Hi,
I am thinking of getting a wood burning stove with a back boiler, in particular, the Durnsley Heat
Yorkshire stove, http://www.dunsleyheat.co.uk/yorkshirestoveCH.htm

Now to connect it to the CH system they say that you need a Neutralizer
http://www.dunsleyheat.co.uk/linkupsys.htm

Does anybody have any experience of these? or know of an alternative?

Opinions?

P.S. as British Gas have just announced a 12.5% increase, a cheaper source of fuel seems more and
more attractive


Rick... (The other Rick)

"Rick" wrote in message
...
Hi,
I am thinking of getting a wood burning stove with a back boiler, in
particular, the Durnsley Heat
Yorkshire stove, http://www.dunsleyheat.co.uk/yorkshirestoveCH.htm

Now to connect it to the CH system they say that you need a Neutralizer
http://www.dunsleyheat.co.uk/linkupsys.htm

Does anybody have any experience of these? or know of an alternative?

Opinions?

P.S. as British Gas have just announced a 12.5% increase, a cheaper source
of fuel seems more and
more attractive


Rick... (The other Rick)

We fitted a woodburner with back boiler about ten years ago, to work in
conjunction with an oil boiler. I seem to remember the alternatives were a
Dunsley Neutraliser or motorised valves but the Neutraliser appealed as it
had no moving parts to wear out. We now have the same oil boiler but with a
wood stove with no back boiler as this suits our layout better now.

However, while we used the neutraliser it did seem to work effectively. If
the woodstove was on as well as the oil boiler, the oil boiler didn't cycle
nearly as often; it seemed to be a matter of balancing the various controls
(pipestat etc) to suit your own usage, then just letting the system get on
with it.


Pat Macguire

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
...
Now to connect it to the CH system they say that you need a Neutralizer
http://www.dunsleyheat.co.uk/linkupsys.htm

It is effectively a manifold providing a neutral point. It is the
equivalent
of a direct heat bank with no actual heat storage capacity. A heat bank is
preferable, but a neutraliser will work just fine, provided you understand
its limits.

Christian.

If he has decent mains water pressure and flow, the heat bank/thermal store
is the best way to go. The store of water provides a buffer for the
boiler-to-store to prevent boiler cycling and a buffer-to-CH circuit to even
out heat distribution. In Germany a heat buffer is becoming pretty standard
on many installations, just a small cylinder in the CH line, the thermal
store/heat bank does this for free, it also doe boiler buffering for free
too. Here is one German system. They use a pressurised cylinder with fresh
water in the boiler and through the heating circuit, which is not allowed in
the UK, but look at the system as primary water and add an external plate
heat exchanger for DHW take off and it is all there for the UK market.
http://www.solarserver.de/solarmagaz...uar2002-e.html

"Compact systems with just one tank [thermal store] that also acts as buffer
storage for the boiler dominate the German market. In conjunction with
wood-burning boilers there remain no alternatives since such a buffer volume
is urgently needed for their use. However, combination tanks with integrated
gas or oil burners use a large storage tank to replace the boiler and its
tank for heating domestic water [integrated thermal stores]."

The Germans are way ahead of us.

Taking the central heating off the store of water means TRVs can be fitted
on all rads except the rad used as a heat dump rad for the solid fuel, which
should be take directly off the thermal store/heat bank cylinder (can be the
bathroom towel rail). A Grundfoss Alpha auto variable speed pump on the CH
circuit is needed too - these are cheap enough.

Dunsleys are not cheap either. Just an empty short cylinder. Not worth it
when so much, much, more can be gained with a thermal store/heat bank.

On Thu, 27 Jul 2006 09:41:07 +0100, Rick wrote:

Many thanks for the reply's,
You have put my mind at rest that I wont be buying an expensive white elephant.

Rick... (The other Rick)

"Rick" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 27 Jul 2006 09:41:07 +0100, Rick wrote:

Many thanks for the reply's,
You have put my mind at rest that I wont be buying an expensive white
elephant.

Rick... (The other Rick)



Rick

I don't know what your time scale is, but when we changed our wood-stove a
couple of years ago, the Neutraliser was just blanked off. We're making
some
more plumbing changes soon in connection with a loft conversion and the
plumber is going to do his part in 2-3 weeks, at which time I intend to
retain the Neutraliser. You might be interested in it but possible
difficulty is that we live in Central Scotland and although it's basically a
steel box, it's still quite heavy.

Anyway, just a thought

Pat Macguire

On Sat, 29 Jul 2006 09:54:54 GMT, "Syke" wrote:


"Rick" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 27 Jul 2006 09:41:07 +0100, Rick wrote:

Many thanks for the reply's,
You have put my mind at rest that I wont be buying an expensive white
elephant.

Rick... (The other Rick)



Rick

I don't know what your time scale is, but when we changed our wood-stove a
couple of years ago, the Neutraliser was just blanked off. We're making
some
more plumbing changes soon in connection with a loft conversion and the
plumber is going to do his part in 2-3 weeks, at which time I intend to
retain the Neutraliser. You might be interested in it but possible
difficulty is that we live in Central Scotland and although it's basically a
steel box, it's still quite heavy.

Anyway, just a thought

Pat Macguire


Thanks for the offer, but as I live in Cardiff it probably wouldn't be cost effective for me to
collect it.

Rick... (The other Rick)