

If you want to solve it try
http://periodpropertyshop.co.uk/phpB...wforum.php?f=1


NT

Someone is going to pull us up for off-topic soon (well uk.legal,
anyway)!
Just found a very useful thread discussing the various plastering
options on www.ebuilding.co.uk, which seems to be a very useful
website. Anyway, the forum was:-
http://www.ebuild.co.uk/cgi-bin/foru...3414&page=6328

Maris

On 20 Dec 2006 10:59:28 -0800, wrote:

Tony Bryer wrote:
On 20 Dec 2006 09:09:48 -0800 wrote :
http://www.cmspozament.com/news-lime...ic-house.shtml seems to
imply otherwise. It's a mixture of cement, lime, perlite and fibres to
stop cracking. And at £18.52 per 25kg bag (on one site thrown up by
Google) not cheap!

I read the page and it doesnt say the opposite at all, it confirms its
cement based, as you just have yourself. It also confirms its lack of
breathability.

Where did you see the bit about lack of breathability? All I can see
in the item referred to is designed to 'control damp passing through
walls'. Are you assuming that means blocks it entirely?
Had a more in depth look at the www.ebuilding.co.uk website and it is
awesome in the debates on dampproofing. Limelite, of course, is
mentioned frequently. Also got to hear about Dryzone for the first
time. I thought that something like that existed but couldn't find
anything till now.

Lime and sand are £6 and £1-2 a bag respectively, and will not do the
long term damage to soft brick and stone that cements often do. Being
genuinely breathable they will allow evaporation, which is enough to
keep most damp walls dry. To maintain this evaporation of any dampness
one should avoid non-porous coatings such as emulsion, instead using
distemper or similar.

Wrong. Avoid vinyl-based emulsion. My lower ground floor problem room
is painted with this crap and it's a bugger to get off.

I could talk about the use of EML and its effects on cracking, but
enough for one post. In short one should not assume that everyone
claiming conservation expertise actually has it, nor that what they do
have is sufficient to choose the best options in any given situation.
Even today there are still companies cement rendering wood framed
buldings.


NT

Maris

Maris wrote:
On 20 Dec 2006 10:59:28 -0800, wrote:
Tony Bryer wrote:
On 20 Dec 2006 09:09:48 -0800 wrote :

http://www.cmspozament.com/news-lime...ic-house.shtml seems to
imply otherwise. It's a mixture of cement, lime, perlite and fibres to
stop cracking. And at £18.52 per 25kg bag (on one site thrown up by
Google) not cheap!

I read the page and it doesnt say the opposite at all, it confirms its
cement based, as you just have yourself. It also confirms its lack of
breathability.

Where did you see the bit about lack of breathability?

elsewhere, cement based renders have too little porosity to be
realistically described as breathable.

All I can see
in the item referred to is designed to 'control damp passing through
walls'. Are you assuming that means blocks it entirely?
Had a more in depth look at the www.ebuilding.co.uk website and it is
awesome in the debates on dampproofing.

heh, its one of those topics that never ends.


Lime and sand are £6 and £1-2 a bag respectively, and will not do the
long term damage to soft brick and stone that cements often do. Being
genuinely breathable they will allow evaporation, which is enough to
keep most damp walls dry. To maintain this evaporation of any dampness
one should avoid non-porous coatings such as emulsion, instead using
distemper or similar.

Wrong. Avoid vinyl-based emulsion. My lower ground floor problem room
is painted with this crap and it's a bugger to get off.

I thought thats what I just said


NT

Maris wrote:
On 20 Dec 2006 09:09:48 -0800, wrote:

Limelite is cement based, and should be avoided in these situations.
Whats needed is porous, so any damp can evaporate away. This means lime
plaster.

Cement does not inhibit porosity

yes it does

- your problems start if they have
mixed in Sika or similar.

even worse

In any case, as someone wrote, Limelite
contains lime.

and cement. Cement content reduces water movement. Cement lime mixes do
not have anywher near the porosity of lime mortars.

Ask SPAB or period property forum etc about ime and cement.


NT

In article . com,
writes:
Tony Bryer wrote:
On 20 Dec 2006 09:09:48 -0800 wrote :
In my previous house I used something called Limelite renovating
plaster for the first metre of brickwork that is usually hard rendered
by the damp proofing companies. It was lightweight and therefore there
was no condensation. It was also non-hygrospcopic unlike Carlite.
Sadly,the company don't seem to be around any more, although there are
similar products on the market, I believe.
Limelite is cement based, and should be avoided in these situations.
Whats needed is porous, so any damp can evaporate away. This means
lime plaster.

Breathability and porosity of cement based mortar depends on the
cement strength. At 1:6, there's no problem, but you need to add
a waterproofer to prevent the pores also wicking water through.
(Contrary to what you suggested, this won't work as tanking, as
any significant pressure of water will pass through the pores
regardless of their water repelling coating.)

genuinely breathable they will allow evaporation, which is enough to
keep most damp walls dry. To maintain this evaporation of any dampness
one should avoid non-porous coatings such as emulsion, instead using
distemper or similar.

Matt emulsion is breathable (vinyl isn't).

--
Andrew Gabriel

Maris wrote:
On 20 Dec 2006 09:09:48 -0800, wrote:

Limelite is cement based, and should be avoided in these situations.
Whats needed is porous, so any damp can evaporate away. This means lime
plaster.

Cement does not inhibit porosity

Enough of it does..

- your problems start if they have
mixed in Sika or similar. In any case, as someone wrote, Limelite
contains lime.

Maris