Hi All,

What's the std deal re fitting hinges in a traditional wooden door re
rebating the hinges into the door and frame please?

I saw a door being fitted by a carpenter (mate) and he was using some
fairly substantial chrome hinges that caused the door to be moved away
from the hinge side quite a bit. He had to 'relieve' the edge on the
opposite side to get the door to close properly, something it may have
done already had the hinges been recessed below the surface (but he
suggested that wasn't a done thing)?

So the result was quite a gap tween door and frame on the hinge side
and a smaller (all be it neat) gap on t'other?

Any thoughts please (outside of using thinner hinges that is) ;-)

All the best ..

T i m

T i m wrote:
Hi All,

What's the std deal re fitting hinges in a traditional wooden door re
rebating the hinges into the door and frame please?

You rebate the hinges into both the frame and the door. I've never
seen it done any other way!

I saw a door being fitted by a carpenter (mate) and he was using some
fairly substantial chrome hinges that caused the door to be moved away
from the hinge side quite a bit. He had to 'relieve' the edge on the
opposite side to get the door to close properly, something it may have
done already had the hinges been recessed below the surface (but he
suggested that wasn't a done thing)?

Not done if you're an idle beeeeep

So the result was quite a gap tween door and frame on the hinge side
and a smaller (all be it neat) gap on t'other?

Any thoughts please (outside of using thinner hinges that is) ;-)

Get a better carpenter?

On 2 May 2006 14:11:03 -0700, "Martin Bonner"
wrote:


T i m wrote:
Hi All,

What's the std deal re fitting hinges in a traditional wooden door re
rebating the hinges into the door and frame please?

You rebate the hinges into both the frame and the door. I've never
seen it done any other way!

Maybe I didn't explain myself properly Martin. He did indeed rebate
the hinges but only so they were flush with the surface of the door /
frame not *below* it, which would have made the effective thickness
of the hinge therefore gap less?

All the best ..

T i m

T i m wrote:
Hi All,

What's the std deal re fitting hinges in a traditional wooden door re
rebating the hinges into the door and frame please?

I saw a door being fitted by a carpenter (mate) and he was using some
fairly substantial chrome hinges that caused the door to be moved away
from the hinge side quite a bit. He had to 'relieve' the edge on the
opposite side to get the door to close properly, something it may have
done already had the hinges been recessed below the surface (but he
suggested that wasn't a done thing)?

So the result was quite a gap tween door and frame on the hinge side
and a smaller (all be it neat) gap on t'other?

He does not appear to be a "carpenter" at all. Are you saying he
merely screwed (or nailed) the hinges to the door/jamb edge, rather
than "rebating" them?


Any thoughts please (outside of using thinner hinges that is) ;-)


Sober up and speakee English, tomorrow is another day.

T i m wrote:
Hi All,

What's the std deal re fitting hinges in a traditional wooden door re
rebating the hinges into the door and frame please?

I saw a door being fitted by a carpenter (mate) and he was using some
fairly substantial chrome hinges that caused the door to be moved away
from the hinge side quite a bit. He had to 'relieve' the edge on the
opposite side to get the door to close properly, something it may have
done already had the hinges been recessed below the surface (but he
suggested that wasn't a done thing)?

So the result was quite a gap tween door and frame on the hinge side
and a smaller (all be it neat) gap on t'other?

The accepted wisdom is that the hinges should be recessed flush with the
surface of the frame and door. Recessing below the surface could cause a
problem with the door closing. The gap should be even on both sides of the
door, but that doesn't sound as though it was possible.

How 'substantial were these hinges?


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

Martin Bonner wrote:
snip////

What's the std deal re fitting hinges in a traditional wooden door re
rebating the hinges into the door and frame please?

You rebate the hinges into both the frame and the door. I've never
seen it done any other way!

agreed in principle, but.....

one idea behind rebating is to prevent the hinge sliding down the door
or frame.

OTOH at lot of (most?) general purpose hinges sold today appear to be
mostly presssed out of sheet steel and are not properly designed for
rebating. My guess is that lies at the root of your carpenter's
problems.

Traditional stout hinges for a door are very difficult to find in 2006.
Even the ones on sale now which look thick and strong are just a pale
imitation of what was available 40 years ago.

A properly designed traditional hinge has a gap between its leaves
which is there to provide a margin when the door is closed to stop
binding. The leaves will be 3 to 5 mm thick, and were not flat plates,
but had a wedge shaped profile - thickest nearest the hinge pin -
thinner on the outside. I treid to locate a seller (or maker) last
year without success: best I could find had flat leaves.

Pound stores and run of the mill hardware stores only have the flimsy
pressed steel versions. Look in more up market specialist ironmongery
and door firms. Magnet had quite stout hinges last time I wanted some.


HTH

T i m wrote:
"Martin Bonner" wrote:
T i m wrote:
What's the std deal re fitting hinges in a traditional wooden door re
rebating the hinges into the door and frame please?

You rebate the hinges into both the frame and the door. I've never
seen it done any other way!

Maybe I didn't explain myself properly Martin. He did indeed rebate
the hinges but only so they were flush with the surface of the door /
frame not *below* it, which would have made the effective thickness
of the hinge therefore gap less?

What "effective thickness"? Did he fit hinges intended for some
odd application? Somthing's not right here, in the fitting or
the explanation, or whatnot. Your punctuation does not help,
either - not that this is intended as an affront - just a request
for proper information.

It happens that The Medway Handyman formulated :
The accepted wisdom is that the hinges should be recessed flush with the
surface of the frame and door. Recessing below the surface could cause a
problem with the door closing. The gap should be even on both sides of the
door, but that doesn't sound as though it was possible.

How 'substantial were these hinges?

Most of the door hinges I have seen sit with the two sides flat or
almost flat to each other. Recessing them to be level with the side of
the door and frame should provide a correct gap - a small gap which
should be the same all the way around the door.

--

Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

jim_in_sussex wrote:
Pound stores and run of the mill hardware stores only have the flimsy
pressed steel versions. Look in more up market specialist ironmongery
and door firms. Magnet had quite stout hinges last time I wanted some.

If you know of anywhere that I can get 3" or 4" cast iron
hinges for doors as fitted during much of the last century,
then I shall be very grateful to hear from you.

The message
from T i m contains these words:

I saw a door being fitted by a carpenter (mate) and he was using some
fairly substantial chrome hinges that caused the door to be moved away
from the hinge side quite a bit. He had to 'relieve' the edge on the
opposite side to get the door to close properly, something it may have
done already had the hinges been recessed below the surface (but he
suggested that wasn't a done thing)?

That's what we call "A bodge". The door should fit nicely in the hole,
the hinges should be let into the door and the frame such that the pin
of the hinge is midline twixt both.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

On Tue, 02 May 2006 21:25:46 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
had this to say:

T i m wrote:
Hi All,

What's the std deal re fitting hinges in a traditional wooden door re
rebating the hinges into the door and frame please?

I saw a door being fitted by a carpenter (mate) and he was using some
fairly substantial chrome hinges that caused the door to be moved away
from the hinge side quite a bit. He had to 'relieve' the edge on the
opposite side to get the door to close properly, something it may have
done already had the hinges been recessed below the surface (but he
suggested that wasn't a done thing)?

So the result was quite a gap tween door and frame on the hinge side
and a smaller (all be it neat) gap on t'other?

The accepted wisdom is that the hinges should be recessed flush with the
surface of the frame and door. Recessing below the surface could cause a
problem with the door closing. The gap should be even on both sides of the
door, but that doesn't sound as though it was possible.

How 'substantial were these hinges?

ISTR that the hinges used on telephone kiosk doors in the 60s were
solid brass 5" and had about ¼" thick leaves. After all, they had to
support a glazed teak door and were subject to a lot of use and
misuse.

I should imagine that such a hinge purchased retail today would cost
at least 20 quid!

--
Frank Erskine

The message
from Chris Bacon contains these words:

If you know of anywhere that I can get 3" or 4" cast iron
hinges for doors as fitted during much of the last century,
then I shall be very grateful to hear from you.

Salvage firm?

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

Guy King wrote:
The message from Chris Bacon contains these words:
If you know of anywhere that I can get 3" or 4" cast iron
hinges for doors as fitted during much of the last century,
then I shall be very grateful to hear from you.

Salvage firm?

Not that I know - they weren't generally salvaged. A few turn
up in skips, but that seems to be about it. Maybe the Chinese
could help....

On Tue, 02 May 2006 21:25:46 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:

T i m wrote:
Hi All,

What's the std deal re fitting hinges in a traditional wooden door re
rebating the hinges into the door and frame please?

I saw a door being fitted by a carpenter (mate) and he was using some
fairly substantial chrome hinges that caused the door to be moved away
from the hinge side quite a bit. He had to 'relieve' the edge on the
opposite side to get the door to close properly, something it may have
done already had the hinges been recessed below the surface (but he
suggested that wasn't a done thing)?

So the result was quite a gap tween door and frame on the hinge side
and a smaller (all be it neat) gap on t'other?

The accepted wisdom is that the hinges should be recessed flush with the
surface of the frame and door. Recessing below the surface could cause a
problem with the door closing. The gap should be even on both sides of the
door, but that doesn't sound as though it was possible.

How 'substantial were these hinges?

So my explaination wasn't complete gibberish then Dave? ;-)

The hinges were very heavy chrome jobbies (as mentioned in my op), the
leaves probably being ~ 3mm thick (this was on a heavy laminated
chipboard door).

He used a router in a metal jig to make the rebate to the depth of the
hinge leaf then squared off with a chisel so I think the leaves were
of the same thickness all over (not tapered as per one thought) as
they looked flush with the surface over their entire surface on both
door and frame.

Just the gap left must have been ~4mm and looked a lot .. maybe only
so because I was looking for it so to speak? But the door had been
hand made to give a nice neat (close) fit and it seemed a shame to
have to plane stuff off one side to make it fit 'at all' when rebating
the hinges further may have allowed it to fit 'as was' shrug.

(The carpenter had constructed the sud wall, fitted the frame and
specked the door size himself but I didn't see if he had measured it
to see if it was on spec. I feel that he could have stood the door in
the frame and it would have fitted ok).

All the best ..

T i m

On Tue, 2 May 2006 22:46:35 +0100, Guy King
wrote:

The message
from T i m contains these words:

I saw a door being fitted by a carpenter (mate) and he was using some
fairly substantial chrome hinges that caused the door to be moved away
from the hinge side quite a bit. He had to 'relieve' the edge on the
opposite side to get the door to close properly, something it may have
done already had the hinges been recessed below the surface (but he
suggested that wasn't a done thing)?

That's what we call "A bodge". The door should fit nicely in the hole,
the hinges should be let into the door and the frame such that the pin
of the hinge is midline twixt both.

And that's exactly how they were fitted Guy, so the 'gap' was simply
that provided by the hinges and that was correct (just looked a bit
big to me hence the question re recessing further ..).

All the best ..

T i m

On Tue, 02 May 2006 22:09:18 GMT, T i m wrote:

On Tue, 2 May 2006 22:46:35 +0100, Guy King
wrote:

The message
from T i m contains these words:

I saw a door being fitted by a carpenter (mate) and he was using some
fairly substantial chrome hinges that caused the door to be moved away
from the hinge side quite a bit. He had to 'relieve' the edge on the
opposite side to get the door to close properly, something it may have
done already had the hinges been recessed below the surface (but he
suggested that wasn't a done thing)?

That's what we call "A bodge". The door should fit nicely in the hole,
the hinges should be let into the door and the frame such that the pin
of the hinge is midline twixt both.

And that's exactly how they were fitted Guy, so the 'gap' was simply
that provided by the hinges and that was correct (just looked a bit
big to me hence the question re recessing further ..).

All the best ..

T i m
If both leaves were recessed in to (a) the door and (b) the frame how come the
gap on the hinge side is too big .??

Stuart

The message
from T i m contains these words:

And that's exactly how they were fitted Guy, so the 'gap' was simply
that provided by the hinges and that was correct (just looked a bit
big to me hence the question re recessing further ..).

I reckon I'd have gone and got some more suitable hinges.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

T i m wrote:

So my explaination wasn't complete gibberish then Dave? ;-)

The hinges were very heavy chrome jobbies (as mentioned in my op), the
leaves probably being ~ 3mm thick (this was on a heavy laminated
chipboard door).

That doesn't seem over thick to me - not that I've ever measured the
thickness myself.

He used a router in a metal jig to make the rebate to the depth of the
hinge leaf then squared off with a chisel so I think the leaves were
of the same thickness all over (not tapered as per one thought) as
they looked flush with the surface over their entire surface on both
door and frame.

Router & jig sounds like he knew what he was doing. Jim mentioned a wedge
profile, but I've never come across that only flat plates.

Just the gap left must have been ~4mm and looked a lot .. maybe only
so because I was looking for it so to speak? But the door had been
hand made to give a nice neat (close) fit and it seemed a shame to
have to plane stuff off one side to make it fit 'at all' when rebating
the hinges further may have allowed it to fit 'as was' shrug.

Again accepted wisdom is a 2mm clearance each side. Hinges really have to
be recessed flush.

(The carpenter had constructed the stud wall, fitted the frame and
specked the door size himself but I didn't see if he had measured it
to see if it was on spec. I feel that he could have stood the door in
the frame and it would have fitted ok).

If we are now talking a new frame in a new stud wall and a new hand made
door, I'd say a 'maybe' 4mm gap one side and 2mm the other was a bloody good
job. The tolerances for building work & carpentry aren't that fine IMO.

If it looks neat & tidy I'd be happy with it myself. Maybe you have a
'picky' gene?

Dave

T i m wrote:

What's the std deal re fitting hinges in a traditional wooden door re
rebating the hinges into the door and frame please?

You would expect the surfaces of the hinge plates to be set so as to be
flush with the door and frame...

I saw a door being fitted by a carpenter (mate) and he was using some
fairly substantial chrome hinges that caused the door to be moved away
from the hinge side quite a bit. He had to 'relieve' the edge on the
opposite side to get the door to close properly, something it may have
done already had the hinges been recessed below the surface (but he
suggested that wasn't a done thing)?

with the hinge plates flush it ought to leave the traditional "penny
joint" on the hinge side. It is common practice to plane a bevel onto
the sides of the door however to ease closing, and to make sure the
screws in the hinges do not bind.

So the result was quite a gap tween door and frame on the hinge side
and a smaller (all be it neat) gap on t'other?

Taking off the architrave on the latch side and altering the wedges that
position the door lining would be a way to get a more even joint as
well. (although that does depend on the lining being traditionally
wedged to set the door to frame joint size).


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

T i m wrote:

The accepted / expected way is to rebate the hinges, but they dont
_need_ to be rebated in reality. Tis optional. I'm surprised budget new
builds arent all non-rebated as a matter of course now, its an obvious
way to save some time. I've seen plenty of door carpentry thats more
basic than is the norm nowadays, and really it all works fine.


(The carpenter had constructed the sud wall

must have been a weak wall


NT

"T i m" wrote in message
...
On 2 May 2006 14:11:03 -0700, "Martin Bonner"
wrote:


T i m wrote:
Hi All,

What's the std deal re fitting hinges in a traditional wooden door re
rebating the hinges into the door and frame please?

You rebate the hinges into both the frame and the door. I've never
seen it done any other way!

Maybe I didn't explain myself properly Martin. He did indeed rebate
the hinges but only so they were flush with the surface of the door /
frame not *below* it, which would have made the effective thickness
of the hinge therefore gap less?

If the hinges were rebated so that the flaps were flush with the edge of the
door and the frame, that is exactly how they should be fitted.

Colin Bignell

In article ,
Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Most of the door hinges I have seen sit with the two sides flat or
almost flat to each other. Recessing them to be level with the side of
the door and frame should provide a correct gap - a small gap which
should be the same all the way around the door.

All of the ones I've used 'close' beyond parallel. So with the faces
parallel there is a slight but significant gap between them - probably
about 2mm with a normal door hinge. The last thing you want is the faces
meeting when closed - it puts an enormous strain on just about everything.

--
*How do you tell when you run out of invisible ink? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Frank Erskine wrote:
ISTR that the hinges used on telephone kiosk doors in the 60s were
solid brass 5" and had about ¼" thick leaves. After all, they had to
support a glazed teak door and were subject to a lot of use and
misuse.

Are you saying the K6 door was wood? I've used hundreds being old and
thought it was cast iron as the rest of the box.

--
*Everyone has a photographic memory. Some don't have film *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article .com,
wrote:
The accepted / expected way is to rebate the hinges, but they dont
_need_ to be rebated in reality. Tis optional.

Only to a dedicated bodger. Surface mounted hinges will give a large gap
between door and frame and not have the same strength in locating the door.

--
*Income tax service - We‘ve got what it takes to take what you've got.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

T i m wrote:
On Tue, 2 May 2006 22:46:35 +0100, Guy King
wrote:

The message
from T i m contains these words:
I saw a door being fitted by a carpenter (mate) and he was using some
fairly substantial chrome hinges that caused the door to be moved away
from the hinge side quite a bit. He had to 'relieve' the edge on the
opposite side to get the door to close properly, something it may have
done already had the hinges been recessed below the surface (but he
suggested that wasn't a done thing)?
That's what we call "A bodge". The door should fit nicely in the hole,
the hinges should be let into the door and the frame such that the pin
of the hinge is midline twixt both.

And that's exactly how they were fitted Guy, so the 'gap' was simply
that provided by the hinges and that was correct (just looked a bit
big to me hence the question re recessing further ..).

All the best ..

T i m

In the end the chippie if he's any good will take the hinges, the frame,
and the door and bugger away till it all fits evenly, using various
depths of rebates, and relieving any over size woodwork.

If you end up with a totally wrong fit, fire the chippie.

Stuart wrote:
On Tue, 02 May 2006 22:09:18 GMT, T i m wrote:

On Tue, 2 May 2006 22:46:35 +0100, Guy King
wrote:

The message
from T i m contains these words:
I saw a door being fitted by a carpenter (mate) and he was using some
fairly substantial chrome hinges that caused the door to be moved away
from the hinge side quite a bit. He had to 'relieve' the edge on the
opposite side to get the door to close properly, something it may have
done already had the hinges been recessed below the surface (but he
suggested that wasn't a done thing)?
That's what we call "A bodge". The door should fit nicely in the hole,
the hinges should be let into the door and the frame such that the pin
of the hinge is midline twixt both.
And that's exactly how they were fitted Guy, so the 'gap' was simply
that provided by the hinges and that was correct (just looked a bit
big to me hence the question re recessing further ..).

All the best ..

T i m
If both leaves were recessed in to (a) the door and (b) the frame how come the
gap on the hinge side is too big .??

Stuart



Many hinges when fully closed have a gap between the hinge leaves...at
the pivot..

The trick with them is either a deeper rebate, or a tapered one, deeper
near the hinge pivot..

On Tue, 02 May 2006 23:59:10 +0100, Stuart
wrote:


If both leaves were recessed in to (a) the door and (b) the frame how come the
gap on the hinge side is too big .??

Well, that was my question?

Being that these were potentially good / expensive and substantial
hinges (x3 / door) and he had rebated them flush into both door and
frame I wan't sure what else could be done (or what was allowed /
excepted to be done like recessing the hinges deeper than 'flush'
etc).

I suppose by the gap being 'too big' I could have meant 'bigger than
was needed to allow the door to open / close easily' and potentially
spoiling to some degree (to my eyes at least) what was otherwise a
very neat well considered job ;-)

All the best ..

T i m

On Wed, 03 May 2006 09:23:32 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:


Many hinges when fully closed have a gap between the hinge leaves...at
the pivot..

Understood.

The trick with them is either a deeper rebate, or a tapered one, deeper
near the hinge pivot..

Ok, but is a deeper rebate than the thickness of the hinge leaf
considered a 'bodge' though (judging by the replies here the answer to
that is probably 'yes') ?

All the best ..

T i m

On Wed, 3 May 2006 00:06:05 +0100, Guy King
wrote:

The message
from T i m contains these words:

And that's exactly how they were fitted Guy, so the 'gap' was simply
that provided by the hinges and that was correct (just looked a bit
big to me hence the question re recessing further ..).

I reckon I'd have gone and got some more suitable hinges.

Well I did question that point with him but his reply was that was
what the 'customer' wanted so that was what he was fitting?

I don't think there was any doubt re their mechanical suitability
(strength etc) just their design may have produced a bigger gap than
most other (even heavy duty) hinges I have seen?

All the best ..

T i m

On Wed, 03 May 2006 09:20:56 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:


In the end the chippie if he's any good will take the hinges, the frame,
and the door and bugger away till it all fits evenly, using various
depths of rebates, and relieving any over size woodwork.

Ok, so he built the (substantial) studwork, fitted the liner (to
probably better accuracy than most 'chippies' I've ever seen before
(squareness, plumbness and straightness) and the doors were 'hand
made' (outside) to fit his efforts. When you stood the door as
supplied in the framework he created the door fitted neatly with
probably a 1.5~2 mm gap down both sides (it wasn't supposed to go to
the top of the frame and gave a good gap (20cm) at the bottom.

It was only after he had hung the door (and from what I have received
here so far) 'correctly' he then had to dress quite a bit of the
'slam' (is that what they call it?) side of the door to 1) get the
door to close at all and 2) to make a similar sized gap to the hinge
side?

If you end up with a totally wrong fit, fire the chippie.

He's one of the few 'chippies' *I* would actually employ. ;-)

All the best ..

T i m

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
The last thing you want is the faces
meeting when closed - it puts an enormous strain on just about everything.

"hinge bound". Often problems are caused by a build-up of paint.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
In the end the chippie if he's any good will take the hinges, the frame,
and the door and bugger away till it all fits evenly

You *must* be joking.

On Tue, 02 May 2006 23:10:34 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:

T i m wrote:

So my explaination wasn't complete gibberish then Dave? ;-)

The hinges were very heavy chrome jobbies (as mentioned in my op), the
leaves probably being ~ 3mm thick (this was on a heavy laminated
chipboard door).

That doesn't seem over thick to me - not that I've ever measured the
thickness myself.

It could have been more .. I think anyone seeing them who had seen
traditional press hinges would think they were 'chunky' ;-)

He used a router in a metal jig to make the rebate to the depth of the
hinge leaf then squared off with a chisel so I think the leaves were
of the same thickness all over (not tapered as per one thought) as
they looked flush with the surface over their entire surface on both
door and frame.

Router & jig sounds like he knew what he was doing. Jim mentioned a wedge
profile, but I've never come across that only flat plates.

It is his living and he's working weekends as well so as not to let
anyone down ...?

Just the gap left must have been ~4mm and looked a lot .. maybe only
so because I was looking for it so to speak? But the door had been
hand made to give a nice neat (close) fit and it seemed a shame to
have to plane stuff off one side to make it fit 'at all' when rebating
the hinges further may have allowed it to fit 'as was' shrug.

Again accepted wisdom is a 2mm clearance each side. Hinges really have to
be recessed flush.

They were and still reckon the gap was nearer 4mm .. ;-(

(The carpenter had constructed the stud wall, fitted the frame and
specked the door size himself but I didn't see if he had measured it
to see if it was on spec. I feel that he could have stood the door in
the frame and it would have fitted ok).

If we are now talking a new frame in a new stud wall and a new hand made
door, I'd say a 'maybe' 4mm gap one side and 2mm the other was a bloody good
job. The tolerances for building work & carpentry aren't that fine IMO.

This guy is pretty attentive to detail. Watching him packing the liner
every 18" or so to ensure it was dead straight (and re-packing once he
had finished to iron out even tiny imperfections) was quite reassuring
(that some folk can still aim to do a good job)?

If it looks neat & tidy I'd be happy with it myself.

Oh, to any casual user of the door I'm sure they wouldn't give it a
second glance but at £150 / door (just to have them made) and being
there when they were being hung made me ask the question.

I have no problem living with other folks decisions but when party to
them I'd like to think I'd taken the bet / most considered decision at
the time .. lest chance for any of those 'why did you do that then'
type comments shrug ?


Maybe you have a 'picky' gene?

I like to think so Dave. Much better in my eyes than a 'thattle do'
one (but then I don't have to earn a living from this stuff in todays
'thatlle do' climate ..) ;-)

All the best ..

T i m

On Wed, 03 May 2006 08:34:08 GMT, T i m wrote:

On Tue, 02 May 2006 23:59:10 +0100, Stuart
wrote:


If both leaves were recessed in to (a) the door and (b) the frame how come the
gap on the hinge side is too big .??

Well, that was my question?

Being that these were potentially good / expensive and substantial
hinges (x3 / door) and he had rebated them flush into both door and
frame I wan't sure what else could be done (or what was allowed /
excepted to be done like recessing the hinges deeper than 'flush'
etc).

I suppose by the gap being 'too big' I could have meant 'bigger than
was needed to allow the door to open / close easily' and potentially
spoiling to some degree (to my eyes at least) what was otherwise a
very neat well considered job ;-)

All the best ..

T i m

I've had a look at the hinges that I removed temporarily from a door in my flat
...Victorian doors..and the hinges when closed have a gap at the pivot end and
the hinges only meet at the outer end .The recesses in the door are tapered so
they are deeeper at the pivot end going to flush at the other end .All the doors
are done that way .

Stuart

In article ,
Stuart wrote:
I've had a look at the hinges that I removed temporarily from a door in
my flat ..Victorian doors..and the hinges when closed have a gap at the
pivot end and the hinges only meet at the outer end .The recesses in the
door are tapered so they are deeeper at the pivot end going to flush at
the other end .All the doors are done that way .

Sounds like poor workmanship through not understanding how a hinge is
meant to work...

--
*I want it all and I want it delivered

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Wed, 03 May 2006 09:13:06 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
had this to say:

In article ,
Frank Erskine wrote:
ISTR that the hinges used on telephone kiosk doors in the 60s were
solid brass 5" and had about ¼" thick leaves. After all, they had to
support a glazed teak door and were subject to a lot of use and
misuse.

Are you saying the K6 door was wood? I've used hundreds being old and
thought it was cast iron as the rest of the box.

The door was teak; the rest was cast iron.

--
Frank Erskine

In article ,
Frank Erskine wrote:
Are you saying the K6 door was wood? I've used hundreds being old and
thought it was cast iron as the rest of the box.

The door was teak; the rest was cast iron.

You live and learn. They must have been kept well painted in those days.

--
*Snowmen fall from Heaven unassembled*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Wed, 03 May 2006 13:08:17 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Stuart wrote:
I've had a look at the hinges that I removed temporarily from a door in
my flat ..Victorian doors..and the hinges when closed have a gap at the
pivot end and the hinges only meet at the outer end .The recesses in the
door are tapered so they are deeeper at the pivot end going to flush at
the other end .All the doors are done that way .

Sounds like poor workmanship through not understanding how a hinge is
meant to work...

Eh.??? The doors hang and close perfectly .What are you saying .

Here are the hinges if anyone is interested .





http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...y/Hinge001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...y/Hinge002.jpg


Stuart

On Wed, 03 May 2006 13:45:33 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
had this to say:

In article ,
Frank Erskine wrote:
Are you saying the K6 door was wood? I've used hundreds being old and
thought it was cast iron as the rest of the box.

The door was teak; the rest was cast iron.

You live and learn. They must have been kept well painted in those days.

http://web.ukonline.co.uk/freshwater/k6inst.htm

.... gives the erection instructions.

Rgds -
--
Frank Erskine

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Stuart wrote:
I've had a look at the hinges that I removed temporarily from a door in
my flat ..Victorian doors..and the hinges when closed have a gap at the
pivot end and the hinges only meet at the outer end .The recesses in the
door are tapered so they are deeeper at the pivot end going to flush at
the other end .All the doors are done that way .

Sounds like poor workmanship through not understanding how a hinge is
meant to work...

I'm not sure what Stuart means, but old cast iron hinges will
close like that (off the door!), and they are often slightly
thicker at the knuckle end.