Looking at this online guide

http://www.almostimpartialguide.co.u...base_units.htm

It says to use 25mm brackets.

Not sure on which ones though

This one
http://www.toolstation.com/images/li...bles/85681.jpg

Or this one
http://www.toolstation.com/images/li...bles/99820.jpg

If none, can someone advise. I am placing an order with toolstation. If
they don't have any of the type you recomend, please advise. Wickes had
none when I looked, where else.

It says to use 25mm brackets.

Not sure on which ones though

Buy whatever you fancy.

Christian.

thanks.

I know you were not doubt thinking.

"My god, surely people can't be this dumb"

but it's sometimes the small things that matter

take care

wrote:

I know you were not doubt thinking.

"My god, surely people can't be this dumb"

but it's sometimes the small things that matter


The only way to become good at something is by trying things out. IME
those who expect step-by-step instructions on how to perform every tiny
task rarely become proficient. Take some risks, use your judgment. Ask
yourself "why would this bracket be better than that bracket" - after
all, they are just pieces of steel, no specialist knowledge is required
to assess them.


--
Grunff

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
wrote:

Looking at this online guide

http://www.almostimpartialguide.co.u...base_units.htm

It says to use 25mm brackets.

Not sure on which ones though

This one
http://www.toolstation.com/images/li...bles/85681.jpg

Or this one
http://www.toolstation.com/images/li...bles/99820.jpg

If none, can someone advise. I am placing an order with toolstation.
If they don't have any of the type you recomend, please advise.
Wickes had none when I looked, where else.

I can't say without seeing the cabinets. The article says that there's a
50mm gap at the back for pipes etc. - but tells you to fix it to the wall
with 25mm brackets. Doesn't make much sense to me! But then, it refers to
the cabinet "gable". I haven't a clue what it's on about!
--
Cheers,
Set Square
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Set Square wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
wrote:

Looking at this online guide

http://www.almostimpartialguide.co.u...base_units.htm

It says to use 25mm brackets.

Not sure on which ones though

This one
http://www.toolstation.com/images/li...bles/85681.jpg

Or this one
http://www.toolstation.com/images/li...bles/99820.jpg

If none, can someone advise. I am placing an order with toolstation.
If they don't have any of the type you recomend, please advise.
Wickes had none when I looked, where else.

I can't say without seeing the cabinets. The article says that
there's a 50mm gap at the back for pipes etc. - but tells you to fix
it to the wall with 25mm brackets. Doesn't make much sense to me! But
then, it refers to the cabinet "gable". I haven't a clue what it's on
about!

Is there any need for brackets securing the carcasses to the wall? when you
secure the worktop to the units, alls thats needed then is to use brackets
to secure the worktop to the wall.
Job done.

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

I can't say without seeing the cabinets. The article says that there's a
50mm gap at the back for pipes etc. - but tells you to fix it to the wall
with 25mm brackets. Doesn't make much sense to me! But then, it refers to
the cabinet "gable". I haven't a clue what it's on about!

The sides of the cabinet touch the wall and can easily be attached with 25mm
brackets. The void is behind the back. If you want to run horizontal pipes,
you need to cut the cabinet walls.

Christian.

andysideas wrote:
Looking at this online guide

http://www.almostimpartialguide.co.u...base_units.htm

It says to use 25mm brackets.

Not sure on which ones though

This one
http://www.toolstation.com/images/li...bles/85681.jpg

Or this one
http://www.toolstation.com/images/li...bles/99820.jpg

I'd buy some of the second ones Make sure the plaster
on the wall is OK, and that the screws you use are long
enough. 2" by 8 should be OK for the wall fixing.

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
Set Square wrote:

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
wrote:


Looking at this online guide

http://www.almostimpartialguide.co.u...base_units.htm

It says to use 25mm brackets.

Not sure on which ones though

This one
http://www.toolstation.com/images/li...bles/85681.jpg

Or this one
http://www.toolstation.com/images/li...bles/99820.jpg

If none, can someone advise. I am placing an order with toolstation.
If they don't have any of the type you recomend, please advise.
Wickes had none when I looked, where else.

I can't say without seeing the cabinets. The article says that
there's a 50mm gap at the back for pipes etc. - but tells you to fix
it to the wall with 25mm brackets. Doesn't make much sense to me! But
then, it refers to the cabinet "gable". I haven't a clue what it's on
about!


Is there any need for brackets securing the carcasses to the wall? when you
secure the worktop to the units, alls thats needed then is to use brackets
to secure the worktop to the wall.

I recently had some worktops fitted by a pro kitchen fitter/joiner, and
he said he doesn't even bother with brackets at all. Reckons if the
unit is level and firm, you cut the worktop to size and screw it down to
(or rather up from underneath!) the unit, then apply silicone to the
back (with plenty going down the gap at the back). I was very dubious;
but to be perfectly honest, he's dead right - the units are now rock
solid.

Think I'd still some form of bracket myself, but I think the message
from the above is that they don't need to be massively strong ones;
anything will do the job.

David

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:

Is there any need for brackets securing the carcasses to the wall?
when you secure the worktop to the units, alls thats needed then is
to use brackets to secure the worktop to the wall.

Much easier to fix the brackets before the worktop is on because you can see
what you are doing. Saves grovelling about underneath to fix the brackets.
Fixing the worktop to the carcass is easy, screw up through the holes
provided.

Dave

wrote:

I'd use the second one;
http://www.toolstation.com/images/li...bles/99820.jpg

The slotted holes give you a bit of leeway on the masonry drilling, don't
suppose the price is much higher.

Dave

david lang wrote:
The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:

Is there any need for brackets securing the carcasses to the wall?
when you secure the worktop to the units, alls thats needed then is
to use brackets to secure the worktop to the wall.

Much easier to fix the brackets before the worktop is on because you can see
what you are doing. Saves grovelling about underneath to fix the brackets.
Fixing the worktop to the carcass is easy, screw up through the holes
provided.


Easier still not to fix the base units to the wall at all. Then you
have a chance of sliding them out if you ever need access.

MBQ

wrote:
david lang wrote:

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:


Is there any need for brackets securing the carcasses to the wall?
when you secure the worktop to the units, alls thats needed then is
to use brackets to secure the worktop to the wall.

Much easier to fix the brackets before the worktop is on because you can see
what you are doing. Saves grovelling about underneath to fix the brackets.
Fixing the worktop to the carcass is easy, screw up through the holes
provided.



Easier still not to fix the base units to the wall at all. Then you
have a chance of sliding them out if you ever need access.

MBQ


The brackets are useful for getting the base units level. You can pack
them out instead, but a screw is easier to adjust. I don't think they
serve any purpose once the worktop is on

Stuart Noble wrote:
wrote:
david lang wrote:

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:


Is there any need for brackets securing the carcasses to the wall?
when you secure the worktop to the units, alls thats needed then is
to use brackets to secure the worktop to the wall.

Much easier to fix the brackets before the worktop is on because you can see
what you are doing. Saves grovelling about underneath to fix the brackets.
Fixing the worktop to the carcass is easy, screw up through the holes
provided.



Easier still not to fix the base units to the wall at all. Then you
have a chance of sliding them out if you ever need access.

MBQ


The brackets are useful for getting the base units level. You can pack
them out instead, but a screw is easier to adjust. I don't think they

Do you mean a screw in a slotted hole? Sounds a bit dodgy for taking
the weight of a fully laden cupboard.

I always use adjustable legs for levelling.

MBQ

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
wrote:


The brackets are useful for getting the base units level. You can
pack them out instead, but a screw is easier to adjust. I don't
think they

Do you mean a screw in a slotted hole? Sounds a bit dodgy for taking
the weight of a fully laden cupboard.


I suspect he's talking about horizontal alignment, rather than vertical - in
other words, moving closer to or further from the wall - so that they all
line up along the front edge.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
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Set Square wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
wrote:


The brackets are useful for getting the base units level. You can
pack them out instead, but a screw is easier to adjust. I don't
think they

Do you mean a screw in a slotted hole? Sounds a bit dodgy for taking
the weight of a fully laden cupboard.



I suspect he's talking about horizontal alignment, rather than vertical - in
other words, moving closer to or further from the wall - so that they all
line up along the front edge.

Just another adjustment option. Those plastic legs are a fiddle and not
particularly stable when you're moving the units in and out. I get
everything level by other means and then tighten them at the finish.