Anyone tried to do this by using some form of levelling compound?
I was thinking rather than fiddle with scraps of timber/hardboard, use
something like wall board adhesive at the time of board application.
Screw board up to level position then tighten when set.

What do you reckon?

--
Mike W

Mike Whittaker wrote:
Anyone tried to do this by using some form of levelling compound?
I was thinking rather than fiddle with scraps of timber/hardboard, use
something like wall board adhesive at the time of board application.
Screw board up to level position then tighten when set.

What do you reckon?

don't forget to "backfill" the large voids with builders foam:

drill hole where there's a void, poke foam gun nozzle through hole
squeeze trigger, repeat until the board isn't ringing any more ;-)

Mike Whittaker wrote:
Anyone tried to do this by using some form of levelling compound?
I was thinking rather than fiddle with scraps of timber/hardboard, use
something like wall board adhesive at the time of board application.
Screw board up to level position then tighten when set.

What do you reckon?

What are you talking about?

On Mon, 28 Aug 2006 06:08:08 -0700, Weatherlawyer wrote:


Mike Whittaker wrote:
Anyone tried to do this by using some form of levelling compound?
I was thinking rather than fiddle with scraps of timber/hardboard, use
something like wall board adhesive at the time of board application.
Screw board up to level position then tighten when set.

What do you reckon?

What are you talking about?

Rip down ceiling
discover joists are not level
new ceiling will be wonky
need to level/true joists
typical method is scraps of wood to achieve this
seems like a levelling compound type approach is called for.
So...
mark joist positions on back of new boards
blob of wall board adhesive on marked joist positions
offer up board
screw till level/true
time passes...
tighten screws.

comments invited...

--
Mike W

Mike Whittaker wrote:
On Mon, 28 Aug 2006 06:08:08 -0700, Weatherlawyer wrote:

Mike Whittaker wrote:
Anyone tried to do this by using some form of levelling compound?
I was thinking rather than fiddle with scraps of timber/hardboard, use
something like wall board adhesive at the time of board application.
Screw board up to level position then tighten when set.

What do you reckon?
What are you talking about?

Rip down ceiling
discover joists are not level
new ceiling will be wonky
need to level/true joists
typical method is scraps of wood to achieve this
seems like a levelling compound type approach is called for.
So...
mark joist positions on back of new boards
blob of wall board adhesive on marked joist positions
offer up board
screw till level/true
time passes...
tighten screws.

comments invited...


Sure..why not? I'd use car body filler..

But scraps are probably quicker...

Mike Whittaker wrote:
On Mon, 28 Aug 2006 06:08:08 -0700, Weatherlawyer wrote:

Mike Whittaker wrote:
Anyone tried to do this by using some form of levelling compound?
I was thinking rather than fiddle with scraps of timber/hardboard, use
something like wall board adhesive at the time of board application.
Screw board up to level position then tighten when set.

What do you reckon?
What are you talking about?

Rip down ceiling
discover joists are not level
new ceiling will be wonky
need to level/true joists
typical method is scraps of wood to achieve this
seems like a levelling compound type approach is called for.
So...
mark joist positions on back of new boards
blob of wall board adhesive on marked joist positions
offer up board
screw till level/true
time passes...

and levelling compound slumps a little

tighten screws.

Board goes up further than you thought

comments invited...


The principle is fine but the consistency of your adhesive would have to
be spot on. What happens if you overtighten the screw and then want to
loosen it a bit? Will the blob adjust in an orderly fashion? I think
I'll stick to scraps of this and that.

The message
from Stuart Noble contains these words:

and levelling compound slumps a little

Well, rather a lot, actually. That's rather the idea!

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

On Mon, 28 Aug 2006 20:28:26 +0100, Guy King wrote:

The message
from Stuart Noble contains these words:

and levelling compound slumps a little

Well, rather a lot, actually. That's rather the idea!#

Well no I get where he's coming from, but dry wall adhesive is really
stodgy, not like browning, more like porridge. I think it'd be okay in
that regard. Thanks for heads up any how Stuart.

--
Mike W

Mike Whittaker wrote:
Anyone tried to do this by using some form of levelling compound?
I was thinking rather than fiddle with scraps of timber/hardboard, use
something like wall board adhesive at the time of board application.
Screw board up to level position then tighten when set.

What do you reckon?

quite possibly the worst idea anyone has ever had, you and your house will
be covered in adhesive before it's finished and when it is, it will be the
worst ceiling in the UK...the main things which will go completely wrong
a
1) When you apply the adhesive and put up the first board, it may (almost
certainly will) need taking back down for trimming or re-alignment, this is
when half of the adhesive stays on the joists and then later drips off.
2) when you have one or two boards up (with goo betwixt them and joists),
the jostling and shoving involved in fixing the rest of the boards will
cause aforementioned goo to 'level' on top of the boards, leaving gaps.
3) If everything in the earlier stages goes to plan, when you come to drive
home the screws, and the adhesive has set at lots of different heights and
levels, the ceiling will look like a ploughed field.
other than that, I see nothing wrong with the plan.

Seriously though, if the joists are so bad as to need this kind of thing,
maybe it's time for new joists? - failing that, cross batten it in the
opposite direction and screw the boards to the battens, if it's an upstairs
ceiling, it may require additional bracing from above.

"Mike Whittaker" wrote in message
news

Anyone tried to do this by using some form of levelling compound?
I was thinking rather than fiddle with scraps of timber/hardboard, use
something like wall board adhesive at the time of board application.
Screw board up to level position then tighten when set.

What do you reckon?

--
Mike W

=========================
I think it would be better to fasten the boards without any attempt to level and
then skim for a good finish. That is unless you've got substantial differences
inlevel in which case I would long tapered strips of wood rather than small
offcuts.

Cic.


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On Mon, 28 Aug 2006 20:03:20 +0000, Phil L wrote:

Mike Whittaker wrote:
Anyone tried to do this by using some form of levelling compound?
I was thinking rather than fiddle with scraps of timber/hardboard, use
something like wall board adhesive at the time of board application.
Screw board up to level position then tighten when set.

What do you reckon?

quite possibly the worst idea anyone has ever had...

Yeah you're probably right. It was only for a small bay roof not a whole
room, but I'll go for the fillets solution. I don't agree with much of
what you said but there is nothing wrong with tried and tested, and for
such a small area I'll stick with the norm. It certainly won't be a bad
ceiling when I've done since I only do a good job, however long it takes.

--
Mike W

Mike Whittaker wrote:
On Mon, 28 Aug 2006 20:03:20 +0000, Phil L wrote:

Mike Whittaker wrote:
Anyone tried to do this by using some form of levelling compound?
I was thinking rather than fiddle with scraps of timber/hardboard,
use something like wall board adhesive at the time of board
application. Screw board up to level position then tighten when set.

What do you reckon?

quite possibly the worst idea anyone has ever had...

Yeah you're probably right. It was only for a small bay roof not a
whole room, but I'll go for the fillets solution. I don't agree with
much of what you said but there is nothing wrong with tried and
tested, and for such a small area I'll stick with the norm. It
certainly won't be a bad ceiling when I've done since I only do a
good job, however long it takes.

If it's only a smallish area, your best bet would be to affix a single piece
of 12mm plywood over the whole thing and then p-board that, no joints,
lumps, hollows or anything else as the plywood will have taken them
all...the added bonus is that you don't need to find the joists for the
p-board, and every screw is a good fixing which means less
sagging/hollowness.

On Mon, 28 Aug 2006 21:14:43 +0000, Phil L wrote:

quite possibly the worst idea anyone has ever had...

Yeah you're probably right. It was only for a small bay roof not a
whole room, but I'll go for the fillets solution. I don't agree with
much of what you said but there is nothing wrong with tried and
tested, and for such a small area I'll stick with the norm. It
certainly won't be a bad ceiling when I've done since I only do a
good job, however long it takes.

If it's only a smallish area, your best bet would be to affix a single piece
of 12mm plywood over the whole thing and then p-board that, no joints,
lumps, hollows or anything else as the plywood will have taken them
all...the added bonus is that you don't need to find the joists for the
p-board, and every screw is a good fixing which means less
sagging/hollowness.

I can't. The overall thickness is critical and 10mm is about all I've
got. Window comes up right to ceiling and is original thin frames so will
be very obvious if ceiling is lower. No I'm not going to rip out joists.
It is an old house and you have to know when to stop ripping out and start
making good. Otherwise you've gone and knocked the house down.
Thanks for suggestion though!

--
Mike W