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bob bob is offline
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Default removing window?

Firstly thanks for your replies to my other recent posts; I now have1
SDS driil and frame fixings on order. Now on to the project itself -
replacing a side hung timber casement window. I have the process down
as:

1. Remove glass
2. Remove old frame*
3. Offer up new frame
4. Wedge frame in place ensuring it is square
5. Fix frame through sides with frame fixings
6. Glaze
7. Seal around frame
8. Make good inside

* My question is looking at the frame on the outside it is resting on
the layer of mortar above the soldier bricks - how do I remove the
frame without pulling soldier bricks away with it - how do the double
glazing guys do it?

As always any advice greatly appreciated.

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Default removing window?


bob wrote:
Firstly thanks for your replies to my other recent posts; I now have1
SDS driil and frame fixings on order. Now on to the project itself -
replacing a side hung timber casement window. I have the process down
as:

1. Remove glass
2. Remove old frame*
3. Offer up new frame
4. Wedge frame in place ensuring it is square
5. Fix frame through sides with frame fixings
6. Glaze
7. Seal around frame
8. Make good inside

* My question is looking at the frame on the outside it is resting on
the layer of mortar above the soldier bricks - how do I remove the
frame without pulling soldier bricks away with it - how do the double
glazing guys do it?

As always any advice greatly appreciated.


hate to say this Bob but you dont really need the drill.
a few steel nails would have done anyway because you will be sealing
the new frame on the inside and outside with cement. if you take the
old frame out and the new one is measured correctly it will fit in that
space and screws are unnecessary.
when you put in the new frame, use timber wedges to secure it and
plaster it up all round.

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Default removing window?


wrote:
bob wrote:
Firstly thanks for your replies to my other recent posts; I now have1
SDS driil and frame fixings on order. Now on to the project itself -
replacing a side hung timber casement window. I have the process down
as:

1. Remove glass
2. Remove old frame*
3. Offer up new frame
4. Wedge frame in place ensuring it is square
5. Fix frame through sides with frame fixings
6. Glaze
7. Seal around frame
8. Make good inside

* My question is looking at the frame on the outside it is resting on
the layer of mortar above the soldier bricks - how do I remove the
frame without pulling soldier bricks away with it - how do the double
glazing guys do it?

As always any advice greatly appreciated.


hate to say this Bob but you dont really need the drill.
a few steel nails would have done anyway because you will be sealing
the new frame on the inside and outside with cement. if you take the
old frame out and the new one is measured correctly it will fit in that
space and screws are unnecessary.
when you put in the new frame, use timber wedges to secure it and
plaster it up all round.


sorry Bob forgot to say cut the old frame in the middle and yank it out
in bits. Just be careful you dont disturb the bricks. The frill could
come in handy for making a line of holes in it until its cut in a few
places to get it out because its hard to saw it.

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Default removing window?

bob wrote:
Firstly thanks for your replies to my other recent posts; I now have1
SDS driil and frame fixings on order. Now on to the project itself -
replacing a side hung timber casement window. I have the process down
as:

1. Remove glass
2. Remove old frame*
3. Offer up new frame
4. Wedge frame in place ensuring it is square


4A) Spray foam round the frame. Leave for half an hour, then

5. Fix frame through sides with frame fixings


You can then drill away to your heart's content without fear of
disturbing the wedges

6. Glaze
7. Seal around frame
8. Make good inside

* My question is looking at the frame on the outside it is resting on
the layer of mortar above the soldier bricks - how do I remove the
frame without pulling soldier bricks away with it - how do the double
glazing guys do it?

As always any advice greatly appreciated.

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Default removing window?

wrote:
bob wrote:
Firstly thanks for your replies to my other recent posts; I now have1
SDS driil and frame fixings on order. Now on to the project itself -
replacing a side hung timber casement window. I have the process
down as:

1. Remove glass
2. Remove old frame*
3. Offer up new frame
4. Wedge frame in place ensuring it is square
5. Fix frame through sides with frame fixings
6. Glaze
7. Seal around frame
8. Make good inside

* My question is looking at the frame on the outside it is resting on
the layer of mortar above the soldier bricks - how do I remove the
frame without pulling soldier bricks away with it - how do the double
glazing guys do it?

As always any advice greatly appreciated.


hate to say this Bob but you dont really need the drill.
a few steel nails would have done anyway because you will be sealing
the new frame on the inside and outside with cement. if you take the


That's a strange thing to say.
How do you know it will be sealed outside with cement? - inside, yes there's
a possibility (it could be boxed in) but if it's sitting on the outside skin
(or the inside for that matter) and the house isn't externaly rendered then
there's no cement involved outside.


old frame out and the new one is measured correctly it will fit in
that space and screws are unnecessary.
when you put in the new frame, use timber wedges to secure it and
plaster it up all round.


And the wedges shrink or rot then the frame falls out, worse still if it's a
PVC frame (which is highly likely these days) once winter comes, the frame
itself will contract slightly and the wedges will be loose, this is why foam
is used, given that it's strong and flexible.

To the OP:
Throw the frame fixings away, they are not required unless they are quite
small (3 inch or less) - anything larger tends to pull PVC frames out of
square.
Wedge, then use foam (sparingly) and leave to set for a few hours, two small
fixings on each side is all that is required, although a lot of window
fitters don't use any.
Plaster inside and finish outside after glazing.




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bob bob is offline
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Default removing window?

Ok, bit of history, used to have an opening to a conservatory which
was removed, space bricked up and window installed. 2 problems builder
didn't have correct soldier bricks at time of job so a 2 course gap
was left between sill and new wall. Soldier bricks inserted at a later
date so I am guessing the mortar that I can see between top of soldier
bricks and window would have stuck to the sill. Second problem,
glazing of window was done incorrectly (not cross braced) causes the
sashes to become out-of-square (jeld-wen inspection pointed this out).
Hence,I am replacing window and doing the job myself :-).

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Default removing window?


bob wrote:
Ok, bit of history, used to have an opening to a conservatory which
was removed, space bricked up and window installed. 2 problems builder
didn't have correct soldier bricks at time of job so a 2 course gap
was left between sill and new wall. Soldier bricks inserted at a later
date so I am guessing the mortar that I can see between top of soldier
bricks and window would have stuck to the sill. Second problem,
glazing of window was done incorrectly (not cross braced) causes the
sashes to become out-of-square (jeld-wen inspection pointed this out).
Hence,I am replacing window and doing the job myself :-).


bob, the glass wouldnt move so my guess is that the frame twisted a bit
and that throws the sashes out a bit.
best thing is to take out the old window and put the new one up to it
and judge it from there.
there is no real problem. Just take your time and make sure you get it
fitting squarely and whatever way you seal it in wherher with silicone
(my favourite) or screws and then mortar on the inside that is easily
done.
If the brickwork is stepped out a little in front then a good seal of
silicone is best applied to the frame front edges If not you should
still seal it all round on the outside with clear or white silicone if
its a white window..
The most important thing you want to fix is getting it set in correctly
whether you wedge it or screw it is secondary. you have to be careful
you dont pull it out of line so be careful that the wedges are near the
corners rather than the centre.

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