Hi all.
I should convert my unused loft for storage but I don't know
how to go about it.

www.tally-mo.com shows the floor plan diagram with a key indicating
location of solid brick and lath and plaster walls.

I think all of the relevant information is on the diagram.

Hope you will advise.

Thanks.

Arthur

On Sat, 18 Nov 2006 13:55:36 -0000, "51"
wrote:

|Hi all.
|I should convert my unused loft for storage but I don't know
|how to go about it.
|
|www.tally-mo.com shows the floor plan diagram with a key indicating
|location of solid brick and lath and plaster walls.
|
|I think all of the relevant information is on the diagram.

For *storage* *only* just get flooring chipboard from a shed and lay it
across the joists, fill between the joists with insulation first.

Making lofts into living space is a whole different ball game.
--
Dave Fawthrop dave hyphenologist co uk Google Groups is IME the *worst*
method of accessing usenet. GG subscribers would be well advised get a
newsreader, say Agent, and a newsserver, say news.individual.net. These
will allow them: to see only *new* posts, a killfile, and other goodies.

51 wrote:

Hi all.
I should convert my unused loft for storage but I don't know
how to go about it.

www.tally-mo.com shows the floor plan diagram with a key indicating
location of solid brick and lath and plaster walls.

I think all of the relevant information is on the diagram.

Hope you will advise.

Thanks.

Arthur

I couldnt read much of the text on the picture. In most cases, like
Dave said just put chipboard down for storage. But wise to check joist
sizes first. We'd need to know height width and unsupported span of
them.

I'd add a light for storage use too.


NT

51 wrote:
Hi all.
I should convert my unused loft for storage but I don't know
how to go about it.

www.tally-mo.com shows the floor plan diagram with a key indicating
location of solid brick and lath and plaster walls.

I think all of the relevant information is on the diagram.

As DF said if it's only for storage use these. Smaller size means they go
through the loft door, T&G edges lock them together.


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

The Medway Handyman wrote:
51 wrote:
Hi all.
I should convert my unused loft for storage but I don't know
how to go about it.

www.tally-mo.com shows the floor plan diagram with a key indicating
location of solid brick and lath and plaster walls.

I think all of the relevant information is on the diagram.

As DF said if it's only for storage use these. Smaller size means
they go through the loft door, T&G edges lock them together.

I meant these :-) http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/116420


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

On Sat, 18 Nov 2006 15:04:11 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:

|51 wrote:
| Hi all.
| I should convert my unused loft for storage but I don't know
| how to go about it.
|
| www.tally-mo.com shows the floor plan diagram with a key indicating
| location of solid brick and lath and plaster walls.
|
| I think all of the relevant information is on the diagram.
|
|As DF said if it's only for storage use these. Smaller size means they go
|through the loft door, T&G edges lock them together.

I moved, and increased the size of the hatch, and put in an aluminium loft
ladder, which over the years has paid for itself many times over.
--
Dave Fawthrop dave hyphenologist co uk Google Groups is IME the *worst*
method of accessing usenet. GG subscribers would be well advised get a
newsreader, say Agent, and a newsserver, say news.individual.net. These
will allow them: to see only *new* posts, a killfile, and other goodies.

On Sat, 18 Nov 2006 17:20:25 GMT, Scream wrote:

|On Sat, 18 Nov 2006 13:55:36 -0000, "51"
wrote:
|
|Hi all.
|I should convert my unused loft for storage but I don't know
|how to go about it.
|
|www.tally-mo.com shows the floor plan diagram with a key indicating
|location of solid brick and lath and plaster walls.
|
|I think all of the relevant information is on the diagram.
|
|Hope you will advise.
|
|Thanks.
|
|Arthur
|
|
|
|What ever you do with the flooring I would definitely put electric
|lighting in. I put in three lights all from same switch just inside
|access hatch - means you can always see what you're doing; it is worth
|doing before you put in the T&G loft flooring which others have
|referred to.

Definitely, my one light is useless :-(

--
Dave Fawthrop dave hyphenologist co uk Google Groups is IME the *worst*
method of accessing usenet. GG subscribers would be well advised get a
newsreader, say Agent, and a newsserver, say news.individual.net. These
will allow them: to see only *new* posts, a killfile, and other goodies.

On Sat, 18 Nov 2006 13:55:36 -0000, "51"
wrote:

Hi all.
I should convert my unused loft for storage but I don't know
how to go about it.

www.tally-mo.com shows the floor plan diagram with a key indicating
location of solid brick and lath and plaster walls.

I think all of the relevant information is on the diagram.

Hope you will advise.

Thanks.

Arthur



What ever you do with the flooring I would definitely put electric
lighting in. I put in three lights all from same switch just inside
access hatch - means you can always see what you're doing; it is worth
doing before you put in the T&G loft flooring which others have
referred to.

The message
from Scream contains these words:

What ever you do with the flooring I would definitely put electric
lighting in. I put in three lights all from same switch just inside
access hatch -

Or better yes, just outside the loft hatch with a neon on the switch so
you can see when you've left the lights on. I fitted ours to the ceiling
by the hatch. Convenient, but out of the way when you're not going into
the loft.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

51 wrote:
Hi all.
I should convert my unused loft for storage but I don't know
how to go about it.

www.tally-mo.com shows the floor plan diagram with a key indicating
location of solid brick and lath and plaster walls.

I think all of the relevant information is on the diagram.

Hope you will advise.

Thanks.

Arthur

As others have said just use normal chipboard down, but make sure there's
enough insulation down first.
A light or two will make things easier as will a loft ladder...on this note,
there's a builder local to me who does little else but this type of thing,
he has a 'package' deal which he advertises in the local press and also on
his van, 15m2 of flooring, a loft ladder and electric lights fitted for
£350, you may have something similar advertised in your local rag? - I
certainly wouldn't go crawling about in fibre and dust, as well as driving
back and forth to suppliers etc in an attempt to save a few quid...he's
probably getting everything at less than half what it would cost me

Arthur
An important question which no one else has covered is whether or not
you have water pipes/cylinder/tanks in the loft space. If this is the
case then you must not put the insulation in the joist spaces if there
is going to be pipework above this. The reason being that the loft will
then not get any heat from down below and you will run the risk of
pipes is the loft freezing and bursting. All other advice is sound
however, as is the insulation so long as the above is taken into
account.
Calum Sabey
(NewArk Traditional Kitchens 01556 690544)

"51" wrote in message
...
Hi all.
I should convert my unused loft for storage but I don't know
how to go about it.

www.tally-mo.com shows the floor plan diagram with a key indicating
location of solid brick and lath and plaster walls.

I think all of the relevant information is on the diagram.

Hope you will advise.

Thanks.

Arthur



Great stuff. Thanks to all.

Arthur

51 wrote:
"51" wrote in message
...
Hi all.
I should convert my unused loft for storage but I don't know
how to go about it.

www.tally-mo.com shows the floor plan diagram with a key indicating
location of solid brick and lath and plaster walls.

I think all of the relevant information is on the diagram.

Hope you will advise.

Great stuff. Thanks to all.

The first thing you need to know is that the ceiling beams will take
the weight you are going to putting in there. Chip board is rather
heavy for your needs.

If you are going to store fairly litle or a lot of fairly light stuff
then 3/8 boards will suffice. There is no need for much interlocking
and no need for joist noggin supports either -as long as you tread
carefully.

A couple of zinc plated well greased, pre-drilled 1" tens in each board
will stop it walking. I advice grease as you might want to remove them
one day. If you can get laths up there you can screw 2 x1's or even 2x
2's alongside the joists to strengthen them.

I imagine that would be a right pig of a job though.

They will be 3 x 2's and really unsuitable for anything more than
holding up the lath and plaster. You might want to consider reinforcing
the lath and plasterwork with a pour of skim from above?

Why not buy a shed?

How large a size of board can you get up there? You could cut a ply
board into strips that will go up easily enough. And they will have the
advantage of reaching across all the joists which will e in imperial
not metric.

"Weatherlawyer" wrote in message
oups.com...

51 wrote:
"51" wrote in message
...
Hi all.
I should convert my unused loft for storage but I don't know
how to go about it.

www.tally-mo.com shows the floor plan diagram with a key indicating
location of solid brick and lath and plaster walls.

I think all of the relevant information is on the diagram.

Hope you will advise.

Great stuff. Thanks to all.

The first thing you need to know is that the ceiling beams will take
the weight you are going to putting in there. Chip board is rather
heavy for your needs.

If you are going to store fairly litle or a lot of fairly light stuff
then 3/8 boards will suffice. There is no need for much interlocking
and no need for joist noggin supports either -as long as you tread
carefully.

A couple of zinc plated well greased, pre-drilled 1" tens in each board
will stop it walking. I advice grease as you might want to remove them
one day. If you can get laths up there you can screw 2 x1's or even 2x
2's alongside the joists to strengthen them.

I imagine that would be a right pig of a job though.

They will be 3 x 2's and really unsuitable for anything more than
holding up the lath and plaster. You might want to consider reinforcing
the lath and plasterwork with a pour of skim from above?

Why not buy a shed?

How large a size of board can you get up there? You could cut a ply
board into strips that will go up easily enough. And they will have the
advantage of reaching across all the joists which will e in imperial
not metric.


I think I will have to bring down the (front bedroom) L & P ceiling at some
stage
as it doesn't look very sound. The area above this ceiling is where the
best headroom is
so when I bring it down I might strengthen the joists.

Arthur

Phil L wrote:

As others have said just use normal chipboard down, but make sure
there's enough insulation down first.
A light or two will make things easier as will a loft ladder...on
this note, there's a builder local to me who does little else but
this type of thing, he has a 'package' deal which he advertises in
the local press and also on his van, 15m2 of flooring, a loft ladder
and electric lights fitted for £350, you may have something similar
advertised in your local rag? - I certainly wouldn't go crawling
about in fibre and dust, as well as driving back and forth to
suppliers etc in an attempt to save a few quid...he's probably
getting everything at less than half what it would cost me

Looking at local prices that's £60 for chipboard, £70 for the ladder & maybe
£10 for the ekectrics. So £140 materials, leaving £210 for no more than a
days labour IMO.

What area is 'local' to you? In SE England a bit more would be acceptable
maybe?

Sounds like a good little earner to me?


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

wrote:
Arthur
An important question which no one else has covered is whether or not
you have water pipes/cylinder/tanks in the loft space. If this is the
case then you must not put the insulation in the joist spaces if there
is going to be pipework above this. The reason being that the loft will
then not get any heat from down below and you will run the risk of
pipes is the loft freezing and bursting. All other advice is sound
however, as is the insulation so long as the above is taken into
account.
Calum Sabey
(NewArk Traditional Kitchens 01556 690544)

Indeed. If possible box pipes into chipboard trunking stuffed with
rockwool.

51 wrote:

I think I will have to bring down the (front bedroom) L & P ceiling at some
stage
as it doesn't look very sound. The area above this ceiling is where the
best headroom is
so when I bring it down I might strengthen the joists.

If I were you I should do that first. This will allow you to do
something to the joists before you aggravate the problem by putting
things in the way upstairs.

If you screw batons the full distance top to bottom along the joists
you will find it easier to plasterboard and floor. It will allow you to
put stuff in the attic ready too. As well as permitting the adding of
another access point if needed.

Plasterboards are metric sizes unless you can get hold of imperial by
special order. So you are going to have to cut every so many boards to
suit. The reinforcing will probably save you this trouble.

Seal the door with duct tape. Prop a strong sheet under about three or
four joist runs or screw though it with batons to hold it. Go into the
loft and saw through the laths after lightly damping it. The plaster
will drop into the sheet and can be removed with fairly little dust.
But there will still be a lot of it.

It will make an excellent soil conditioner for clay soil though.

On Sun, 19 Nov 2006 02:42:49 +0000, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

wrote:
| Arthur
| An important question which no one else has covered is whether or not
| you have water pipes/cylinder/tanks in the loft space. If this is the
| case then you must not put the insulation in the joist spaces if there
| is going to be pipework above this. The reason being that the loft will
| then not get any heat from down below and you will run the risk of
| pipes is the loft freezing and bursting. All other advice is sound
| however, as is the insulation so long as the above is taken into
| account.
| Calum Sabey
| (NewArk Traditional Kitchens 01556 690544)
|
|Indeed. If possible box pipes into chipboard trunking stuffed with
|rockwool.

My tanks in the loft are boxed with 2 inch Polystyrene with an uninsulated
gap underneath to allow bedroom heat to rise and prevent freezing. Worked
fine for me :-)
--
Dave Fawthrop dave hyphenologist co uk Google Groups is IME the *worst*
method of accessing usenet. GG subscribers would be well advised get a
newsreader, say Agent, and a newsserver, say news.individual.net. These
will allow them: to see only *new* posts, a killfile, and other goodies.

On Sat, 18 Nov 2006 20:18:04 -0000, "51"
wrote:

|
|"51" wrote in message
...
| Hi all.
| I should convert my unused loft for storage but I don't know
| how to go about it.
|
| www.tally-mo.com shows the floor plan diagram with a key indicating
| location of solid brick and lath and plaster walls.
|
| I think all of the relevant information is on the diagram.
|
| Hope you will advise.
|
| Thanks.
|
| Arthur
|
|
|
|Great stuff. Thanks to all.

Stick with the thread for a while longer, good stuff may yet appear.
--
Dave Fawthrop dave hyphenologist co uk Google Groups is IME the *worst*
method of accessing usenet. GG subscribers would be well advised get a
newsreader, say Agent, and a newsserver, say news.individual.net. These
will allow them: to see only *new* posts, a killfile, and other goodies.

"Dave Fawthrop" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 18 Nov 2006 13:55:36 -0000, "51"
wrote:

|Hi all.
|I should convert my unused loft for storage but I don't know
|how to go about it.
|
|www.tally-mo.com shows the floor plan diagram with a key indicating
|location of solid brick and lath and plaster walls.
|
|I think all of the relevant information is on the diagram.

For *storage* *only* just get flooring chipboard from a shed and lay it
across the joists, fill between the joists with insulation first.

Making lofts into living space is a whole different ball game.
--

I had the idea of converting to living space a long time ago but dropped
the idea. My slate roof has no lining of any kind so I assumed I would
have to make the loft more water proof by felting or something.

Arthur

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Phil L wrote:

As others have said just use normal chipboard down, but make sure
there's enough insulation down first.
A light or two will make things easier as will a loft ladder...on
this note, there's a builder local to me who does little else but
this type of thing, he has a 'package' deal which he advertises in
the local press and also on his van, 15m2 of flooring, a loft ladder
and electric lights fitted for £350, you may have something similar
advertised in your local rag? - I certainly wouldn't go crawling
about in fibre and dust, as well as driving back and forth to
suppliers etc in an attempt to save a few quid...he's probably
getting everything at less than half what it would cost me

Looking at local prices that's £60 for chipboard, £70 for the ladder
& maybe £10 for the ekectrics. So £140 materials, leaving £210 for
no more than a days labour IMO.

What area is 'local' to you? In SE England a bit more would be
acceptable maybe?

Sounds like a good little earner to me?

I'm in the NW so I expect the amterials would be slightly cheaper plus this
chap probably gets them for less than that if he's buyng 10 sets of loft
ladders per week and 150m2 of chipboard etc....I doubt if it would take 2
men more than 2 hours...they could probably do 3 a day if there's enough
work coming in, the leccies are going to take the longest time so one man
would probably concentrate on that while the other got the boards screwed
down and affixed the ladder

Weatherlawyer wrote:


Seal the door with duct tape. Prop a strong sheet under about three or
four joist runs or screw though it with batons to hold it. Go into the
loft and saw through the laths after lightly damping it. The plaster
will drop into the sheet and can be removed with fairly little dust.
But there will still be a lot of it.

It will make an excellent soil conditioner for clay soil though.

Excuse me for butting in. I have lurked here for a long time and I
pass on all your tips to my husband!

With regard to bringing down ceilings, my sister has had the insurers
in as her celing got badly flooded during a recent storm. Well, to cut
a long story short, the celing was artexed and apparently Artex, pre
1970 contained asbestos.

A specialist team arrived with masks and stuff on just like one sees on
t.v. when a chemical incident occurs. They sealed off everything,
including the kitchen cupboards and took the ceiling down and took the
lot away. My sister was not allowed into the kitchen until someone
came with a meter to check if there was any residue in the air.

My question is, if one buys a house with artex ceilings, is there a
risk to health?

"judith lea" wrote in message
oups.com...

Weatherlawyer wrote:


Seal the door with duct tape. Prop a strong sheet under about three or
four joist runs or screw though it with batons to hold it. Go into the
loft and saw through the laths after lightly damping it. The plaster
will drop into the sheet and can be removed with fairly little dust.
But there will still be a lot of it.

It will make an excellent soil conditioner for clay soil though.

Excuse me for butting in. I have lurked here for a long time and I
pass on all your tips to my husband!

With regard to bringing down ceilings, my sister has had the insurers
in as her celing got badly flooded during a recent storm. Well, to cut
a long story short, the celing was artexed and apparently Artex, pre
1970 contained asbestos.

A specialist team arrived with masks and stuff on just like one sees on
t.v. when a chemical incident occurs. They sealed off everything,
including the kitchen cupboards and took the ceiling down and took the
lot away. My sister was not allowed into the kitchen until someone
came with a meter to check if there was any residue in the air.

My question is, if one buys a house with artex ceilings, is there a
risk to health?

Only if you rub against it - those things can be bloody rough. I wouldn't
suggest eating it either although I suspect the LD50 would be very high.

Cheers

Mark

Mark Spice wrote:
"judith lea" wrote in message
oups.com...

My question is, if one buys a house with artex ceilings, is there a
risk to health?

Only if you rub against it - those things can be bloody rough. I wouldn't
suggest eating it either although I suspect the LD50 would be very high.

My days of swinging from the ceiling are well over! What I meant was,
if one decorates and wets the artex, would that pose a risk?

judith lea wrote:

My question is, if one buys a house with artex ceilings, is there a
risk to health?

Obviously. If there is asbestos there is real danger. If there just may
be asbestos then there only just may be real danger. If you are going
to replace it, wet it with wall paper paste underneath and from above
and wear the necessary masks and stuff just in case.

But I don't know how far back the fibre was replaced by whatever they
use these days, vinyl, or whatever. And there may well be no way for
you to ensure the stuff you have or come across is the safe stuff
without the correct gizmo.

I can't imagine an electronic gauge reading it directly from air
samples. That sounds like a gadget for measuring dust particles and
impressing laymen.

51 wrote:

I had the idea of converting to living space a long time ago but dropped
the idea. My slate roof has no lining of any kind so I assumed I would
have to make the loft more water proof by felting or something.

Turning it into living space is *way* more complicated than just adding
felt!


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 19 Nov 2006 06:23:47 -0800, "judith lea"
wrote:


|My question is, if one buys a house with artex ceilings, is there a
|risk to health?

Not really if one leaves it alone it will do you no harm. The only
problems occur when you turn it into airborne dust. Then breathing in a
*lot* of the dust is dangerous

If you want to remove it as someone said it is a right pain because of
current regulations, which IMO are a bit extreme for the slight risk
involved.
--
Dave Fawthrop dave hyphenologist co uk Google Groups is IME the *worst*
method of accessing usenet. GG subscribers would be well advised get a
newsreader, say Agent, and a newsserver, say news.individual.net. These
will allow them: to see only *new* posts, a killfile, and other goodies.

judith lea wrote:

Mark Spice wrote:

"judith lea" wrote in message
groups.com...


My question is, if one buys a house with artex ceilings, is there a
risk to health?


Only if you rub against it - those things can be bloody rough. I wouldn't
suggest eating it either although I suspect the LD50 would be very high.


My days of swinging from the ceiling are well over! What I meant was,
if one decorates and wets the artex, would that pose a risk?

Not really. The only risk would come if you were cutting it in some way,
even then it is a limited risk given the type and quantity of asbestos
we are talking about.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Dave Fawthrop wrote:

|My question is, if one buys a house with artex ceilings, is there a
|risk to health?

Not really if one leaves it alone it will do you no harm. The only
problems occur when you turn it into airborne dust. Then breathing in a
*lot* of the dust is dangerous

If you want to remove it as someone said it is a right pain because of
current regulations, which IMO are a bit extreme for the slight risk
involved.

Thank you everyone for your replies - I have a Bellday ironing board
bought 1964 and still as good as new, is there a risk from the hot
plate where the iron stands as this is asbestos and if I remove it,
woud that pose a risk?? Advice on how to remove it and disposal would
be appreciated.

On 19 Nov 2006 08:39:20 -0800, "judith lea"
wrote:

|
|Dave Fawthrop wrote:
|
| |My question is, if one buys a house with artex ceilings, is there a
| |risk to health?
|
| Not really if one leaves it alone it will do you no harm. The only
| problems occur when you turn it into airborne dust. Then breathing in a
| *lot* of the dust is dangerous
|
| If you want to remove it as someone said it is a right pain because of
| current regulations, which IMO are a bit extreme for the slight risk
| involved.
|
|Thank you everyone for your replies - I have a Bellday ironing board
|bought 1964 and still as good as new, is there a risk from the hot
|plate where the iron stands as this is asbestos and if I remove it,
|woud that pose a risk?? Advice on how to remove it and disposal would
|be appreciated.

The risks of asbestos on a domestic scale are much over exagerated.
Only on an *industrial* scale it is dangerous.
You are not sure that there is any asbestos there, so put it in a freezer
bag and throw it in the bin. Using latex gloves is a bit OTT.

Not sure what to replace it with.
--
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method of accessing usenet. GG subscribers would be well advised get a
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will allow them: to see only *new* posts, a killfile, and other goodies.

Dave Fawthrop wrote:
On 19 Nov 2006 08:39:20 -0800, "judith lea"
wrote:

|Thank you everyone for your replies - I have a Bellday ironing board
|bought 1964 and still as good as new, is there a risk from the hot
|plate where the iron stands as this is asbestos and if I remove it,
|woud that pose a risk?? Advice on how to remove it and disposal would
|be appreciated.

The risks of asbestos on a domestic scale are much over exagerated.
Only on an *industrial* scale it is dangerous.
You are not sure that there is any asbestos there, so put it in a freezer
bag and throw it in the bin. Using latex gloves is a bit OTT.

Thank you I will do that.

Not sure what to replace it with.

Nor me!
--
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method of accessing usenet. GG subscribers would be well advised get a
newsreader, say Agent, and a newsserver, say news.individual.net. These
will allow them: to see only *new* posts, a killfile, and other goodies.

judith lea wrote:
Dave Fawthrop wrote:
On 19 Nov 2006 08:39:20 -0800, "judith lea"
wrote:

|Thank you everyone for your replies - I have a Bellday ironing board
|bought 1964 and still as good as new, is there a risk from the hot
|plate where the iron stands as this is asbestos and if I remove it,
|woud that pose a risk?? Advice on how to remove it and disposal would
|be appreciated.

The risks of asbestos on a domestic scale are much over exagerated.
Only on an *industrial* scale it is dangerous.
You are not sure that there is any asbestos there, so put it in a freezer
bag and throw it in the bin. Using latex gloves is a bit OTT.

Thank you I will do that.

Not sure what to replace it with.

Nor me!

Just place the iron on its end when you aren't using it and it's hot.
What was the point of those asbestos plates? I just binned my mum's one
this summer and the iron now rests on its end on the metal which was
below the asbestos.

The 1st Philosophical Handyman of the Humber wrote:


Just place the iron on its end when you aren't using it and it's hot.
What was the point of those asbestos plates? I just binned my mum's one
this summer and the iron now rests on its end on the metal which was
below the asbestos.

Why didn't I think of that???

The 1st Philosophical Handyman of the Humber wrote:
judith lea wrote:
Dave Fawthrop wrote:
On 19 Nov 2006 08:39:20 -0800, "judith lea"
wrote:

|Thank you everyone for your replies - I have a Bellday ironing board
|bought 1964 and still as good as new, is there a risk from the hot
|plate where the iron stands as this is asbestos and if I remove it,
|woud that pose a risk?? Advice on how to remove it and disposal would
|be appreciated.
snip
Just place the iron on its end when you aren't using it and it's hot.
What was the point of those asbestos plates? I just binned my mum's one
this summer and the iron now rests on its end on the metal which was
below the asbestos.

I wonder if it originated in the days of non-thermostatic electric irons.
An iron left upright will cool quite a bit, compared to one flat on an
insulator.

I
I wonder if it originated in the days of non-thermostatic electric irons.
An iron left upright will cool quite a bit, compared to one flat on an
insulator.

As I have a day off from the office today, I decided to do the ironing!
I think it is a safety thing, if I stand the iron on end, I notice
that there is a tendency to knock it over and by putting it down flat,
it reduces the risk, perhaps this is the reason, I dunno.