Has anyone used this backing board for tiling on to .
?
http://www.jameshardieeu.com/pages.p...ubpage=hbacker

Stuart

Stuart wrote:
Has anyone used this backing board for tiling on to .
?
http://www.jameshardieeu.com/pages.p...ubpage=hbacker

I noticed that PVA adheres common-or-garden aluminium foil to
plasterboard quite well, and tile adhesive sticks to the foil quite well
too.
YMMV.

On 10 Apr 2006 16:08:27 GMT, Ian Stirling wrote:

Stuart wrote:
Has anyone used this backing board for tiling on to .
?
http://www.jameshardieeu.com/pages.p...ubpage=hbacker

I noticed that PVA adheres common-or-garden aluminium foil to
plasterboard quite well, and tile adhesive sticks to the foil quite well
too.
YMMV.

So when are you going to notice your tiles falling off do you think .? :-)


Stuart

Has anyone used this backing board for tiling on to .
?
I don't understand these products!
The idea of tiling is to create a waterproof (and aesthetically pleasing)
surface.
So, as long as the tiles stick to it and the substrate doesn't flex, then
all should be well.
Plasterboard (with sufficient timber framing behind) fulfills the above
criteria IMHO.

If water gets behind the tiles then it will eventually appear somewhere.
If the backing materials are super-stable and impervious then the water will
find its way around this and damage something else!
So, unless you are creating a wall from scratch specifically for tiling onto
and even if you are, why use it?

Phil

Stuart wrote:
On 10 Apr 2006 16:08:27 GMT, Ian Stirling wrote:

Stuart wrote:
Has anyone used this backing board for tiling on to .
?
http://www.jameshardieeu.com/pages.p...ubpage=hbacker

I noticed that PVA adheres common-or-garden aluminium foil to
plasterboard quite well, and tile adhesive sticks to the foil quite well
too.
YMMV.

So when are you going to notice your tiles falling off do you think .? :-)

It was a limited test.
The actual idea is to instead of ripping up my walls entirely, and
insulating.
To cut many holes in the plasterboard, blow/pour foam beads in, paper the
walls/ceiling with foil, rip off the skirting board, seal to wall edge,
skim over the top, and then replace skirting board.
(It's a 2" ish variable gap in front of a 50cm stone wall)

This should significantly improve insulation, with arguably less
disruption, and certainly less outlay, than completely ripping
everything off.

On Mon, 10 Apr 2006 17:31:26 +0100, "TheScullster" wrote:

Has anyone used this backing board for tiling on to .
?
I don't understand these products!
The idea of tiling is to create a waterproof (and aesthetically pleasing)
surface.
So, as long as the tiles stick to it and the substrate doesn't flex, then
all should be well.
Plasterboard (with sufficient timber framing behind) fulfills the above
criteria IMHO.

If water gets behind the tiles then it will eventually appear somewhere.
If the backing materials are super-stable and impervious then the water will
find its way around this and damage something else!
So, unless you are creating a wall from scratch specifically for tiling onto
and even if you are, why use it?

Phil


Well I am doing a round a bath area for an over the bath shower so there is no
way you will get me using plasterboard for that .....I used ply on a timber
frame before but I didnt do it very well and then there has been another layer
of tiles on top so I'm ripping it all off and starting again and doing it right
this time ..On dry areas plasterboard might well be ok unless you need to
replace any damaged tiles when you'll be ripping the PB out as well .

Stuart

David Pearson wrote:
"Ian Stirling" wrote in message
news:443a906d$0$2574
[...]


(It's a 2" ish variable gap in front of a 50cm stone wall)


Oooh, you do the same as me... Which ever unit is most convenient on the
tape measure!

I have no idea how old you are, but (I'm guessing) this a common trait for
those of us educated in the 70's and 80's????

I was educated it the late 50's, early 60's. I was metricated in 1978
when I started work in the metric aerospace industry. Before that, I
worked in the sane industry, but used inches.

I can do inches or millimetres, but I am buggered when it comes to
centimetres. I have to do a mental exercise to convert to mm's.

Daft, init? :-)

Another Dave

Yes have used this board in a shower enclosure ,recommend it highly

both hardibacker and aquapanel are cement based and therefore stable
when damp. Unless you have completely waterproof grout e.g. epoxy, some
water penetration will occur. Having installed numerous showers and
tiled surfaces MHO is that these panels or solid walls are the only
ones that last for years in a very damp environment

nigmyk wrote:
both hardibacker and aquapanel are cement based and therefore stable
when damp.

I think it's more the resin bonding that's waterproof


Unless you have completely waterproof grout e.g. epoxy, some
water penetration will occur. Having installed numerous showers and
tiled surfaces MHO is that these panels or solid walls are the only
ones that last for years in a very damp environment

David Pearson wrote:

"Ian Stirling" wrote in message
news:443a906d$0$2574
[...]

(It's a 2" ish variable gap in front of a 50cm stone wall)

Oooh, you do the same as me... Which ever unit is most convenient on the
tape measure!

I have no idea how old you are, but (I'm guessing) this a common trait for
those of us educated in the 70's and 80's????

80s here mainly.
The reason I quoted the first one as 2" was that that was what it was
first told to me as.
I generally use cm, for most new stuff that I do, unless getting to
within a cm is important, when I go to mm.