like many on these discussion boards i have been battling away with my
baxi boiler for the last three or four years. I'm close to giving up
the ghost but it's intermittent working leads me on again with hopes of
a fault free future.

This time i have no flame whatsoever. The electrodes spark nicely but
there is no gas at the burner. Aha, so i think it's the valve. After
connecting the valve back to front i find that no gas is emmited when i
start the sequence (i use my nose) 5 seconds later the noflame light
kicks in.

So time to get a new valve? Or is it the CVI board controling the valve
that's at fault? Yesterday i completely took apart the gas valve and
found a little dust around the copper spring; cleaned, replaced and
****inghey! it works.
Oh yeah, today it's broken again.....

So where is the best place to start:
! does the main pcb control the valve or is it just the cvi box?
! should i try buying a cvi box first or is it more likely to be the
valve?
! does the fact that it worked beautifully yesterday suggest another
avenue?

spencer

On Fri, 03 Mar 2006 10:50:04 -0800, spencer wrote:

like many on these discussion boards i have been battling away with my
baxi boiler for the last three or four years. I'm close to giving up
the ghost but it's intermittent working leads me on again with hopes of
a fault free future.

This time i have no flame whatsoever. The electrodes spark nicely but
there is no gas at the burner. Aha, so i think it's the valve. After
connecting the valve back to front i find that no gas is emmited when i
start the sequence (i use my nose) 5 seconds later the noflame light
kicks in.

So time to get a new valve? Or is it the CVI board controling the valve
that's at fault? Yesterday i completely took apart the gas valve and
found a little dust around the copper spring; cleaned, replaced and
****inghey! it works.
Oh yeah, today it's broken again.....

So where is the best place to start:
! does the main pcb control the valve or is it just the cvi box?
! should i try buying a cvi box first or is it more likely to be the
valve?
! does the fact that it worked beautifully yesterday suggest another
avenue?

A rather more reliable and potentially less hazardous way of detecting the
gas is to use a manometer on the outlet of the gas valve. A multimeter on
the gas valve inputs would be the key test here.


--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html