Having established (to my satisfaction at least) that reinstating a
10'x10' outbuilding will be permitted development, I've turned my
attention to how to go about building it.

Googling turned up a recommendation in this group for "Basic Brickwork
Techniques and Projects (Mini Workbook Series)". Now out of print,
amazon.co.uk had it available for a range of prices from UKP20 to
UKP460 (!!!) but I eventually found it on amazon.de for under a tenner
inc p&p.

While searching, I came across various mentions of bricklaying tools.
There seem to be three commonly available systems on the market.

1. Bricky (http://www.brickytool.com). This is the one that was sold on
QVC. Basically a jig that you lay on top of a course and fill with
mortar, then remove.

2. Wallmaster (http://www.wallmaster.co.uk/pages/How_to_use_W-M.htm).
Another jig, but this one holds the brick while you butter two faces.

3. Catnic Brikmat (http://www.catnic.com/Brickmat_installation.asp). A
guide/spacer system that you build into the wall.

So, does anybody have any experience of (ideally more than one of)
these tools and opinions they'd care to share?
--
Rob

Rob Hamadi wrote:
Having established (to my satisfaction at least) that reinstating a
10'x10' outbuilding will be permitted development, I've turned my
attention to how to go about building it.

Googling turned up a recommendation in this group for "Basic Brickwork
Techniques and Projects (Mini Workbook Series)". Now out of print,
amazon.co.uk had it available for a range of prices from UKP20 to
UKP460 (!!!) but I eventually found it on amazon.de for under a tenner
inc p&p.

While searching, I came across various mentions of bricklaying tools.
There seem to be three commonly available systems on the market.

1. Bricky (http://www.brickytool.com). This is the one that was sold
on QVC. Basically a jig that you lay on top of a course and fill with
mortar, then remove.

2. Wallmaster (http://www.wallmaster.co.uk/pages/How_to_use_W-M.htm).
Another jig, but this one holds the brick while you butter two faces.

3. Catnic Brikmat (http://www.catnic.com/Brickmat_installation.asp). A
guide/spacer system that you build into the wall.

So, does anybody have any experience of (ideally more than one of)
these tools and opinions they'd care to share?

I'd go for the first one *BrickyTool* however thats a pro bricklayer using
that tool in the video. ;-)

The first course of bricks is the most important start of bricklaying,once
the straight line has been accomplished the rest just follow using that
tool will help considerably for straightness.
To get the first run of bricks I would use a long lenght of timber to
follow a straight line with,let the first run of bricks set then away ya
go. :-)

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

In article .com,
"Rob Hamadi" writes:
Having established (to my satisfaction at least) that reinstating a
10'x10' outbuilding will be permitted development, I've turned my
attention to how to go about building it.

While searching, I came across various mentions of bricklaying tools.

I suggest you find a local college which does building trades,
and get yourself booked on a basic bricklaying course of 2-3
days duration. There you will learn to do it properly, and you
won't need to buy any fancy DIY tools.

--
Andrew Gabriel

In message , The3rd
Earl Of Derby writes
Rob Hamadi wrote:
Having established (to my satisfaction at least) that reinstating a
10'x10' outbuilding will be permitted development, I've turned my
attention to how to go about building it.

I am not a brickie!

To make up for lack of training and actual skill various short cuts have
been used.

I made up a *mortar layer tool* because I found accurately laying
plastic damp course straight, very difficult. It does a strip 3 bricks
long and 5mm deep. Progress is by rolling out the dpc. topping with a
thin layer of mortar and laying the next three bricks.

My Readers Digest DIY manual suggested building up a few brick courses
at the corners, very accurately using level and brick gauge and then
filling in using a line and pins. For an amateur, this lead to some
unsightly work so I started using the brick gauge to give the vertical
line as well as the spacing. Over the years, I acquired some suspended
ceiling *T* bar which is strong but lightweight. The *gauge* is a strip
of wood screwed into the corner of the T with saw slots to hold the line
and give the brick spacing. The T edge gives the straight line. Once the
first few courses are set, I secure the T bars to the corners and gallop
on.

I use the next size down from the standard brick trowel. Less muck gets
dropped and you can clean up inside the cavity more easily.

Buttering brick ends is just something to learn. I used some lime mortar
for the first time, yesterday, and was amazed how much easier it is to
use.

Planning is probably the secret to good work. I can't explain this but
you will know when you have made a mistake that more initial thought
might have avoided the problem. An example might be that when you are
working at ground level, it is easy to work either right or left handed.
When you have got to the first lift you can only easily work one way.
Maintaining vertical joints is difficult if you change direction.
etc....

regards

--
Tim Lamb

The message .com
from "Rob Hamadi" contains these words:

1. Bricky (http://www.brickytool.com). This is the one that was sold on
QVC. Basically a jig that you lay on top of a course and fill with
mortar, then remove.

I've got one and it's brilliant.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

Andrew Gabriel wrote:
I suggest you find a local college which does building trades,
and get yourself booked on a basic bricklaying course of 2-3
days duration. There you will learn to do it properly, and you
won't need to buy any fancy DIY tools.

I looked into that, but couldn't find one close enough. Perhaps after
we move.
--
Rob

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
I'd go for the first one *BrickyTool* however thats a pro bricklayer using
that tool in the video. ;-)

The first course of bricks is the most important start of bricklaying,once
the straight line has been accomplished the rest just follow using that
tool will help considerably for straightness.
To get the first run of bricks I would use a long lenght of timber to
follow a straight line with,let the first run of bricks set then away ya
go. :-)

Ta, and ta also to Tim and Guy for the advice / opinions. I'll get one
delivered when I'm ready to start.

I'm still intrigued by Catnic Brikmat
(http://www.catnic.com/Brickmat_installation.asp), however. The site
suggests that you can lay more courses in one go than usual, presumably
because the plastic spacers take the weight of the bricks and prevent
compression due to the weight.

Anybody here ever used it?
--
Rob

"Rob Hamadi" wrote in message
oups.com...
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
I suggest you find a local college which does building trades,
and get yourself booked on a basic bricklaying course of 2-3
days duration. There you will learn to do it properly, and you
won't need to buy any fancy DIY tools.

I looked into that, but couldn't find one close enough. Perhaps after
we move.
--
Rob

==================
Be cheeky - go and watch a couple of brickies working. Much better than the
fancy tools you're contemplating buying.

Cic.


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The message k
from "Cicero" contains these words:

Be cheeky - go and watch a couple of brickies working. Much better than the
fancy tools you're contemplating buying.

I've watched brickies working - and I'm still glad I got a brickietool.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

In message . com, Rob
Hamadi writes

I'm still intrigued by Catnic Brikmat

(http://www.catnic.com/Brickmat_installation.asp), however. The site
suggests that you can lay more courses in one go than usual, presumably
because the plastic spacers take the weight of the bricks and prevent
compression due to the weight.

Anybody here ever used it?

No.

The usual limit on courses (brick) is 5. In practice there are other
limitations.

Cement based masonry mix may be workable for 2 or so hours in warm
weather. A full load in my mixer does about 150 bricks with conventional
frog up laying. Obviously you get more if the bricks chosen do not have
a frog or you lay them frog down.

Within that 2 hours you have to clean out the mixer, empty and clean out
the barrow, clean the shovel, move the line, cut necessary bricks, move
more bricks to hand and drink a cup of tea. ISTR you are proposing a
10'x10' structure. If this is single brick you are close to the length
where a pier is mandatory (experts discuss:-) which takes time: cutting
bricks and checking verticals.

At around 12 bricks per side you might get 3.5 courses.

As a beginner, you are going to be even slower than I am and might do
better with a smaller mix.

I don't recall a *frog up/frog down* discussion here but I am a recent
recruit. IMO the critical part is getting the correct mix. I am still
trying!

regards

--
Tim Lamb