Monobloc tap fixing advice
 

A small disaster yesterday, one of the small copper pipes connecting
to the kitchen sink monobloc tap snapped off. It had to be the high
pressure cold! .. the chipboard panels on the unit have been ruined.

I have now replaced the copper pipes with small flexibles but I have
found the reason for the original failure ... they were being used to
help secure the tap. Now the monobloc is very floppy on the thin
stainless steel sink..

Is there supposed to be a securing bracket for these taps to take
the strain ? All that's on the base of the tap is the 2 pipe threads
and a threaded bolt.

tia Chris

Monobloc tap fixing advice
 

"Kris" wrote in message
...
Is there supposed to be a securing bracket for these taps to take
the strain ? All that's on the base of the tap is the 2 pipe threads
and a threaded bolt.

tia Chris


Reply I sent on a similar thread

On the base (underside) of the tap there are usually three threaded holes,
two are either 10mm or 12mm threaded these are for the feed pipes and one is
a smaller (8mm??) threaded hole. Into this goes a short length of threaded
bar, the tap then goes through the sink hole, and a 'half moon' shaped
rubber washer and a 'half moon shaped steel washer go onto this threaded
bar, rubber one against the underside of the sink. The whole thing is then
tightened with a 11mm diameter (usually) elongated nut. All these bits are
supplied with the tap. The awkward part is tightening this up while
contorted into a kitchen cupboard. I usually, and you can too if confident
enough, cut the threaded bar down and then you can use a socket set on the
nut, but make sure you don't cut the bar too short or you'll not get the nut
on!

I hope this helps you, I have tried to find an online picture of the bits
but haven't come up with anything, sorry.

John

Monobloc tap fixing advice
 

Reply I sent on a similar thread

On the base (underside) of the tap there are usually three threaded
holes, two are either 10mm or 12mm threaded these are for the feed
pipes and one is a smaller (8mm??) threaded hole. Into this goes a
short length of threaded bar, the tap then goes through the sink
hole, and a 'half moon' shaped rubber washer and a 'half moon shaped
steel washer go onto this threaded bar, rubber one against the
underside of the sink. The whole thing is then tightened with a 11mm
diameter (usually) elongated nut. All these bits are supplied with
the tap. The awkward part is tightening this up while contorted into
a kitchen cupboard. I usually, and you can too if confident enough,
cut the threaded bar down and then you can use a socket set on the
nut, but make sure you don't cut the bar too short or you'll not get
the nut on!

I hope this helps you, I have tried to find an online picture of the
bits but haven't come up with anything, sorry.

John

Thanks John , my tap is fitted correctly reading your info.

The problem must be the stainless steel being too thin, not
rigid enough to hold the monobloc steady.
I think I will try to use the threaded bar to attach a tie rod
and fix to back of unit or wall ... might help.

If it wasn't for the expense of a new sink I would prefer to
revert to normal taps, monoblocs are a flood waiting to happen.

Monobloc tap fixing advice
 

If you don't tighten the nut enough the tap moves about and if you
over tighten it the washer warps and won't provides a secure
waterproof fit so be very careful.

Monobloc tap fixing advice
 

"Kris" wrote in message
...
Reply I sent on a similar thread

On the base (underside) of the tap there are usually three threaded
holes, two are either 10mm or 12mm threaded these are for the feed
pipes and one is a smaller (8mm??) threaded hole. Into this goes a
short length of threaded bar, the tap then goes through the sink
hole, and a 'half moon' shaped rubber washer and a 'half moon shaped
steel washer go onto this threaded bar, rubber one against the
underside of the sink. The whole thing is then tightened with a 11mm
diameter (usually) elongated nut. All these bits are supplied with
the tap. The awkward part is tightening this up while contorted into
a kitchen cupboard. I usually, and you can too if confident enough,
cut the threaded bar down and then you can use a socket set on the
nut, but make sure you don't cut the bar too short or you'll not get
the nut on!

I hope this helps you, I have tried to find an online picture of the
bits but haven't come up with anything, sorry.

John

Thanks John , my tap is fitted correctly reading your info.

The problem must be the stainless steel being too thin, not
rigid enough to hold the monobloc steady.
I think I will try to use the threaded bar to attach a tie rod
and fix to back of unit or wall ... might help.

If it wasn't for the expense of a new sink I would prefer to
revert to normal taps, monoblocs are a flood waiting to happen.


Try fitting a thin piece of plywood under the monobloc area of the sink.
Drill a hole large enough to take the pipework and threaded bolt and make
the wood long enough to make the whole area around the tap rigid when
tightened. Keep the half moon shaped washer on the under side of the wood
of course. :-)) I did the same thing here and works a treat on ours.

Monobloc tap fixing advice
 

"Kris" wrote:

Hello Kris

K| Is there supposed to be a securing bracket for these taps to
K| take the strain ? All that's on the base of the tap is the 2
K| pipe threads and a threaded bolt.

Some sinks are made from absurdly thin stainless and this can flex an
awful lot with the heavier taps. Sometimes it can be remedied by
cutting a piece of metal to go underneath and drilling/cutting out
holes for the pipes - acting like a giant washer.

--
Simon Avery, Dartmoor, UK
uk.d-i-y FAQ: http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/