On Sun, 23 Jul 2006 18:53:18 UTC, "Bazzer Smith" wrote:

I don't need to know that all I need to know if the circuts I am using can
handle
the current I will be drawing, as that is neglible the answer is.

For safety's sake, there is rather more to it than that.

If you are concerned about the heat I think are missing the most
obvious danger which is the current being drawn.

The danger is that you will fail to provide suitable protective devices
for the cable rating, or for the size of CPC in the cable you use. If
the cable is too long, there are additional considerations.
--
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poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
Avenue Supplies, http://avenuesupplies.co.uk

"John White" wrote in message
...
"Bazzer Smith" wrote:

"Prometheus" wrote in message
...
In article , Bazzer Smith
writes

"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 23 Jul 2006 17:52:06 UTC, "Bazzer Smith" wrote:

Obviously to do his job yes, but once you know how there probably
erally isn't that much to it. Once you have done the job correctly
you
are pretty much an 'expert'.

This is very naive. The calculations involved, before you even start,
would not be beyond you. But you have to know what to calculate, and
be
aware (just as one example) of things such as thermal derating.

eh?

The current rating of a cable depends on how well it can dissipate heat,
now let's see if you can work out why...

I don't need to know that all I need to know if the circuts I am using can
handle
the current I will be drawing, as that is neglible the answer is.

If you are concerned about the heat I think are missing the most
obvious danger which is the current being drawn.

I assume this is a wind up but just in case...

You should listen to the good advice you have been given and get the
work done by somebody who knows what they are doing. You're obviously
not up to the job and could end up killing yourself, killing somebody
else or burning the house down.

Incidentally I'm a qualified electrician who also happens to have an
electronics degree as well as the usual C&G qualifications.

Please feel free to dismiss my views, if you wish to continue deluding
yourself.


The only people I am likly to kill are those who wind me up to much!!! :OP

Not much chance of killing myself, my father rewired houses without
any education or training, and he didn't kill anyone.



John
--
John White,
Electrical Contractor

"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 23 Jul 2006 18:21:27 UTC, "Bazzer Smith" wrote:

This is very naive. The calculations involved, before you even start,
would not be beyond you. But you have to know what to calculate, and be
aware (just as one example) of things such as thermal derating.

eh?

Q.E.D.

eh?


Sorry...but I think you really do need to find out how much you don't
know.

If I don't know it I will find it out or work it out.
If I can't work it out I doubt anyone else can.

THe problem is that you don't appear to know that you don't know it.

I will work that out when I go and have a look at the existing wiring.
I have an electrical multimeter you know, and I intend to use it :O)



--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
Avenue Supplies, http://avenuesupplies.co.uk

"Bazzer Smith" wrote in message
...

"Doctor D" wrote in message
...

Thanks. The problem with asking such questions is that the respondant
usually assumes you are familiar with the terms and jargon of the trade.
Indeed I have a DIY manual which falls into that trap!!
The tell you lots of things you don't what to know and omit the bits you
do!!
"feed from the lighting circuit, if you take it from the supply between
each light"

I assume a 'feed' is some sort of wire, rather than a ready made meal.

Anyway OK if I open up the ceiling flower I will see lots of wires
I did last time I tried it :O)
So how will that help? You see I am not familliar with household wiring,
If I was I propably wouldn't be asking would I!!

Anyway as far as I can see there only need to be two wires, a live one
(when switched on), and a return wire.
Anyway I will assume there will be a whole bumch of wires there as that
is what you imply.

"Sleeve your earth cables"???? Sleeve? I don't think I have an earth
cable
that I am aware of? What can all that mean?

"flying power lead"... hmmm....is that something to with aviation, will
I need
to take flying lessons?



Sorry, my mistake, I had assumed this was a tech newsgroup.
Call an electrician.

It's uk.d-i-y

It's uk.tech.digital-tv
or had you forgotten you'd cross-posted?







OK I will stop this nonsense, What I am perhaps thinking of doing is
taking
a cheapo short (four-way) extention cable (costs about £1-£2) and taking
off the plug to expose the live earth and neutral wires.
Then I will try to connect them to the existing wires somehow from the
ceiling rose.

Anyway acording to this diagram I wont find the 'always live' wire at
the ceils rose.
So how do I find it?
I guess I need to find the wire from the switch, fortunately I will be
using a bathroom light which has a switch in the ceiling so that should
give
me a good clue. There will be an alway live wire there.
So......... I will be able to get a live and neutral wire at least, not
sure if
there is any earth (only remember seing two wires when I loooked in the
loft.

So I can either forget the earth all togeather or run a wire to a bit
too exposed pipe work. I guess I can test if it is earthed
by touching it with the live wire :O)

That way I will have four power points in the loft and still have a
plug on my amp, which incidently is basically a 'plug' ie it
has no cable.




You won't usually find a neutral at a light switch.
If your lighting circuit is not earthed your wiring is old and probably
needs re-wiring. Do not use it to feed any sockets - it won't be safe
without an earth.

What you have suggested is dangerous and does not comply with current (or
past) Regs.

So what only I will know about it and I am willing to take the
risk:O)

I think you've summed yourself up nicely, and on that note - goodbye.

"Bazzer Smith" wrote:

"John White" wrote

You should listen to the good advice you have been given and get the
work done by somebody who knows what they are doing. You're obviously
not up to the job and could end up killing yourself, killing somebody
else or burning the house down.

Please feel free to dismiss my views, if you wish to continue deluding
yourself.

Which part of this didn't you understand?

The only people I am likly to kill are those who wind me up to much!!! :OP

The late Mickey Spillane did this sort of thing SO much better.

Not much chance of killing myself, my father rewired houses without
any education or training, and he didn't kill anyone.

It's not my fault you have poor genetic material.

John
--
John White,
Electrical Contractor

On Sun, 23 Jul 2006 21:10:07 UTC, "Bazzer Smith" wrote:

I will work that out when I go and have a look at the existing wiring.
I have an electrical multimeter you know, and I intend to use it :O)

Oh wow. Now all you need are the insulation tester and the earth loop
impedance tester. Multimeters definitely don't hack it.

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
Avenue Supplies, http://avenuesupplies.co.uk

"John White" wrote in message
...
"Bazzer Smith" wrote:

"John White" wrote

You should listen to the good advice you have been given and get the
work done by somebody who knows what they are doing. You're obviously
not up to the job and could end up killing yourself, killing somebody
else or burning the house down.

Please feel free to dismiss my views, if you wish to continue deluding
yourself.

Which part of this didn't you understand?


Your delusion.


The only people I am likly to kill are those who wind me up to much!!! :OP

The late Mickey Spillane did this sort of thing SO much better.

Not much chance of killing myself, my father rewired houses without
any education or training, and he didn't kill anyone.

It's not my fault you have poor genetic material.

I certaintly hope we are not related.




John
--
John White,
Electrical Contractor

"Doctor D" wrote in message
...

"Bazzer Smith" wrote in message
...

"Doctor D" wrote in message
...

Thanks. The problem with asking such questions is that the respondant
usually assumes you are familiar with the terms and jargon of the
trade.
Indeed I have a DIY manual which falls into that trap!!
The tell you lots of things you don't what to know and omit the bits
you
do!!
"feed from the lighting circuit, if you take it from the supply between
each light"

I assume a 'feed' is some sort of wire, rather than a ready made meal.

Anyway OK if I open up the ceiling flower I will see lots of wires
I did last time I tried it :O)
So how will that help? You see I am not familliar with household
wiring,
If I was I propably wouldn't be asking would I!!

Anyway as far as I can see there only need to be two wires, a live one
(when switched on), and a return wire.
Anyway I will assume there will be a whole bumch of wires there as that
is what you imply.

"Sleeve your earth cables"???? Sleeve? I don't think I have an earth
cable
that I am aware of? What can all that mean?

"flying power lead"... hmmm....is that something to with aviation, will
I need
to take flying lessons?



Sorry, my mistake, I had assumed this was a tech newsgroup.
Call an electrician.

It's uk.d-i-y

It's uk.tech.digital-tv
or had you forgotten you'd cross-posted?


It is posted to several groups obviously.







OK I will stop this nonsense, What I am perhaps thinking of doing is
taking
a cheapo short (four-way) extention cable (costs about £1-£2) and
taking
off the plug to expose the live earth and neutral wires.
Then I will try to connect them to the existing wires somehow from the
ceiling rose.

Anyway acording to this diagram I wont find the 'always live' wire at
the ceils rose.
So how do I find it?
I guess I need to find the wire from the switch, fortunately I will be
using a bathroom light which has a switch in the ceiling so that should
give
me a good clue. There will be an alway live wire there.
So......... I will be able to get a live and neutral wire at least, not
sure if
there is any earth (only remember seing two wires when I loooked in the
loft.

So I can either forget the earth all togeather or run a wire to a bit
too exposed pipe work. I guess I can test if it is earthed
by touching it with the live wire :O)

That way I will have four power points in the loft and still have a
plug on my amp, which incidently is basically a 'plug' ie it
has no cable.




You won't usually find a neutral at a light switch.
If your lighting circuit is not earthed your wiring is old and probably
needs re-wiring. Do not use it to feed any sockets - it won't be safe
without an earth.

What you have suggested is dangerous and does not comply with current
(or past) Regs.

So what only I will know about it and I am willing to take the
risk:O)

I think you've summed yourself up nicely, and on that note - goodbye.

Goodbye, and don't bother calling me when you need your electrical
system ugraded!! I won't even give you a quote.

"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 23 Jul 2006 18:53:18 UTC, "Bazzer Smith" wrote:

I don't need to know that all I need to know if the circuts I am using
can
handle
the current I will be drawing, as that is neglible the answer is.

For safety's sake, there is rather more to it than that.

If you are concerned about the heat I think are missing the most
obvious danger which is the current being drawn.

The danger is that you will fail to provide suitable protective devices
for the cable rating, or for the size of CPC in the cable you use. If
the cable is too long, there are additional considerations.

We're talking about an aerial amplifier with negligible consumption.

****.

--
Max Demian

"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 23 Jul 2006 21:10:07 UTC, "Bazzer Smith" wrote:

I will work that out when I go and have a look at the existing wiring.
I have an electrical multimeter you know, and I intend to use it :O)

Oh wow. Now all you need are the insulation tester and the earth loop
impedance tester. Multimeters definitely don't hack it.

No-one needs more than a neon screwdriver.

(Almost as good as a sonic screwdriver.)

--
Max Demian

"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 23 Jul 2006 21:10:07 UTC, "Bazzer Smith" wrote:

I will work that out when I go and have a look at the existing wiring.
I have an electrical multimeter you know, and I intend to use it :O)

Oh wow. Now all you need are the insulation tester and the earth loop
impedance tester. Multimeters definitely don't hack it.

Err... no it's a multimeter! Multi is French for 'many'.

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
Avenue Supplies, http://avenuesupplies.co.uk

"Bazzer Smith" wrote:

"Bob Eager" wrote
On Sun, 23 Jul 2006 21:10:07 UTC, "Bazzer Smith" wrote:

I will work that out when I go and have a look at the existing wiring.
I have an electrical multimeter you know, and I intend to use it :O)

Oh wow. Now all you need are the insulation tester and the earth loop
impedance tester. Multimeters definitely don't hack it.

Err... no it's a multimeter! Multi is French for 'many'.

Ye Gods! Is there really no start to your expertise?

I assume you're trolling, but it does make a refreshing change to find
someone who appears to be ignorant in such a wide range of subjects.

John
--
John White,
Electrical Contractor

On Sun, 23 Jul 2006 22:10:45 UTC, "Bazzer Smith" wrote:


"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 23 Jul 2006 21:10:07 UTC, "Bazzer Smith" wrote:

I will work that out when I go and have a look at the existing wiring.
I have an electrical multimeter you know, and I intend to use it :O)

Oh wow. Now all you need are the insulation tester and the earth loop
impedance tester. Multimeters definitely don't hack it.

Err... no it's a multimeter! Multi is French for 'many'.

And I bet it doesn't test insulation at 500 volts, or earth loop
impedance either. If you think it does, then you are as ignorant as
people thought you were.
--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
Avenue Supplies, http://avenuesupplies.co.uk

On Sun, 23 Jul 2006 22:08:01 UTC, "Max Demian"
wrote:

We're talking about an aerial amplifier with negligible consumption.

Irrelevant. The cable/circuit protection still has to be there. If you
understood the subject, you'd realise that.

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
Avenue Supplies, http://avenuesupplies.co.uk

"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 23 Jul 2006 22:10:45 UTC, "Bazzer Smith" wrote:


"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 23 Jul 2006 21:10:07 UTC, "Bazzer Smith"
wrote:

I will work that out when I go and have a look at the existing wiring.
I have an electrical multimeter you know, and I intend to use it :O)

Oh wow. Now all you need are the insulation tester and the earth loop
impedance tester. Multimeters definitely don't hack it.

Err... no it's a multimeter! Multi is French for 'many'.

And I bet it doesn't test insulation at 500 volts, or earth loop
impedance either. If you think it does, then you are as ignorant as
people thought you were.



As I understand what I am doing, and why, I don't need overpriced
'specialised' devices. Incidently you sell multimeters on the site you
are touting but neither "insulation testers or earth loop impedance tester"
:O)

I wonder why?

The voltage level in the UK is in the region of 240V by the way.
I can test earth look and insulation without specialised equipment.



--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
Avenue Supplies, http://avenuesupplies.co.uk

"John White" wrote in message
...
"Bazzer Smith" wrote:

"Bob Eager" wrote
On Sun, 23 Jul 2006 21:10:07 UTC, "Bazzer Smith" wrote:

I will work that out when I go and have a look at the existing wiring.
I have an electrical multimeter you know, and I intend to use it :O)

Oh wow. Now all you need are the insulation tester and the earth loop
impedance tester. Multimeters definitely don't hack it.

Err... no it's a multimeter! Multi is French for 'many'.

Ye Gods! Is there really no start to your expertise?

I assume you're trolling, but it does make a refreshing change to find
someone who appears to be ignorant in such a wide range of subjects.

Someone you have something in common with you mean?


John
--
John White,
Electrical Contractor

On Sun, 23 Jul 2006 23:03:19 UTC, "Bazzer Smith" wrote:

As I understand what I am doing, and why, I don't need overpriced
'specialised' devices. Incidently you sell multimeters on the site you
are touting but neither "insulation testers or earth loop impedance tester"
:O)

I wonder why?

I am touting no site. Where on earth do you get that idea from?

The voltage level in the UK is in the region of 240V by the way.
I can test earth look and insulation without specialised equipment.

No, you must be a troll. Or very, very ignorant.

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
Avenue Supplies, http://avenuesupplies.co.uk

In article , John White
wrote:
I assume you're trolling, but it does make a refreshing change to find
someone who appears to be ignorant in such a wide range of subjects.

We need a new word for the opposite of a polymath - a nullimath perhaps?

Rod.

In article ,
Bazzer Smith wrote:

"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 23 Jul 2006 21:10:07 UTC, "Bazzer Smith" wrote:

I will work that out when I go and have a look at the existing wiring.
I have an electrical multimeter you know, and I intend to use it :O)

Oh wow. Now all you need are the insulation tester and the earth loop
impedance tester. Multimeters definitely don't hack it.

Err... no it's a multimeter! Multi is French for 'many'.

actually it's Latin, but never mind. How many "multimeters" have you met
that give out 500v for insulation testing?

--
From KT24 - in drought-ridden Surrey

Using a RISC OS5 computer

In article , Bazzer Smith
writes

"Prometheus" wrote in message
...
In article , Bazzer Smith
writes

"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 23 Jul 2006 17:52:06 UTC, "Bazzer Smith" wrote:

Obviously to do his job yes, but once you know how there probably
erally isn't that much to it. Once you have done the job correctly you
are pretty much an 'expert'.

This is very naive. The calculations involved, before you even start,
would not be beyond you. But you have to know what to calculate, and be
aware (just as one example) of things such as thermal derating.

eh?

The current rating of a cable depends on how well it can dissipate heat,
now let's see if you can work out why...

I don't need to know that all I need to know if the circuts I am using can
handle
the current I will be drawing, as that is neglible the answer is.

If you are concerned about the heat I think are missing the most
obvious danger which is the current being drawn.

I^2 x R loss in the cable; that limits the current you may draw
according to the method of installation.
--
Ian G8ILZ

On Mon, 24 Jul 2006 04:50:39 UTC, charles
wrote:

Err... no it's a multimeter! Multi is French for 'many'.

actually it's Latin, but never mind.

Thanks...saves me the trouble of pointing that out.

How many "multimeters" have you met
that give out 500v for insulation testing?

Ah, but his 'extensive' qualifications in electronics tell him that 1.5
volts is all that is needed!

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
Avenue Supplies, http://avenuesupplies.co.uk

In article , Bazzer Smith
writes
The voltage level in the UK is in the region of 240V by the way.

It's 240V RMS, which is why you test that insulation is good above its
peak value.

I can test earth look and insulation without specialised equipment.

I would like to know how you are going to check the resistance between
earth and live (earth loop resistance) which has to be on a live circuit
because it is a measure of the resistance all the way back to the
sub-station, perhaps you will tell us?
--
Ian G8ILZ

On 2006-07-23 18:18:10 +0100, "Bazzer Smith" said:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message ...
On 2006-07-23 17:19:37 +0100, "Bazzer Smith" said:


"Roderick Stewart" wrote in message
news:VA.00000

I have a degree in elecronics, more than your average 'qualified electrician'.


Common sense would tell you that that would matter, wouldn't it?

However, you probably pay your taxes and do your bureaucratic dues.

The legislation in part P of the Building Regulations is intended for
those practitioners who can manage to achieve a basic ability with a
bit of day release or evening classes at the Tech, and who would find
their consciences sufficiently challenged that they will be willing to
fill in their tax returns and thus provide Gordon Brown with more money
to waste.

Remember that the purpose is not to address people with ability and
brains, only those willing to toe the line

Not sure what all that means.
Can anyone translate it in to laymans speak?

It means that the rules have nothing to do with ability and qualification.

Roderick Stewart wrote:

We need a new word for the opposite of a polymath - a nullimath perhaps?

In this case I think "troll" is the word you're looking for.

--
Andy

Bazzer Smith wrote:
"Frank Erskine" wrote in message
Digital Terrestrial TV
Can't get that in my area.

So why do you have a DTTV stick in your set up?

see post "Standard or widescreen monitor" dated/timed 21/07/06 00:54
--
This space intentionally left blank.

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2006-07-23 18:18:10 +0100, "Bazzer Smith" said:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2006-07-23 17:19:37 +0100, "Bazzer Smith" said:


"Roderick Stewart" wrote in message
news:VA.00000

I have a degree in elecronics, more than your average 'qualified
electrician'.


Common sense would tell you that that would matter, wouldn't it?

However, you probably pay your taxes and do your bureaucratic dues.

The legislation in part P of the Building Regulations is intended for
those practitioners who can manage to achieve a basic ability with a bit
of day release or evening classes at the Tech, and who would find their
consciences sufficiently challenged that they will be willing to fill in
their tax returns and thus provide Gordon Brown with more money to
waste.

Remember that the purpose is not to address people with ability and
brains, only those willing to toe the line

Not sure what all that means.
Can anyone translate it in to laymans speak?

It means that the rules have nothing to do with ability and qualification.


And what do you mean by that exactly?
(further translation required, that doesn't say anything meaningful to me)

"Prometheus" wrote in message
...
In article , Bazzer Smith
writes

"Prometheus" wrote in message
...
In article , Bazzer Smith
writes

"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 23 Jul 2006 17:52:06 UTC, "Bazzer Smith"
wrote:

Obviously to do his job yes, but once you know how there probably
erally isn't that much to it. Once you have done the job correctly
you
are pretty much an 'expert'.

This is very naive. The calculations involved, before you even start,
would not be beyond you. But you have to know what to calculate, and
be
aware (just as one example) of things such as thermal derating.

eh?

The current rating of a cable depends on how well it can dissipate heat,
now let's see if you can work out why...

I don't need to know that all I need to know if the circuts I am using can
handle
the current I will be drawing, as that is neglible the answer is.

If you are concerned about the heat I think are missing the most
obvious danger which is the current being drawn.

I^2 x R loss in the cable; that limits the current you may draw according
to the method of installation.


So what?
--
Ian G8ILZ

I can test earth look and insulation without specialised equipment.

You could earth loop with a multimeter. You'd need a high ampage load (an
electric heater would be ideal), the multimeter on voltage setting (should
probably be 4 sig figs) and a calculator. Unfortunately, you would also need
a clue, which might be more difficult to obtain. ;-)

As for insulation testing, I fail to see how this could be done without some
sort of high voltage generating set, although if you had access to such a
voltage source, the multimeter could be contrived to give you some
indicative result.

Christian.

"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 24 Jul 2006 04:50:39 UTC, charles
wrote:

Err... no it's a multimeter! Multi is French for 'many'.

actually it's Latin, but never mind.

Thanks...saves me the trouble of pointing that out.

How many "multimeters" have you met
that give out 500v for insulation testing?

Ah, but his 'extensive' qualifications in electronics tell him that 1.5
volts is all that is needed!


It has a 9 volt battery.


I don't need a meter to test insulation or earth.

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
Avenue Supplies, http://avenuesupplies.co.uk

"soup" wrote in message
.uk...
Bazzer Smith wrote:
"Frank Erskine" wrote in message
Digital Terrestrial TV
Can't get that in my area.

So why do you have a DTTV stick in your set up?

Its a DDTV.


see post "Standard or widescreen monitor" dated/timed 21/07/06 00:54
--
This space intentionally left blank.

On Mon, 24 Jul 2006 16:51:10 GMT, "Bazzer Smith"
wrote:


"soup" wrote in message
o.uk...
Bazzer Smith wrote:
"Frank Erskine" wrote in message
Digital Terrestrial TV
Can't get that in my area.

So why do you have a DTTV stick in your set up?

Its a DDTV.

Dumbed Down TV


--
Regards, Paul Herber, Sandrila Ltd. http://www.pherber.com/
Electronics for Visio http://www.electronics.sandrila.co.uk/

On Mon, 24 Jul 2006 16:47:37 UTC, "Bazzer Smith" wrote:

I don't need a meter to test insulation or earth.

OK, then, tell us how you would:

a) test insulation to regulations
b) test earth loop impedance to regulations

without one.

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
Avenue Supplies, http://avenuesupplies.co.uk

On Mon, 24 Jul 2006 17:07:14 UTC, Paul Herber
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Jul 2006 16:51:10 GMT, "Bazzer Smith"
wrote:


"soup" wrote in message
o.uk...
Bazzer Smith wrote:
"Frank Erskine" wrote in message
Digital Terrestrial TV
Can't get that in my area.

So why do you have a DTTV stick in your set up?

Its a DDTV.

Dumbed Down TV

How appropriate.

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
Avenue Supplies, http://avenuesupplies.co.uk

"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 24 Jul 2006 16:47:37 UTC, "Bazzer Smith" wrote:

I don't need a meter to test insulation or earth.

OK, then, tell us how you would:

a) test insulation to regulations
b) test earth loop impedance to regulations

without one.


I test them every day, all my electrics work find and my house
has not burnt down yet, what can be more reassuring than that?



--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
Avenue Supplies, http://avenuesupplies.co.uk

On Mon, 24 Jul 2006 17:48:00 UTC, "Bazzer Smith" wrote:

OK, then, tell us how you would:

a) test insulation to regulations
b) test earth loop impedance to regulations

without one.


I test them every day, all my electrics work find and my house
has not burnt down yet, what can be more reassuring than that?

You carefully avoid telling us how. Presumably you realise you are not
doing it correctly. Or would you like to tell us?

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In article , Christian
McArdle writes
I can test earth look and insulation without specialised equipment.

You could earth loop with a multimeter. You'd need a high ampage load (an
electric heater would be ideal), the multimeter on voltage setting (should
probably be 4 sig figs) and a calculator. Unfortunately, you would also need
a clue, which might be more difficult to obtain. ;-)

You would also need to know the hot resistance of the load.

As for insulation testing, I fail to see how this could be done without some
sort of high voltage generating set, although if you had access to such a
voltage source, the multimeter could be contrived to give you some
indicative result.

I think he is competing for the IgNoble prize.

--
Ian G8ILZ

In article , Bazzer Smith
writes

"Prometheus" wrote in message
...
In article , Bazzer Smith
writes

"Prometheus" wrote in message
...
In article , Bazzer Smith
writes

"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 23 Jul 2006 17:52:06 UTC, "Bazzer Smith"
wrote:

Obviously to do his job yes, but once you know how there probably
erally isn't that much to it. Once you have done the job correctly
you
are pretty much an 'expert'.

This is very naive. The calculations involved, before you even start,
would not be beyond you. But you have to know what to calculate, and
be
aware (just as one example) of things such as thermal derating.

eh?

The current rating of a cable depends on how well it can dissipate heat,
now let's see if you can work out why...

I don't need to know that all I need to know if the circuts I am using can
handle
the current I will be drawing, as that is neglible the answer is.

If you are concerned about the heat I think are missing the most
obvious danger which is the current being drawn.

I^2 x R loss in the cable; that limits the current you may draw according
to the method of installation.

So what?

I think we should look on the bright side, you will soon remove yourself
from the gene pool.
--
Ian G8ILZ

"Mike Henry" wrote in message
...
In , "Bazzer Smith"
wrote:


"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 24 Jul 2006 16:47:37 UTC, "Bazzer Smith" wrote:

I don't need a meter to test insulation or earth.

OK, then, tell us how you would:

a) test insulation to regulations
b) test earth loop impedance to regulations

without one.


I test them every day,

The question was "how", not "how often".


I look at my house carefully and verify that it has now burnt to the ground.
I know how to do this because I have a friend who works for an insurance
company who told me wht a gutted. burnt out house looks like.
I verify my household electrics are working by using the succesfully
every day or every so often. I have a friend who works in Currys
who told me how to tell if they were working properly or not.

"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 24 Jul 2006 17:48:00 UTC, "Bazzer Smith" wrote:

OK, then, tell us how you would:

a) test insulation to regulations
b) test earth loop impedance to regulations

without one.


I test them every day, all my electrics work find and my house
has not burnt down yet, what can be more reassuring than that?

You carefully avoid telling us how. Presumably you realise you are not
doing it correctly. Or would you like to tell us?

See my reply to Mike.


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On Mon, 24 Jul 2006 20:58:51 UTC, "Bazzer Smith" wrote:

I test them every day, all my electrics work find and my house
has not burnt down yet, what can be more reassuring than that?

You carefully avoid telling us how. Presumably you realise you are not
doing it correctly. Or would you like to tell us?

See my reply to Mike.

That is content free. You clearly are not doing any real testing at all.
As someone said, you will thankfully remove yourself from the gene pool
soon. That will reduce the number of people who don't understand what
earth wiring or insulation are for.

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The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
Avenue Supplies, http://avenuesupplies.co.uk