Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
![]() |
|
UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Guys
I have a pretty good idea of how to build a 24 inch diameter prize wheel for a party event but to save me cobbling together and some trial and error. Does anyone have any free links to sites where they have given you a cutting guide and or assembly instructions? Thanks Ged |
#2
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]() |
#3
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Mike Barnes wrote:
In uk.d-i-y, wrote: I have a pretty good idea of how to build a 24 inch diameter prize wheel for a party event but to save me cobbling together and some trial and error. Does anyone have any free links to sites where they have given you a cutting guide and or assembly instructions? No, but have you considered using a bicycle wheel? Light wheels might take a l-o-n-g time waiting for it to stop unless you gumm up the bearing somehow (without introducing bias in a particular direction). Need something with some inertia. -- Adrian C |
#4
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Wed, 18 Jan 2006 14:38:13 +0000, Adrian C wrote:
Light wheels might take a l-o-n-g time waiting for it to stop unless you gumm up the bearing somehow Magnet near the rim. Eddy currents in the moving aluminium will slow it down but don't attract it when stationary. Then a ticker on the spokes so that the wheel always clear stops _on_ a number, not bouncing around between them. Bicycle wheels are biased though (there's a bit of weight missing for the valve stem). You need to counterbalance this or it really will stop at the same place every time. |
#5
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
In article
Adrian C wrote: Mike Barnes wrote: In wrote: I have a pretty good idea of how to build a 24 inch diameter prize wheel for a party event but to save me cobbling together and some trial and error. Does anyone have any free links to sites where they have given you a cutting guide and or assembly instructions? No, but have you considered using a bicycle wheel? Not easy to fix the pegs, I'd have thought. Light wheels might take a l-o-n-g time waiting for it to stop unless you gumm up the bearing somehow (without introducing bias in a particular direction). Need something with some inertia. Unimpeded, a massive wheel will take longer to stop (assuming that all the mass is not near the hub), because it stores more kinetic energy at the same speed. However the rate at which it slows may be varied by adjusting the spring tension applied to the pointer. |
#6
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
In article
Andy Dingley wrote: On Wed, 18 Jan 2006 14:38:13 +0000, Adrian C wrote: Light wheels might take a l-o-n-g time waiting for it to stop unless you gumm up the bearing somehow Magnet near the rim. Eddy currents in the moving aluminium will slow it down but don't attract it when stationary. Then a ticker on the spokes so that the wheel always clear stops _on_ a number, not bouncing around between them. Bicycle wheels are biased though (there's a bit of weight missing for the valve stem). And possibly a bit added where it's welded/dowelled together. |
#7
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Adrian C wrote:
Light wheels might take a l-o-n-g time waiting for it to stop unless you gumm up the bearing somehow (without introducing bias in a particular direction). Need something with some inertia. Tradditional carny wheels have pegs or nails around the edge and a 'clicker' to slow down the wheel & make sure it stops dead on a space. Dave |
#8
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
david lang wrote:
Adrian C wrote: Light wheels might take a l-o-n-g time waiting for it to stop unless you gumm up the bearing somehow (without introducing bias in a particular direction). Need something with some inertia. Tradditional carny wheels have pegs or nails around the edge and a 'clicker' to slow down the wheel & make sure it stops dead on a space. Dave I completely forgot about the clicker.. :-) -- Adrian C |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Set up a 1/2 HP Baldor 7/6 inches grinder. | Metalworking | |||
How ToOperate a Tool Post Grinder | Metalworking | |||
Noob Lathe Q: Turning between centers | Metalworking | |||
Grinding wheels for HSS | Metalworking | |||
2nd day of Metal working class...grinding cutting tools | Metalworking |