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#1
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Well I've been here 19 years now and the old girl was here when I bought the
place so quite how old she is I don't know but I think she's gasping her last breaths. A tiny trickle of water on the bathroom floor a few days ago has gradually turned into a considerable puddle and much hissing and steaming whenever she's switched on as water leaks into the gas burner part and then out onto the floor. Can't see anything much externally with the covers removed and the pipework seems fine so I think the cast iron boiler has cracked or rusted through underneath. When she's switched off the leak stops too so it's probably a crack that opens up when it gets hot. She's had two thermocouples in 19 years, never been serviced and not another thing has ever gone wrong. Probably because there's bugger all inside her to go wrong. Oh, tell a lie. I had to fit a new rubber tap washer to the steam vent valve a couple of years ago. My friendly local Plumb Centre couldn't be bothered to write out an invoice for it so they gave me two in case I needed a spare and said hang on to your money. Looking at horror stories on here and in other places with modern boilers breaking down - printed circuit boards, fans etc I can't see there being a cat in hell's chance of getting that sort of reliability from anything modern. Not that I'm bothered about the long term because I'm selling the house as soon as humanly possible so the cheaper the fix the better. If I could find a replacement boiler section I bet she'd go another 20 plus years. I hate combi's because I like baths rather than showers and can't be doing with a bath taking ten minutes to run. The house is a small 3 bed semi and the rated output of the RS50 is between 9 and 13 kW depending on the gas pressure according to the sticker inside it but nothing to say what the actual gas pressure is. I suppose something wall mounted would take up less space though. If she'll last me through the cold weather I might even be so tight as to pull her apart and see if the crack can be welded but if not what's a good replacement boiler? What's all this Corgi nonsense these days? Can you install a new boiler yourself and get some eejit with a certificate to check it over or have you got to pay vast sums of money for someone else to do it all? If you do it yourself how would anyone know in future? -- Dave Baker |
#3
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![]() Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message ... In article , Dave Baker Dave wrote: Well I've been here 19 years now and the old girl was here when I bought the place so quite how old she is I don't know but I think she's gasping her last breaths. A tiny trickle of water on the bathroom floor a few days ago has gradually turned into a considerable puddle and much hissing and steaming whenever she's switched on as water leaks into the gas burner part and then out onto the floor. Can't see anything much externally with the covers removed and the pipework seems fine so I think the cast iron boiler has cracked or rusted through underneath. When she's switched off the leak stops too so it's probably a crack that opens up when it gets hot. Is the heat exchanger the type made up of sections held together with threaded rod? If so the 'O' rings between the sections have failed. Stripping, cleaning up the mating faces and new 'O' rings should do it - a simple matter to one of your skills. Hmmm. It's just a big cast iron box with a side cover at each side held on by 6 nuts. Could those nuts be on rods which go all the way from left to right perchance? I've never had cause to look inside the covers. They've got big rubber gaskets on them a bit like the ones on the cam follower side plates on MGB engines if that means anything to you. Methinks checking to see if those side plate nuts are tight might be a good idea before I do anything else. Did this on my RS80 some 10 years ago and it's still going strong. You might also have to replace some of the fire box linings due to water damage. And of course all the various rope seals. Are those things still easily available and if so who from? From Potterton or can you get pattern parts for boilers like you can for cars? The rope seal between the burner and the box has certainly gone on the left hand side. It's wet and bulging out from the join now so the leak must be on that side somewhere. -- Dave Baker |
#4
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On Wed, 8 Feb 2006 12:31:54 -0000, "Dave Baker" Dave
wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message ... In article , Dave Baker Dave wrote: Well I've been here 19 years now and the old girl was here when I bought the place so quite how old she is I don't know but I think she's gasping her last breaths. A tiny trickle of water on the bathroom floor a few days ago has gradually turned into a considerable puddle and much hissing and steaming whenever she's switched on as water leaks into the gas burner part and then out onto the floor. Can't see anything much externally with the covers removed and the pipework seems fine so I think the cast iron boiler has cracked or rusted through underneath. When she's switched off the leak stops too so it's probably a crack that opens up when it gets hot. Is the heat exchanger the type made up of sections held together with threaded rod? If so the 'O' rings between the sections have failed. Stripping, cleaning up the mating faces and new 'O' rings should do it - a simple matter to one of your skills. Hmmm. It's just a big cast iron box with a side cover at each side held on by 6 nuts. Could those nuts be on rods which go all the way from left to right perchance? I've never had cause to look inside the covers. They've got big rubber gaskets on them a bit like the ones on the cam follower side plates on MGB engines if that means anything to you. Methinks checking to see if those side plate nuts are tight might be a good idea before I do anything else. Did this on my RS80 some 10 years ago and it's still going strong. You might also have to replace some of the fire box linings due to water damage. And of course all the various rope seals. Are those things still easily available and if so who from? From Potterton or can you get pattern parts for boilers like you can for cars? The rope seal between the burner and the box has certainly gone on the left hand side. It's wet and bulging out from the join now so the leak must be on that side somewhere. If It's anything like my old CF60 Kingfisher parts are available from Interparts .The Heat Exchanger has two plates one per side held on by nuts threaded on to rods that fit in to the heat exchanger body and do not go right through to the other side and the seals are a pair of rubber like gaskets .I also used some heat resistant silcone I got from Screwfix to help the seal. On mine the gaskets had hardened over the years and just crumbled away so I scraped the residue away and rubbed down the mating faces . I also replaced the ceramic rope but iirc it is £17 a metre . Stuart |
#5
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![]() Stuart wrote in message ... On Wed, 8 Feb 2006 12:31:54 -0000, "Dave Baker" Dave wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message ... In article , Dave Baker Dave wrote: Well I've been here 19 years now and the old girl was here when I bought the place so quite how old she is I don't know but I think she's gasping her last breaths. A tiny trickle of water on the bathroom floor a few days ago has gradually turned into a considerable puddle and much hissing and steaming whenever she's switched on as water leaks into the gas burner part and then out onto the floor. Can't see anything much externally with the covers removed and the pipework seems fine so I think the cast iron boiler has cracked or rusted through underneath. When she's switched off the leak stops too so it's probably a crack that opens up when it gets hot. Is the heat exchanger the type made up of sections held together with threaded rod? If so the 'O' rings between the sections have failed. Stripping, cleaning up the mating faces and new 'O' rings should do it - a simple matter to one of your skills. Hmmm. It's just a big cast iron box with a side cover at each side held on by 6 nuts. Could those nuts be on rods which go all the way from left to right perchance? I've never had cause to look inside the covers. They've got big rubber gaskets on them a bit like the ones on the cam follower side plates on MGB engines if that means anything to you. Methinks checking to see if those side plate nuts are tight might be a good idea before I do anything else. Did this on my RS80 some 10 years ago and it's still going strong. You might also have to replace some of the fire box linings due to water damage. And of course all the various rope seals. Are those things still easily available and if so who from? From Potterton or can you get pattern parts for boilers like you can for cars? The rope seal between the burner and the box has certainly gone on the left hand side. It's wet and bulging out from the join now so the leak must be on that side somewhere. If It's anything like my old CF60 Kingfisher parts are available from Interparts .The Heat Exchanger has two plates one per side held on by nuts threaded on to rods that fit in to the heat exchanger body and do not go right through to the other side and the seals are a pair of rubber like gaskets .I also used some heat resistant silcone I got from Screwfix to help the seal. On mine the gaskets had hardened over the years and just crumbled away so I scraped the residue away and rubbed down the mating faces . I also replaced the ceramic rope but iirc it is £17 a metre . Quick look on Google and 12mm fire rope as per the Potterton parts listing - £2 per metre here http://www.fluesystems.com/sundries/info/fire_rope.htm Ain't the internet wunerful ![]() -- Dave Baker |
#6
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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In article ,
Dave Baker Dave wrote: Is the heat exchanger the type made up of sections held together with threaded rod? If so the 'O' rings between the sections have failed. Stripping, cleaning up the mating faces and new 'O' rings should do it - a simple matter to one of your skills. Hmmm. It's just a big cast iron box with a side cover at each side held on by 6 nuts. Could those nuts be on rods which go all the way from left to right perchance? I've never had cause to look inside the covers. They've got big rubber gaskets on them a bit like the ones on the cam follower side plates on MGB engines if that means anything to you. Methinks checking to see if those side plate nuts are tight might be a good idea before I do anything else. Ah - it's different from mine which is older. On mine the threaded rods run externally through eyes in the castings. The end sections are one type of casting, and the centre sections (two in my case) different from them but identical to one another. So a modular unit that can be sized for different applications. I assume. ;-) Did this on my RS80 some 10 years ago and it's still going strong. You might also have to replace some of the fire box linings due to water damage. And of course all the various rope seals. Are those things still easily available and if so who from? From Potterton or can you get pattern parts for boilers like you can for cars? The rope seal between the burner and the box has certainly gone on the left hand side. It's wet and bulging out from the join now so the leak must be on that side somewhere. I had no problem then getting the fire box liners and O rings from my local Potterton agent. The rope seals are 'generic' and any PM should have them - you just cut to length. There's a boiler 'breakers' near me. Perhaps you have a local one too? They might be able to sell you a secondhand heat exchanger for pennies if indeed yours has rotted through - although I'd say this is unlikely. But I've never use them - the only other thing mine has had is a couple of thermocouples. But with rising gas prices it will probably be worth changing it for a more efficient model. My gas bill is now about 1000 quid a year - although it is a large Victorian house with solid walls and we like it comfortable. ;-) -- *The more people I meet, the more I like my dog. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#7
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![]() Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message ... Is the heat exchanger the type made up of sections held together with threaded rod? Nope. Looking at the parts diagram on that link Stuart gave it's just a big open box with side plates. I see what you mean though on the RS80 diagram. On mine either it's a side plate leaking or the box itself is holed. Can't see any other possibilities unless there's things inside the box that the diagram doesn't go into but I'll certainly look at those side plates when I've got time to drain her down. If it's just the left hand one of those leaking I'll be well chuffed. There's certainly a bit of water around that area. Even if the box is holed it may well be fixable. Mill the bottom off the bugger, cut a slab off an old Ford Pinto engine block, bolt the two back together with lots of countersunk capheads and high temp sealant or get them red hot and nickel fill them. Bob's your aunty ![]() bore out the gas burner jets while I'm at it, do a bit of porting and polishing inside and wind the gas pressure up to full. Or there's that old DCOE that I've been trying to find a use for, hmmmmm. More power, ugh ugh ugh. (Not quite sure how you spell that thing Tim Taylor does on tooltime - lol) Thank god it didn't go in the middle of the really cold weather though. I reckon now I can struggle on with the gas fire in the lounge and maybe just run the boiler for hot water once a day until I've got time to look into it more. -- Dave Baker |
#8
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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In article ,
Dave Baker Dave wrote: Nope. Looking at the parts diagram on that link Stuart gave it's just a big open box with side plates. I see what you mean though on the RS80 diagram. On mine either it's a side plate leaking or the box itself is holed. Can't see any other possibilities unless there's things inside the box that the diagram doesn't go into but I'll certainly look at those side plates when I've got time to drain her down. If it's just the left hand one of those leaking I'll be well chuffed. There's certainly a bit of water around that area. I'd definitely guess at leaking seals before cracks or corrosion. Even if the box is holed it may well be fixable. Mill the bottom off the bugger, cut a slab off an old Ford Pinto engine block, bolt the two back together with lots of countersunk capheads and high temp sealant or get them red hot and nickel fill them. Bob's your aunty ![]() good idea to bore out the gas burner jets while I'm at it, do a bit of porting and polishing inside and wind the gas pressure up to full. Or there's that old DCOE that I've been trying to find a use for, hmmmmm. More power, ugh ugh ugh. (Not quite sure how you spell that thing Tim Taylor does on tooltime - lol) ;-) And a GT badge and stripes for the casing? Thank god it didn't go in the middle of the really cold weather though. I reckon now I can struggle on with the gas fire in the lounge and maybe just run the boiler for hot water once a day until I've got time to look into it more. Is it on a solid floor? Otherwise I'd be concerned about where the leaking water could be going to. It's how the mighty have fallen, isn't it? A company who once made boilers which can run for 20 years (mine nearer 30) with little attention now make ones which can barely do a year without expensive repairs. That's progress - in this throwaway world. Of course fools like dribble will start bleating on about the higher efficiency brought about through the use of electronics etc. But then the same applies to car engines - and they're more efficient *and* more reliable than 20 years ago - in general. -- *I never drink anything stronger than gin before breakfast * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#9
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![]() Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message ... Is it on a solid floor? Otherwise I'd be concerned about where the leaking water could be going to. Aye. Bathroom's downstairs and a concrete floor so nowt to get damaged. Saves having to put a water bowl down too cos the cat and ferret can drink from the pool round the boiler. There's always a silver lining if you look hard enough ![]() -- Dave Baker |
#10
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In article ,
Dave Baker Dave wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message ... Is it on a solid floor? Otherwise I'd be concerned about where the leaking water could be going to. Aye. Bathroom's downstairs and a concrete floor so nowt to get damaged. Saves having to put a water bowl down too cos the cat and ferret can drink from the pool round the boiler. There's always a silver lining if you look hard enough ![]() You must have harder cats in your part of the world. Mine demands nothing short of Perrier. The ferret just drinks out of the bog. Knows its place. But if you've got plenty of inhibitor in the water at least they won't rust. -- *Why is the third hand on the watch called a second hand? Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#11
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On Wed, 8 Feb 2006 05:41:15 -0000, "Dave Baker" Dave
wrote: Well I've been here 19 years now and the old girl was here when I bought the place so quite how old she is I don't know but I think she's gasping her last breaths. A tiny trickle of water on the bathroom floor a few days ago has gradually turned into a considerable puddle and much hissing and steaming whenever she's switched on as water leaks into the gas burner part and then out onto the floor. Can't see anything much externally with the covers removed and the pipework seems fine so I think the cast iron boiler has cracked or rusted through underneath. When she's switched off the leak stops too so it's probably a crack that opens up when it gets hot. She's had two thermocouples in 19 years, never been serviced and not another thing has ever gone wrong. Probably because there's bugger all inside her to go wrong. Oh, tell a lie. I had to fit a new rubber tap washer to the steam vent valve a couple of years ago. My friendly local Plumb Centre couldn't be bothered to write out an invoice for it so they gave me two in case I needed a spare and said hang on to your money. Looking at horror stories on here and in other places with modern boilers breaking down - printed circuit boards, fans etc I can't see there being a cat in hell's chance of getting that sort of reliability from anything modern. Not that I'm bothered about the long term because I'm selling the house as soon as humanly possible so the cheaper the fix the better. If I could find a replacement boiler section I bet she'd go another 20 plus years. I hate combi's because I like baths rather than showers and can't be doing with a bath taking ten minutes to run. The house is a small 3 bed semi and the rated output of the RS50 is between 9 and 13 kW depending on the gas pressure according to the sticker inside it but nothing to say what the actual gas pressure is. I suppose something wall mounted would take up less space though. If she'll last me through the cold weather I might even be so tight as to pull her apart and see if the crack can be welded but if not what's a good replacement boiler? What's all this Corgi nonsense these days? Can you install a new boiler yourself and get some eejit with a certificate to check it over or have you got to pay vast sums of money for someone else to do it all? If you do it yourself how would anyone know in future? Have you tried here . http://www.interpartspares.co.uk/stockists/index.php If it's the heat exchanger they can cost about £300 tho' Stuart |
#12
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![]() Stuart wrote in message ... Have you tried here . http://www.interpartspares.co.uk/stockists/index.php If it's the heat exchanger they can cost about £300 tho' Thanks Stuart. That's a handy link. -- Dave Baker |
#13
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On Wed, 08 Feb 2006 05:41:15 +0000, Dave Baker wrote:
Well I've been here 19 years now and the old girl was here when I bought the place so quite how old she is I don't know but I think she's gasping her last breaths. A tiny trickle of water on the bathroom floor a few days ago has gradually turned into a considerable puddle and much hissing and steaming whenever she's switched on as water leaks into the gas burner part and then out onto the floor. Can't see anything much externally with the covers removed and the pipework seems fine so I think the cast iron boiler has cracked or rusted through underneath. When she's switched off the leak stops too so it's probably a crack that opens up when it gets hot. She's had two thermocouples in 19 years, never been serviced and not another thing has ever gone wrong. Probably because there's bugger all inside her to go wrong. Oh, tell a lie. I had to fit a new rubber tap washer to the steam vent valve a couple of years ago. My friendly local Plumb Centre couldn't be bothered to write out an invoice for it so they gave me two in case I needed a spare and said hang on to your money. Looking at horror stories on here and in other places with modern boilers breaking down - printed circuit boards, fans etc I can't see there being a cat in hell's chance of getting that sort of reliability from anything modern. Not that I'm bothered about the long term because I'm selling the house as soon as humanly possible so the cheaper the fix the better. If I could find a replacement boiler section I bet she'd go another 20 plus years. I hate combi's because I like baths rather than showers and can't be doing with a bath taking ten minutes to run. The house is a small 3 bed semi and the rated output of the RS50 is between 9 and 13 kW depending on the gas pressure according to the sticker inside it but nothing to say what the actual gas pressure is. I suppose something wall mounted would take up less space though. If she'll last me through the cold weather I might even be so tight as to pull her apart and see if the crack can be welded but if not what's a good replacement boiler? What's all this Corgi nonsense these days? Can you install a new boiler yourself and get some eejit with a certificate to check it over or have you got to pay vast sums of money for someone else to do it all? If you do it yourself how would anyone know in future? The Boiler Choice FAQ was written for more or less your situation. Please Read. -- Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter. The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html |
#14
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![]() Ed Sirett wrote in message news ![]() The Boiler Choice FAQ was written for more or less your situation. Please Read. -- Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter. The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html Excellent document. Thanks. I'll go through it in detail in due course. -- Dave Baker |
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