According to the so-called instructions I'm using to install a new 500W floodlight, it makes no mention of using a fused spur in the wiring schematic, but just simple indicates a 'switch`. So am I correct in thinking it is saying a standard 10A wall switch will be good enough, even though from past experience I would have stuck it on a switched fused spur.

Or could I have a non-switched fused connection plate hidden out of the way above a cupboard (if so what fuse rating) and simply have a nice 10A single rocker switch to essentially switch it at a convenient place? (switched fused spurs do not look the neatest of animals!)

I would do as you suggest in your second paragraph. I fit security lights all the time in my job as an alarm engineer and always fit either a switched spur or an unswitched spur with a separate light switch to override the light, as they have PIR sensors with them. Also you don't mention where you are getting the supply from, light's or ring circuit. Either way fit a fused spur with a 3 amp fuse and make sure it's earthed.

Cordless Crazy wrote:

According to the so-called instructions I'm using to install a new 500W
floodlight, it makes no mention of using a fused spur in the wiring
schematic, but just simple indicates a 'switch`. So am I correct in
thinking it is saying a standard 10A wall switch will be good enough,
even though from past experience I would have stuck it on a switched
fused spur.

Where are you taking the power from? If it is from an existing lighting
circuit that has enough spare capcity then there is no need for any form
of separate fusing. If you are feeding it from a circuit powering
sockets for example, then use a 3A fuse in the FCU (does not need to be
switched). A standard light switch will be more than capable of handling
the (~2A) load.

--
Cheers,

John.

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In article ,
Cordless Crazy writes:

According to the so-called instructions I'm using to install a new 500W

Ouch -- generally much to bright for an outside light.
Make sure no light goes up above horizontal, nor spills into
a neighbour's grounds without checking with them that it's
OK. Should be fitted at least 20' high, and angled downwards.

floodlight, it makes no mention of using a fused spur in the wiring
schematic, but just simple indicates a 'switch`. So am I correct in
thinking it is saying a standard 10A wall switch will be good enough,
even though from past experience I would have stuck it on a switched
fused spur.

Depends on where you are getting the supply from.

Or could I have a non-switched fused connection plate hidden out of the
way above a cupboard (if so what fuse rating) and simply have a nice 10A
single rocker switch to essentially switch it at a convenient place?
(switched fused spurs do not look the neatest of animals!)

--
Andrew Gabriel

(switched fused spurs do not look the neatest of animals!)

?

The switched fused spur I installed for exterior lighting came in a
package no larger than the non fused switch, or the non-switched but
fused box so I don't understand the above.

I was thinking along the lines of looking smarter/neater to have a plain light switch possibly in chrome as opposed to a thicker switched FSU with the fuse holder exposed