It's full speed ahead with the bathroom refit here!

Took the old tiles of the wall, and huge sheets of the plaster behind
decided it didn't want to part company with the tiles!

....cue a few hours with an air chisel...I have now taken almost all the old
plaster off the (9" brick) walls, just about 5% left to remove...

Now, I was intending on chasing out the (solid) floor to run the water pipes
between the various things in the bathroom, with the space under the bath as
the main distribution point but am thinking the walls may be easier.

The plaster that came off was really thick, I reckon 22mm pipe would have
been lost in there!

How thick does modern plaster go on?

We intend to tile the walls ultimately, so would we only need to plaster the
walls with bonding plaster, and forget about the finishing plaster?

We have a whirlpool bath to go in, we also have one in the en suite, when
this was put in many many years ago, the builders (It was an extension, not
just a bathroom fitment) put a small consumer unit with a 30mA RCD in the
vanity unit to supply the power to the bath - the house already has 30mA
RCD's so this bath has two.

I assume this is not necessary, or recommended, as cascading RCD's is not
good - I plan to take a spur off the ringmain for the bath, but where do I
put the FCU?
I am going to install a fan isolator on the wall above the door, outside the
bathroom, should I put it here so it is near and accessible, but also
outside the bathroom? Sounds like the logical place to me..

Due to the price of copper pipes being stupid, I plan to do almost
everything in plastic.
The only exception may be the feed to the towel radiator, as these pipes
will be partially visible (the pipes will pop through the wall from the
other side then bend 90 degrees so I can install the TRV with it's head
along the wall, rather than sticking out from it (The door may hit it if it
sticks out)

Alternatively, can I install this with the head pointing down, so the
feeding pipes go in where the current radiator connector is in the picture?
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...22547&ts=79547

Anyway, if I do use plastic everywhere, I assume I don't need to do any
earth bonding anywhere? how about if the radiator is connected with copper
pipes, but on the other side of the wall, it connects to plastic pipes (That
then connect to copper a bit further along!?

ta :-)

--

Sparks...
(Not an electrician)

Sparks wrote:
It's full speed ahead with the bathroom refit here!

Took the old tiles of the wall, and huge sheets of the plaster behind
decided it didn't want to part company with the tiles!

...cue a few hours with an air chisel...I have now taken almost all
the old plaster off the (9" brick) walls, just about 5% left to
remove...
Now, I was intending on chasing out the (solid) floor to run the
water pipes between the various things in the bathroom, with the
space under the bath as the main distribution point but am thinking
the walls may be easier.
The plaster that came off was really thick, I reckon 22mm pipe would
have been lost in there!

How thick does modern plaster go on?

As thick as you want it to, but considering you are using plastic, why not
dry line the walls with plasterboard, this will add insulation too and give
a nice smooth face to tile directly onto - most tilers prefer working on
p-board than plaster.


We intend to tile the walls ultimately, so would we only need to
plaster the walls with bonding plaster, and forget about the
finishing plaster?

see above, 3 birds, one stone.

We have a whirlpool bath to go in, we also have one in the en suite,
when this was put in many many years ago, the builders (It was an
extension, not just a bathroom fitment) put a small consumer unit
with a 30mA RCD in the vanity unit to supply the power to the bath -
the house already has 30mA RCD's so this bath has two.

I assume this is not necessary, or recommended, as cascading RCD's is
not good - I plan to take a spur off the ringmain for the bath, but
where do I put the FCU?
I am going to install a fan isolator on the wall above the door,
outside the bathroom, should I put it here so it is near and
accessible, but also outside the bathroom? Sounds like the logical
place to me..
I'm not well up on electricals so I can't advise on this, someone will be
along shortly :-p

Due to the price of copper pipes being stupid, I plan to do almost
everything in plastic.
The only exception may be the feed to the towel radiator, as these
pipes will be partially visible (the pipes will pop through the wall
from the other side then bend 90 degrees so I can install the TRV
with it's head along the wall, rather than sticking out from it (The
door may hit it if it sticks out)

Alternatively, can I install this with the head pointing down, so the
feeding pipes go in where the current radiator connector is in the
picture? http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...22547&ts=79547

Anyway, if I do use plastic everywhere, I assume I don't need to do
any earth bonding anywhere? how about if the radiator is connected
with copper pipes, but on the other side of the wall, it connects to
plastic pipes (That then connect to copper a bit further along!?

You can still earthbond it to the copper piece, the water does the earthing
as well as the pipe material

I am going to install a fan isolator on the wall above the door, outside
the bathroom, should I put it here so it is near and accessible, but also
outside the bathroom? Sounds like the logical place to me..

OK, provided a person working on the bath could be reasonably said to be in
control of the switch. If the bath has a panel that requires a key or tool
to remove, behind the panel would be good.

Anyway, if I do use plastic everywhere, I assume I don't need to do any
earth bonding anywhere?

You need at least 1m of plastic if you don't want to bond the thing at the
end. However, your bath has electrickery, so will need bonding.

how about if the radiator is connected with copper pipes, but on the other
side
of the wall, it connects to plastic pipes (That then connect to copper a
bit
further along!?

Fine, as long as the plastic section is at least 1m long and there is no
conceivable other earthing method to the radiator, such as an electric
heating element.

Christian.