Not strictly d-i-y since I intend to get someone else to do the job,
but think I may be about to be taken for a ride and would be grateful
for any advice group contributors can give.

Question is are there any circumstances in which it would be necessary
to drain the entire system in order to refit a temporarily removed
radiator? I have a combi-boiler; system is currently working properly
without the removed radiator in place. Its removal was accomplished
without any need to drain the system but I now have someone telling me
it may be neceesary to drain the system in order refit it.I'm
unconvinced.

On 14 Feb 2006 03:30:32 -0800, "Gerry" wrote:



Not strictly d-i-y since I intend to get someone else to do the job,
but think I may be about to be taken for a ride and would be grateful
for any advice group contributors can give.

Question is are there any circumstances in which it would be necessary
to drain the entire system in order to refit a temporarily removed
radiator? I have a combi-boiler; system is currently working properly
without the removed radiator in place. Its removal was accomplished
without any need to drain the system but I now have someone telling me
it may be neceesary to drain the system in order refit it.I'm
unconvinced.


Look for the spur marks on your backside as you are being taken for a
ride.

The choice now is between DIY and Vaseline.



--

..andy

Cheers Andy. Of the two options DIY seems the most palatable!

Gerry wrote:

Not strictly d-i-y since I intend to get someone else to do the job,
but think I may be about to be taken for a ride and would be grateful
for any advice group contributors can give.

Question is are there any circumstances in which it would be necessary
to drain the entire system in order to refit a temporarily removed
radiator? I have a combi-boiler; system is currently working properly
without the removed radiator in place. Its removal was accomplished
without any need to drain the system but I now have someone telling me
it may be neceesary to drain the system in order refit it.I'm
unconvinced.

Not necessary

You just have to be careful to open up the flow side isolation only, and
bleed the bugger before opening up the return, or you will have a
massive bleeding exercise..combi may need repressurising also. I am not
a combi expert...so maybe I am wrong there.

On 14 Feb 2006 03:59:28 -0800, "Gerry" wrote:

Cheers Andy. Of the two options DIY seems the most palatable!


You should be able to fit without problems. You will probably need
to re-pressurise the CH circuit, but that is also trivial. You
should have a filling loop and tap from the mains water, probably near
the boiler.

It is worth adding corrosion inhibitor if you are not sure that you
already have it. Conveniently it is available in gel form in
cartridges for a mastic gun. Refit the radiator, tightening the
unions. Squirt the contents of the inhibitor into the empty
radiator and close the vent. The instructions on the cartridge
usually talk about squirting it against the pressure of the system.
Messy and you don't need to do it.

With the vent on the radiator closed, open the valves to admit water.
Add more water through the filling loop until the pressure on the
gauge reaches 1.5bar or so. Vent the radiator and repeat.

Run the system and the pump and vent remaining air. Adjust pressure
so that it is around 1.5bar cold or 2bar hot.

That's it. The inhibitor will cost £20 or so and you will have a
better outcome than John Wayne could achieve.



--

..andy