Dale wrote:
Having moved into a new house I find that the internal doors seem
slightly low, about 6'4" from the ground to the lowest part of the
frame. I am 6'4 and 1/2" tall. So....

I think the problem would be solved if just the head-clipping part of
the door frame was removed. By this I mean part of the frame which the
door closes against (sorry don't know technical term), which is about
1" wide, should be removed along the top edge of the door. The same
part of the frame up either side of the door would be left there, so
the door would still be able to close against it. Some light & sound
might them come through at the top, but I don't mind this.

My question is how to go about this?

Looking at it, I think it's probably a separate length of wood glued
in place across the top of the door frame, and bevelled with the
similar lengths on either side of the door frame. Could be messy to
remove, as the glue will quite likely pull away some of the remaining
door frame. Need to finish up with a smooth surface to re-paint.

I am going to get a couple of carpenters in to quote but would be
grateful for any prior advice & ideas.


--
Dale

The reason why that 1" framing is there is because...its a fire barrier
reducer.

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

http://www.firesafe.org.uk/html/fsequip/firedoor.htm

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

You will find you get used to it after a few knocks and learn to duck -
depending on how thick your head is! I've lived in a house where nearly
all the doors were too low.

cheers

Jacob

Having moved into a new house I find that the internal doors seem slightly low, about 6'4" from the ground to the lowest part of the frame. I am 6'4 and 1/2" tall. So....

I think the problem would be solved if just the head-clipping part of the door frame was removed. By this I mean part of the frame which the door closes against (sorry don't know technical term), which is about 1" wide, should be removed along the top edge of the door. The same part of the frame up either side of the door would be left there, so the door would still be able to close against it. Some light & sound might them come through at the top, but I don't mind this.

My question is how to go about this?

Looking at it, I think it's probably a separate length of wood glued in place across the top of the door frame, and bevelled with the similar lengths on either side of the door frame. Could be messy to remove, as the glue will quite likely pull away some of the remaining door frame. Need to finish up with a smooth surface to re-paint.

I am going to get a couple of carpenters in to quote but would be grateful for any prior advice & ideas.

wrote:

You will find you get used to it after a few knocks and learn to duck -
depending on how thick your head is! I've lived in a house where nearly
all the doors were too low.

If I were that tall I'd certainly raise the door height. The main
problem would be if there is a lintel in the wall above the door
that is supporting anything. If it was a timber and plasterboard
wall like I have, the lintel could be raised.
It would be very easy to screw a piece of wood a couple of inches
high on top of the doors so there would be no gap, and that would
keep the fire resistance.

Dale wrote:
Having moved into a new house I find that the internal doors seem
slightly low, about 6'4" from the ground to the lowest part of the
frame. I am 6'4 and 1/2" tall. So....

Thud. Ow.


I think the problem would be solved if just the head-clipping part of
the door frame was removed. By this I mean part of the frame which the
door closes against (sorry don't know technical term),

"Door stop".


which is about
1" wide, should be removed along the top edge of the door. The same
part of the frame up either side of the door would be left there, so
the door would still be able to close against it. Some light & sound
might them come through at the top, but I don't mind this.

My question is how to go about this?

Looking at it, I think it's probably a separate length of wood glued in
place across the top of the door frame, and bevelled with the similar
lengths on either side of the door frame. Could be messy to remove, as
the glue will quite likely pull away some of the remaining door frame.
Need to finish up with a smooth surface to re-paint.

It's probably just nailed on. Look at the top section
# ____________
#|____________|
#| | | |---
#| | | |
#| | | |
#| | | |

to see if you can see a join as above. You'll probably have to
replace the timber all around. Lever it up with a stout knife,
kitchen cleaver, or what have you, trying not to dent the timber
around it. Buy new door stop and cut to length. Nail it on
using lost-head oval nails (perhaps you could straighten and
re-use the ones that come out). When you re-fit the door stop,
use some thin card or similar as packing to make sure there's a
small gap between the door stop and the door when it's closed.

I am going to get a couple of carpenters in to quote but would be
grateful for any prior advice & ideas.

The main time will be in filling and re-painting, which aren't
big jobs in themselves.

Dale wrote:


Looking at it, I think it's probably a separate length of wood glued in
place across the top of the door frame, and bevelled with the similar
lengths on either side of the door frame. Could be messy to remove, as
the glue will quite likely pull away some of the remaining door frame.
Need to finish up with a smooth surface to re-paint.

I am going to get a couple of carpenters in to quote but would be
grateful for any prior advice & ideas.


It's probably just nailed on so saw through each end and bash out. You
have to be satisfied that you're not contradicting any fire
requirements though.
What you might be able to do is remove all the door woodwork and
replace it an inch or so higher.
I'm 6'5 and imagine that in your house they installed the doors without
accounting for the flooring thickness or wooden floors were added
afterwards.