Hi All,

The new cylinder has arrived and I will be fitting it this
weekend. The only problem is that I dont kow how high
up on the new cylinder to fit the thermostat!
From top to bottom the height is about 1.2m and
its got a substantial quick recovery coil.

Im going to refit the existing British Gas thermostat
so wanted to know where to put it.

BTW Ive noticed on the boiler return from the cylinder
(next to the cylinder) is a 22mm gate valve. At the
moment this is fully open. Is this needed for anything
particular?

Thanks,
Matthew

On 5 Dec 2006 04:22:24 -0800, "Matthew" wrote:

Hi All,

The new cylinder has arrived and I will be fitting it this
weekend. The only problem is that I dont kow how high
up on the new cylinder to fit the thermostat!
From top to bottom the height is about 1.2m and
its got a substantial quick recovery coil.

Im going to refit the existing British Gas thermostat
so wanted to know where to put it.

BTW Ive noticed on the boiler return from the cylinder
(next to the cylinder) is a 22mm gate valve. At the
moment this is fully open. Is this needed for anything
particular?

Thanks,
Matthew

Don't know anything about the cylinder but if you do need a valve on
it, dump the gate valve. They are total crap and will seize up after a
short time and need replacing. (Always in the emregency you need
them).

Replace it with a full bore guarter turn lever valve.

"Matthew" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi All,

The new cylinder has arrived and I will be fitting it this
weekend. The only problem is that I dont kow how high
up on the new cylinder to fit the thermostat!
From top to bottom the height is about 1.2m and
its got a substantial quick recovery coil.





I fitted ours at a height halfway between the flow and return for the coil.
It was specified thus on either the cylinder or thermostat instructions.

H

On 5 Dec 2006 04:22:24 -0800 someone who may be "Matthew"
wrote this:-

The new cylinder has arrived and I will be fitting it this
weekend. The only problem is that I dont kow how high
up on the new cylinder to fit the thermostat!
From top to bottom the height is about 1.2m and
its got a substantial quick recovery coil.

Half to two thirds of the way down. The best position depends on
your particular circumstances.



--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

On Tue, 05 Dec 2006 12:31:23 GMT someone who may be EricP
wrote this:-

Don't know anything about the cylinder but if you do need a valve on
it, dump the gate valve. They are total crap and will seize up after a
short time and need replacing.

Will they? Provided such valves are maintained properly (fully open
and close them, leave them a quarter turn instead of fully open)
they remain workable for decades.


--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Matthew wrote:

Hi All,

The new cylinder has arrived and I will be fitting it this
weekend. The only problem is that I dont kow how high
up on the new cylinder to fit the thermostat!
From top to bottom the height is about 1.2m and
its got a substantial quick recovery coil.

Im going to refit the existing British Gas thermostat
so wanted to know where to put it.

BTW Ive noticed on the boiler return from the cylinder
(next to the cylinder) is a 22mm gate valve. At the
moment this is fully open. Is this needed for anything
particular?

Thanks,
Matthew

The stat needs to be lowish - mine is about 1/3 of the way up from the
bottom - otherwise it will turn off too soon while the water in the lower
part of the cylinder is still cool. [Convection will ensure that there's a
temperature gradient from top to bottom].

The gate valve was probably for balancing - to stop the HW from hogging all
the boiler flow when HW and CH are on at the same time. With a fast recovery
cylinder, this isn't really an issue - it doesn't matter if the CH is
reduced for a few minutes while the HW heats up. Better still use
independent timers on HW and CH and try to contrive that they are mormally
*not* both demanding heat at the same time.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

I guessed the valve may be something to do with balancing.

Our surrent system is a Y plan with a 3 way valve.
I have often wondered whether there is a mid posn
i.e. CH and HW at the same time.

Presumably you could have a situ in which the CH
switches to HW if there isnt any and your piping hot
CH water would then be coming out ofyour cylinder boiler
return cold again which presumably is ok?
I think Im rambling but you know what I mean hopefully.

We just have our HW and CH coming on at the
same time although they can be called individually.
What is the best and most efficient way to configure it?

Thanks,
Matthew



On Dec 5, 2:23 pm, "Roger Mills" wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,



Matthew wrote:
Hi All,

The new cylinder has arrived and I will be fitting it this
weekend. The only problem is that I dont kow how high
up on the new cylinder to fit the thermostat!
From top to bottom the height is about 1.2m and
its got a substantial quick recovery coil.

Im going to refit the existing British Gas thermostat
so wanted to know where to put it.

BTW Ive noticed on the boiler return from the cylinder
(next to the cylinder) is a 22mm gate valve. At the
moment this is fully open. Is this needed for anything
particular?

Thanks,
MatthewThe stat needs to be lowish - mine is about 1/3 of the way up from the
bottom - otherwise it will turn off too soon while the water in the lower
part of the cylinder is still cool. [Convection will ensure that there's a
temperature gradient from top to bottom].

The gate valve was probably for balancing - to stop the HW from hogging all
the boiler flow when HW and CH are on at the same time. With a fast recovery
cylinder, this isn't really an issue - it doesn't matter if the CH is
reduced for a few minutes while the HW heats up. Better still use
independent timers on HW and CH and try to contrive that they are mormally
*not* both demanding heat at the same time.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

On Tue, 05 Dec 2006 13:43:24 +0000, David Hansen
wrote:

On Tue, 05 Dec 2006 12:31:23 GMT someone who may be EricP
wrote this:-

Don't know anything about the cylinder but if you do need a valve on
it, dump the gate valve. They are total crap and will seize up after a
short time and need replacing.

Will they? Provided such valves are maintained properly (fully open
and close them, leave them a quarter turn instead of fully open)
they remain workable for decades.

Not in my experience. They are utter crap and to be avoided at all
costs, particularly when more efficient alternatives are available at
same cost.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Matthew wrote:

I guessed the valve may be something to do with balancing.

Our surrent system is a Y plan with a 3 way valve.
I have often wondered whether there is a mid posn
i.e. CH and HW at the same time.


If it's Y-Plan, there *is* a mid position. The alternative is W-Plan, which
uses a diverter valve which gives either HW or CH but not both together.

Presumably you could have a situ in which the CH
switches to HW if there isnt any and your piping hot
CH water would then be coming out ofyour cylinder boiler
return cold again which presumably is ok?
I think Im rambling but you know what I mean hopefully.

Sorry, you've lost me!


We just have our HW and CH coming on at the
same time although they can be called individually.
What is the best and most efficient way to configure it?

Do whatever works for your lifestyle. My HW is timed to come on an hour or
so ahead of the CH each morning - so the tank is hot before the CH starts,
and they are rarely both on together.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

On Tue, 05 Dec 2006 18:18:48 GMT someone who may be EricP
wrote this:-

Will they? Provided such valves are maintained properly (fully open
and close them, leave them a quarter turn instead of fully open)
they remain workable for decades.

Not in my experience.

That perhaps tells us something about your experience. However,
others have such valves which were installed nearly two decades ago
and which work fine.


--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

As you mentioned the problem with gate valves is that sometimes they
are left
fully open and they sieze. If they are used correctly they should be
ok. We have
a couple of original 1970 valves that are ok. The only issue is that
sometimes
they tend to drip slightly when fully shut, not normally a major
problem though.
BTW Lever ball valves should never be used for flow balancing due to
their design
only use gate valves.

On Dec 6, 9:30 am, David Hansen
wrote:
On Tue, 05 Dec 2006 18:18:48 GMT someone who may be EricP
wrote this:-

Will they? Provided such valves are maintained properly (fully open
and close them, leave them a quarter turn instead of fully open)
they remain workable for decades.

Not in my experience.That perhaps tells us something about your experience. However,
others have such valves which were installed nearly two decades ago
and which work fine.

--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

On Wed, 06 Dec 2006 09:30:56 +0000, David Hansen
wrote:

On Tue, 05 Dec 2006 18:18:48 GMT someone who may be EricP
wrote this:-

Will they? Provided such valves are maintained properly (fully open
and close them, leave them a quarter turn instead of fully open)
they remain workable for decades.

Not in my experience.

That perhaps tells us something about your experience.

LOL

My experience with gate valves would be considerably greater than
yours, you can trust me on that point. But I doubt you will because
you always seem to have a deep rooted need for The Last Word. Feel
free. )

others have such valves which were installed nearly two decades ago
and which work fine.

Of course they do. )

On Wed, 06 Dec 2006 13:40:11 GMT someone who may be EricP
wrote this:-

My experience with gate valves would be considerably greater than
yours,

Really.

you can trust me on that point.

I prefer to make up my own mind thank you.



--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

On Wed, 06 Dec 2006 09:30:56 +0000, David Hansen wrote:

On Tue, 05 Dec 2006 18:18:48 GMT someone who may be EricP
wrote this:-

Will they? Provided such valves are maintained properly (fully open
and close them, leave them a quarter turn instead of fully open)
they remain workable for decades.

Not in my experience.

That perhaps tells us something about your experience. However,
others have such valves which were installed nearly two decades ago
and which work fine.

A key aspect is that gate valve should only be installed in a vertical
section of pipe so that debris cannot collect in the gate-way.

--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html
Gas Fitting Standards Docs he http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFittingStandards

On Dec 6, 1:40 pm, EricP wrote:
On Wed, 06 Dec 2006 09:30:56 +0000, David Hansen

wrote:
On Tue, 05 Dec 2006 18:18:48 GMT someone who may be EricP
wrote this:-

Will they? Provided such valves are maintained properly (fully open
and close them, leave them a quarter turn instead of fully open)
they remain workable for decades.

Not in my experience.

That perhaps tells us something about your experience.LOL

My experience with gate valves would be considerably greater than
yours, you can trust me on that point. But I doubt you will because
you always seem to have a deep rooted need for The Last Word. Feel
free. )

others have such valves which were installed nearly two decades ago
and which work fine.

Of course they do. )

Three decades+ in my case.