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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Mirror adhesive OK?
I've got an old 7'x4' mirror wardrobe door which I've decided to recycle
in the refurbed bathroom - basically by removing the glass, cutting it down a bit and hanging it along the complete length of one wall, above the basin. (A la Property Ladder!) The actual glass weighs about 25kg. The wall is a freshly re-skimmed lath-and-plaster job and is pretty solid; I was thinking of sticking the mirror to the wall with some form of adhesive (probably standing it on temporary battens screwed to the wall until it's set). Using screw fixings would be awkward because (a) I haven't got the bottle to drill holes! and (b) the positioning of the holes relative to where the supporting studs are would look crap. So - never having tried this before, is that appropriate for adhesive? What to use?... not sure there's any particular need for special mirror adhesive (unless that's best anyway) in that the back face of the mirror is protected by nylon-thread reinforced plastic film (for safety, from when it was a wardrobe door). Should the plaster be treated first? With what? Thanks |
#2
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Mirror adhesive OK?
In message , Lobster
writes I've got an old 7'x4' mirror wardrobe door which I've decided to recycle in the refurbed bathroom - basically by removing the glass, cutting it down a bit and hanging it along the complete length of one wall, above the basin. (A la Property Ladder!) The actual glass weighs about 25kg. The wall is a freshly re-skimmed lath-and-plaster job and is pretty solid; I was thinking of sticking the mirror to the wall with some form of adhesive (probably standing it on temporary battens screwed to the wall until it's set). Using screw fixings would be awkward because (a) I haven't got the bottle to drill holes! and (b) the positioning of the holes relative to where the supporting studs are would look crap. So - never having tried this before, is that appropriate for adhesive? What to use?... not sure there's any particular need for special mirror adhesive (unless that's best anyway) in that the back face of the mirror is protected by nylon-thread reinforced plastic film (for safety, from when it was a wardrobe door). I just gobbed a load of silicone on the back of mine and let it set over night -- geoff |
#3
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Mirror adhesive OK?
raden wrote:
In message , Lobster writes I've got an old 7'x4' mirror wardrobe door which I've decided to recycle in the refurbed bathroom - basically by removing the glass, cutting it down a bit and hanging it along the complete length of one wall, above the basin. (A la Property Ladder!) The actual glass weighs about 25kg. The wall is a freshly re-skimmed lath-and-plaster job and is pretty solid; I was thinking of sticking the mirror to the wall with some form of adhesive (probably standing it on temporary battens screwed to the wall until it's set). Using screw fixings would be awkward because (a) I haven't got the bottle to drill holes! and (b) the positioning of the holes relative to where the supporting studs are would look crap. snip I just gobbed a load of silicone on the back of mine and let it set over night Overnight might not be enough to set a really large bead of silicone - I'd leave it a week - unless there was a pressing reason to need it sooner. |
#4
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Mirror adhesive OK?
raden wrote: In message , Lobster writes I've got an old 7'x4' mirror wardrobe door which I've decided to recycle in the refurbed bathroom - basically by removing the glass, cutting it down a bit and hanging it along the complete length of one wall, above the basin. (A la Property Ladder!) The actual glass weighs about 25kg. The wall is a freshly re-skimmed lath-and-plaster job and is pretty solid; I was thinking of sticking the mirror to the wall with some form of adhesive (probably standing it on temporary battens screwed to the wall until it's set). Using screw fixings would be awkward because (a) I haven't got the bottle to drill holes! and (b) the positioning of the holes relative to where the supporting studs are would look crap. So - never having tried this before, is that appropriate for adhesive? What to use?... not sure there's any particular need for special mirror adhesive (unless that's best anyway) in that the back face of the mirror is protected by nylon-thread reinforced plastic film (for safety, from when it was a wardrobe door). I just gobbed a load of silicone on the back of mine and let it set over night -- geoff Proper mirror glue is best - sticks well, and doesn't risk damaging the silvering of the mirror. Will take the weight easily. Screwfix sell something suitable. A |
#5
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Mirror adhesive OK?
Lobster wrote:
I've got an old 7'x4' mirror wardrobe door which I've decided to recycle in the refurbed bathroom - basically by removing the glass, cutting it down a bit and hanging it along the complete length of one wall, above the basin. (A la Property Ladder!) The actual glass weighs about 25kg. The wall is a freshly re-skimmed lath-and-plaster job and is pretty solid; I was thinking of sticking the mirror to the wall with some form of adhesive (probably standing it on temporary battens screwed to the wall until it's set). Using screw fixings would be awkward because (a) I haven't got the bottle to drill holes! and (b) the positioning of the holes relative to where the supporting studs are would look crap. So - never having tried this before, is that appropriate for adhesive? What to use?... not sure there's any particular need for special mirror adhesive (unless that's best anyway) in that the back face of the mirror is protected by nylon-thread reinforced plastic film (for safety, from when it was a wardrobe door). Should the plaster be treated first? With what? Thanks I wouldn't glue something of this size and weight onto a lath and plaster wall, it needs screws. Why not affix two battens perpendicular to the studding and screw the mirror onto that? |
#6
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Mirror adhesive OK?
The weight of your mirror is much lighter than wall tiles covering the
same area. The important issue here is to have plenty of coverage over the whole area. I would agree that in an ideal situation you would sink some battons into the wall to have a firm fixing, but understand that this might not be easy, or desirable in your situation. I have stuck mirrors with tile adhesive, no nails, mirror adhesive in the past, all with success. Though in all cases the wall needs to be straight across the whole length to be fixed. My preferred route, however, is to drill holes in the corners and fix mechanically to the wall. Glass companies will drill mirrors so long as they are not made out of safety glass. Calum Sabey (Newark Traditional Kitchens 01556 690544) |
#7
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Mirror adhesive OK?
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#8
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Mirror adhesive OK?
In message , Phil L
writes Lobster wrote: I've got an old 7'x4' mirror wardrobe door which I've decided to recycle in the refurbed bathroom - basically by removing the glass, cutting it down a bit and hanging it along the complete length of one wall, above the basin. (A la Property Ladder!) The actual glass weighs about 25kg. The wall is a freshly re-skimmed lath-and-plaster job and is pretty solid; I was thinking of sticking the mirror to the wall with some form of adhesive (probably standing it on temporary battens screwed to the wall until it's set). Using screw fixings would be awkward because (a) I haven't got the bottle to drill holes! and (b) the positioning of the holes relative to where the supporting studs are would look crap. So - never having tried this before, is that appropriate for adhesive? What to use?... not sure there's any particular need for special mirror adhesive (unless that's best anyway) in that the back face of the mirror is protected by nylon-thread reinforced plastic film (for safety, from when it was a wardrobe door). Should the plaster be treated first? With what? Thanks I wouldn't glue something of this size and weight onto a lath and plaster wall, it needs screws. The weight is distributed over the mirror's area Why not affix two battens perpendicular to the studding and screw the mirror onto that? -- geoff |
#9
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Mirror adhesive OK?
Phil L wrote:
Lobster wrote: I've got an old 7'x4' mirror wardrobe door which I've decided to recycle in the refurbed bathroom - basically by removing the glass, cutting it down a bit and hanging it along the complete length of one wall, above the basin. (A la Property Ladder!) The actual glass weighs about 25kg. The wall is a freshly re-skimmed lath-and-plaster job and is pretty solid; I was thinking of sticking the mirror to the wall with some form of adhesive (probably standing it on temporary battens screwed to the wall until it's set). Using screw fixings would be awkward because (a) I haven't got the bottle to drill holes! and (b) the positioning of the holes relative to where the supporting studs are would look crap. So - never having tried this before, is that appropriate for adhesive? What to use?... not sure there's any particular need for special mirror adhesive (unless that's best anyway) in that the back face of the mirror is protected by nylon-thread reinforced plastic film (for safety, from when it was a wardrobe door). Should the plaster be treated first? With what? Thanks I wouldn't glue something of this size and weight onto a lath and plaster wall, it needs screws. Why not affix two battens perpendicular to the studding and screw the mirror onto that? Nah. Glue works fine. I put up a 3x3 and had trouble getting it off after half an hour. when SHE said it was too high. Never marry a dwarf. As it were.;-) Proper mirror glue is better than the dogs ********, mind you I didnt try licking it... .. |
#10
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Mirror adhesive OK?
Lobster wrote:
I've got an old 7'x4' mirror wardrobe door which I've decided to recycle in the refurbed bathroom - basically by removing the glass, cutting it down a bit and hanging it along the complete length of one wall, above the basin. (A la Property Ladder!) The actual glass weighs about 25kg. The wall is a freshly re-skimmed lath-and-plaster job and is pretty solid; I was thinking of sticking the mirror to the wall with some form of adhesive (probably standing it on temporary battens screwed to the wall until it's set). Using screw fixings would be awkward because (a) I haven't got the bottle to drill holes! and (b) the positioning of the holes relative to where the supporting studs are would look crap. So - never having tried this before, is that appropriate for adhesive? What to use?... not sure there's any particular need for special mirror adhesive (unless that's best anyway) in that the back face of the mirror is protected by nylon-thread reinforced plastic film (for safety, from when it was a wardrobe door). Should the plaster be treated first? With what? Thanks Use the special mirror glue. It works a treat, and fer chrissakes get HER to check it before it sets..You have maybe 1/2 hour during which it needs supporting* before its stuck like **** to a shovel. * e.g. screw a batten to the wall underneath, leave it 24 hrs, then remove and make good holes. |
#11
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Mirror adhesive OK?
Lobster wrote:
I've got an old 7'x4' mirror wardrobe door which I've decided to recycle in the refurbed bathroom - basically by removing the glass, cutting it down a bit and hanging it along the complete length of one wall, above the basin. Is this one of those sliding wall to floor doors? I have a couple which will soon be removed, but thought (hoped!) they were toughened glass and therefore wouldn't be cuttable, or even drillable ... |
#12
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Mirror adhesive OK?
Andy Burns wrote:
Lobster wrote: I've got an old 7'x4' mirror wardrobe door which I've decided to recycle in the refurbed bathroom - basically by removing the glass, cutting it down a bit and hanging it along the complete length of one wall, above the basin. Is this one of those sliding wall to floor doors? I have a couple which will soon be removed, but thought (hoped!) they were toughened glass and therefore wouldn't be cuttable, or even drillable ... Oh ****... But actually, one of the 2 doors is cracked through from top to bottom courtesy of visting nephews playing hide-and-seek (bless!) so I might be in luck. Doors are very old (and do have this film reinforcement on the back), so maybe predate some regulation or other? David |
#13
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Mirror adhesive OK?
Lobster wrote:
Doors are very old (and do have this film reinforcement on the back), so maybe predate some regulation or other? Mine are about 15 years and I think were made (or at least re-badged) by Stanley, they have a greenish colour backing film, and on closer inspection a sticker that says "ACMETRACK please do not remove" is that similar to yours? Do report back on any successful (or failed) attempt at cutting them :-) |
#14
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Mirror adhesive OK?
Andy Burns wrote:
Lobster wrote: Doors are very old (and do have this film reinforcement on the back), so maybe predate some regulation or other? Mine are about 15 years and I think were made (or at least re-badged) by Stanley, they have a greenish colour backing film, and on closer inspection a sticker that says "ACMETRACK please do not remove" is that similar to yours? No my film is transparent; no labels. Do report back on any successful (or failed) attempt at cutting them :-) Will do! Separate but related query: this mirror is in effect going to fit within an alcove-type space where it is constrained on three out of four sides. So it needs accurate cutting. Difficulty is that of course none of the walls are true, so ideally I'd prepare a paper template before attacking the mirror, but I'm all out of sheets of paper 7'x3'. Any alternatives to sellotaping together an entire edition of The Times?! David |
#15
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Mirror adhesive OK?
Lobster wrote:
Any alternatives to sellotaping together an entire edition of The Times?! odd rolls of wallpaper kicking around? friendly with any architects (who have a DesignJet or similar printer)? |
#16
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Ground edges to glass pane? (was: Mirror adhesive OK?)
Lobster wrote:
Andy Burns wrote: Lobster wrote: Doors are very old (and do have this film reinforcement on the back), so maybe predate some regulation or other? Mine are about 15 years and I think were made (or at least re-badged) by Stanley, they have a greenish colour backing film, and on closer inspection a sticker that says "ACMETRACK please do not remove" is that similar to yours? Do report back on any successful (or failed) attempt at cutting them :-) Yes, the stuff cuts fine using score'n snap; it's obviously just ordinary glass. (You then run down a Stanley knife down the back to cut the reinforcing film, like cutting plasterboard). Separate but related query: this mirror is in effect going to fit within an alcove-type space where it is constrained on three out of four sides. So it needs accurate cutting. Difficulty is that of course none of the walls are true, so ideally I'd prepare a paper template before attacking the mirror, but I'm all out of sheets of paper 7'x3'. Any alternatives to sellotaping together an entire edition of The Times?! Well The Time did it's stuff: I Blu-tac'ed about 15 sheets to the wall individually, ran parcel tape down all the joins, then peeled the composite off the wall, pulling it away from the Blu-tac. Next follow-up question! How does a DIY'er achieve the ground edges to a glass pane that you get on commercially-supplied mirrors? Grinding wheel in an angle grinder shudder ? David |
#17
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Mirror adhesive OK?
Lobster wrote:
Separate but related query: this mirror is in effect going to fit within an alcove-type space where it is constrained on three out of four sides. So it needs accurate cutting. Difficulty is that of course none of the walls are true, so ideally I'd prepare a paper template before attacking the mirror, but I'm all out of sheets of paper 7'x3'. Any alternatives to sellotaping together an entire edition of The Times?! David Its important that your template remain xompletely flat, otherwise the dimensions will be out. Therefore the Times isnt any good. I dont think wallpaper would be at that size either. Cardboard would work if you could get a flat piece big enough, but thats unlikely. I'd look at ultrathin mdf or ply for a template. NT |
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