Have power to my Triton T80si fed through Mineral Insulated
Copper-Sheathed cable, some 8 metres from fuse box. This was installed
prior to buying the flat last year. After some redecoration work and
removing old hot air (no longer used )central heating ducting I now
find myself with surplus cabling that needs re-routing and shortening
by approx. 1 metre.
Problems would like help on are :
1. If I cut the cable to shorten it, how do I fit a new new seal and
where do I buy from?
2. Is it a DIY job or is a professional electrician needed?
3. Might it be OK just to loop part of the excess cable in a ducting
void and keep the original seal in tact? I would need to bore larger
holes (12mm min) in the thermalite walls for the re-routing.
4. If decide to get rid of shower all together and install one to run
off the combi-boiler, can I easily remove the entire cabling from the
fuse box?
Thank you in advance for any help with the above.

In article .com, Graham
wrote:
Have power to my Triton T80si fed through Mineral Insulated
Copper-Sheathed cable, some 8 metres from fuse box. This was installed
prior to buying the flat last year. After some redecoration work and
removing old hot air (no longer used )central heating ducting I now
find myself with surplus cabling that needs re-routing and shortening
by approx. 1 metre.
Problems would like help on are :
1. If I cut the cable to shorten it, how do I fit a new new seal and
where do I buy from?

From a wholesaler who stocks them - and not all do.

2. Is it a DIY job or is a professional electrician needed?

Difficult question to answer. To be safe I'll say get a pro in. I use the
stuff and have the terminating tools, and like everything else it's simple
when you know how. And the larger sizes - like you'll have - are probably
easier to terminate.
However, the other gotcha is that there will be plenty of electricians
around that don't know how to do it either.

3. Might it be OK just to loop part of the excess cable in a ducting
void and keep the original seal in tact? I would need to bore larger
holes (12mm min) in the thermalite walls for the re-routing.

That would be the easiest answer.

4. If decide to get rid of shower all together and install one to run
off the combi-boiler, can I easily remove the entire cabling from the
fuse box?

Yes - there's nothing complicated about removing it. Once disconnected,
you can cut through it with a hacksaw. You might find it interesting to
take a termination apart to see how it's done.

Thank you in advance for any help with the above.

--
*And don't start a sentence with a conjunction *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

I have to say, that I quite enjoy doing MICC work, because there is a sense
of skill and pride with, more so than other cable because using it is a
dying art, and you generally get one chance only when terminating it.

Steve

In article ,
Stephen Dawson wrote:
I have to say, that I quite enjoy doing MICC work, because there is a
sense of skill and pride with, more so than other cable because using
it is a dying art, and you generally get one chance only when
terminating it.

Yes - last time I used it was for my Victorian conservatory which I'd
re-built as close to original as possible. It's a lean to and the bricks
weren't rendered, so no way of concealing cables. It's very satisfying to
make a neat job. Found it difficult to get the bits, though - I was using
2L1 bare.

--
*When the going gets tough, the tough take a coffee break *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
"Dave Plowman (News)" writes:
Yes - last time I used it was for my Victorian conservatory which I'd
re-built as close to original as possible. It's a lean to and the bricks
weren't rendered, so no way of concealing cables. It's very satisfying to
make a neat job. Found it difficult to get the bits, though - I was using
2L1 bare.

I hope you kept it away from any potentially damp cement ;-)

--
Andrew Gabriel

In article ,
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
Yes - last time I used it was for my Victorian conservatory which I'd
re-built as close to original as possible. It's a lean to and the
bricks weren't rendered, so no way of concealing cables. It's very
satisfying to make a neat job. Found it difficult to get the bits,
though - I was using 2L1 bare.

I hope you kept it away from any potentially damp cement ;-)

*Damp*? After *I've* rebuilt it? Wash your mouth...;-)

--
*Do they ever shut up on your planet?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.