I have to replace a monobloc tap in my kitchen. It seems to me that the
easiest way to get at the tap is to remove the sink from its hole in the
worktop by undoing the clamps (after disconnecting the sink tails, of
course); less lying around under the sink with pongy waste bin close to
head ;-). That means for sure that the squidgy (TM) sealing strip on
which the sink top is bedded will need to be replaced. (I did the
kitchen originally so I know where everything is).

I've Googled this group and gathered (a) that a new squidgy strip will
be hard, probably impossible, to obtain; and (b) that a good alternative
is to use silicon sealant.

I need to get all this done in one go so I'm trying to visualise in my
mind the sequence of things to do; I'm having trouble working out how
the sealant should be applied. So to the questions:

1. The existing squidgy rubbery strip is compressed by the sink top
but still has some thickness between the steel and the laminate; do I
apply a bead of silicon in place of the rubber and let it solidify
in order to get the same effect? Or do I just lay down a bead of
silicone and let the steel press right down through it, so there is
effectively nothing between the "joint face" of the steel and the
plastic laminate? I hope this is understandable.

2. Once the sink's down and the sealant has dried, do I trim it off
tight to the steel? In my mind's eye that would result in more or
less no thickness of silicone either under the steel or at the edge,
except where small imperfections in the laminate surface had been
filled up by equally small amounts of silicone. In other words
there's almost none left except _inside_ the sink Is that right?

3. Is the silicone just "kitchen and bathroom sealant" like the stuff
you apply with the sub-machine-gun round the edge of baths and
sinks and so on? Or is it some more capable stuff specially made for
bedding down sink tops?

All other comments on my proposed method also gratefully received.

--

Henry Law Manchester, England

You can buy replacement tape from Howdens ,or you can use silicone .if the
later let it set first saves a lot of mess,its the compression of the sink
fittings that should make a descent seal.

Henry Law wrote:
I've Googled this group and gathered (a) that a new squidgy strip will
be hard, probably impossible, to obtain; and (b) that a good alternative
is to use silicon sealant.

If you can find a new sealing strip, well and good, but I think silicone
will do the job fine. That's what I used myself when doing the same job
recently. By the way, the other bloke mentioned Howdens as a source:
however you need to have a trade account to buy from there. They are
the 'trade' arm of MFI, which suggests that MFI might be worth a try?

Anyway - first, once you've got the sink off, it and the worktop will
need a damn good clean up so silicone will seal properly - I finish with
meths to get rid of all grease etc. If the cut worktop edge under the
sink wasn't sealed originally, take the opportunity - belt and braces
approach, but avoids trashing a worktop by swelling if any water does
seep past the new seal. Just paint the sawn edge liberally with varnish
of some sort.

1. The existing squidgy rubbery strip is compressed by the sink top
but still has some thickness between the steel and the laminate; do I
apply a bead of silicon in place of the rubber and let it solidify
in order to get the same effect? Or do I just lay down a bead of
silicone and let the steel press right down through it, so there is
effectively nothing between the "joint face" of the steel and the
plastic laminate? I hope this is understandable.

I'd just squirt a decent bead right round the hole, at the position
where the flat face under the sink touches the worktop.

2. Once the sink's down and the sealant has dried, do I trim it off
tight to the steel? In my mind's eye that would result in more or
less no thickness of silicone either under the steel or at the edge,
except where small imperfections in the laminate surface had been
filled up by equally small amounts of silicone. In other words
there's almost none left except _inside_ the sink Is that right?

Place the sink down on the fresh bead in one movement, then tighten up
the clamps underneath - not too tight as you don't want to force out too
much silicone from between the faces. But TBH, even if you screwed
themn down as hard as you can you wouldn't squeeze it all out, as you
suggest. A lot of kitchen fitters don't actually bother with the clamps
or tape; they just rely on silicone to 'glue' the sink in place. Having
had to dismantle such installations in the past, they are probably right!

3. Is the silicone just "kitchen and bathroom sealant" like the stuff
you apply with the sub-machine-gun round the edge of baths and
sinks and so on? Or is it some more capable stuff specially made for
bedding down sink tops?

Yep, standard kitchen grade sealant.

David

Lobster wrote:
Henry Law wrote:

I've Googled this group and gathered (a)
snip

If you can find a new sealing strip, well and good, but I think silicone
will do the job fine.
etc

Lobster and Alex, thank you. I've got a much clearer idea what to do
now. So, off to buy a tap: turns out that my wife has never actually
liked the one we have so now is the chance to get a different one.

--

Henry Law Manchester, England

Lobster wrote:
Henry Law wrote:

Anyway - first, once you've got the sink off, it and the worktop will

OK, more questions. Having seen another post in this group I'm thinking
about flexible tails rather than the rigid copper ones that are there at
the moment; most of the taps we looked at today come with those too.
But I've also seen concerns expressed about the fact that the copper
tails give the tap some extra rigidity; if I put in flexible ones how
likely is it that the steel of the sink will flex?

It's a Franke sink, as I recall, and when I fitted it (way back when I
was young) I don't remember thinking it was particularly cheap and nasty.

--

Henry Law Manchester, England

On Sat, 01 Apr 2006 16:13:48 +0100, Henry Law
wrote:

Lobster wrote:
Henry Law wrote:

Anyway - first, once you've got the sink off, it and the worktop will

OK, more questions. Having seen another post in this group I'm thinking
about flexible tails rather than the rigid copper ones that are there at
the moment; most of the taps we looked at today come with those too.
But I've also seen concerns expressed about the fact that the copper
tails give the tap some extra rigidity; if I put in flexible ones how
likely is it that the steel of the sink will flex?

It's a Franke sink, as I recall, and when I fitted it (way back when I
was young) I don't remember thinking it was particularly cheap and nasty.


I think some people have found that the s/s sink flexes with flexible
tails .I know mine does .I seem to recall a "fix" for that being
suggested on here .....maybe somthing like fitting a pece of ply or
somesuch between the underside of the tap and the sink to stiffen it
up a bit .Dunno if that would help .

Stuart