Just wondering what the proper way to do this is.
We have a slot in cooker which is being replaced
by the built in oven and ceramic hob. It has a feed of 6mm cable
from a cooker switch at the moment.
The oven can be plugged in via a 13amp plug it seems
so do I fit a twin 13amp socket to the 6mm?

Thanks for any help

"Philip Thompson" wrote in message
...
Just wondering what the proper way to do this is.
We have a slot in cooker which is being replaced
by the built in oven and ceramic hob. It has a feed of 6mm cable
from a cooker switch at the moment.
The oven can be plugged in via a 13amp plug it seems
so do I fit a twin 13amp socket to the 6mm?

Thanks for any help

no

In article ,
"Philip Thompson" writes:
Just wondering what the proper way to do this is.
We have a slot in cooker which is being replaced
by the built in oven and ceramic hob. It has a feed of 6mm cable
from a cooker switch at the moment.
The oven can be plugged in via a 13amp plug it seems
so do I fit a twin 13amp socket to the 6mm?

I doubt the hob can run off a 13A socket.
Without the power ratings of both appliances
and the fuse/MCB rating of the circuit, no one
is going to be able to help much.

--
Andrew Gabriel

On Mon, 9 Jan 2006 15:55:18 -0000 someone who may be "Philip
Thompson" wrote this:-

We have a slot in cooker which is being replaced
by the built in oven and ceramic hob. It has a feed of 6mm cable
from a cooker switch at the moment.
The oven can be plugged in via a 13amp plug it seems
so do I fit a twin 13amp socket to the 6mm?

What is the maximum loading of the hob?

How far away from the oven and hob is the switch for the current
cooker?


--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

"Philip Thompson" wrote in message
...
Just wondering what the proper way to do this is.
We have a slot in cooker which is being replaced
by the built in oven and ceramic hob. It has a feed of 6mm cable
from a cooker switch at the moment.
The oven can be plugged in via a 13amp plug it seems
so do I fit a twin 13amp socket to the 6mm?

Thanks for any help

The hob (with 4 rings?) should be wired directly into the cooker switch.

The oven sounds like it can be plugged into a normal 13A socket, but getting
the cable out from behind it might be untidy. Ideally it should be wired
into it's own 13A switch box (one of those square boxes with a fuse cover
and switch on the front) with fixed wiring.

Wiring the oven into the 30+A supply of the hob, even if the total load can
be handled, sounds bodgy.

Philip Thompson wrote:
Just wondering what the proper way to do this is.
We have a slot in cooker which is being replaced
by the built in oven and ceramic hob. It has a feed of 6mm cable
from a cooker switch at the moment.
The oven can be plugged in via a 13amp plug it seems
so do I fit a twin 13amp socket to the 6mm?

Thanks for any help

The hob (with 4 rings?) should be wired directly into the cooker
switch.

The oven sounds like it can be plugged into a normal 13A socket, but
getting
the cable out from behind it might be untidy. Ideally it should be
wired
into it's own 13A switch box (one of those square boxes with a fuse
cover
and switch on the front) with fixed wiring.

Wiring the oven into the 30+A supply of the hob, even if the total load
can
be handled, sounds bodgy. If this is done, best to join the wires
inside the hob or with a junction box of the correct rating.

*Don't* plug the hob into a 13A socket even when wired into the cooker
switch; the loading will be well over 13A.

Thanks for the response guys and sorry that I didnt give
enough information.
The oven and hob will be approx 4feet from the oven switch
where the 6mm comes from.
We havn't got the hob yet so no definate answer to its power
consumption. There is no other supply very near to oven housing
so it would be nice to get both units on the 6mm tail.
All I know is, the power needs of the new units shouldn't be
much different from the old cooker with 4 hob rings.

On Mon, 9 Jan 2006 22:46:06 -0000 someone who may be "Philip
Thompson" wrote this:-

The oven and hob will be approx 4feet from the oven switch

Both need to be within 2m of the switch. If only one is then you
will need a second switch to control the other piece of equipment.

We havn't got the hob yet so no definate answer to its power
consumption.

In the absence of information I would guess 2kW per hotplate. Some
hotplates may be less, some more, it all depends on the design.
However, diversity does apply in large amounts to such things.

There is no other supply very near to oven housing
so it would be nice to get both units on the 6mm tail.

This is what I would do, assuming that the hob is suitable to be
protected by the consumer unit protective device, the hob terminals
are suitable and both items of equipment are within 2m of the
switch. However, all advice is worth what you pay for it. I have not
seen the equipment or the kitchen.

1) run a cable from the cooker outlet to the hob. The outlet should
be behind your existing cooker. If there is just a cable from the
switch then start there.

2) run a cable from the hob to a fused connection unit with a 13A
fuse. This will need to be mounted in a suitable place. It may be
that this is above the worktop, with a suitable cord outlet below
this.

3) run a suitable cord to the oven.

This scheme avoids trying to stuff three large cores into one
terminal, which doesn't work very well. Instead there is a maximum
of two cores in any terminal.

If the oven is more than 2m from the existing switch then a switch
on the fused connection unit is a good way of switching the oven
off, otherwise I wouldn't bother with a switch as it is one thing
more to keep clean and/or go wrong.

The cables will need to be suitably protected. This depends on the
kitchen layout.

If you are outwith Scotland then there are problems of bureaucracy
in a kitchen.

All I know is, the power needs of the new units shouldn't be
much different from the old cooker with 4 hob rings.

What is the rating of the existing protective device?



--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

................................What is the rating of the existing
protective device.....
David:
It's a 30 amp device in the CU .Both units will be less than 2 meters from
the switch
House is about 10 years old so electrics are in quite good order.
From the advice given, I will run the hob from the 6mm connector
and also from there will feed a 13A fused outlet for the oven.
Will use heat resistant cable for the tail to the oven.
Hope thats ok
Thanks alot for the help

Philip Thompson wrote:

................................What is the rating of the existing
protective device.....
David:
It's a 30 amp device in the CU .Both units will be less than 2 meters from
the switch
House is about 10 years old so electrics are in quite good order.
From the advice given, I will run the hob from the 6mm connector
and also from there will feed a 13A fused outlet for the oven.
Will use heat resistant cable for the tail to the oven.
Hope thats ok
Thanks alot for the help

That should be fine. If the oven is supposedly itable to be plugged
into a 13A socket, then it will almost certainly come with it's own
lead.