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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Monobloc tap fixing advice
A small disaster yesterday, one of the small copper pipes connecting
to the kitchen sink monobloc tap snapped off. It had to be the high pressure cold! .. the chipboard panels on the unit have been ruined. I have now replaced the copper pipes with small flexibles but I have found the reason for the original failure ... they were being used to help secure the tap. Now the monobloc is very floppy on the thin stainless steel sink.. Is there supposed to be a securing bracket for these taps to take the strain ? All that's on the base of the tap is the 2 pipe threads and a threaded bolt. tia Chris |
#2
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Monobloc tap fixing advice
"Kris" wrote in message
... Is there supposed to be a securing bracket for these taps to take the strain ? All that's on the base of the tap is the 2 pipe threads and a threaded bolt. tia Chris Reply I sent on a similar thread On the base (underside) of the tap there are usually three threaded holes, two are either 10mm or 12mm threaded these are for the feed pipes and one is a smaller (8mm??) threaded hole. Into this goes a short length of threaded bar, the tap then goes through the sink hole, and a 'half moon' shaped rubber washer and a 'half moon shaped steel washer go onto this threaded bar, rubber one against the underside of the sink. The whole thing is then tightened with a 11mm diameter (usually) elongated nut. All these bits are supplied with the tap. The awkward part is tightening this up while contorted into a kitchen cupboard. I usually, and you can too if confident enough, cut the threaded bar down and then you can use a socket set on the nut, but make sure you don't cut the bar too short or you'll not get the nut on! I hope this helps you, I have tried to find an online picture of the bits but haven't come up with anything, sorry. John |
#3
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Monobloc tap fixing advice
Reply I sent on a similar thread
On the base (underside) of the tap there are usually three threaded holes, two are either 10mm or 12mm threaded these are for the feed pipes and one is a smaller (8mm??) threaded hole. Into this goes a short length of threaded bar, the tap then goes through the sink hole, and a 'half moon' shaped rubber washer and a 'half moon shaped steel washer go onto this threaded bar, rubber one against the underside of the sink. The whole thing is then tightened with a 11mm diameter (usually) elongated nut. All these bits are supplied with the tap. The awkward part is tightening this up while contorted into a kitchen cupboard. I usually, and you can too if confident enough, cut the threaded bar down and then you can use a socket set on the nut, but make sure you don't cut the bar too short or you'll not get the nut on! I hope this helps you, I have tried to find an online picture of the bits but haven't come up with anything, sorry. John Thanks John , my tap is fitted correctly reading your info. The problem must be the stainless steel being too thin, not rigid enough to hold the monobloc steady. I think I will try to use the threaded bar to attach a tie rod and fix to back of unit or wall ... might help. If it wasn't for the expense of a new sink I would prefer to revert to normal taps, monoblocs are a flood waiting to happen. |
#4
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Monobloc tap fixing advice
"Kris" wrote in message ... Reply I sent on a similar thread On the base (underside) of the tap there are usually three threaded holes, two are either 10mm or 12mm threaded these are for the feed pipes and one is a smaller (8mm??) threaded hole. Into this goes a short length of threaded bar, the tap then goes through the sink hole, and a 'half moon' shaped rubber washer and a 'half moon shaped steel washer go onto this threaded bar, rubber one against the underside of the sink. The whole thing is then tightened with a 11mm diameter (usually) elongated nut. All these bits are supplied with the tap. The awkward part is tightening this up while contorted into a kitchen cupboard. I usually, and you can too if confident enough, cut the threaded bar down and then you can use a socket set on the nut, but make sure you don't cut the bar too short or you'll not get the nut on! I hope this helps you, I have tried to find an online picture of the bits but haven't come up with anything, sorry. John Thanks John , my tap is fitted correctly reading your info. The problem must be the stainless steel being too thin, not rigid enough to hold the monobloc steady. I think I will try to use the threaded bar to attach a tie rod and fix to back of unit or wall ... might help. If it wasn't for the expense of a new sink I would prefer to revert to normal taps, monoblocs are a flood waiting to happen. Try fitting a thin piece of plywood under the monobloc area of the sink. Drill a hole large enough to take the pipework and threaded bolt and make the wood long enough to make the whole area around the tap rigid when tightened. Keep the half moon shaped washer on the under side of the wood of course. :-)) I did the same thing here and works a treat on ours. |
#5
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Monobloc tap fixing advice
If you don't tighten the nut enough the tap moves about and if you
over tighten it the washer warps and won't provides a secure waterproof fit so be very careful. |
#6
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Monobloc tap fixing advice
"Kris" wrote:
Hello Kris K| Is there supposed to be a securing bracket for these taps to K| take the strain ? All that's on the base of the tap is the 2 K| pipe threads and a threaded bolt. Some sinks are made from absurdly thin stainless and this can flex an awful lot with the heavier taps. Sometimes it can be remedied by cutting a piece of metal to go underneath and drilling/cutting out holes for the pipes - acting like a giant washer. -- Simon Avery, Dartmoor, UK uk.d-i-y FAQ: http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/ |
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