Got 26 sq. m. of floor to lay on concrete. As well as tiles or stone,
I'm considering wood. It's a porch/hall area, so quite high traffic.
I'm quite interested in some of the engineered wood floors (e.g. Kahrs,
Natura) with the 3 to 5 mm of wood, so that they can be sanded. Does
anyone know how they stand up over time, especially since we have a
labrador?

The other option I've seen is solid wood floor designed to glue
straight down on to concrete, after testing the moisture content and
applying a latex screed of some type. I always thought you couldn't
lay solid wood right onto concrete, but I'm assured by the flooring
shop you can. Are they right?

I've seen you can also get some solid wood floor designed to float,
from Junckers, but that is pretty expensive.

Because of levels, there's no room to fit batons and nail.

Any comments or advice appreciated.

John Carlyle-Clarke wrote:

Got 26 sq. m. of floor to lay on concrete. As well as tiles or stone,
I'm considering wood. It's a porch/hall area, so quite high traffic.
I'm quite interested in some of the engineered wood floors (e.g. Kahrs,
Natura) with the 3 to 5 mm of wood, so that they can be sanded. Does
anyone know how they stand up over time, especially since we have a
labrador?

The other option I've seen is solid wood floor designed to glue
straight down on to concrete, after testing the moisture content and
applying a latex screed of some type. I always thought you couldn't
lay solid wood right onto concrete, but I'm assured by the flooring
shop you can. Are they right?

I've seen you can also get some solid wood floor designed to float,
from Junckers, but that is pretty expensive.

Because of levels, there's no room to fit batons and nail.

Any comments or advice appreciated.

why get crappy 'engineered' flooring when you can use real wood. Lay it
on a sheet of soft squishy stuff for best results. Wood is pretty
cheap, and makes a nice floor.


NT

John Carlyle-Clarke wrote:
Got 26 sq. m. of floor to lay on concrete. As well as tiles or stone,
I'm considering wood. It's a porch/hall area, so quite high traffic.
I'm quite interested in some of the engineered wood floors (e.g. Kahrs,
Natura) with the 3 to 5 mm of wood, so that they can be sanded. Does
anyone know how they stand up over time, especially since we have a
labrador?

The other option I've seen is solid wood floor designed to glue
straight down on to concrete, after testing the moisture content and
applying a latex screed of some type. I always thought you couldn't
lay solid wood right onto concrete, but I'm assured by the flooring
shop you can. Are they right?


I see no reason why you cant' lay T & G straight onto a dry and DPC'ed
concrete..

Expansion is the main problem, but with T & G, just use glue down the
middle and lay in midsummer, when humidity indoors is at its highest.

I've seen you can also get some solid wood floor designed to float,
from Junckers, but that is pretty expensive.

Because of levels, there's no room to fit batons and nail.

Any comments or advice appreciated.

wrote:
John Carlyle-Clarke wrote:

Got 26 sq. m. of floor to lay on concrete. As well as tiles or stone,
I'm considering wood. It's a porch/hall area, so quite high traffic.
I'm quite interested in some of the engineered wood floors (e.g. Kahrs,

why get crappy 'engineered' flooring when you can use real wood. Lay it
on a sheet of soft squishy stuff for best results. Wood is pretty
cheap, and makes a nice floor.

pse wood is all you need, plus wood glue. Because you're laying onto
level crete, the wood can be fairly thin, 10mm would be fine. Even oak
can be got for only £25 per cu ft.

NT

John Carlyle-Clarke wrote:
Got 26 sq. m. of floor to lay on concrete. As well as tiles or stone,
I'm considering wood. It's a porch/hall area, so quite high traffic.
I'm quite interested in some of the engineered wood floors (e.g. Kahrs,
Natura) with the 3 to 5 mm of wood, so that they can be sanded. Does
anyone know how they stand up over time, especially since we have a
labrador?



The worst problem is pointy high heels (so get your lab to wear flats)
but a lot also depends on the hardness of the wood.

wrote:
John Carlyle-Clarke wrote:
Got 26 sq. m. of floor to lay on concrete. As well as tiles or stone,
I'm considering wood. It's a porch/hall area, so quite high traffic.
I'm quite interested in some of the engineered wood floors (e.g. Kahrs,
Natura) with the 3 to 5 mm of wood, so that they can be sanded. Does
anyone know how they stand up over time, especially since we have a
labrador?

Friend laid some solid wood floor (Birch, 19mm thick from ebay) on a
new build concrete floor. Used the glue supplied with the planks and a
notched trowle, and white wood glue for the tongue and grooves. Went
down very quickly and looks very nice. Will be getting some myself. He
got it for £20/sq m.

John Carlyle-Clarke wrote:
Got 26 sq. m. of floor to lay on concrete. As well as tiles or stone,
I'm considering wood. It's a porch/hall area, so quite high traffic.
I'm quite interested in some of the engineered wood floors (e.g. Kahrs,
Natura) with the 3 to 5 mm of wood, so that they can be sanded. Does
anyone know how they stand up over time, especially since we have a
labrador?


You pay a premium for Kahrs. We just put down an 'Upofloor' engineered
floor. Looks great, and more reasonably priced than Kahrs.
Can't comment on the durability over time though, as we only just
installed it.

wrote:
John Carlyle-Clarke wrote:


why get crappy 'engineered' flooring when you can use real wood. Lay it
on a sheet of soft squishy stuff for best results. Wood is pretty
cheap, and makes a nice floor.


Ease of installation, less chance of movement. Also variance of floor
levels between rooms might be an issue with a solid wood floor.
BTW engineered floor does use real wood.

wrote:

You pay a premium for Kahrs. We just put down an 'Upofloor' engineered
floor. Looks great, and more reasonably priced than Kahrs.
Can't comment on the durability over time though, as we only just
installed it.

We did the whole of our "living" area inc. etc 46 Msq. with Khars "Oak
London" We have 2 dogs, one about the weight of a "big" labrador
(Greatdane/greyhound X)

Thought Oak would be resistant to dog claws..... it's not!

The trouble with wood floors is they look great when new, but show up
every dent. up to the point you say bugger it, it's wood, it's a floor,
it's _supposed_ to wear and be used. This point I acheived after about
7 days, I think my partner is _just_ getting to the point of not
worrying 6 months down the line.

When the dog lies down he slides down on his front feet, presumably
trying to gain traction with his claws. This leaves 4 fine lines
indented into the floor.

If he has a flea, he does that scrabling for grip while trying to get to
his back thing. again, more lines.

Now the whole visible surface is becoming distressed you don't notice it
any more. Still make sure shoes are left in the porch and stillettos
are completely forbidden.

Having UFH throughout means folks appreciate the warm floor with no
shoes on.

Personally I don't think We'll ever bother with the hassle of
re-sanding, well, not for a very long time.

HTH
Pete
--
http://gymratz.co.uk - Best Gym Equipment & Bodybuilding Supplements UK.
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""Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬)"" wrote in message
. uk...
wrote:


We did the whole of our "living" area inc. etc 46 Msq. with Khars "Oak
London" We have 2 dogs, one about the weight of a "big" labrador
(Greatdane/greyhound X)

Thought Oak would be resistant to dog claws..... it's not!

The trouble with wood floors is they look great when new, but show up
every dent. up to the point you say bugger it, it's wood, it's a floor,
it's _supposed_ to wear and be used. This point I acheived after about 7
days, I think my partner is _just_ getting to the point of not worrying 6
months down the line.

When the dog lies down he slides down on his front feet, presumably trying
to gain traction with his claws. This leaves 4 fine lines indented into
the floor.

If he has a flea, he does that scrabling for grip while trying to get to
his back thing. again, more lines.

Now the whole visible surface is becoming distressed you don't notice it
any more.

It's a random textured floor then? Like our sanded and sealed floorboards.

We like it, it gives some grip for the chickens, you should see them skating
on laminate :-)

Personally I don't think We'll ever bother with the hassle of re-sanding,
well, not for a very long time.

We certainly shan't. We're creating history :-)

Mary

wrote:
wrote:
John Carlyle-Clarke wrote:


why get crappy 'engineered' flooring when you can use real wood. Lay it
on a sheet of soft squishy stuff for best results. Wood is pretty
cheap, and makes a nice floor.


Ease of installation, less chance of movement. Also variance of floor
levels between rooms might be an issue with a solid wood floor.
BTW engineered floor does use real wood.

there's less chance of cupping and les expansion, but once water gets
into the joints, engineered flooring made from a base of chipboard with
veneer on top quicky becomes knackered. Solid woot otoh is normally ok
100 years later.

NT

wrote in message
oups.com...
wrote:
wrote:
John Carlyle-Clarke wrote:


why get crappy 'engineered' flooring when you can use real wood. Lay it
on a sheet of soft squishy stuff for best results. Wood is pretty
cheap, and makes a nice floor.


Ease of installation, less chance of movement. Also variance of floor
levels between rooms might be an issue with a solid wood floor.
BTW engineered floor does use real wood.

there's less chance of cupping and les expansion, but once water gets
into the joints, engineered flooring made from a base of chipboard with
veneer on top quicky becomes knackered. Solid woot otoh is normally ok
100 years later.

Kahrs (for example) engineered flooring uses a cross-bonded plywood base and
a 5/7mm surface layer of the wood that shows - hardly chipboard and veneer!


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)

"nafuk" wrote

Friend laid some solid wood floor (Birch, 19mm thick from ebay) on a
new build concrete floor. Used the glue supplied with the planks and a
notched trowle, and white wood glue for the tongue and grooves. Went
down very quickly and looks very nice. Will be getting some myself. He
got it for £20/sq m.

Don't suppose you know which seller it was do you?

Cheers

H

Bob Mannix wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...
wrote:
wrote:
John Carlyle-Clarke wrote:

why get crappy 'engineered' flooring when you can use real wood. Lay it
on a sheet of soft squishy stuff for best results. Wood is pretty
cheap, and makes a nice floor.


Ease of installation, less chance of movement. Also variance of floor
levels between rooms might be an issue with a solid wood floor.
BTW engineered floor does use real wood.

there's less chance of cupping and les expansion, but once water gets
into the joints, engineered flooring made from a base of chipboard with
veneer on top quicky becomes knackered. Solid woot otoh is normally ok
100 years later.

Kahrs (for example) engineered flooring uses a cross-bonded plywood base and
a 5/7mm surface layer of the wood that shows - hardly chipboard and veneer!

Ply and veneer is certainly much better. Chip and veneer is a much
poorer performer, and is 'in the wild'. Probably most people dont fit
Kahrs.


NT

Bob Mannix wrote:

Kahrs (for example) engineered flooring uses a cross-bonded plywood base and
a 5/7mm surface layer of the wood that shows

it crosses my small cell that if you want wood on ply, buying wood and
ply would be much cheaper.

NT