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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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I want to fit a new combi boiler for my office, and I want to do as much
work as possible myself, just getting the final commissioning done by a Corgi. There is a (condemned) floor standing boiler at present, and I want to replace this with a wall-hung combi immediately above, to minimise the pipework changes. Hot water is currently from an electric water heater which will be discarded. The current boiler is about 20 KW and heating is adequate. New combi needs only to supply a sink for washing up, but I did think of adding a shower cubicle some time in the future. Office is ground floor with a handful of rooms. Cellar underneath. I originally thought of a Potterton 24, but I am now more inclined to a Vaillant TurboMax Plus 28, even though this is 25% more expensive. Obviously, this is overkill for the heating, but I want to leave a bit in reserve for the shower if it ever gets fitted. Anybody any suggestions/comments, please? One reason for the Vaillant is that it takes a 15mm gas supply whereas the Potterton takes 22mm. The boiler is quite close to the meter but the gas pipe is only 15mm. Does it matter what the inlet pipe to the boiler is? I was told by a fitter that I needed a new 22mm pipe for a combi, but he never bothered to look where the meter was and how close it is. The max gas flow needed is about 3.5cubic metres/hr for the Potterton and I assume it must be similar for the Vaillant, so I am a bit surprised that the Vaillant takes a 15 mm gas pipe. Looking at the cda calculator, the 15 mm pipe would need a pressure differential of 2mbar to deliver this flow over a length of 6m, whereas only 1 mbar is acceptable. Why is the acceptable pressure drop so low? The burners operate at between 12 mbar and 2 mbar. If the pressure at the meter is 20 mbar, at peak flow, the pressure at the boiler reduces to 18 mbar. Why is that not okay? Do I definitely need to rerun the pipework in 22mm? The present system is gravity fed with a pressure of about 0.25 bar. I would be right in thinking I need to pressure test the existing pipe-work? What is the best way of doing this? I want to flush out the old pipework with Fernox sludge remover/cleaner. Am I right in thinking that I might as well do that with the old boiler in place? That avoids washing all the old crud through the new boiler. Do I need to flush out again with the new boiler fitted, as well? The Fernox is about 15 quid a bottle, so I don't want to (literally) throw money down the drain. What is the best way of getting inhibitor into the new sealed system? Do I just use the filling loop? Presumably BEFORE pressuring the system with water? And can you just pour it in with a funnel? Fitting the new flue sounds interesting. The boiler is mounted on an exterior wall, so a core cutter bit should do the trick, mounted on a big drill. How do you fill in around the flue once it is fitted? Just sand and cement? Sorry to ask so many questions, but I want to get this completely clear in my mind before starting. Thanks Geoff |
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