Thinking of having one of these. I'll be plastering upto it after it's
installed. But how do I fix it securely with hidden fixings on to the
concrete lintel that forms the top of the builders opening. I do want it
flush with the bottom of the opening.

1/ Some sort of rebate.
2/ From below straight bracket flush with bottom surface and screwed to
lintel.
3/ ?

Oh and what is the going rate for a sleeper that isn't going to reak the
house out with creosote or similar.

--
Mike W

VisionSet wrote:
Thinking of having one of these. I'll be plastering upto it after
it's installed. But how do I fix it securely with hidden fixings on
to the concrete lintel that forms the top of the builders opening. I
do want it flush with the bottom of the opening.

1/ Some sort of rebate.
2/ From below straight bracket flush with bottom surface and screwed
to lintel.
3/ ?


Threaded bar all the way through lintel, fixed firmly with nuts. Protruding
bar slid into deep drilled holes in sleeper

Chris

"chris 159" wrote in message
...

Thinking of having one of these. I'll be plastering upto it after
it's installed. But how do I fix it securely with hidden fixings on
to the concrete lintel that forms the top of the builders opening. I
do want it flush with the bottom of the opening.

Threaded bar all the way through lintel, fixed firmly with nuts.
Protruding
bar slid into deep drilled holes in sleeper


Like it; good, simple, solid solution. Oooh I get to use the SDS again...

--
Mike W

"VisionSet" wrote in message
...

"chris 159" wrote in message
...

Thinking of having one of these. I'll be plastering upto it after
it's installed. But how do I fix it securely with hidden fixings on
to the concrete lintel that forms the top of the builders opening. I
do want it flush with the bottom of the opening.

Threaded bar all the way through lintel, fixed firmly with nuts.
Protruding
bar slid into deep drilled holes in sleeper


Like it; good, simple, solid solution. Oooh I get to use the SDS again...

--
Mike W



I'm sure I read somewhere that sleepers where a health hazard due to the
train loo discharging onto the track ? or is that only very old sleepers ?

Pete

"Pete Cross" 1@2 wrote in message ...




I'm sure I read somewhere that sleepers where a health hazard due to the
train loo discharging onto the track ? or is that only very old sleepers ?

Pete


Found this and based close to me.

http://www.railwaysleeper.com/railwa...ench%20oak.htm

New ones can be had untreated and unused, what with them being new ;-)
Since I only want one, 20 odd quids not bad.

--
Mike W

The message
from "Pete Cross" 1@2 contains these words:

I'm sure I read somewhere that sleepers where a health hazard due to the
train loo discharging onto the track ? or is that only very old sleepers ?

Still seem to be able to buy them. The story I heard was because of
bitumen creosote contamination.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

"Guy King" wrote in message
...
The message
from "Pete Cross" 1@2 contains these words:

I'm sure I read somewhere that sleepers where a health hazard due to the
train loo discharging onto the track ? or is that only very old sleepers
?

Still seem to be able to buy them. The story I heard was because of
bitumen creosote contamination.


Bear in mind this is green (unseasoned) oak (and not very high quality by
the look of the photos). If you bolt it to a wall then dry it out with a
heater or fire in the fireplace it's going to move all over the place (and
crack).

On Fri, 29 Sep 2006 23:10:46 +0100, Norman Billingham wrote:

Bear in mind this is green (unseasoned) oak (and not very high quality
by the look of the photos). If you bolt it to a wall then dry it out
with a heater or fire in the fireplace it's going to move all over the
place (and crack).

Isn't that part of the beauty of Oak?

I'd certainly not contemplate putting a used sleeper in the house. It's
not the crap from the train passengers but the tar, creosote and stuff
that will leach out and down the walls, get onto anything that touches it
and the smell.

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message
ll.com...
On Fri, 29 Sep 2006 23:10:46 +0100, Norman Billingham wrote:

Bear in mind this is green (unseasoned) oak (and not very high quality
by the look of the photos). If you bolt it to a wall then dry it out
with a heater or fire in the fireplace it's going to move all over the
place (and crack).

Isn't that part of the beauty of Oak?

Yes

But I'd like it to do that before having to sort out the plaster again.
So how long will it take before I can do the final plastering?
weeks, months or years?

--
Mike W

On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 10:47:08 GMT, VisionSet wrote:

If you bolt it to a wall then dry it out with a heater or fire in the
fireplace it's going to move all over the place (and crack).

Isn't that part of the beauty of Oak?

Yes

But I'd like it to do that before having to sort out the plaster again.
So how long will it take before I can do the final plastering?
weeks, months or years?

It's a real lump of timber it will always move, so without something
flexable between it an the plaster, learn to live with a crack...

Having said that most of the big movement resulting is warps, splits etc
I'd expect to have more or less finished by 6 months or so of the room
being used properly.

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 10:47:08 GMT, VisionSet wrote:

If you bolt it to a wall then dry it out with a heater or fire in the
fireplace it's going to move all over the place (and crack).
Isn't that part of the beauty of Oak?
Yes

But I'd like it to do that before having to sort out the plaster again.
So how long will it take before I can do the final plastering?
weeks, months or years?

It's a real lump of timber it will always move, so without something
flexable between it an the plaster, learn to live with a crack...

Having said that most of the big movement resulting is warps, splits etc
I'd expect to have more or less finished by 6 months or so of the room
being used properly.

Green oak is approximately one year per inch thickness to fully stabilize.

The answer is to wait, and then caulk the cracks. Several times if
necessary.

Or use seasoned oak. Its not that expensive (£30 per cu ft appx)and you
can hack it with an axe or adze to make it 'authentic'