Hi all,

I have finally completed the rewiring efforts to my central heating/HW
suggested to me ages ago here, by Roger Mills, Ed Sirett and other kind
folks. Previously the whole system was controlled by a single crappy
mechanical 24 hour timeclock. I've now replaced it with a Honeywell
Y-plan setup, including a wireless room stat/programmer (CM67), cylinder
stat, 7-day full programmer, and three way motorized valve. The
electrical side of things all works beautifully, exactly as it said on
the tin.

I have one problem though, and it's pump overrun on the boiler. The
people who installed this boiler when the house was built did not know
(or care) about the pump overrun requirement, and wired it in parallel
with the pump :

http://www.pbase.com/thegreatsuprendo/image/55859969

As everyone here predicted, when I run the boiler with the boiler stat
up full, the boiler cuts out with overheat after a few hours, during the
period when the wireless stat begins doing it's modulation. The problem
goes away when I turn the thermostat down to around 11 O'Clock - but
then it takes a good bit longer to heat the house to the 20.5deg temp
I've set on the room stat.

So I decided to change the wiring so that the overrun would control the
pump. I've heard that the Baxis have notoriously wobbly overrun boards,
so I tried wiring up a permanent live to the left hand terminals, and a
60 watt light bulb to the right hand L and N terminals as a test. When I
power it up, I the lightbulb oscillates on and off very quickly and the
relay chatters, sounds like it's on and off at least ten times a second
(have I wired this the right way around ?)

Am I right in assuming that it's replacement PCB time ?

[I've now restored the wiring back to where it was so that I can have
some heat. But now the relay chatters a few times each time the system
fires up, and then settles a second or two later.. it didn't do that
before .. ]

Is replacing the PCB a reasonable task for someone not qualified in gas
? (I don't want to mess with gas-carrying parts. If it comes to that
I'll get someone who knows about it..)

Cheers

TGS

On Thu, 16 Nov 2006 20:17:41 +0000, Geronimo W. Christ Esq wrote:

Hi all,

I have finally completed the rewiring efforts to my central heating/HW
suggested to me ages ago here, by Roger Mills, Ed Sirett and other kind
folks. Previously the whole system was controlled by a single crappy
mechanical 24 hour timeclock. I've now replaced it with a Honeywell
Y-plan setup, including a wireless room stat/programmer (CM67), cylinder
stat, 7-day full programmer, and three way motorized valve. The
electrical side of things all works beautifully, exactly as it said on
the tin.

I have one problem though, and it's pump overrun on the boiler. The
people who installed this boiler when the house was built did not know
(or care) about the pump overrun requirement, and wired it in parallel
with the pump :

http://www.pbase.com/thegreatsuprendo/image/55859969

As everyone here predicted, when I run the boiler with the boiler stat
up full, the boiler cuts out with overheat after a few hours, during the
period when the wireless stat begins doing it's modulation. The problem
goes away when I turn the thermostat down to around 11 O'Clock - but
then it takes a good bit longer to heat the house to the 20.5deg temp
I've set on the room stat.

So I decided to change the wiring so that the overrun would control the
pump. I've heard that the Baxis have notoriously wobbly overrun boards,
so I tried wiring up a permanent live to the left hand terminals, and a
60 watt light bulb to the right hand L and N terminals as a test. When I
power it up, I the lightbulb oscillates on and off very quickly and the
relay chatters, sounds like it's on and off at least ten times a second
(have I wired this the right way around ?)

Am I right in assuming that it's replacement PCB time ?

[I've now restored the wiring back to where it was so that I can have
some heat. But now the relay chatters a few times each time the system
fires up, and then settles a second or two later.. it didn't do that
before .. ]

Is replacing the PCB a reasonable task for someone not qualified in gas
? (I don't want to mess with gas-carrying parts. If it comes to that
I'll get someone who knows about it..)


Follow the book to the letter. It will almost certainly have a PCB
replacement section. Make sure the replacement is a recon from cetltd if
they do one for this model.

By the book, most replacement procedures end with the mantra "The
recommission the appliance in accordance with the commissioning procedure
in sect n.n.". Which you should try to do.


--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html
Gas Fitting Standards Docs he http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFittingStandards

Ed Sirett wrote:

Is replacing the PCB a reasonable task for someone not qualified in gas
? (I don't want to mess with gas-carrying parts. If it comes to that
I'll get someone who knows about it..)


Follow the book to the letter. It will almost certainly have a PCB
replacement section. Make sure the replacement is a recon from cetltd if
they do one for this model.

By the book, most replacement procedures end with the mantra "The
recommission the appliance in accordance with the commissioning procedure
in sect n.n.". Which you should try to do.

Do you know where I can get a copy of the service manual (I assume
that's what you're referring to) ?

In message , Geronimo W. Christ
Esq writes
I have one problem though, and it's pump overrun on the boiler. The
people who installed this boiler when the house was built did not know
(or care) about the pump overrun requirement, and wired it in parallel
with the pump :

http://www.pbase.com/thegreatsuprendo/image/55859969

Although a hanging offence, it shouldn't actually do any damage to the
pcb, you're only connecting live on common of a relay to live on the
normally open of the relay

So I decided to change the wiring so that the overrun would control the
pump. I've heard that the Baxis have notoriously wobbly overrun boards,
so I tried wiring up a permanent live to the left hand terminals, and a
60 watt light bulb to the right hand L and N terminals as a test. When
I power it up, I the lightbulb oscillates on and off very quickly and
the relay chatters, sounds like it's on and off at least ten times a
second (have I wired this the right way around ?)

Am I right in assuming that it's replacement PCB time ?

Yes, it's a pcb fault - capacitors knackered


Is replacing the PCB a reasonable task for someone not qualified in gas
? (

Err ... yes - not many gas carrying parts passing through the pcb (well,
there shouldn't be anyway)

better look at my website

www.cetltd.com

for Solo 3, look for Solo 2 - they're the same pcb

--
geoff

In message , Geronimo W.
Christ Esq writes
Ed Sirett wrote:

Is replacing the PCB a reasonable task for someone not qualified in
gas ? (I don't want to mess with gas-carrying parts. If it comes to
that I'll get someone who knows about it..)

Follow the book to the letter. It will almost certainly have a PCB
replacement section. Make sure the replacement is a recon from cetltd if
they do one for this model. By the book, most replacement
procedures end with the mantra "The
recommission the appliance in accordance with the commissioning procedure
in sect n.n.". Which you should try to do.

Do you know where I can get a copy of the service manual (I assume
that's what you're referring to) ?

I doubt you really need a manual for this, there are no adjustments,
it's simply a matter of swapping over connectors, none of which can be
replaced incorrectly (famous last words)

You'll prolly find the most fiddly thing is removing the plastic assy
which holds the temp pot

--
geoff

raden wrote:

Am I right in assuming that it's replacement PCB time ?

Yes, it's a pcb fault - capacitors knackered

I noticed an earlier message from you on this subject earlier in the
year, where you said that the four-way block (on the right) was the
mains input to the boiler. I'd wired the mains in to the 3-way block on
the left, which is apparently just the pump control (opposite to the
caption on my picture).

I'm just after trying it with my lightbulb connected to the leftmost
connector, and the switched and permanent mains on the right. When I did
that, the trip switch for my kitchen ring shut the power off, so there
must have been a short somewhere.

OK, I think I've stepped outside the boundaries of my competence, so
it's time to stop before I totally bugger it up. If I'd wired my pump up
to this rather than a lightbulb I could have buggered my system and
faced a royal pain to get it fixed.

Thanks for your help in any case. If I get someone round and they offer
to replace the PCB, I'll try to get him to install one of yours rather
than getting a new one.

Regards

GWC

Geronimo W. Christ Esq wrote:

I'm just after trying it with my lightbulb connected to the leftmost
connector, and the switched and permanent mains on the right. When I did
that, the trip switch for my kitchen ring shut the power off, so there
must have been a short somewhere.

Damn, this is going to annoy me. I definitely wired everything up correctly.

The switched live is coming from the wiring centre upstairs, which gets
it's mains from the immersion heater radial, which is just connected via
a simple fuse in the meter box. The permanent live was connected to a
spur off the kitchen ring, which has a trip switch. Is there something
about hooking together the neutral and live of these two circuits which
would have killed it ?

(yes, I know that sourcing the system from two places is dodgy practice.
But it's unavoidable without me ripping my whole house up to run a
proper cable )

In message , Geronimo W.
Christ Esq writes
raden wrote:

Am I right in assuming that it's replacement PCB time ?
Yes, it's a pcb fault - capacitors knackered

I noticed an earlier message from you on this subject earlier in the
year, where you said that the four-way block (on the right) was the
mains input to the boiler. I'd wired the mains in to the 3-way block on
the left, which is apparently just the pump control (opposite to the
caption on my picture).

If you look on the pcb itself, the connections are silk screened on the
board

the three way you can see in your photo is pump L N E

the four way is L SL N E

power to the pcb is via the 4 way connector, it will be obvious when you
take it out

--
geoff

In message , Geronimo W. Christ
Esq writes
Geronimo W. Christ Esq wrote:

I'm just after trying it with my lightbulb connected to the leftmost
connector, and the switched and permanent mains on the right. When I
did that, the trip switch for my kitchen ring shut the power off, so
there must have been a short somewhere.

Damn, this is going to annoy me. I definitely wired everything up correctly.

The switched live is coming from the wiring centre upstairs, which gets
it's mains from the immersion heater radial, which is just connected
via a simple fuse in the meter box. The permanent live was connected to
a spur off the kitchen ring, which has a trip switch. Is there
something about hooking together the neutral and live of these two
circuits which would have killed it ?

I don't think so

It's a solo 2/3 - second only to the Suprima pcb in terms of reliability


(yes, I know that sourcing the system from two places is dodgy
practice. But it's unavoidable without me ripping my whole house up to
run a proper cable )

--
geoff

raden wrote:

I noticed an earlier message from you on this subject earlier in the
year, where you said that the four-way block (on the right) was the
mains input to the boiler. I'd wired the mains in to the 3-way block
on the left, which is apparently just the pump control (opposite to
the caption on my picture).

If you look on the pcb itself, the connections are silk screened on the
board

the three way you can see in your photo is pump L N E

the four way is L SL N E

power to the pcb is via the 4 way connector, it will be obvious when you
take it out

Thanks Geoff. I might have another look at this.

I'm having trouble seeing how to get the PCB out, the wires going
elsewhere in the boiler are short enough such that I can only pull it
out a little bit. I take it I have to remove the cover over the gas
valve on the right side of the boiler and disconnect it there first ?

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Geronimo W. Christ Esq wrote:

Geronimo W. Christ Esq wrote:

I'm just after trying it with my lightbulb connected to the leftmost
connector, and the switched and permanent mains on the right. When I
did that, the trip switch for my kitchen ring shut the power off, so
there must have been a short somewhere.

Damn, this is going to annoy me. I definitely wired everything up
correctly.
The switched live is coming from the wiring centre upstairs, which
gets it's mains from the immersion heater radial, which is just
connected via a simple fuse in the meter box. The permanent live was
connected to a
spur off the kitchen ring, which has a trip switch. Is there something
about hooking together the neutral and live of these two circuits
which would have killed it ?

It won't have killed the PCB, but it may well have caused the trip switch to
trip if it's RCD-based. An RCD (residual current device) will trip if the
live and neutral current don't balance. So if you take live from one circuit
and neutral from another . . .
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Geronimo W. Christ Esq wrote:

raden wrote:

I noticed an earlier message from you on this subject earlier in the
year, where you said that the four-way block (on the right) was the
mains input to the boiler. I'd wired the mains in to the 3-way block
on the left, which is apparently just the pump control (opposite to
the caption on my picture).

If you look on the pcb itself, the connections are silk screened on
the board

the three way you can see in your photo is pump L N E

the four way is L SL N E

power to the pcb is via the 4 way connector, it will be obvious when
you take it out

Thanks Geoff. I might have another look at this.

I'm having trouble seeing how to get the PCB out, the wires going
elsewhere in the boiler are short enough such that I can only pull it
out a little bit. I take it I have to remove the cover over the gas
valve on the right side of the boiler and disconnect it there first ?

If the boiler is working apart from the pump control bit, there may be an
alternative approach which you could take to avoid changing the PCB. That is
to provide the pump with a *timed* over-run of (say) two minutes. You could
do that by wiring it via the type of timer switch intended for bathroom
fans - which keep the fans running for a while after the switched live (from
the light or whatever) has been switched off. Whilst many such switches are
actually built into the fan units, you can also buy stand-alone switches
from the likes of TLC for about 20 quid.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

Roger Mills wrote:

It won't have killed the PCB, but it may well have caused the trip switch to
trip if it's RCD-based. An RCD (residual current device) will trip if the
live and neutral current don't balance. So if you take live from one circuit
and neutral from another . . .

That's what it is.

I figure that if I tie the two neutrals together, the current through
the RCD would be greater on the neutral through the live. Does the RCD
trip in that direction ? (or should I just give up trying to make this
work?)

Roger Mills wrote:

If the boiler is working apart from the pump control bit, there may be an
alternative approach which you could take to avoid changing the PCB. That is
to provide the pump with a *timed* over-run of (say) two minutes. You could
do that by wiring it via the type of timer switch intended for bathroom
fans - which keep the fans running for a while after the switched live (from
the light or whatever) has been switched off. Whilst many such switches are
actually built into the fan units, you can also buy stand-alone switches
from the likes of TLC for about 20 quid.

I thought about your idea and it's definitely a damn good one. There are
a lot of benefits, as it means I can keep the system set up in such a
way that it is isolated from one place, and I don't have to mess around
with replacing boiler bits. The timer they have on TLC can run for up to
two hours which should certainly do. I will look into it.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Geronimo W. Christ Esq wrote:

Roger Mills wrote:

It won't have killed the PCB, but it may well have caused the trip
switch to trip if it's RCD-based. An RCD (residual current device)
will trip if the live and neutral current don't balance. So if you
take live from one circuit and neutral from another . . .

That's what it is.

I figure that if I tie the two neutrals together, the current through
the RCD would be greater on the neutral through the live. Does the RCD
trip in that direction ? (or should I just give up trying to make this
work?)

If the circuit has an individual RCD (rather than a single whole-house one)
it will *never* work if you cross-connect the neutrals.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

Roger Mills wrote:

I figure that if I tie the two neutrals together, the current through
the RCD would be greater on the neutral through the live. Does the RCD
trip in that direction ? (or should I just give up trying to make this
work?)

If the circuit has an individual RCD (rather than a single whole-house one)
it will *never* work if you cross-connect the neutrals.

There is a whole-house RCD but the kitchen ring has it's own, so yup, we
can throw that idea out I think your timelag switch idea is a neat,
simple solution, so I'll probably do that.

Brendan

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Geronimo W. Christ Esq wrote:

Roger Mills wrote:

If the boiler is working apart from the pump control bit, there may
be an alternative approach which you could take to avoid changing
the PCB. That is to provide the pump with a *timed* over-run of
(say) two minutes. You could do that by wiring it via the type of
timer switch intended for bathroom fans - which keep the fans
running for a while after the switched live (from the light or
whatever) has been switched off. Whilst many such switches are
actually built into the fan units, you can also buy stand-alone
switches from the likes of TLC for about 20 quid.

I thought about your idea and it's definitely a damn good one. There
are a lot of benefits, as it means I can keep the system set up in
such a way that it is isolated from one place, and I don't have to
mess around with replacing boiler bits. The timer they have on TLC
can run for up to two hours which should certainly do. I will look
into it.

You certainly don't want two hours! If you were going to set it to that, it
would be simpler just to run the pump permanently. On my boiler (a Mk I Baxi
Solo) the pump never over-runs for more than about half a minute - which is
sufficient to carry away the residual heat - so setting the timer to about 2
minutes should be more than adequate.

This is the one I had in mind:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BGDT20.html

I bought one a while ago to provide a 'belt and braces' solution at a time
when I was getting some unexplained over-heat trips - but the problem went
away (famous last words!) and I've never got around to fitting it.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

In message , Geronimo W. Christ
Esq writes
raden wrote:

I noticed an earlier message from you on this subject earlier in the
year, where you said that the four-way block (on the right) was the
mains input to the boiler. I'd wired the mains in to the 3-way block
on the left, which is apparently just the pump control (opposite to
the caption on my picture).

If you look on the pcb itself, the connections are silk screened on
the board
the three way you can see in your photo is pump L N E
the four way is L SL N E
power to the pcb is via the 4 way connector, it will be obvious when
you take it out

Thanks Geoff. I might have another look at this.

I'm having trouble seeing how to get the PCB out, the wires going
elsewhere in the boiler are short enough such that I can only pull it
out a little bit. I take it I have to remove the cover over the gas
valve on the right side of the boiler and disconnect it there first ?

I have never done it, I've never even seen the insides of a Solo 2 / 3

but hundreds of my customers have, so it must be doable

--
geoff

In message , Roger Mills
writes
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Geronimo W. Christ Esq wrote:

raden wrote:

I noticed an earlier message from you on this subject earlier in the
year, where you said that the four-way block (on the right) was the
mains input to the boiler. I'd wired the mains in to the 3-way block
on the left, which is apparently just the pump control (opposite to
the caption on my picture).

If you look on the pcb itself, the connections are silk screened on
the board

the three way you can see in your photo is pump L N E

the four way is L SL N E

power to the pcb is via the 4 way connector, it will be obvious when
you take it out

Thanks Geoff. I might have another look at this.

I'm having trouble seeing how to get the PCB out, the wires going
elsewhere in the boiler are short enough such that I can only pull it
out a little bit. I take it I have to remove the cover over the gas
valve on the right side of the boiler and disconnect it there first ?

If the boiler is working apart from the pump control bit, there may be an
alternative approach which you could take to avoid changing the PCB. That is
to provide the pump with a *timed* over-run of (say) two minutes. You could
do that by wiring it via the type of timer switch intended for bathroom
fans - which keep the fans running for a while after the switched live (from
the light or whatever) has been switched off. Whilst many such switches are
actually built into the fan units, you can also buy stand-alone switches
from the likes of TLC for about 20 quid.

Err ... you missed the buzzing relay bit, didn't you

and what's the point of ****ing about with a bodge for £20 when I do a
recon pcb for £30 + ?





--
geoff

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
raden wrote:

In message , Roger Mills
writes

If the boiler is working apart from the pump control bit, there may
be an alternative approach which you could take to avoid changing
the PCB. That is to provide the pump with a *timed* over-run of
(say) two minutes. You could do that by wiring it via the type of
timer switch intended for bathroom fans - which keep the fans
running for a while after the switched live (from the light or
whatever) has been switched off. Whilst many such switches are
actually built into the fan units, you can also buy stand-alone
switches from the likes of TLC for about 20 quid.

Err ... you missed the buzzing relay bit, didn't you


I could be wrong(!) but I took that to be the relay which switches the
pump - and which only buzzes when a load is connected to it. So if the pump
is *not* connected to it, it may not matter.

and what's the point of ****ing about with a bodge for £20 when I do
a recon pcb for £30 + ?

It's just that he didn't seem confident about swapping the PCB - plus other
difficulties of getting a permanent live to the boiler from the *same* RCD
as the main supply. My solution ("bodge" if you insist!) would circumvent
all that - providing he can get a permanent live to the pump timer from the
right place!

I agree that it's not ideal, though.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

On Thu, 16 Nov 2006 23:15:56 +0000, Geronimo W. Christ Esq wrote:

Ed Sirett wrote:

Is replacing the PCB a reasonable task for someone not qualified in gas
? (I don't want to mess with gas-carrying parts. If it comes to that
I'll get someone who knows about it..)


Follow the book to the letter. It will almost certainly have a PCB
replacement section. Make sure the replacement is a recon from cetltd if
they do one for this model.

By the book, most replacement procedures end with the mantra "The
recommission the appliance in accordance with the commissioning procedure
in sect n.n.". Which you should try to do.

Do you know where I can get a copy of the service manual (I assume
that's what you're referring to) ?

I've put a copy on my web site.

http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/Solo3PF.pdf


--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html
Gas Fitting Standards Docs he http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFittingStandards

In message , Roger Mills
writes
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
raden wrote:

In message , Roger Mills
writes

If the boiler is working apart from the pump control bit, there may
be an alternative approach which you could take to avoid changing
the PCB. That is to provide the pump with a *timed* over-run of
(say) two minutes. You could do that by wiring it via the type of
timer switch intended for bathroom fans - which keep the fans
running for a while after the switched live (from the light or
whatever) has been switched off. Whilst many such switches are
actually built into the fan units, you can also buy stand-alone
switches from the likes of TLC for about 20 quid.

Err ... you missed the buzzing relay bit, didn't you


I could be wrong(!) but I took that to be the relay which switches the
pump - and which only buzzes when a load is connected to it. So if the pump
is *not* connected to it, it may not matter.

Would you like to explain the mechanism by which a relay buzzes due to
an attached load ?

relays buzz because of what is driving the coil AFAIK


and what's the point of ****ing about with a bodge for £20 when I do
a recon pcb for £30 + ?

It's just that he didn't seem confident about swapping the PCB

It has to be a simpler job than what you suggested

Look at it objectively - changing the pcb is a job which must be
performed hundreds of times a day across the country


I agree that it's not ideal, though.

--
geoff

raden wrote:

Err ... you missed the buzzing relay bit, didn't you

and what's the point of ****ing about with a bodge for £20 when I do a
recon pcb for £30 + ?

Geoff, my problem is that I can't run a five-core from my wiring centre
to the boiler.

In order to make pump overrun work, I have to get a permanent mains from
my kitchen (where the boiler lives) while taking the switched live from
my immersion circuit (where all the other stuff lives). As I've found,
and as Roger has confirmed, I can't do this because there's an RCD
protecting the kitchen ring; whenever the boiler tries to switch the
pump on, the RCD trips.

I'd much rather have the boiler PCB run things properly, but as far as I
can see that ain't possible without me ripping the house up to install a
proper cable - not something I'm inclined to do right now.

Ed Sirett wrote:

I've put a copy on my web site.

http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/Solo3PF.pdf

Ed, you're a gent - but the link doesn't work

On Sat, 18 Nov 2006 11:48:33 +0000, Geronimo W. Christ Esq wrote:

Ed Sirett wrote:

I've put a copy on my web site.

http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/Solo3PF.pdf

Ed, you're a gent - but the link doesn't work

Sorry about the broken link try
http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/Solo3PFL.pdf


--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html
Gas Fitting Standards Docs he http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFittingStandards

Ed Sirett wrote:

http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/Solo3PF.pdf
Ed, you're a gent - but the link doesn't work

Sorry about the broken link try
http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/Solo3PFL.pdf

Ed,

This is fantastic, thanks.

Are there many differences between the Solo 3 PF and the Solo 3 PFL ?

In message , Geronimo W.
Christ Esq writes
raden wrote:

Err ... you missed the buzzing relay bit, didn't you
and what's the point of ****ing about with a bodge for £20 when I do
a recon pcb for £30 + ?

Geoff, my problem is that I can't run a five-core from my wiring centre
to the boiler.

In order to make pump overrun work, I have to get a permanent mains
from my kitchen (where the boiler lives) while taking the switched live
from my immersion circuit (where all the other stuff lives). As I've
found, and as Roger has confirmed, I can't do this because there's an
RCD protecting the kitchen ring; whenever the boiler tries to switch
the pump on, the RCD trips.

I'd much rather have the boiler PCB run things properly, but as far as
I can see that ain't possible without me ripping the house up to
install a proper cable - not something I'm inclined to do right now.

Yes, I see, however, that's not quite all of what was in my mind when I
first answered yes you do need a new PCB, although I didn't say it. Once
your electrolytic capacitors start drying out, once the first shows
signs of failure, others aren't far behind.



--
geoff

On Sat, 18 Nov 2006 19:36:20 +0000, Geronimo W. Christ Esq wrote:

Ed Sirett wrote:

http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/Solo3PF.pdf
Ed, you're a gent - but the link doesn't work

Sorry about the broken link try
http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/Solo3PFL.pdf

Ed,

This is fantastic, thanks.

Are there many differences between the Solo 3 PF and the Solo 3 PFL ?

The ultimate test is the Gas Council Number (GCN) which uniquely identifies
the gas appliance.

Letters in boiler names are a bit like letters in Car models they often
refer to specific features but there is no guarantee of course.

CF = conventional flue.
BF = balanced flue.
RS = Room sealed.
PF or FF or Turbo = fanned flue.
L The boiler complies with part L of the building regs.
HE = high efficicency i.e.condensing.
SE = "standard" efficiency i.e. non condensing.
MF = Multi-flue.

numbers are usually power ratings ( 10kBTU/hr) or (kW).
or sequel numbers (e.g. Kingfisher II).

--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html
Gas Fitting Standards Docs he http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFittingStandards