Hi all,

Our lath and plaster ceiling in the bathroom has decided to fall down,
so its time to replace. Dust and mess aside, once I've pulled down all
the plaster and laths what thickness of plasterboard should I replace it
with? Also, should I use the foil backed stuff as it is a bathroom?

Oh, I was also wondering what the best way of finishing it is? I am not
too bad at skimming but have never tackled a ceiling which I expect
would be fairly tricky. How does taping and filling work when it comes
to covering the screws? I am aware that you simply tape and fill the
tapered edges at the joins, but am confused as to what happens with the
screw heads where the board is screwed to a joist mid-board IYSWIM.

Thanks in advance,
Richard.

Richard Conway wrote:
Hi all,

Our lath and plaster ceiling in the bathroom has decided to fall down,
so its time to replace. Dust and mess aside, once I've pulled down all
the plaster and laths what thickness of plasterboard should I replace it
with? Also, should I use the foil backed stuff as it is a bathroom?


1.25mm minumum 15mm a bit better.

Foil definitely recommended.


Oh, I was also wondering what the best way of finishing it is? I am not
too bad at skimming but have never tackled a ceiling which I expect
would be fairly tricky. How does taping and filling work when it comes
to covering the screws? I am aware that you simply tape and fill the
tapered edges at the joins, but am confused as to what happens with the
screw heads where the board is screwed to a joist mid-board IYSWIM.

If you get the correct screws and screw below surface and fill, that
isn't bad..taper edges tape and a bit of filler will solve the joins. I
hate plastering too.


Thanks in advance,
Richard.

"Richard Conway" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

Our lath and plaster ceiling in the bathroom has decided to fall down, so
its time to replace. Dust and mess aside, once I've pulled down all the
plaster and laths what thickness of plasterboard should I replace it with?
Also, should I use the foil backed stuff as it is a bathroom?

Oh, I was also wondering what the best way of finishing it is? I am not
too bad at skimming but have never tackled a ceiling which I expect would
be fairly tricky. How does taping and filling work when it comes to
covering the screws? I am aware that you simply tape and fill the tapered
edges at the joins, but am confused as to what happens with the screw
heads where the board is screwed to a joist mid-board IYSWIM.

Thanks in advance,
Richard.

I used the 9.5mm board at suitable centres when doing my bathroom but that
was a false ceiling ,the original being some 2 feet above . As I was lifting
the part boards myself that was another
reason for using the thinner board ....That was awkward enough...I can't
comment on the desirabilty of using foil backed board .

I used tapered edge board and used fibreglass tape and joint filler ...there
is a bit of sanding required but if you are careful when filling the joints
this can be kept to a minimum..

As for the screws ,thats no problem The screws dimple in the plasterboard
paper ( make sure they DO go in properly and straight) and you simply use
jointfiller again and sand it down and they disappear when painted .


Stuart

Richard Conway wrote:

Our lath and plaster ceiling in the bathroom has decided to fall down,
so its time to replace. Dust and mess aside, once I've pulled down all
the plaster and laths what thickness of plasterboard should I replace it
with?

Personally I don't like the 9mm stuff and use 12mm. Also if skimmed 12mm
provides 30 min fire protection.

Also, should I use the foil backed stuff as it is a bathroom?

Foil won't hurt, but once painted it will be pretty moisture resistant
anyway.

Oh, I was also wondering what the best way of finishing it is? I am not
too bad at skimming but have never tackled a ceiling which I expect
would be fairly tricky.

Surprisingly ceilings are not really any harder than walls to skim IME -
as long as you have a way of reaching them comfortably... (which in my
case in a modern house amounts to raise arm above head!)

How does taping and filling work when it comes
to covering the screws?
I am aware that you simply tape and fill the
tapered edges at the joins, but am confused as to what happens with the
screw heads where the board is screwed to a joist mid-board IYSWIM.

Just fill em and sand.


--
Cheers,

John.

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The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Richard Conway wrote:
Hi all,

Our lath and plaster ceiling in the bathroom has decided to fall down,
so its time to replace. Dust and mess aside, once I've pulled down
all the plaster and laths what thickness of plasterboard should I
replace it with? Also, should I use the foil backed stuff as it is a
bathroom?


1.25mm minumum 15mm a bit better.

I'm guessing you mean 12.5mm - I think 1.25mm might be a tad to thin
(although it would be easier to put up!)

Why is that the minimum out of interest? Is it in the building regs?

Foil definitely recommended.

Thought as much - shouldn't cost too much extra as its only a small room.

Oh, I was also wondering what the best way of finishing it is? I am
not too bad at skimming but have never tackled a ceiling which I
expect would be fairly tricky. How does taping and filling work when
it comes to covering the screws? I am aware that you simply tape and
fill the tapered edges at the joins, but am confused as to what
happens with the screw heads where the board is screwed to a joist
mid-board IYSWIM.

If you get the correct screws and screw below surface and fill, that
isn't bad..taper edges tape and a bit of filler will solve the joins. I
hate plastering too.

I don't *hate* plastering, I just don't think I'd do a very good job of
it on a ceiling - especially as there is a bathroom suite getting in the
way of me ladders

Richard Conway wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Richard Conway wrote:
Hi all,

Our lath and plaster ceiling in the bathroom has decided to fall
down, so its time to replace. Dust and mess aside, once I've pulled
down all the plaster and laths what thickness of plasterboard should
I replace it with? Also, should I use the foil backed stuff as it is
a bathroom?


1.25mm minumum 15mm a bit better.

I'm guessing you mean 12.5mm - I think 1.25mm might be a tad to thin
(although it would be easier to put up!)

Why is that the minimum out of interest? Is it in the building regs?

Yep typo.

I find the thinner stuff breaks too eish sort of solution.



Foil definitely recommended.

Thought as much - shouldn't cost too much extra as its only a small room.


Its peanuts. Its also stronger. IIRC it IS a building reg for bathrooms
too. I may be wrong tho.


Oh, I was also wondering what the best way of finishing it is? I am
not too bad at skimming but have never tackled a ceiling which I
expect would be fairly tricky. How does taping and filling work when
it comes to covering the screws? I am aware that you simply tape and
fill the tapered edges at the joins, but am confused as to what
happens with the screw heads where the board is screwed to a joist
mid-board IYSWIM.

If you get the correct screws and screw below surface and fill, that
isn't bad..taper edges tape and a bit of filler will solve the joins.
I hate plastering too.

I don't *hate* plastering, I just don't think I'd do a very good job of
it on a ceiling - especially as there is a bathroom suite getting in the
way of me ladders

skimming is a lot nicer ultimately if you are up to it. I am crap at it.

In article ,
Richard Conway writes:
Hi all,

Our lath and plaster ceiling in the bathroom has decided to fall down,
so its time to replace. Dust and mess aside, once I've pulled down all
the plaster and laths what thickness of plasterboard should I replace it

9.5mm will be fine, unless the ceiling is required to provide
fire protection, in which case it must be at least 12.5mm

with? Also, should I use the foil backed stuff as it is a bathroom?

This is more a function of what's above the ceiling which you
haven't said. It never does any harm though.

Oh, I was also wondering what the best way of finishing it is? I am not
too bad at skimming but have never tackled a ceiling which I expect
would be fairly tricky.

If you can reach all the ceiling from one place, it's not any
harder than a wall. It gets harder the more you have to keep
moving ladders around to reach it all.

--
Andrew Gabriel

Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
Richard Conway writes:
Hi all,

Our lath and plaster ceiling in the bathroom has decided to fall down,
so its time to replace. Dust and mess aside, once I've pulled down all
the plaster and laths what thickness of plasterboard should I replace it

9.5mm will be fine, unless the ceiling is required to provide
fire protection, in which case it must be at least 12.5mm

That'll make things easier then, a bit less weight to support on my head!

with? Also, should I use the foil backed stuff as it is a bathroom?

This is more a function of what's above the ceiling which you
haven't said. It never does any harm though.

Unused loft space - the whole loft needs re-lagging really which I'll
probably try and get round to before the winter kicks in, but that's a
job for another thread

As you say, it won't do any harm so probably is worth doing for the
extra few quid.

Oh, I was also wondering what the best way of finishing it is? I am not
too bad at skimming but have never tackled a ceiling which I expect
would be fairly tricky.

If you can reach all the ceiling from one place, it's not any
harder than a wall. It gets harder the more you have to keep
moving ladders around to reach it all.

The problem is mainly the bathroom suite which gets in the way a bit.
We are planning on replacing this at some point but its the only
bathroom in the house so we would have to work around it. I suppose it
would be achievable though.

Out of interest, do you have any experience of the tape and fill method?
Is it possible to get results comparable with a skim coat?

Richard Conway wrote:
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
Richard Conway writes:
Hi all,

Our lath and plaster ceiling in the bathroom has decided to fall down,
so its time to replace. Dust and mess aside, once I've pulled down all
the plaster and laths what thickness of plasterboard should I replace it

9.5mm will be fine, unless the ceiling is required to provide
fire protection, in which case it must be at least 12.5mm

That'll make things easier then, a bit less weight to support on my head!

with? Also, should I use the foil backed stuff as it is a bathroom?

This is more a function of what's above the ceiling which you
haven't said. It never does any harm though.

Unused loft space - the whole loft needs re-lagging really which I'll
probably try and get round to before the winter kicks in, but that's a
job for another thread

As you say, it won't do any harm so probably is worth doing for the
extra few quid.

Oh, I was also wondering what the best way of finishing it is? I am not
too bad at skimming but have never tackled a ceiling which I expect
would be fairly tricky.

If you can reach all the ceiling from one place, it's not any
harder than a wall. It gets harder the more you have to keep
moving ladders around to reach it all.

The problem is mainly the bathroom suite which gets in the way a bit.
We are planning on replacing this at some point but its the only
bathroom in the house so we would have to work around it. I suppose it
would be achievable though.

Out of interest, do you have any experience of the tape and fill method?
Is it possible to get results comparable with a skim coat?

If you are careful you can get results just as good as a skim.
Wickes sells plasterboard sealer in 5L tubs (about £10) which is
painted on. Two coats is meant to give a vapour barrier.
Use 12.5mm p/b.
Tapered edge 12.5mm vapour check (foil backed is £9.60 incl vat) from
my local builder merchant. Not all BMs stock TE 12.5mm VC. B&Q sell TE
12.5mm (non VC) for £5.36. Some BMs may charge £10-20 for delivery if
the order is under £100 ish, but's saves struggling with boards in the
B&Q car park.
Drive the p/b screws (better than nails) so they dimple the board but
don't break te paper surface. That way the board is still intact and
the screw head is just below the board surface allowing it to be filled
and sanded.
Buy some large rolls of 40 and 100 (or 120) grit sandpaper from
Toolstation etc. and some sanding blocks.
A 3" and 6" spatual for filling is handy.
Most good diy books (Readers Digest, Collins etc.) hace details of the
process.

"nafuk" wrote in message
ps.com...


If you are careful you can get results just as good as a skim.
Wickes sells plasterboard sealer in 5L tubs (about £10) which is
painted on. Two coats is meant to give a vapour barrier.
Use 12.5mm p/b.
Tapered edge 12.5mm vapour check (foil backed is £9.60 incl vat) from
my local builder merchant. Not all BMs stock TE 12.5mm VC. B&Q sell TE
12.5mm (non VC) for £5.36. Some BMs may charge £10-20 for delivery if
the order is under £100 ish, but's saves struggling with boards in the
B&Q car park.


Re delivery and BM and B+Q..The latter will deliver ,also at a cost of £20
..That's who I used to get some 8' x 4' Gyproc delivered as I knew they would
bring it up two flights to my flat .. whereas BM's are ,in this area
anyway,pavement only .




Stuart